Best cam with 1.7s? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-27-2014, 10:57 PM   #1
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Best cam with 1.7s?

Trying to determine what would be the best cam to go with some 1.7 roller rockers. The setup I have right now is pretty basic: cold air intake, 65mm throttle body, smog pump delete, and ford racing shorty headers. Its a 95gt for what that's worth. I've heard either b303 or e303 seems to be the most popular. My buddy has a slightly used trickflow stage 1 he could give me, but considering buying a new one just to be 100% safe. Any feedback is greatly appreciated
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:25 AM   #2
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5.0 mustang: http://youtu.be/UmkOCvC05Xg heres what my e303 cam sounds like yeah sorry I had a bad exhaust leak in this video

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Old 07-28-2014, 10:12 AM   #3
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It seems silly to pass up the Trick Flow cam if your buddy is willing to give it to you. Even for cheaps, I think that the TF cam would probably be better than an alphabet cam.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:13 PM   #4
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Trickflow cams are great especially with their heads. I have an E-303 with trickflow heads and 1.7 roller rockers and it has a massive lope and sounds mean! Shakes the whole car


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Old 07-28-2014, 02:34 PM   #5
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That's what I was planning on eventually doing. Heads might take me a while to save up for. So I figured I have pretty much everything I need to gain some decent HP, just wasn't sure if I should buy a brand new cam or just clean up his spare trick flow. It was used with 1.7s too so I probably have nothing to worry about right?

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Old 07-28-2014, 03:41 PM   #6
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No, you shouldn't have anything to worry about using 1.7 rockers. Those 1.7's weren't mentioned in your list of upgrades... did you already swap them on to your stock heads? Or are they coming with the TF cam? You may need to get new valve springs to accommodate the added lift. Just a heads up.
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:38 PM   #7
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Yeah I was planning on doing the 1.7s and the tf can at the same time the motor is pretty much stock. I asked my buddy whose been building drag cars his entire life and he said I wouldn't really need new springs. I'm gonna upgrade to a double timing chain as well. (That's what he suggested) and then obviously I'm gonna get it re tuned at the dyno

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Old 07-29-2014, 06:37 AM   #8
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Stock heads=stock cam. You will see 0 gains from another cam as long as you have the stock heads and you will have to pay $500-$800 for a dyno tune if you do the cam in the meantime. For no gain... I tell ppl this all the time but nobody ever listens, maybe you will. User on here right now is going through this and can't seem to get it through his skull that the reason his car is running so badly is because he put an E cam in with stock heads and no tune. I did mention to him about 10 times that it was a bad idea prior to the fact. Oh well.

Anyway, wait till you do the heads/intake to do the cam. Better yet, find a set of good used GT40s and an explorer intake. Clean up and re-install with ARP studs and then supercharge the car. You'll be into it for the same or less money than a HCI (heads/cam/intake) and you'll be making 125-150rwhp more PLUS you'll retain stock street manners and gas mileage while just tooling around off boost.

Been there/done that/got the t-shirt. I would NEVER do a $$$ HCI a car with a good bottom end ever again. Never. Even if you leave the stock heads on, with a decent intake and a Vortech S trim you are a 400rwhp car. You will never come close to approaching that number with a HCI.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:47 AM   #9
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Stock heads=stock cam. You will see 0 gains from another cam as long as you have the stock heads and you will have to pay $500-$800 for a dyno tune if you do the cam in the meantime. For no gain... I tell ppl this all the time but nobody ever listens, maybe you will. User on here right now is going through this and can't seem to get it through his skull that the reason his car is running so badly is because he put an E cam in with stock heads and no tune. I did mention to him about 10 times that it was a bad idea prior to the fact. Oh well.

Anyway, wait till you do the heads/intake to do the cam. Better yet, find a set of good used GT40s and an explorer intake. Clean up and re-install with ARP studs and then supercharge the car. You'll be into it for the same or less money than a HCI (heads/cam/intake) and you'll be making 125-150rwhp more PLUS you'll retain stock street manners and gas mileage while just tooling around off boost.

Been there/done that/got the t-shirt. I would NEVER do a $$$ HCI a car with a good bottom end ever again. Never. Even if you leave the stock heads on, with a decent intake and a Vortech S trim you are a 400rwhp car. You will never come close to approaching that number with a HCI.
All of this makes perfect sense. Spending big money on heads for this motor is kind of silly. A set of gt40 heads and the gt40 intake can be had for cheaps on craigslist. And combined with a second hand Vortech off ebay, you have spent $2,500 and are making 350+rwhp... which is about as high as you can reliably go without seriously considering heavy duty transmission and drivetrain upgrades. Meanwhile, spending $3,000 on Trick Flow H/C/I might get you 250rwhp.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:29 AM   #10
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All of this makes perfect sense. Spending big money on heads for this motor is kind of silly. A set of gt40 heads and the gt40 intake can be had for cheaps on craigslist. And combined with a second hand Vortech off ebay, you have spent $2,500 and are making 350+rwhp... which is about as high as you can reliably go without seriously considering heavy duty transmission and drivetrain upgrades. Meanwhile, spending $3,000 on Trick Flow H/C/I might get you 250rwhp.
No, a trick flow HCI with all the supporting parts and a really good tune is around 310-320 to the wheels on a 302. A stock 93-95 Cobra was in the 230-240 range right off the showroom floor.

