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Old 06-12-2014, 10:29 AM   #1
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Scored a free explorer intake!!

I got a free Ford explorer intake, I will post pics of it in a little while. It's really sludged up but I can cleen it up. It has yellow injectors on it. Also can I port and it polish it myself? Now I just need some gt40 heads.
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:29 PM   #2
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You can port/polish it yourself if you know how. The lower can be taken out to around 240-250cfm, the upper already flows 250 cfm so its useless to port the upper.

Good score btw, its the best street intake available for a 302 when its ported. And being a 94, you don't have to worry whether it is a Gen1 or Gen2 Exploder.

And if you want to get it ported by someone else, get ahold of Tom Moss at http://www.tmossporting.0catch.com/ and have him do it. He's the go to guy for porting these things.

Yes I know his website looks circa 1998, it may not have been updated since then besides contact info lol. He can also be found on the corral under username tmoss.
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:06 PM   #3
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You can port/polish it yourself if you know how. The lower can be taken out to around 240-250cfm, the upper already flows 250 cfm so its useless to port the upper.

Good score btw, its the best street intake available for a 302 when its ported. And being a 94, you don't have to worry whether it is a Gen1 or Gen2 Exploder.

And if you want to get it ported by someone else, get ahold of Tom Moss at http://www.tmossporting.0catch.com/ and have him do it. He's the go to guy for porting these things.

Yes I know his website looks circa 1998, it may not have been updated since then besides contact info lol. He can also be found on the corral under username tmoss.
not to shure yet, now I just need cylinder heads. gonna look around the shop tomorrow and see if he will let me have them to, or buy them via crigslist. heres some pics. and does anyone know what size injectors these are? did I mention the sludge lol, I may need to get this thing hot tanked lol.
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:45 PM   #4
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Great score and Tmoss is the man and worth getting the lower done by him.


Also orange injectors =19 lb'ers.
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:55 PM   #5
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That's a first gen intake which is the more desirable one overall because the fox guys prefer the internal egr provisions and the boss on #5 but you don't need either of those with a 94. And yeah 19s are stock on those trucks like they are on the Mustangs minus the Cobras.

Maybe he'll let you have the GT40s from that motor too lol. If they are the heads that came off the same motor they SHOULD be the regular GT40s which are the better ones to have as well. I would not pay more than $150 for a set of GT40s though because they are going to need new springs/locks/retainers and a valve job and maybe new valves depending on the condition. That all plus a cleaning/going over can push the cost up in the $600-$700 range and at that point you can start finding good sets of used aluminum heads.
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:48 PM   #6
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Yea, the heads had 4 bars on them I'm shure of that. I also contacted tmoss and he said it's useless to port out this intake because it flows more than gt40 heads need, like stock it can flow 205 cfm and the heads can only flow 190cfm.

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Old 06-12-2014, 04:51 PM   #7
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Yeah I was not sure what heads you were planning on. And 4 bars are P heads which is odd because that intake usually comes with 3 bar heads but they probably mixed and matched some during the changeover in 1997.

P heads will work, you will just have some potential clearance issues with the spark plugs depending on which headers you use. And tmoss is right, they flow around 200cfm stock.

I'd get those heads cleaned up, clean up the intake and be on the lookout for a $100 used cam and throw it all together with your bolt ons and take it to a tuner. GT40 combo with a b cam is VERY common and puts down around 275 to the wheels with a good tune and the b cams are like $50-$100 all day.
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:55 PM   #8
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If I invest in better heads like the twisted wedges then I would port match the intake to the heads. I'm definitely going to polish the lower intake myself, and port match the upper to the lower. And I would definitely prefer the non p heads.

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Old 06-12-2014, 04:58 PM   #9
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I did a bit of editing to my post, look for a cheap cam too to put in while you are at it since you should get the 94/95 computer tuned anyway even if its just bolt ons. B cam is a well known performer with the GT40s and so are the Crane 2030/2031 cams or the TFS1.
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:01 PM   #10
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Keep in mind I have an automatic so I want some more low end grunt then it has now, but want it to pull all the way up to 6 grand because it can hammer shift it at the strip. Also I want to put 24 pound injectors, upgrade the fuel pump and a bigger tb and headers. Or is all that unnecessary?

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Old 06-12-2014, 05:10 PM   #11
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For the GT40s the stock fuel pump should be ok but upgrade it if you want. I forget what GTs get but I know my Cobra came stock with a 110lph. I never upgraded from the 60mm TB when I had my Cobra and I know I didn't need to and as far as headers I would definitely recommend longtubes since they are so easy to do in a 94/95 5.0 car.

You won't have any issue with low end grunt with the GT40 pushrod, I mean as much grunt as a stockish 302 can have.

Also while everything is down, now might be the time to do a good stall converter if you don't have one already.
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:13 PM   #12
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For the GT40s the stock fuel pump should be ok but upgrade it if you want. I forget what GTs get but I know my Cobra came stock with a 110lph. I never upgraded from the 60mm TB when I had my Cobra and I know I didn't need to and as far as headers I would definitely recommend longtubes since they are so easy to do in a 94/95 5.0 car.

