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Old 03-03-2015, 11:52 AM   #1
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car will not start

So the other day. I went out too heat my mustang up because it's cold out. The car started right up. I walked back into the house when I came back out the car was off. I tried starting it again but no luck. It's turning over fine. I can hear the pump come on so I don't think it's that. I've changed the tfi module and the whole distributor Still no luck. Anybody else have this issue? 1988 GT
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:06 PM   #2
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I'd replace the ignition coil on that bad boy


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Old 03-07-2015, 10:04 PM   #3
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how long the thing run before that happened? coil could have got heat soaked one too many times. You did have oil and coolant in it?
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:27 PM   #4
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Follow the instructions in the link below to locate the source of your problem.
How to Solve an EFI No Start
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91 LX 342ci(10.5:1)
TFS 190cc(stage ll)
TFS track heat
XE276HR .544" .544"
Flowtech 1 3/4"
Prochamber w FM
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:56 AM   #5
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Hold the gas pedal to the floor while trying to start it.If it starts,that's usually a sign you've got a leaking injector and its causing a flood condition.When you floor the pedal on a efi vehicle during startup,it shuts the injectors off.The ignition module,coil and fuel pressure regulator can cause your issue if either one of them are experiencing heat soak.Make sure fuel isn't seeping out the regulator vacuum port or its vacuum hose while the engines running.If so its bad.The ect sensor is another part that causes this type of problem.You can test it with a ohmmeter.Test it while the engines cold then warm the engine up for 15 minutes and test it again.To test,disconnect the wiring harness,touch the meter probes to the sensor terminals and take a reading.If the readings don't match the numbers below,its bad.
Cold Engine
50°=58,750 ohms.
68°=28,700 ohms
Warm Engine
194°=2800 ohms
212°=2070 ohms
The next time you encounter the no start condition,remove the air intake hose from the throttle body,spray carb cleaner or starting fluid into the TB opening then try starting the car.If it starts and runs for a few seconds then dies,its a no fuel problem.If it doesn't start at all,its a no spark problem.The ignition switches are suspect in the Foxbodys too.
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91 LX 342ci(10.5:1)
TFS 190cc(stage ll)
TFS track heat
XE276HR .544" .544"
Flowtech 1 3/4"
Prochamber w FM
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:14 PM   #6
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How to solve EFI problems for good and gain 10% horsepower while doing it:





Reman carb = $350 (if you cant find a good used one for $100 like I did)
Megajolt ign control = $150
Horsepower gains = 25-30
Not getting stranded = Priceless

Or you can try to fix your EFI
Fuel pump = $200 (might fix it)
Fuel injectors= $150-250 (maybe fix it also)
ECU = $250 - $500 (could possibly be fried)
Realizing you spent $900 and still didnt fix it? = priceless
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:55 PM   #7
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Its also a good idea to see if any codes are present.The check engine light does not have to be on in order for codes to be present.Its actually more common than you think to have codes present without the cel being on.The link below will show you a step by step procedure to extract codes without a scanner.There are a few sensors that will cause the cel to come on only during the time that the sensor is causing a driveability issue,such as occurs with an intermittent fault.Even though the sensor is bad,it only causes the light to come on intermittently rather than continuously.You also made a comment about the fuel pump probably being OK since you can hear it prime once the key is turned on,but that only means its getting energized.You could have a leak or loose hose clamp on the short hose between the pump and fuel inlet pipe or the pump failing to reenergize after it primes/cuts off/then reenergizes after seeing the pip signal pulse,etc.When you turn the key on,the EEC relay energizes,EEC relay provides ignition on power to the ecm/injectors/solenoids/sensors and the fuel pump relay,the FP relay energizes the pump for 2-5 seconds,then the pump cuts off til it sees the signal from the pip sensor which tells it the engine is rotating,then the FP relay energizes the pump again.It wouldn't hurt to do a pressure test to see if the pump is OK or not.After you read through the info in the link below,go ahead and click on the Joel's Engine Management section and EECIV Trouble Shooting section if you wanna do any other tests on efi related sensors.DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure
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91 LX 342ci(10.5:1)
TFS 190cc(stage ll)
TFS track heat
XE276HR .544" .544"
Flowtech 1 3/4"
Prochamber w FM
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:34 PM   #8
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Well Panther 140 you seem to have forgotten a few things like an intake manifold, fuel lines, a fuel pressure regulator, air cleaner (all of which cost money). Also you are gaining hp for the sole fact that you are upgrading the intake and fuel system. You would gain hp by upgrading the intake, TB and MAF. Then the next choke point would be the heads so.....
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Old 04-02-2015, 12:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurf stang View Post
Well Panther 140 you seem to have forgotten a few things like an intake manifold, fuel lines, a fuel pressure regulator, air cleaner (all of which cost money). Also you are gaining hp for the sole fact that you are upgrading the intake and fuel system. You would gain hp by upgrading the intake, TB and MAF. Then the next choke point would be the heads so.....
You can put a carb on your stock manifold. And you will still gain power. utilize your unlimited access to information. heres a link Google

MAF? on a carburetor? TB on a carburetor? seriously? lol

You can run low pressure carb fuel pump through stock efi lines that come on any car. The gravity feed pumps are like $30 (mucchhhh cheaper than an efi pump)

And some of them dont even need a FPR, but that costs $10 so who the hell cares
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther140 View Post
You can put a carb on your stock manifold. And you will still gain power. utilize your unlimited access to information. heres a link Google

MAF? on a carburetor? TB on a carburetor? seriously? lol

You can run low pressure carb fuel pump through stock efi lines that come on any car. The gravity feed pumps are like $30 (mucchhhh cheaper than an efi pump)

And some of them dont even need a FPR, but that costs $10 so who the hell cares
I know there is no maf or TB on a carb. I was saying that you are gaining power because you upgraded the intake and fueling system. Same thing as upgrading the intake, maf and tb on a fuel injected car.
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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