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Old 05-07-2014, 02:48 PM   #1
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Poor acceleration

I have a built 302 with trick flow heads,e-303,pulleys,gt40 intakes bigger throttle body and CAI and the acceleration seems like it should be a lot better. Anyone of anything. Holding it back? And there is a 255 LPH fuel pump
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:26 AM   #2
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If you have stock gears there is your issue. Also if you are running un-tuned there is your other issue.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:07 AM   #3
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Scott is right, you have been adding power but that is useless unless the rest of you driveline can put it to the ground. The differential is a good idea, I suggest 4.10, and the tune will be able to correct your speedo and tie all your mods together. If you plan on accelerating from a stop it would be worth your money to get some good tires in the rear, and maybe some upper and lower control arms to prevent tire hop
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:38 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by daninacan360 View Post
Scott is right, you have been adding power but that is useless unless the rest of you driveline can put it to the ground. The differential is a good idea, I suggest 4.10, and the tune will be able to correct your speedo and tie all your mods together. If you plan on accelerating from a stop it would be worth your money to get some good tires in the rear, and maybe some upper and lower control arms to prevent tire hop
4.10s will be too much for that combo properly tuned. Will run out of 4th gear before the 1/4 mark. And it isn't the diff, its the rear gears. Also, how would one change the speedo settings of a mechanical speedometer in the tune? That is all based on the drive/driven gears in the tailshaft, nothing to do with the computer in anything prior to 1994. Upper control arms should be left alone or new stock units, a good set of lower control arms is always good. The correct springs and a good set of tires obviously will help.

Biggest thing though would be a good dyno tune if not already done The A9L computer is a bit more "forgiving" as far as bolt ons go but once you start doing heads/cam it requires a tune. For some reason there is a persistent rumor that if one has a A9L one doesn't need a tune. This is not even close to the case.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:40 AM   #5
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Aftermarket UCA's really aren't necessary due to the binding nature they have. The stockers will flex enough, or if you do go with uppers make sure at a minimum you use spherical bushings and reinforce your torque boxes. Or swap in a three link! Lol
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:08 AM   #6
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4.10s will be too much for that combo properly tuned. Will run out of 4th gear before the 1/4 mark. And it isn't the diff, its the rear gears. Also, how would one change the speedo settings of a mechanical speedometer in the tune? That is all based on the drive/driven gears in the tailshaft, nothing to do with the computer in anything prior to 1994. Upper control arms should be left alone or new stock units, a good set of lower control arms is always good. The correct springs and a good set of tires obviously will help.

Biggest thing though would be a good dyno tune if not already done The A9L computer is a bit more "forgiving" as far as bolt ons go but once you start doing heads/cam it requires a tune. For some reason there is a persistent rumor that if one has a A9L one doesn't need a tune. This is not even close to the case.

My apologies, it didn't click that this was an 89 and it would have the mechanical speedometer. Most of my knowledge applies to the new edge 4.6's. What's the difference between rear gears and the final drive gears located in differential?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:16 AM   #7
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You said differential. The differential is the actual diff itself. The gears are independent of it as a part. So rear gears and final drive gears are the same thing but you don't want to call them the diff because you can have a stock diff, a locking diff a 31 spline, 33 spline, an open diff if its a V6 etc...

Its really just me being nitpicky, sorry to confuse.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:39 AM   #8
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I have a BAMA SCT tune and I'm about to install gears and just put a set of nitto NTO5's on the rear with Lakewood drag shocks awhile ago so hopefully these gears help out a lot
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:42 AM   #9
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Stock gears = SUCK
Secondly who set up the valvetrain?
Thirdly those alphabet cams come on strong after 3k so it might feel a little soft down low.
What's the rest of the combo look like?
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:58 AM   #10
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Stock crank and pistons, twisted wedge heads, e-303, 1.7 stamp steel magnum roller rockers,Hardened pushrods, GT40 upper and lower, BBK shorty headers, no cats, 24lbs injectors, under drive pullies, bigger radiator,CAI, mass air for 24's, 255lph fuel pump, stage 1clutch, 275/40/17 Nitto NTO5's on the back and as of today short throw shifter
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:47 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Shifty 5.0 View Post
I have a BAMA SCT tune and I'm about to install gears and just put a set of nitto NTO5's on the rear with Lakewood drag shocks awhile ago so hopefully these gears help out a lot
Lol well there is your issue, you have a HCI car with a Bama tune. Get that thing to a local dyno tuner and you should see a MASSIVE bump in HP/Torque and overall driveability.
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