You won't have any issue with low end grunt with the GT40 pushrod, I mean as much grunt as a stockish 302 can have.

Also while everything is down, now might be the time to do a good stall converter if you don't have one already.
I have a 2300 stall from b&m and love it. Also my fuel pump is OLD so I'm going to change that. I guess I will keep the tb and fuel rails. but should I get bigger injectors or is it not necessary

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Old 06-12-2014, 05:18 PM   #13
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You should be ok with the 19s but they'll be around 90% duty cycle so 24s do a little better. Or just go find a set of pink 21s that got pulled out of any 02-04 PI car for cheap.

Stock rails on the 94/95 will support more power than the block can take so leave those. I WOULD recommend going to braided fuel lines though, the rubber ones are a known fire hazard. Russell makes the right fittings to install aftermarket lines to the stock rails.
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #14
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You could also score some cheap 24's as they are out there in abundance.

There are a couple of write ups out there in the interwebz on porting the lower so worth a shot.

Do you have a shift kit?

If you do score those P heads, a good investment are them plug wire sleeves

---------- Post added at 07:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 PM ----------

You could also score some cheap 24's as they are out there in abundance.

There are a couple of write ups out there in the interwebz on porting the lower so worth a shot.

Do you have a shift kit?

If you do score those P heads, a good investment are them plug wire sleeves
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:30 PM   #15
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If you go with GT40 Heads don't make the same mistake I did. I bought Dual Valve Springs with Dampers. Use a Good Single Spring (Comp Cams are good). If you use Dual Springs you'll have to have the Guide Bosses Re-Sized to fit Viton Seals. You'll also have to have the step around the bosses ground all the way down so the Springs will work. To have that done along with a Valve job was $200 in machining. They also assembled the Heads. I used 1.6 Roller Rockers with New Channel Guides & the Springs & Seals I mentioned. The whole bottom end is re-built also with Forged Pistons & Rods & a Ford Racing E303 Cam. All together it's costing me around $700 in machine work & engine assembly at a Performance Engine Builders.
I also have about $1500 - $2000 invested in all the parts.
Just a little insight on what you're getting into.
Also...GT40P Heads require special Headers. I used 3-Bar GT40's for that reason.
I got my heads at the Boneyard. They were $47 each...but I went on 1/2 price day & got both of them for just $47. Might want to check your local yards out.
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:48 PM   #16
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Yea, I will take what ever I can get, I plan to do single springs with the stock valves and scorpion roller rockers. Also I will try and get a used b303 and the pink injectors like scotty mentioned. I'm going to pull the whole motor because both front and rear main seals are leaking badly and also put all new bearings even though my car only has 63,000 miles on it. Also I have a fully built AODE that can handle more than my block can ever handle. It has a Fairbanks shift kit with red eagle police interceptor clutches and steels, b&m flex plate, carbon fiber bands, b&m tranny cooler and b&m ratchet hammer shifter. She will cherp first and second when she's up to operating temps.

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Old 06-12-2014, 07:18 PM   #17
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You can use a few different brand of simple drop in springs.

Here is a good read for you.......

Five.Oh Info : The Foxbody Mustang Specifications Site : Engine, Transmission, Brakes, Suspension & more!
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:34 PM   #18
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The trick flow spring kit is like $250 and comes with everything needed. Most ppl run the TFS.
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Old 06-12-2014, 08:45 PM   #19
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The trick flow spring kit is like $250 and comes with everything needed. Most ppl run the TFS.
I would like to do this on the cheap so what ever you think I should get, I will get. I just cleaned all the old gasket off the mainifold and it is SLUDGED I'm defiantly going to get it hot tanked, but since I'm pulling my whole motor I'll get the block cleaned up to and re decked if it needs it. the mani fold has a big windage tray thing on the bottom of it and it's huge, does it come off?
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:18 PM   #20
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IIRC it is not removable but its been awhile. I never even bothered to try to take it off.
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Old 06-13-2014, 08:26 AM   #21
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What years explorer intake manifolds fit on the 94/95 gt? Id like to try and find one myself
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Old 06-13-2014, 08:53 AM   #22
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You can use a few different brand of simple drop in springs.

Here is a good read for you.......

Five.Oh Info : The Foxbody Mustang Specifications Site : Engine, Transmission, Brakes, Suspension & more!
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:13 AM   #23
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What years explorer intake manifolds fit on the 94/95 gt? Id like to try and find one myself
Any 96-00 5.0 Explorer. The engines have weak springs and a truck cam but swap those out and you have a legit 5.0 Cobra engine.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #24
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Any 96-00 5.0 Explorer. The engines have weak springs and a truck cam but swap those out and you have a legit 5.0 Cobra engine.
why did I think cobras had 351's?
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:19 AM   #25
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The 95R had a 351... with the same top end as the 302 Cobra... 93-95 Cobras had the GT40 302s. 96-up got the 4V.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:38 AM   #26
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Yea, I think my next car will be a 94 to 98 cobra. In my opinion they are the nicest looking mustangs with the round fogs, and the cobra spoiler. What I would do for a 95 cobra R though.

