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Old 09-04-2014, 05:16 PM   #36
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Ok I got a video of the codes. I'm still a little unsure of the pauses though. I'm going to try to catch it.


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Old 09-04-2014, 05:18 PM   #37
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the blinks happen in concession then a pause, then blinking in concession again. The pauses should be very evident. And there are 3 digit codes and 2 digit codes starting at 11 through 998
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:26 PM   #38
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the blinks happen in concession then a pause, then blinking in concession again. The pauses should be very evident. And there are 3 digit codes and 2 digit codes starting at 11 through 998

Hey man, I keep watching the video for the codes and every time I watch it, I get a different code. Can I upload a video to my YouTube and put a link to it. I've thought I've gotten 33, 123, 133


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Old 09-04-2014, 05:27 PM   #39
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Hey man, I keep watching the video for the codes and every time I watch it, I get a different code. Can I upload a video to my YouTube and put a link to it. I've thought I've gotten 33, 123, 133


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Yes by all means do that.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:31 PM   #40
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from the codes you think you have read is-

33=EGR Valve position (EVP) sensor or pressure feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve not opening or not sealed properly.

123=TPS signal voltage is too high

133= no such code

I think the 133 is actually the repeat cycle of 33 and 123 it will continually repeat the codes in order.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:35 PM   #41
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And if those 2 codes are correct then both make sense with what you are experiencing. I figured from the start that the TPS had to be part of this problem.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:51 PM   #42
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http://youtu.be/8KoEFBgjLcE

Here is the link.


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Old 09-04-2014, 06:05 PM   #43
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Both of those codes is what I get to. 33 and 123. So if we are correct, then now be have a base of where we need to start. EGR valve and the TPS.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:09 PM   #44
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Mustang acceleration problems

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Both of those codes is what I get to. 33 and 123. So if we are correct, then now be have a base of where we need to start. EGR valve and the TPS.

Ok sweet. Bro I'm going to feel stupid after the answer to this but when I tried to find the TPS on latemodel and American Muscle it came up with it for the 4.6 but only came up with throttle bodies for the 5.0's.

Edit: just found it on RockAuto.com

Thanks for all of y'all's help.! Means a lot!
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:17 PM   #45
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here is a video on changing and checking a TPS on a 5.0

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Old 09-04-2014, 06:20 PM   #46
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here is a video on changing and checking a TPS on a 5.0


Hey man, other than the brand, would both of these work? Click image for larger version

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Old 09-04-2014, 06:24 PM   #47
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yes they would. I always myself go with FORD parts, from Frod Parts Dept., you may pay a few dollars more, but it gives me a certain security. Alot of ppl buy from Rock Auto, I have never done so, but that is not saying anything either. Autozone also carries it too, not ford but duralast.

Duralast/Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (TPS255) | 1994 Ford Mustang 8 Cylinders T 5.0L SFI HO | AutoZone.com_
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:25 PM   #48
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The only code that I saw was 33. The second one was 33 being repeated. The single flash was nothing.
You need to diagnose the EGR system because when you go price the parts you're going to crap yourself. Its likely the EGR itself that's the problem but it will get expensive just throwing parts at it to fix the problem.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:27 PM   #49
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I watched it 3 times, and I got both 33 and 123.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:32 PM   #50
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I watched it 10 times!

It flashed 33 twice.

Watch it again Grumpy and pay close attention to the time interval between flashes...
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:33 PM   #51
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But that is why I posted that youtube video so you can test it first before you buy a TPS. Stray is right about just throwing parts at a vehicle. I do not believe in throwing parts at a car. It is a waste of time to do that only to have the same thing occur. That is why we are doing all this diagnostic work first. That also goes for the EGR testing too. I can give a simple test to see if the EGR is working or not.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:37 PM   #52
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I watched it 10 times!

It flashed 33 twice.

Watch it again Grumpy and pay close attention to the time interval between flashes...
I just watched it 4 mores times and I am not watching it anymore. I think you may be right though, it is a recycle of 3 and 3, the one blick is a recycle indicator of start over.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:41 PM   #53
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I just watched it 4 mores times and I am not watching it anymore. I think you may be right though, it is a recycle of 3 and 3, the one blick is a recycle indicator of start over.
Correct!

Lol
And it actually took me that many times to be sure!
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:46 PM   #54
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My eyes started to get stuck in position looking at the blinks to not miss something. Weird, and I am not even my morphine pill yet.

That reminds me...................
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:52 PM   #55
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Click image for larger version

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Do you think this would be good enough to check the voltage?


