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Old 09-07-2014, 09:09 PM   #1
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Steeda Adj Clutch Cable (stiff)

I have a 93' cobra with a Steeda firewall adj clutch cable.

I think I need a new clutch but the pedal is ridiculously stiff even when I adjust the cable.

What causes it to be so stiff?
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:35 PM   #2
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Make sure its lubed up or rust or maby its time for a new one

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Old 09-07-2014, 10:45 PM   #3
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If that has a aluminum throw out bearing retainer it could have a wear groove on it. Or your pressure plate could be messed up.

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Old 09-08-2014, 10:45 AM   #4
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The fact that it is not an OEM cable is the reason it is stiff. Remove it ASAP and replace it with an OEM or Max Motorsports (identical to OEM) unit. Adjustability should be via a firewall adjuster anyway, not the cable itself.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:37 PM   #5
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I'm thinking to just go all new:

Pilot bearing
Rear main seal
Bell housing spacer plate
Pivot Stud
Clutch Fork
Fly wheel
Pressure plate
Friction plate
Clutch cable

That way I know its all new since there's no known history on the parts


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Old 09-08-2014, 01:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cynistersix View Post
I'm thinking to just go all new:

Pilot bearing
Rear main seal
Bell housing spacer plate
Pivot Stud
Clutch Fork
Fly wheel
Pressure plate
Friction plate
Clutch cable

That way I know its all new since there's no known history on the parts


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Well first get a new cable in there and see if that cures it. If your clutch is grabbing well and there is no noise from the TOB then no reason to tear into it and spend all that $$. It really is amazing how bad the aftermarket cables are.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:11 PM   #7
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Certainly doesn't feel like it's grabbing well at the moment. Punching it in first doesn't even break loose. Engine and trans only have 89k miles on them


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Old 09-08-2014, 03:03 PM   #8
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Actually ... not all aftermarket cables are bad. Without getting into proprietary information ... we produce cables for different distributors & they are just as good as the OEM cables.

Best Regards,

TJ

---------- Post added at 02:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:02 PM ----------

It is hard to diagnose what may be taking place ... sorry we can't be of more help.

Best Regards,

TJ
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:48 PM   #9
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I think the cable is stretched and the clutch is worn out. Seems like prior owner tightened it up to get the car to shift


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Old 09-08-2014, 04:42 PM   #10
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So is it the stock OEM cable?


Did you just slap an adjuster on it?
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:43 PM   #11
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It's a new car to me. Came with parts on it. Other owner knew nothing about it. I have no idea. Please read the thread.


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Old 09-08-2014, 04:49 PM   #12
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I did read the thread but without knowing the condition of the clutch, pressure plate, clutch cable, if you have the stock quadrant or not.....so many variables.
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:15 PM   #13
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I agree many variables. Just looking what else is possible. It will be coming apart in a week or so.


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Old 09-08-2014, 09:17 PM   #14
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I put a king cobra clutch with MM cable, quadrant and adjuster on a gt40 car and he races that thing every day. So far so good 30k miles and almost 3 years.

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1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:21 PM   #15
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Steeda Adj Clutch Cable (stiff)

Car has a steeda quadrant with steeda adj firewall but I don't know who makes the cable. Says made in Italy on it.

I enjoy fixing things like this and will certainly post pictures and results when I can tear into it.


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Old 09-09-2014, 07:56 AM   #16
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Swap the cable. You'll be surprised at how much better it feels. I run the MM quadrant, a stock Ford cable and a Fiore micro click firewall adjuster. Got the tension on the cable to where I like it and it is not too much preload on the TOB and it shifts like butter, even with the "notchy" 3650 in it.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Swap the cable. You'll be surprised at how much better it feels. I run the MM quadrant, a stock Ford cable and a Fiore micro click firewall adjuster. Got the tension on the cable to where I like it and it is not too much preload on the TOB and it shifts like butter, even with the "notchy" 3650 in it.
I got a "notchy" TKO even with a few upgraded and carbon fiber this and that. It really is apparent when I swap cars with a good friend of mine who has a turbo'ed 363 and a built Astro T5......that is butter.....melted butter.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:28 PM   #18
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There are two transmissions in Mustang world that will make you realize just how ****ty the TKO really is. One is the A5, the other is a Zak built T-45. Both are single rail systems and both are Borg Warner designs. The beauty of the A5 is that it is 75lbs and adapts to pretty much anything via an aftermarket bell.

I went from a low mileage T-5 in my 95 Cobra to a TKO (3550) myself back in the 2000s and I instantly regretted it. I had heard how ****ty they were but experiencing it is something else totally. Even my fresh 3650 shifts very well and is damn near as smooth and effortless in the higher RPM range as my T-5s were.

