GT40 Heads Install ???'s - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-25-2014, 02:11 PM   #1
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GT40 Heads Install ???'s

Ok Stangsters,
I have a 94 Mustang GT / 5.0 I'm trying to put GT40 Heads on off of a 96 Explorer. I have way too much invested in these heads to turn back now.
I bought New 1.6 Roller Rockers, Dual Coil Valve Springs w/ Damper, Locks, Retainers, Viton Seals & Rocker Channel Guides for these Heads already.
Took the Heads to the Engine Builders & they are Currently Re-Sizing the Guide Bosses to fit the Viton Seals, Grinding the Step around the Bosses Flat for the Springs,
Milling the Heads & Doing a Valve Job on them & the Assembly of the Heads.
Here's my New Problem I didn't know about. E7 Heads have Air Intake Ports on the Backside of the Heads. GT40 Heads do not. There are Smog Pump Lines that run to these 2 ports on the E7 Heads.
How do I make these Heads work??? I know I can Delete the Smog Pump.....but I live where emissions is Required so I think I have to leave the Smog stuff on to pass.
ANY IDEAS ON WHAT TO DO ??? Help...Help...Help...Please.
Sure wish I could find a nice 66 Ranchero Body to drop the motor in or something Cool 1966 or Older so I don't need Emissions.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:45 PM   #2
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Air injection ports do nothing for the actual sniffer. Unless you run into a tech that specifically knows 94/95 cars and visually sees the rear stuff is gone you will be fine. Run the smog pump directly to the cats and the EGR is external so that doesn't matter. You could even delete the smog pump honestly if you don't have to worry about a visual inspection and just swap in the stock pipe for emissions day.

Also, doing anything more to GT40 heads than a cleanup/valve job and new springs/locks/retainers is a waste of money. IMHO, the cutoff is $500. If you spend more than that you wasted your $$$. Don't get me wrong, the GT40 heads are great heads for what was available from Ford at the time, but really the only way they are worth the money/time is if you get them for a steal or you get a really good deal on a complete 5.0 Exploder motor OR you pay the premium to start out with a Cobra which is what I will do if I ever get another pushrod. And what I did in the past... I miss it lol.
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:34 PM   #3
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I only paid $45 for the set of Heads on 1/2 Price day at the boneyard. So $45 = Heads, Roller Rockers = $180, Locks, Retainers, Valve Seals = $85, Channel Guides & Shims = $40, Springs = $80 ... This is approximately what I paid. I was good till it took $200 in machine work that I didn't know I had to have till I was already in too deep to stop. I guess I could have just bought new / different springs to avoid the cost of the machine work on the Bosses. But then again...I want it to be able to handle a Super Charger next year. That's why I used the Forged Pistons & Rods & I also used the Crank out of an 88 Mustang Block but it's all going in a 95 Block. Heads & Intake from a 96 Explorer / GT40. Everything else is for a 94-95 Mustang.
Last time I took emissions they walked around my car looking under it with a mirror. Can't remember if they popped the hood. Think I'm going to wait till Sept. after I go through emissions to install the new motor. That way I'll have 2 years to work out any kinks.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:22 PM   #4
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Forging the your stock block motor does nothing to make it more able to handle a supercharger. The stock rotating assembly will hold together far longer than the stock block will. You are limited at around 450-500hp whether on stock or forged internals because that is the range the stock 95 block you are using lets go.

Could have also used a $100 set of TFS springs to be more than fine for what you are doing. And yes I know the 92.5-up 5.0s had hyper pistons. Hyper pistons are fine as long as your tune is good.
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Old 05-28-2014, 03:08 PM   #5
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Going by everything I read...& it all boiled down to Forged pistons & Rods are better if you plan to Super Charge or Turbo a car as the Hyper Pistons are more brittle & can't handle as much abuse. Maybe it only makes a difference after so much H.P. ...Don't really know. But since I got
the block with all the internals for $100...why not use them...right ?
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:27 PM   #6
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Block and forged internals for $100? You sure they aren't stock rods and 87-92 stock forged pistons? Regardless, the block is the weak spot in the pushrod. Forged pistons will resist detonation better than hypers yes, but as long as your tuner doesn't suck you should not have that issue. You can have the strongest rotating assembly in the world in a stock block vs an untouched shortblock and they'll both let go at the same power level when the block splits right down the middle.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:07 PM   #7
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What kinda bottom end is this?

