I'm a student in automotive school who knew very little before I started. That being said. I need some solid advice on these events that happened in the last month. It all started with surging idle. So I set base idle to 900 and do proper procedure according to all data. I get the idle surge to go away. A week later it started giving me a check engine
I would start the car and as soon as it warmed up. Bam. Check engine
So I brought to auto zone. No codes on scan tool. I'm stumped. But when driving, it started tonintermittently buck and jerk on acceleration. Only when starting to give more gas. Finally a week later it stalled while at a light. And wouldn't start back up. It would spin but not fire. So I popped hood. Disconnected battery and reconnected. Tried to fire again. It sounded like it wanted to, but stuttered out. Tried again same thing. Tried a few more times and got a backfire or pop. I floored it to try and keep it running and I did. It didn't stall out again. But the intermittent jerking upon acceleration happened more frequently and id just give it more gas to push through it and it would go away because i felt like it wasn't getting enough fuel maybe..Until one day it fired up so good. As soon as i turned the key the engine roared to life. Started driving home from school, I was at a a light. Gave it gas and it bucked and jerked whiplashing me and it sounded like something snapped or shorted and died slowly.. The speedometer slowly dropped and engine rpm slowly went down and would not start back up. Everything went off but the lights Now all it does is crank(starter spins engine it sounds like). These are my current mods. Any advice? I've done electrical testing on fuel pump and its. Battery is fully charged, tested ccrm but grabbing voltage from pin #5 .253 v...tfi is getting power but can't tell if it works or is sending signal. and ignition module idk how to test... Or ign switch.
Did not check grounds yet. I'm limited on time with work and school. Whenever I get a chance I'm messing around though.*
I should mention I break my back with leg presses to get clutch in even after adjusting cable. It works it way back
306ci 5.0 cobra motor EFI N/A
Dyno & SCT tuned.*
Brand new prettyuch. Block was cleaned and painted, (hand built) bored .030 over motor. Machined, All new internals.*
Just finished breaking in normal operating with mobile1 blend.*
Less than 1000 miles on motor
Changed oil to valvoline full synthetic 10-30 with motorcraft filter
F303 cam I'm pretty sure is in there
Recently machined and milled GT40p heads in perfect condition.
All new*Fel Pro gaskets*(entire kit)
ARP head bolts
70mm throttle body.
BBK 70mm MAF*
BBK*cold air intake.
Flow master 44's*full*cat back exhaust.
Bassani x-pipe w/performance cats
Crane cam Hi-s 6 ignition setup with built in rev limiter
New MSD*distributor cap and rotor
New MSD street fire coil*
New Taylor pro Spiro wires w/nylon heat resistant wire seperators
New 150 amp alternator with new harness and 4 gauge PA wire with 200 Amp fuse*
Fuses seem to be ok
New water pump*
New Upper and lower radiator hoses.
Optima red top battery*
New Autolite 104 ap plugs
BBK firewall*clutch cable*adjuster
Stage 2 RAM clutch HD*pressure plate
New MSD street fire coil
Short throw shifter.*
Castor camber plates
Strut tower bar
Upper and*lower control arms.
Front and rear*sway bars.*
Polyurethane bushings throughout.
New trans mount and bushing