Rattling upon acceleration? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-16-2015, 01:52 AM   #1
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Rattling upon acceleration?

Weird rattling sound upon acceleration. And another weird noise cruising in 5 the gear when I let off gas pedal..rattle Also occurs when disengaging clutch. Why does it feel like I have to throw my back into the seat to press my clutch in?

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Old 03-16-2015, 01:56 AM   #2
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Its real stiff. Doesn't feel right. I tried clutch adjuster on my firewall and placed a dime in between. I read that somewhere to set it with a dime...but who knows?

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Old 03-16-2015, 01:58 AM   #3
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Its so hard to press it takes me a few seconds to open. I feel like its going to eat my gears up because its it presses so slowly and stiff

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Old 03-16-2015, 12:37 PM   #4
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New or old cable?


What type of adjuster?


What type of quadrant?


What type of clutch?


I have seen clutch cables burnt on headers before. Improper routing can cause this also. Crappy unlubed cables can also cause headaches.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:26 PM   #5
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The rattling though, I think it might be a clutch fork problem.


A worn out clutch fork can lose the retaining clip things, and they can rattle around a lot.


Might have other problems too though
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:09 PM   #6
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At best its a shot cable or quadrant which is easy. At worst its something inside the bell which means trans pull.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:06 AM   #7
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It looks like its rubbing on something. Its starting to fray slightly. When I turn by hand it gets better. But turns back and becomes tight again. There are two nuts but I don't know how to properly tighten them...to keep from turning back... The quadrant type I have no clue...its blue that's all I know

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Old 03-17-2015, 12:07 AM   #8
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My dad said BBK. I'll upload in am when I have light

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Old 03-17-2015, 06:33 AM   #9
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Well there is likely the culprit right there in the pic or at least a big part of your problem. Someone installed an aftermarket (junk) clutch cable in there. That is not OEM which means it is going to bind, fray and snap. You need to order an actual OEM FORD cable from your dealer or online but it MUST be OEM. Let me say that one more time... OEM ONLY.

The BBK quadrant is ok but a Max Motorsports one is the only one that mimics the stock quadrant feel exactly. Not sure what you are talking about with a dime and the firewall but the correct way to adjust the clutch cable is to set the TOB preload while the car is running.

Preload:

-Once you get the new cable installed, put the car up on ramps and with the dust cover removed from the clutch fork, look into the bellhousing with the flashlight and make sure you can see the TOB ok and everything looks good. Let the firewall adjuster out so the cable is slack.

Then... with the car chocked and someone in there with foot on the brake and the E brake set and the car in neutral, start it and crawl under there with it running and have a third person start tightening the firewall adjuster slowly until you just see the TOB start to spin. Once that is done, you get in the car and start working the pedal and adjust the firewall tighter till you get the feel you like but don't go too tight or you will be putting a lot of extra wear on the TOB and potentially keep the clutch from fully engaging.

You have now set your preload. Note that some ppl will tell you that the TOB should not be spinning when the pedal is at rest and you should install a "freeplay kit" to keep the TOB off the clutch fingers. Those ppl have no clue as the TOB is designed to always be spinning. Reason for this is that you don't want a bearing going from 0-potentially 6,000 RPMs in a split second when you push the clutch in not to mention it isn't designed for the wear that such an event will cause to the actual surface of the TOB itself and the clutch fingers.
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Old 03-17-2015, 04:38 PM   #10
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Scotty just said a mouthful but he is on point.
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1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
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Old 03-17-2015, 05:10 PM   #11
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Lol yea I'm under the car right now checking it out. It doesn't look good

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Old 03-17-2015, 05:29 PM   #12
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That's the quadrant. Don't know the model

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Old 03-17-2015, 05:31 PM   #13
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The cable looks like its gonna go

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Old 03-17-2015, 05:33 PM   #14
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Any ideas on what this is? Rear main? Or oil pan?

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Old 03-17-2015, 05:35 PM   #15
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Decent underneath

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Old 03-17-2015, 05:37 PM   #16
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And I do not see any ground straps

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Old 03-17-2015, 08:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95gtnewb View Post
That's the quadrant. Don't know the model

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That's a firewall adjuster. Does look like a BBK. Quadrant attaches to your clutch pedal. The stock one is plastic and self adjusting. Also that firewall adjuster is adjusted tight as ****...