A Zak built T-45 will shift basically like an A5 as well and shift to 8K but its near $2k when all is said and done and you can't use a scattershield unless you were to find an OOP Keisler T-45 adapter which adds another $400 to the price. That is A5 territory and the A-5 is better.
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:14 PM   #19
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I'm a bit new to some of the stuff you guys are mentioning:

A5 - Who makes that transmission? - "shift to 8K"? what are you referring to here?
Zak built T-45 - Who makes this transmission?

Is an Astro T5 an A5?

I am looking to put out about 400 hp to the rear wheels when I'm done so a built transmission will be in the future just not now.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:57 PM   #20
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Look up Astro performance and see what they got.

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1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:43 PM   #21
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If you have a 93 and are staying with a manual just get the Astro A5. Astroperformance.com - Your Manual Drivetrain Specialist There is no other manual trans I'd run honestly, no reason to get a t-56 if you aren't road racing and a TKO shifts like a box of rocks. A5 is strong, light, and technically being a T-5 is going to be the smoothest shifting trans you'll come across.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:45 AM   #22
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If you have a 93 and are staying with a manual just get the Astro A5. Astroperformance.com - Your Manual Drivetrain Specialist There is no other manual trans I'd run honestly, no reason to get a t-56 if you aren't road racing and a TKO shifts like a box of rocks. A5 is strong, light, and technically being a T-5 is going to be the smoothest shifting trans you'll come across.
I'll take a look. Price isn't too bad. Does it require a shorter drive shaft? or any other new stronger parts? It seems like it would certainly survive what I'm planning to put under the hood.
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:17 PM   #23
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That's the beauty of it. It is still a T-5 externally. You literally drop your old trans out, and put this one right in. The only possible change would be if you requested a 6 or 7 tooth worm gear on the output shaft so you could run 3.73s or 4.10s and have the speedo be accurate.

If you do get one, you may want a .64 overdrive vs the .59 though. I can tell you from experience having a .62 overdrive in my 3650 that the RPM gap between 4th and 5th is 800-900 RPM so its a pain in the nuts to cruise at a certain speed because you are either lugging 5th or are whirring along in 4th. Having the .64 in there would bring 5th closer to 4th.

Or you could just run 3.08-3.31s and never have to worry about 5th unless you were on the highway...
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:34 PM   #24
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It is a stock T5 case with much stronger guts. So you drop your old tranny and install new tranny.
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:44 PM   #25
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You can also opt for the G-Force case which Astro is not too proud to use for an extra $300 although I've seen posts by Tony where he basically comes out and says its completely pointless without saying that.

NOTE: If anyone (including Hanlon... SMH...) tells you that the G Force and Astro transmissions are the same. They are not. If you put the A5 gears next to the GForce gears the A5 gears are CLEARLY bigger and stronger. It isn't even remotely close.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:38 PM   #26
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That's the beauty of it. It is still a T-5 externally. You literally drop your old trans out, and put this one right in. The only possible change would be if you requested a 6 or 7 tooth worm gear on the output shaft so you could run 3.73s or 4.10s and have the speedo be accurate.

If you do get one, you may want a .64 overdrive vs the .59 though. I can tell you from experience having a .62 overdrive in my 3650 that the RPM gap between 4th and 5th is 800-900 RPM so its a pain in the nuts to cruise at a certain speed because you are either lugging 5th or are whirring along in 4th. Having the .64 in there would bring 5th closer to 4th.

Or you could just run 3.08-3.31s and never have to worry about 5th unless you were on the highway...
Yeah I'm gonna put 3.73s in the rear... I feel like 4.10s are a little high but maybe later. Not ripping 1/4 miles in this car or racing it at all.

.62 over drive sounds nice based on what you're saying. What first gear ratio do you recommend?
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:46 AM   #27
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It only comes in one ratio set which has a 2.95 first gear. You can opt for a .59 or a .64 and I THINK a .74 or .80 (road race) 5th gear.

However, I would leave your T-5 alone until you actually get what you are doing done. The T-5 will hold up long enough while you are doing initial tuning and getting it running. I see way too many ppl buy all this $$$ stuff and then it sits in the garage collecting dust when the project gets 90% done and stalls for whatever reason.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:04 PM   #28
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So I put all the new parts in the car and it runs and it does a burn out... sorta. It wont break loose in 1st unless I drop the clutch. I ended up replacing the oil pan gasket as it was leaking on the fly wheel and the rear main as well as the throwout bearing.

Now the fun stuff, it still shifts like a son-of-a-b**ch like feels like it wants to go into gear most of the time but there's no way I'm changing gears smoothly. I have to shift in stages almost like going into first feels rough. Same as going into 3rd and reverse.

I wonder is it worth rebuilding the transmission at this point? or go with the Astro T5 and build the motor. A fellow LS builder suggested swapping out the 302 but I'm not convinced that's the best bang for the buck to get the 400hp at the rear that I want.

Side note: I found the car has a 4 bank tuner in it but no clue what the tunes are on in it so I haven't touched it.
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