Are the 1995 5.0's as slow as people say? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-15-2014, 09:05 PM   #1
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Are the 1995 5.0's as slow as people say?

I'm in the market coming up in about a month for a Gt. I have a v6 right now but I have read all over online that the 95 gt is slow. That the transmission is no good and It is running 8-10 second 0-60 times. I want to get a manual though because I just don't really like automatics. For the owners of the 94-95 gt, how fast can it be with a tune, 4.10 gears. and bolt ons? Thanks guys
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:22 PM   #2
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They are slow in stock form. A few bolt ons will wake it up. A good intake, heads, cams, and gear will step it up even more. It's a matter of how much you want to invest.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:26 PM   #3
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They are slow in stock form. A few bolt ons will wake it up. A good intake, heads, cams, and gear will step it up even more. It's a matter of how much you want to invest.

Sweet. I'm looking to spend my extra cash on mods so thanks man. 👍
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Old 05-16-2014, 07:44 AM   #4
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I'm in the market coming up in about a month for a Gt. I have a v6 right now but I have read all over online that the 95 gt is slow. That the transmission is no good and It is running 8-10 second 0-60 times. I want to get a manual though because I just don't really like automatics. For the owners of the 94-95 gt, how fast can it be with a tune, 4.10 gears. and bolt ons? Thanks guys
They have the same trans as the foxes do, just a different bellhousing and input shaft to make it sit back a little further for the SN95 body. Yes the T-5 has a glass jaw, yes if you are going much over bolt on power you need to upgrade it. The fact of the matter is that the T-5 is THE smoothest shifting transmission that has ever existed in a Mustang, period. At one point I got to the point in my Foxes and my Cobra where I might as well have had an auto in the car I could shift so fast. I have never been able to do that with a TKO or a T-45 or a 3650. You can also build the T-5 to take pretty much anything you can throw at it these days with the Astro gearsets and G-Force case. Its not exactly cheap, but its WAY cheaper than having a 3650 built or buying a Magnum.

The biggest issue with the 94/95 is the terribad computer. You can tune them or you can do the fox A9L swap. Regardless of which way you go you will have to tune the computer if you toss a cam in there. I swapped my Cobra to a A9L and I will vehemently argue with anyone who says it makes no difference. Anyone I know who has done it or anyone I have talked to on a forum who has done it all has the same opinion which is "night and day difference" which was also my experience. That said, once you get a good tuner in there the 94/95 computer can be tuned pretty well but in stock form... no they're godawful.

I would also STRONGLY suggest trying to get a 94/95 Cobra vs a GT. They are not as expensive as you think and its far far FAR better to start with a Cobra. You get the bigger brakes, you get a numbered car, a bunch of little odds/ends here and there that are a nice touch like the leather e-brake handle, lighter seat frames, lighter flywheel (NEVER get rid of a 94/95 Cobra flywheel, always get them resurfaced). But most importantly, you get a set of heads and an intake that can actually breathe. I would beat the living **** out of my buddy's bolt on 04 GT on a continual basis with my 95 Cobra. The GT40 pushrod pulls way harder than the PI does out of the hole and does not run out of air up top like the regular 5.0 HO does.

Honestly I am about this close to putting my 98GT up for sale the longer I have it the more I miss my pushrod. I have a modular because it does not require a sniffer test around here but if I get a nice stock 94/95 Cobra this is not a problem. IMHO, the 94/95 is the best of both worlds. You get the vastly superior SN95 body and you get the old pushrod drivetrain which is much better than the 96-04 GT stuff.