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The cable looks like its gonna go

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Yeah dude I honestly would not drive the car with that cable. Probably half or all or your problem right there.

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Any ideas on what this is? Rear main? Or oil pan?

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The pic you took is directly between the trans and the block so yeah, that's where the rear main is.

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Decent underneath

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Agree

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And I do not see any ground straps

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Ground strap should be going from the left motor mount to the frame. I highly doubt you'd be able to drive with it missing and not notice major electrical anomalies.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:18 AM   #18
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What kind of electrical problems are we talking about?

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Old 03-18-2015, 07:13 AM   #19
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Flickering lights, jumping gauges, stuttering/surging, stalling, just rando weird **** going on. Its a good idea to replace the grounding strap anyway at the age the SN95s are at when even the newest one is 11 yrs old. I replaced mine on my 95 and 98 with a 0 gauge battery cable and added a second one to the passenger's side just because why not.
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Old 03-18-2015, 09:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Flickering lights, jumping gauges, stuttering/surging, stalling, just rando weird **** going on. Its a good idea to replace the grounding strap anyway at the age the SN95s are at when even the newest one is 11 yrs old. I replaced mine on my 95 and 98 with a 0 gauge battery cable and added a second one to the passenger's side just because why not.
Hmmmm, I think I can think of somebody who has been dealing with a few of those symptoms!!
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Old 03-18-2015, 11:53 AM   #21
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Yea that's what mine does. The battery voltage drop a bit and the windows become slower to operate. Sometimes it stuttered. I found my ground strap..looks old and multi/discolored. Thick gauge wire built into my harness, bolted to my engine mount. I don't want to take the whole harness out though to replace it. Can I just add one to the bolt?

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Old 03-18-2015, 12:18 PM   #22
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They have the (gtp) stamp and I remember my dads mechanic, the one who did the work, showing me you can always tell the difference when the heads either have 3 or 4 lines on them. Thing is he works the oil Riggs in north Dakota and is only around but one week out of the month.

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Old 03-18-2015, 12:20 PM   #23
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The car has polyurethane bushings all throughout. And polyurethane motor mount bushings. We took the tranny one off and put stock back on.

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Old 03-18-2015, 12:21 PM   #24
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You can tell by the spark plug angle as well

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Old 03-18-2015, 12:55 PM   #25
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my ground strap was disconnected one time and the car would not charge, it also ran like crap as if the spark timing was way off
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:17 PM   #26
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Yep, definitely GT40P heads. Have fun with the spark plugs lol. Longtubes that work with those is MACs and its always a good idea to get spark plug wires with adjustable plugs on them. I had those and some of my wires were going like straight out and others were beyond 90 degrees. Also it looks like you have a Cobra intake on the car already too. At this point, leave the stock cam alone (unles already done) since the GT cam is actually a really good blower cam and throw 10-12 psi at it via a S trim supercharger. Like I've been saying, you'll be getting right near the safe limit of the stock block at that point.

As far as the rattling, honestly I would just buy the Maximum Motorsports cable/quadrant/adjuster kit. Comes with an OEM cable and will replace the sketch looking stuff you have.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:37 PM   #27
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And it looks like you have spark plug sleeves which is a good thing with P heads.


Get a blower or a On3 turbo kit and either will give you enough power to split the block.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:52 PM   #28
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Can I run a 0 gauge Wire from negative bat cable to where the old one is and just leave it alone? Or do I need to unhook the old crappy ground that runs throughout my harness? And yea I just did the spark plugs. It took me a couple days to figure it out. And as of right now I have a plug stuck in there because it rounded out the bolt

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Old 03-18-2015, 01:54 PM   #29
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Rounded it out almost completely

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Old 03-18-2015, 01:55 PM   #30
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I had to make this for the #7 plug with the shorties and their ridiculous clearance issues

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Old 03-18-2015, 01:59 PM   #31
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Noe. Can't get it out. But the plugs are all new. Its just when I have to change them again. I'm screwed

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