That said you are going to be into a TFS setup for $2500-$3k new (forget what they go for now) plus any ARP upgrades as well as the fuel system which should be bumped up with a better pump and at least 24s. The limit of the stock block safely without really having to worry about it is around 450 to the wheels. Ppl push them to 500 but that's right at the ragged edge. You can hit near the 400 number with just the blower and bolt ons. Literally just do the fuel system, install blower and get a tune. No digging into the engine required.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:52 AM   #11
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The Trick Flow set-up really gets the 300 wheel horsepower they advertise? That's good to know. Thanks for setting me straight.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:49 PM   #12
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They advertise 350hp which is roughly 310-320 at the wheels. Generally its not with the TFS 1 cam but the heads support the power. Good combo for a HCI is TW 170cc heads, custom FTI cam and a tmoss ported Cobra intake. However, as I said, I would just supercharge. Way more bang for your buck.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
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They advertise 350hp which is roughly 310-320 at the wheels. Generally its not with the TFS 1 cam but the heads support the power. Good combo for a HCI is TW 170cc heads, custom FTI cam and a tmoss ported Cobra intake. However, as I said, I would just supercharge. Way more bang for your buck.

That is my long term goals but I wants a better bump stick and heads .... I need to save up and send my gt40 intake to tmoss


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Old 07-29-2014, 09:05 PM   #14
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You simply don't need better heads for the 5.0 unless you need more than the safe level for the block. If you have GT40s anyway. Even the E7s will support 400+ if you cram enough boost through them.

I would not invest in any sort of HCI until one did a 351 based build and at that point it is cheaper to do a Coyote swap. There is 0 way in hell I would build a motor these days when a low mileage or new Coyote will be cheaper than a built motor and support 600+. Or a built Coyote that will support whatever you want pretty much and that is with the stock heads and cams too. They are nucking futs.

Having been in this hobby for so long... the Coyote really is a game changer. Not sure how much longer all the older stuff will be in production if more ppl wise up and just go Coyote. Plus then you get to run the badass new 5.0 badges lol.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:11 AM   #15
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Since its my daily, I didn't wanna go too crazy and make it "unreliable". Would you recommend buying a cheap set of gt40 heads and getting them ported and polished, and at the same time throw in the rollers and trick flow cam? Then once the money is saved up a year from now, start thinking about going forced induction?

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Old 07-31-2014, 10:16 AM   #16
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Tyler was just quoted $1500 to port a set of gt40 heads. Add in the cost of the heads and other little parts, and you are over $2000. Meanwhile, Vortech kits are floating around ebay for $3k or less.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:20 AM   #17
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Tyler was just quoted $1500 to port a set of gt40 heads. Add in the cost of the heads and other little parts, and you are over $2000. Meanwhile, Vortech kits are floating around ebay for $3k or less.

I think he was trying to rip me off I am getting more quotes over the weekend


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Old 07-31-2014, 11:07 AM   #18
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To do a cam swap is way harder than installing a CAI.


So if you plan on swapping cams in a stock headed car that is just ludicrous. It is not worth the price of the gaskets needed for the job.


Set a goal (realistic) and stick to it cause you will end up changing your mind 10 times and each time costs money.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:12 AM   #19
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Porting and polishing GT40s is a waste of money, I know, I basically flushed $800 down the toilet on a pair when I didn't know any better as a 19 yr old. By the time you get done porting them, you'll be into them for damn near as much as a brand new set of Trick Flows.

ONLY thing you should do to GT40s is take a dremel and a cartridge and smooth out the EGR bumps as a DIY thing which anyone who can use basic hand tools can do. Then have them cleaned/new seals/springs and a valvejob. If you get the heads for $100 out of the JY you can have them fully done for $500 which is a good deal.

Also ebay vortech kits are a ripoff as well, a good secondhand S trim kit for a 94/95 car is $1500 all day on the Corral classifieds. Remember, you will have to factor in a $600 dyno tune no matter what you do unless its just basic bolt ons.

If I ever had a low mileage fox or 94/95 car again I would try to find a Cobra and then just supercharge it or if not, I would do what I said. Bolt ons, cleaned GT40s with ARP studs, GT40 intake, MAYBE a $100 used TFS1 cam or just the stock GT cam, Vortech and tune it and done. Would obviously need a new transmission as well. That is something else to think about too, once you start getting into the mid 300rwhp range you have to start worrying about the T-5 letting go. This is not a cheap hobby...
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