/dissertation
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Old 05-16-2014, 07:52 AM   #5
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They have the same trans as the foxes do, just a different bellhousing and input shaft to make it sit back a little further for the SN95 body. Yes the T-5 has a glass jaw, yes if you are going much over bolt on power you need to upgrade it. The fact of the matter is that the T-5 is THE smoothest shifting transmission that has ever existed in a Mustang, period. At one point I got to the point in my Foxes and my Cobra where I might as well have had an auto in the car I could shift so fast. I have never been able to do that with a TKO or a T-45 or a 3650. You can also build the T-5 to take pretty much anything you can throw at it these days with the Astro gearsets and G-Force case. Its not exactly cheap, but its WAY cheaper than having a 3650 built or buying a Magnum.

The biggest issue with the 94/95 is the terribad computer. You can tune them or you can do the fox A9L swap. Regardless of which way you go you will have to tune the computer if you toss a cam in there. I swapped my Cobra to a A9L and I will vehemently argue with anyone who says it makes no difference. Anyone I know who has done it or anyone I have talked to on a forum who has done it all has the same opinion which is "night and day difference". That said, once you get a good tuner in there the 94/95 computer can be tuned pretty well but in stock form... no they're godawful.

I would also STRONGLY suggest trying to get a 94/95 Cobra vs a GT. They are not as expensive as you think and its far far FAR better to start with a Cobra. You get the bigger brakes, you get a numbered car, a bunch of little odds/ends here and there that are a nice touch like the leather e-brake handle, lighter seat frames, lighter flywheel (NEVER get rid of a 94/95 Cobra flywheel, always get them resurfaced). But most importantly, you get a set of heads and an intake that can actually breathe. I would beat the living **** out of my buddy's bolt on 04 GT on a continual basis with my 95 Cobra. The GT40 pushrod pulls way harder than the PI does out of the hole and does not run out of air up top like the regular 5.0 HO does.

Honestly I am about this close to putting my 98GT up for sale the longer I have it the more I miss my pushrod. I have a modular because it does not require a sniffer test around here but if I get a nice stock 94/95 Cobra this is not a problem. IMHO, the 94/95 is the best of both worlds. You get the vastly superior SN95 body and you get the old pushrod drivetrain which is much better than the 96-04 GT stuff.

/dissertation


Awesome write up man. Thanks for all the info. I will definitely try get the 5.0 now. Hopefully a cobra if I can find one without the owner asking a butt ton. Lol. From the write up, It seems like their a great platform to build off of.

Awesome write up man
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Old 05-16-2014, 07:56 AM   #6
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They are great for a street strip car. If I was going to build something to be a 1/4 Monster it would be a notch fox all the way without even having to think twice. But for even basic creature comforts and a functional interior the 94/95 all the way. Build quality is just that much better. Actually the 94-04 interiors are some of the most durable and problem free interiors I've ever encountered. My interior is mostly swapped from a 200k mile V6 and it looks nearly new.

And yeah, you can get a nice Cobra for a good price if you look. I've seen them go in the $6 -$8k range with decent miles but those are drivers. Ppl who have clean sub 40k garaged ones are going to be asking $10-$12k and rightly so.

I still have my eye on a 20k mile white one in Virginia that the guy was asking $13k for but took off the market because nobody was biting. I paid $12k for my 40k garage queen in 2003 so that price is MORE than fair.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:01 AM   #7
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They are great for a street strip car. If I was going to build something to be a 1/4 Monster it would be a notch fox all the way without even having to think twice. But for even basic creature comforts and a functional interior the 94/95 all the way. Build quality is just that much better. Actually the 94-04 interiors are some of the most durable and problem free interiors I've ever encountered. My interior is mostly swapped from a 200k mile V6 and it looks nearly new.

And yeah, you can get a nice Cobra for a good price if you look. I've seen them go in the $6 -$8k range with decent miles but those are drivers. Ppl who have clean sub 40k garaged ones are going to be asking $10-$12k and rightly so.

I still have my eye on a 20k mile white one in Virginia that the guy was asking $13k for but took off the market because nobody was biting. I paid $12k for my 40k garage queen in 2003 so that price is MORE than fair.