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Old 09-04-2014, 06:59 PM   #56
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But that is why I posted that youtube video so you can test it first before you buy a TPS. Stray is right about just throwing parts at a vehicle. I do not believe in throwing parts at a car. It is a waste of time to do that only to have the same thing occur. That is why we are doing all this diagnostic work first. That also goes for the EGR testing too. I can give a simple test to see if the EGR is working or not.

how do you test the egr valve?


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Old 09-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #57
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yes, but wait on that for a minute. After me watching that video you posted until my eyes went numb, I beleive straybullitt is right with it being only one code, and that code is 33. He and I watched it over and over combined about 30 times.

That being said, the EGR is code 33. You need to test the EGR valve first. Before we go any further.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:03 PM   #58
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yes, but wait on that for a minute. After me watching that video you posted until my eyes went numb, I beleive straybullitt is right with it being only one code, and that code is 33. He and I watched it over and over combined about 30 times.

That being said, the EGR is code 33. You need to test the EGR valve first. Before we go any further.

Ok no rush man. Thanks you and straybullitt for the help.!


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Old 09-04-2014, 07:17 PM   #59
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how do you test the egr valve?


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There is 3 simple methods I have learned over the yrs to check if the EGR is working properly is this.

Firest method-

Pull the vacuum tube from the EGR valve, have someone step slightly on the throttle or have someone place the car in gear and accelerate LIGHTLY WITH FOOT FIRMLY ON BRAKE AND PARKING BRAKE APPLIED and see if you can feel vacuum pull in the tube. If no, EGR may be defective.

Second method-

Disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR, connect a length of different vacuum hose to the disconnected EGR valve, then have someone accelerate like before, but this time, suck on the hose; the engine should start to run slightly rougher, if nothing happens, and if the diaphragm does not move inside the EGR then you will not be able to pull vacuum; that is, it will be like sucking air through a straw.

Third method-

If the EGR valve is stuck, you will have vacuum when you pull on the hose, but nothing happens with the engine.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:25 PM   #60
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Or you can put a length of vacuum hose on the vacuum fitting on the EGR valve and then suck on the hose. You should be able to see the diaphragm inside of the EGR moving. If it doesn't move when you suck on it, or it feels like you are sucking air through a straw, then it is likely that the EGR valve has failed and will need to be replaced.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:26 PM   #61
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Haha.
Grumpy beat me to it!
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:27 PM   #62
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Or you can put a length of vacuum hose on the vacuum fitting on the EGR valve and then suck on the hose. You should be able to see the diaphragm inside of the EGR moving. If it doesn't move when you suck on it, or it feels like you are sucking air through a straw, then it is likely that the EGR valve has failed and will need to be replaced.
So you put it in a few less words than I
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:28 PM   #63
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Thanks y'all.! I work the next 3 days and I'm off Monday so I will probably try to check it then. The egr valve is located down below the battery?? No? Yes??


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Old 09-04-2014, 07:29 PM   #64
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It's towards the back of the engine and is attached to the intake manifold.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:31 PM   #65
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It's towards the back of the engine and is attached to the intake manifold.

Oh dang, I was way off. Lol I'm not familiar with it so excuse my ignorance.


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Old 09-04-2014, 07:34 PM   #66
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Oh dang, I was way off. Lol I'm not familiar with it so excuse my ignorance.


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Old 09-04-2014, 07:38 PM   #67
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All of us started off knowing nothing.

All you need is the willingness to learn...


Yes sir.! I just recently got into this hobby, I had a v6 before but was to lazy to do anything with it but since I've got my 5.0, I've dumped over $1000 in it already and still adding to that. Breaking my bank. Lol I know all the basics and some things here and there but I'm trying to learn as much as possible.


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Old 09-04-2014, 07:45 PM   #68
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Here is a picture of a EGR for exactly your car. The holes on the underside is where the diaphram is, you can barely see the orange color through the holes.

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Old 09-06-2014, 12:51 PM   #69
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I was checking it out and the pipe where the big nut is not wielded at the bottom. Like so when I break lose the bolt, the whole pipe is going to come off.? Is it suppose to be like that or is it suppose to be wielded.Click image for larger version

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Like in the picture, it's the very bottom pipe. I'm confused.


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Old 09-06-2014, 01:52 PM   #70
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Im not sure that I understand your question. Are you saying that you think that when you remove the pipe from the EGR that the the "straight walled" pipe looks like it is going to separate from the "corrugated" section?
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