The stock bottom end is pretty good and handles boost well. Like Scotty said the block ends up being the weak point.

The HO motor came with forged pistons and forged rods from factory till 92 but they are by no means top shelf quality either.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:28 PM   #8
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The OEM forged ones are decent. One other thing ppl don't seem to realize is that big $$$ forged assembly that they put into a stock block is very often ruined if they do crack the block. And then you have the ppl trying to find workarounds with threaded freeze plugs and girdles and whatever the hell else. All a girdle will do for a stock block is hold it together in a neat little pile when it splits. Makes for an easy cleanup.

I still want to see what sort of forged assembly the OP got for $100...
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:18 AM   #9
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It's just the stock TRW Forged Pistons & Rods from the 88 Mustang Block. Nothing Fancy....Just 1-Step Better than Hyper Pistons. Keep in mind this is suppose to be a Budget Build for around $3K. I wasn't about to invest too much on my 1st build & mess everything up by doing something wrong. Rather lose 3K than 7 or 8 any day. Hopefully all goes well so I'll be more apt to build something better next time.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:05 AM   #10
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Well if you are including the cost of the supercharger for $3k then no way in hell. If you are talking just the motor then yeah but a block that old... if the bores don't check then you are going to have to buy new pistons anyway. I'd also have the crank turned too.

I once did a crazy budget HCI for around $3k myself with edelbrocks/ported cobra/comp cam and EVERYTHING used pretty much except for pushrods and gaskets and all the stuff you can't do used. That is not including the price of the tune. Tune bumped it up to the $3800 range and the car made 301/325. If I had just bought a supercharger (ESPECIALLY because I had a 95 Cobra) I would have spent less and made over 100 more hp to the wheels.

I know you are already into it some with the heads and all but I always recommend to people with 5.0 pushrods to just supercharge. If the motor is blown, go find an explorer motor and supercharge that. An explorer engine with a stock cam swapped in and a TFS valve spring kit and a supercharger is a 425-450hp platform easy. Also real easy to pull the heads, get a valve job and install ARP studs while its out on the engine stand. Just my $.02
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:14 PM   #11
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If I knew then, what I know now...I'd of done it different too. But you're talking to someone with pretty much no experience at this. I'm 53 & just got a wild hair to try to put together a decent motor. Never liked to work on cars & honestly,....I still don't. But I sure like to drive a fast one. So I figured I better learn enough to get me by. I figured I had to know how an engine worked so I bought one & tore it apart completely. Now I know exactly what the inside of a motor looks like & all the parts which is a huge step from not knowing anything. Trying to fit parts from different vehicles together has been quite the learning experience. The most important thing I learned is that the hidden cost of things ( machine work, bolts, adapters,etc.) ends up costing you as much or more than the parts their selves.
Yeah, it was $3K on the motor only with plans to buy a super charger in the next year.
I did finally get done putting the New Shocks, Slotted & Drilled Rotors & Pads on the rear end today. Painted the Calipers & Wheel wells so it all looks nice in there.
Probably going to put my Rocker Stripes on & Start Blacking out my tail lights this weekend & do the front end in about a week. I have all New Bushings, Tie Rods, Ball Joints, Wheel Bearing Hubs, Struts, Rotors & Pads for the front so I'm guessing working on it in between the heat will take at least a week. Especially those control arm bushings. they were hell to do on my 04. But now I know to air hammer them out & press them in with a ball joint press. 4-5 hour job after they're out ... but sure made the other car handle nice after changing all the bushings. Hmmmm...I wonder if they'll press out too.
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