Would you prefer 4.10 gears in it or will it max out to fast. Or should I put 3.73 in when I get one?
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:24 AM   #8
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All depends on what you want to do and whether you get a Cobra or a GT.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:28 AM   #9
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All depends on what you want to do and whether you get a Cobra or a GT.

All the drag strips around here are 1/4 mile so I really only need it 0-100 fast but it will be a daily driver to. I will probably have to get a gt because I have seen 1 cobra so far on criagslist and he is wanting $8,000 for It and I'm in the 3,500-6,000 budget.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:32 AM   #10
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Yeah that is GT range. Eh, for a DD you have to shift a LOT with even a 3.73 gear so it all depends on what you want to do as far as that goes. Generally people with sticks and pushrods do 3.73s although for my Cobra I could have been fine with 3.55s or lower personally.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:50 AM   #11
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Yeah that is GT range. Eh, for a DD you have to shift a LOT with even a 3.73 gear so it all depends on what you want to do as far as that goes. Generally people with sticks and pushrods do 3.73s although for my Cobra I could have been fine with 3.55s or lower personally.

Ok sweet thanks. I probably will just get the 3.73's.
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:00 AM   #12
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They can still pull a low 15. If you're willing to drop 3-5k in them, you will absolutely love it
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:55 AM   #13
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I put 3.73's in my 94 gt automatic. It is a noticible diffrence and I love my 94. DONT BUY AN AUTOMATIC. The AODE's they come with suck. I had to get mine rebuilt and it's indestructible now but it's still missing the man pedal lol. Also there's a reason why Ford kept the I interior the same for 10 years, it's nice to look at and very functional. Definitely get a cobra.

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Old 05-16-2014, 11:48 AM   #14
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Honestly I was always a big fan of the old 5.0s they look amazing exterior wise, but there interior is god awful. Never really knew how bad it was till I got my car and just felt how more modern my car felt. The exterior of my car has really grown on me. Ppl are always very shocked when I tell them my car is a 94. I know there not the fastest but with a little work I got mine going pretty good.
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:52 AM   #15
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Amen brother I got a 94 ragtop 5.0 H.O t-5 and I love it can't wait to throw mods at it.Amen

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Old 05-17-2014, 09:50 AM   #16
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Honestly I was always a big fan of the old 5.0s they look amazing exterior wise, but there interior is god awful. Never really knew how bad it was till I got my car and just felt how more modern my car felt. The exterior of my car has really grown on me. Ppl are always very shocked when I tell them my car is a 94. I know there not the fastest but with a little work I got mine going pretty good.
Yeah I started in the foxes. Unless I was building 1/4 mile only car I will not have a fox again. Although I really really do want to get back into a 94/95 the longer I have my 2V. It just has no balls down low... I would require a Cobra though, it really is THAT much better and much much cheaper in the end since you really just need a $1500 used S trim and a fuel system to match and there is your 450 to the wheels.

But the build quality and interior of the SN95 is just so much better not to mention its not really that difficult to mitigate the compatibility problems in a 94/95 car vs a 87-93. Doing a fox TB conversion is easy and if you want it to be identical (for all intents and purposes) to a fox setup just pull the accessories/brackets and install fox accessories/brackets although you really don't need to. Also the SN95 distributor setup is better and you can even swap to an Explorer DIS if you really wanted to. Also you get the electric fan stock and if you get a Cobra you get good heads/intake, 1.7 rockers, big brakes, 24lb injectors and a ton of little stuff.

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Amen brother I got a 94 ragtop 5.0 H.O t-5 and I love it can't wait to throw mods at it.Amen

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-A9L swap (re-pin, fox computer, fan controller, BAP, ignition box)
-Gears
-Shifter
-CAI
-Pullies
-FULL exhaust
-Suspension

There is your 13 second car with a ton of potential to grow and this thing called torque that the modular lacks. Down the road a NA 408 stroker is a drop in and can do 500+ to the wheels on pump gas without even breaking a sweat.

