Timing chain on my Sn95 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-15-2014, 09:22 AM   #1
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Timing chain on my Sn95

Drove car 100km to my buddies shop,
Getting new over axle tailpipes put on because it ditched my car and snapped one off,
Magnaflow is warranting it.

Drove down fine to the shop.

Get a message this morning.. When my buddy moved the car and drove it around the lot , the engine turned off,
Tried cranking it and it sounded way off on turnover, so he investigates.
Discovered the timing chain snapped.

What would the cause of this been?
Lucky it didnt happen when I was driving 100km.

Just got this motor recently second hand
Motor Has;
specs : motor is a 1993 block, stock crank polished journals and new bearings, stock rods with new bearings and wrist pins. Kiethblack hyperutetic pistons that are 020 over.
B303 cam ,Ford racing adjustable timming gears and chain, Ford racing lifters and Ford racing pushrods. Ford racing 1.7 roller rockers
Heads stock, been plained for true flat surface, also block has been decked 010 for true flat surface. ARP head studs as well as ARP intake bolts.
Trick flow street heat intake, Ford racing 70 mm TB and 75 mm egr spacer
Hope that helps oh also a Ford oil pump. All new when motor was done

What chain is best to replace with?
Thanks kyle.


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Old 09-15-2014, 10:52 AM   #2
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A ford racing timing chain is less than 100 bucks. When purchasing a used part second hand, you never really know what you are getting unless you inspect up and down 100%. So with everything you said you got who really knows what was done. Replace it and move forward. **** happens
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1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:28 PM   #3
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Camshaft bolt loosened off.
Damn.
Anyone like bent pushrods?


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Old 09-16-2014, 01:55 PM   #4
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Oh boy,
Off to be machined.
Sad.


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Old 09-17-2014, 09:30 AM   #5
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Yikes. Although I have my doubts as to whether that motor had the valvetrain properly setup anyway. Generally, if someone takes the time to do it right and measure for proper pushrod length they are going to be solid 1 piece. Not measuring for proper pushrod length means excessive valvetrain wear and possible PTV in a worst case scenario.
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:43 AM   #6
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Yep,
Live and learn.
A 2000$ engine can quickly turn into that 5-6000 engine you wanted in the first place.


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Old 09-17-2014, 10:46 AM   #7
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It seems like you will be starting from the beginning.


Sucks.
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:46 AM   #8
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:50 AM   #9
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Man that even pains me.


I guess you bought the motor assembled by someone who "put" this together? Uuugghhh terrible.
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1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 09-17-2014, 11:02 AM   #10
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Indeed.
Hopefully bottom end isnt pooched


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Old 09-17-2014, 12:51 PM   #11
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Not going to lie, those look like stock factory pushrods... Because these are FRPP pushrods

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...l302/overview/

Which means the jackass who built this did NOT replace them with the correct length. You'd have had excessive valvetrain wear regardless, maybe the cam bolt backing off was a blessing in disguise? Sucks but better it fails where it did then an hour from your house in the rain.

Bottom end is likely just fine. However, you may want to redo the bearings and re-torque everything with plasti-gage while its out and do new seals too. If the cam bolt backed off that means the previous owner very likely did not torque it on properly and god knows what else was not done to spec. As evidenced by the stock pushrods...

Not sure what the rest of the combo is but I would be looking for a real cheap set of GT40 heads and intake. 3 bar GT40s if you can find them for header clearance and ability to change spark plugs without being a yoga expert. DIY grind down the EGR bumps, get a valve job done and have them cleaned and checked. Bolt it all back up with a $100 TFS1 cam and the right pushrods and then get it dyno tuned. You should make 275-280rwhp with bolt ons and a full longtube exhaust.
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Old 09-17-2014, 01:16 PM   #12
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"Performer heads, bottom of the barrel aluminums in terms of performance although they are a great bump over stock. Not much in the way of porting available on them and they are the 1.9 intake valves. I'd sell"

Have these sitting on my shelf.


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Old 09-17-2014, 04:17 PM   #13
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I made 300whp through performers. 2.02 intake valves tho. They are decent heads don't knock them. You'll probably do 280 with those and a good intake/cam. I ran a ported Cobra and a comp xe270hr-112. Longtubes, or pipe, pullies, 75mm maf and the stock 60mm tb.

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Old 09-19-2014, 09:09 AM   #14
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Pistons weren't tight
Wasnt bored 30 over
..
Rebuild time


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