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Old 06-13-2014, 10:44 AM   #27
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Holy s**t there expensive!! Well this one only has like 400 miles on it.
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Old 06-13-2014, 12:09 PM   #28
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Yea, I think my next car will be a 94 to 98 cobra. In my opinion they are the nicest looking mustangs with the round fogs, and the cobra spoiler. What I would do for a 95 cobra R though.

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Only 94/95 cars had a specific spoiler. The 96-98 shared it with the GT. This is THE easiest way to spot a Fobra 94/95 car. The 94/95 specific spoiler is called the "Crabclaw" wing and it has an integrated LED 3rd brakelight while the decklid is shaved of the 3rd light that is normally there. The decklid is also 94/95 Cobra specific and will cause issues with all aftermarket wings since the bolt pattern for the crabclaw is different. Although honestly the crabclaw is one of those rare things that makes the car special so I personally would never remove it.
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Old 06-14-2014, 04:52 PM   #29
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Only 94/95 cars had a specific spoiler. The 96-98 shared it with the GT. This is THE easiest way to spot a Fobra 94/95 car. The 94/95 specific spoiler is called the "Crabclaw" wing and it has an integrated LED 3rd brakelight while the decklid is shaved of the 3rd light that is normally there. The decklid is also 94/95 Cobra specific and will cause issues with all aftermarket wings since the bolt pattern for the crabclaw is different. Although honestly the crabclaw is one of those rare things that makes the car special so I personally would never remove it.
Yea, I also really like the mach 1's. but there way to expensive.

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Old 06-14-2014, 05:20 PM   #30
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You can often get a decent Mach for $10-$12k if you look and are patient. You often have to wait out a seller who sees KBB on them and asks that not realizing that street value of a NA 4V is way under KBB because of the Terminator being in the low $20k range for a nice one and the same with a 2011 car. I see ppl listing nice Machs for KBB of $16-$18k and feel bad, they will never get that when someone can just save a little more and get a Terminator.
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:42 PM   #31
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You can often get a decent Mach for $10-$12k if you look and are patient. You often have to wait out a seller who sees KBB on them and asks that not realizing that street value of a NA 4V is way under KBB because of the Terminator being in the low $20k range for a nice one and the same with a 2011 car. I see ppl listing nice Machs for KBB of $16-$18k and feel bad, they will never get that when someone can just save a little more and get a Terminator.
Yea, that's true. I had a question, will my stock hood fit the explorer intake. Also I know I will need a Duffy strut tower brace. and I found a guy on cl selling gt40 3 bar heads with a b303 cam for $300. so I get payed today, if he still has them tommrow I'll offer him $250 and see where it goes from there. I was thinking of getting a e303 since its a DD and an automatic. what do you think? stll want a ridiculous idle though.

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Old 06-15-2014, 04:20 PM   #32
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I'm pretty much doing the same build you are & all the measurements from the Stock Intake & the GT40 Intake are pretty much the same. It's the Elbow that gives you problems. I bought the ( Professional Products 54150 Elbow Adapter 94-95 Mustang )
to solve the problem. Stock GT40 Elbows don't dip down under the strut tower brace & the aftermarket ones do. With a Stock Elbow you have to buy an aftermarket strut tower brace & if your brace hits your hood you'll have to change it too. Elbow adapters on Ebay are about $65-$100 depending on which one you choose. I can't see a part like this being made by Edelbrock, BBK, or whoever being any better than the cheaper counterpart so I paid about $70 for mine.
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:52 PM   #33
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Yea, that's true. I had a question, will my stock hood fit the explorer intake. Also I know I will need a Duffy strut tower brace. and I found a guy on cl selling gt40 3 bar heads with a b303 cam for $300. so I get payed today, if he still has them tommrow I'll offer him $250 and see where it goes from there. I was thinking of getting a e303 since its a DD and an automatic. what do you think? stll want a ridiculous idle though.

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Just make sure to set aside $600 or so for the dyno tune If you change the cam

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Old 06-15-2014, 04:59 PM   #34
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Hi Scotty,
Actually I found shopping around for a Dyno did me a lot of good. Remember the other day I told you AMP Performance wanted $700+ for a chip & tune? Well there's also a place here called FOX BODY PERFORMANCE that will Chip & Tune it for $450. Like I said before..." I think Amp is Shady & Over Priced !!!" So shop around if you need a tune...could save you hundreds.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Just make sure to set aside $600 or so for the dyno tune If you change the cam

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Yea, I'm actually going to get a "canned tune" for now and get an sct 4 banks tune form American muscle. then when I can afford it I'll get a real tune.
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