All that said... and I'm putting on my flame suit... you can get a modded F body in really good shape for not much more than a nice low mileage SN95 and the starting platform you get there is a thousand fold higher than anything short of a Terminator.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:56 AM   #17
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Another little plus with the cobra is the oils cooler it comes with. Not sure if it makes a difference but just another add on for the cobra from factory. My buddy right now is building his 95 cobra and this is going to be awesome with his procharger and head work and Anderson cam.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:33 AM   #18
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I deleted that oil cooler. Lets you run the bigger FL1A filter and I didn't see any engine temp increase after deleting it. I still have it in a box in the garage actually.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:40 AM   #19
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^^ well then, I had a feeling that weren't the most important add on.
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Old 05-17-2014, 06:13 PM   #20
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Building my 94GT now. My opinion is they are pretty slow at take off. Nothing 3:73's wont fix.
I've had it going on 3 years now & no major problems so I decide I would build a motor for it. I have pics of a lot of the New parts I'm using posted in my pics (5.0 Build). Thing is...Very little will be used off my 94 Motor. I bought a used 88 Block because I wanted the forged Pistons & Rods for Supercharging it later. The block has a couple broken bolts in it I can't get out after a week of trying so I bought another bare bones 95 Block. Using the 88 Crank, Rods & Pistons in the 95 Block. I also bought a set of GT40 (3-Bar) Heads & Intake off a 96 Explorer. Was only $90 for the Heads & Intake at the Boneyard. The Heads I Cleaned up, 3 Angle Valve Job, Re-Sized Valve Guide Bosses to fit Viton Seals, New Dual Coil Valve Springs w/ Damper, Locks & Retainers. 1:6 Pedestal Mount Roller Rockers w/ New Channel Guides. Ford Racing / Mustang Finned Valve Covers.
Also using a Ford Racing E303 Cam w/ New Roller Lifters. All New Bearings, Seals, Gaskets & Bolts for the entire motor. New Flywheel, Starter, 4-G / 200 AMP Alternator, P.S. Pump, Water Pump, Oil Pump & Chrome Oil Pan, Harmonic Balancer & Underdrive Pulleys, 80mm MAF for 24-lb. injectors, 24-lb Ford Racing Injectors, BBK 65mm T-Body, Elbow adapter for the 94-95 models, & CAI. Kupp Racing Stage 3 Clutch, Pacesetter Equal Length Headers, All New 2.5" Exhaust w/ Hi-Flow Cats (only used 2...not 4), X-Pipe & Glass Packs.
Never built a motor b4 so I sure hope I'm doing it right. Got a little over $3500 in it now including the cost of the Cherry picker, Stand, Specialty Tools, Paint, etc...
I just kept buying parts for the last 6 months til I got almost everything. Then I bought a block to put it all in.
Why not build my current motor... I want to drive my car while building a motor. Now I can get as crazy as I want with the current motor & could care less if it blows...lol. A chance to see what it will really do...but I'll wait til I'm almost done building before I do that.
Any ways, I'm wondering what I should or must do to the Tranny. Never thought about the Tranny til Scotty mentioned it. I'm also wondering if I should switch to a A9L Computer.
Anyways, I'm not sure what these mods will do. I'm told it should give me 300-350H.P. & do the 1/4 in the mid 10's to low 11's. Only one way to find out. Build It & See !!!
Anyway, Just giving you some ideas. This is just a Budget Build but should do the trick for me.
Besides, my son is 14 now & this car will be painted & given to him as a 1st car on his 16th Birthday. Wish my parents gave me a car like that for a first car...lol.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:37 PM   #21
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300hp mid 10s you better have stage 1000000 weight reduction kit. Because 300 horse isn't getting you into 10s
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:53 PM   #22
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300rwhp is good for high 11s with a really good driver, good suspension setup and some weight reduction. Most ppl with 300 to the wheels do low 12s with a decent setup.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:59 AM   #23
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Which would be a full on race car. I don't see 10s happening
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:19 PM   #24
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Nah, 300rwhp and low 12s is not a full on race car. Its some good suspension, good tires someone who can shift really well or has a stalled/shifted auto and a little weight reduction.
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:32 PM   #25
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I honestly don't know what the car will do or how much H.P. I'll get with this build. It's my 1st time trying to build a motor & that's the best part of it for me. I just hope it gives it some balls!!! I'm not a track person...Just like to get out on winding desert mountain roads & kick it in the azz. I'm pretty sure it should be good for having that kind of fun.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:47 PM   #26
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I honestly felt like my 95gt had a little more torque and sounded better then my 99 but I like them both and I miss the 95 sometimes

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Old 04-11-2016, 09:02 PM   #27
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The pushrods do have a little more bottom end. My 5.0 Cobra had way more bottom end than any NA 4.6L I have driven. But up top... Modulars pull like freight trains if they are setup right.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:18 PM   #28
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The pushrods do have a little more bottom end. My 5.0 Cobra had way more bottom end than any NA 4.6L I have driven. But up top... Modulars pull like freight trains if they are setup right.
What do you think of this 95 cobra, is that a good price?

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Old 04-11-2016, 09:32 PM   #29
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I got a 95 GT and I'll take the push rod 5.0L over a 4.6L any day. I had a built 302 in a 86 GT with warmed over E7 heads e303 cam MSD ignition stealth weiland intake holley 650 4 barrel BBK shortys off road H pipe Flowmaster 40's Stage 3 RAM clutch aluminum flywheel and driveshaft and 3.73 gears and commuted that car as a DD 20 miles one way to work for months. Never a issue. But my buddy's car would break every other week from a 10 mile one way. I'm sourcing GT40 heads intake and a e303 for the 95 now. If I don't get stupid and build a fuel injected 351 instead.

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Old 04-11-2016, 10:58 PM   #30
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What do you think of this 95 cobra, is that a good price?

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/5524895326.html

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Its priced fair but its beat and is not "monster power".

I've seen them go for like $8k with 20k miles recently. I'd recommend holding out for a low mileage survivor at $10k or less.

But... I won't ever go back to a pushrod most likely. At least not a Ford.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:06 AM   #31
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Didn't Ford program the 94-95 ecm's to pull a few degrees of timing out during shifts to help cut down on transmission damage?? Wasnt this one of the reasons why the 94-95's were supposedly slower than the Foxbodys,plus they had 10 less HP too?? I was thinking this was one reason why guys would switch from the 94-95 ecm's to the 87-93 ecm's.I tried searching for the article that explained this info,but I can't locate it right now.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:08 AM   #32
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Yes they did. But any performance chip for the ECM takes care of that.

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Old 04-12-2016, 09:18 AM   #33
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Its called "tip in ******" and yes, unless you were at full WOT the computer pulled timing.


The 87-93 computers also have much more aggressive settings than the 94/95 computers. Like I said, night and day difference between the 2 and this is from likely the only person on this board who has ever personally done it. No other changes besides the swap and advancing the timing to 14 degrees.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:23 AM   #34
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Its called "tip in ******" and yes, unless you were at full WOT the computer pulled timing.


The 87-93 computers also have much more aggressive settings than the 94/95 computers. Like I said, night and day difference between the 2 and this is from likely the only person on this board who has ever personally done it. No other changes besides the swap and advancing the timing to 14 degrees.
Correct. It's more of a way for you to "keep" from blowing the transmission to pieces. But like I said, a chip from JET SCT or the Moates QH or Tweecer RT can remedy that with a tune. Or the A9L swap.

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Old 04-12-2016, 09:37 AM   #35
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Eh... if you blow the T-5 to pieces at bolt on power level then you need to learn to stop missing 3rd gear. I beat the living **** out of that T5 in my Cobra and never ever had an issue.
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