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Old 04-08-2015, 07:57 PM   #1
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New car! Maybe?

Hey guys I was told of a 92 mustang that was missing a motor and transmission, I've been dying to get another mustang. What are your thoughts?

Only asking $250, has a clean title, v8 car.

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Old 04-08-2015, 07:58 PM   #2
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At that price I feel like why not

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Old 04-08-2015, 08:11 PM   #3
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At that price I feel like why not

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My thoughts as well, seems very cheap to me. I'm not sure what these usually go for though..

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Old 04-08-2015, 08:19 PM   #4
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My thoughts as well, seems very cheap to me. I'm not sure what these usually go for though..

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I can't imagine them getting any cheaper

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Old 04-08-2015, 08:32 PM   #5
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I would check for rust and just be prepared to invest a lot of money getting it back on the road. Do you know how long it was sitting for?


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Old 04-08-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
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I was told he bought it about 7 months ago, it had a 3 inch cowl hood that he recently sold but he has a stock hood. I have no idea when it last seen the highway. Hope its pretty much rust free!!

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Old 04-09-2015, 06:41 AM   #7
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I see well over $250 in parts alone just from what looks like a decent exterior and a Cobra wing. How's the interior? It is probably going to have some rust issues from sitting in a field but stranger things have happened. If its pretty clean and straight that's a perfect swap candidate for something like a modfox since you can get a 96-98 donor car with a blown drivetrain for like... not much more than you are paying for this. Find a pullout PI motor from a JY and get the T45 rebuilt and there you go.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:12 PM   #8
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Okay guys I got the car, still think it was a steal. The body is pretty straight, not really any rust at all. The interior is halfway there, I believe most of the dash is there missing the front seats. It has a 140mph gauge in it. Since I got the car so cheap I'm thinking about flipping it and buying a more expensive/better shape one that has a motor and transmission. Or Parting it out, maybe keep it for a parts car.

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Old 04-10-2015, 10:43 PM   #9
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If you have a little time and don't mind a little mess,part it out and make four times that money very quickly.

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Old 04-10-2015, 10:49 PM   #10
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Find a NPI modular with a blown motor for under $1k. Use it as a donor car, make a modfox. Pull a PI motor out of a JY for $200 and drop it right in.


Or part it and make 3-5x your money back.
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:25 AM   #11
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Okay guys I let my brother see the car, he wants to build a street/strip car. Its going to become a family project. We got most the interior out of it, never found any bad rust spots. The plan now is to find an old 302, strip it down, stroke it to a 347. Make a nice play toy out of it.

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Old 04-13-2015, 06:39 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Shane Bales View Post
Okay guys I let my brother see the car, he wants to build a street/strip car. Its going to become a family project. We got most the interior out of it, never found any bad rust spots. The plan now is to find an old 302, strip it down, stroke it to a 347. Make a nice play toy out of it.

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Coyote swap. Seriously. If you do go pushrod then start with a 351, its the same cost pretty much and you won't be limited to the 450ish whp range. Start looking around in JYs for 94-up 351 powered Econoline vans. Those are EVERYWHERE and have the roller ready blocks in them.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:30 PM   #13
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Gotta agree with Scotty.....start with a 351 base and build from there. Even if you just freshen it up, it is still better than a 302.
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:28 PM   #14
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I agree with you both, but we already have a 302 and a transmission to go with it. Plan on getting all forged internals and maybe someday putting some boost to it. For now we're stripping it down, going to get some pipe and weld up a roll cage. Put some tubs in the rear. Get it all ready for paint.

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Old 04-15-2015, 07:17 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Shane Bales View Post
I agree with you both, but we already have a 302 and a transmission to go with it. Plan on getting all forged internals and maybe someday putting some boost to it. For now we're stripping it down, going to get some pipe and weld up a roll cage. Put some tubs in the rear. Get it all ready for paint.

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Putting forged internals in a stock block is an effort in futility and a complete waste of your cash. The STOCK internals in the 302 will hold up longer than the block will. You can forge the living **** out of the 302 but nothing you do will prevent it from splitting right down the lifter valley at 500 or so rwhp. You NEED to get an aftermarket block if you plan on spending $$$ on buffing up a 302.

The 351 is good for 700+ easy and you can get a good rebuild candidate for like $350 so using the "I already have the 302" excuse does not hold water.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:59 PM   #16
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Going to agree with Scotty again.

Seen plenty of valleys split and main caps walk. 302 is a nice little motor but the stock block does not have enough meat.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:32 PM   #17
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Putting forged internals in a stock block is an effort in futility and a complete waste of your cash. The STOCK internals in the 302 will hold up longer than the block will. You can forge the living **** out of the 302 but nothing you do will prevent it from splitting right down the lifter valley at 500 or so rwhp. You NEED to get an aftermarket block if you plan on spending $$$ on buffing up a 302.

The 351 is good for 700+ easy and you can get a good rebuild candidate for like $350 so using the "I already have the 302" excuse does not hold water.
Did not know that, I'll pick up a new block then. When its time to build the motor. Thanks for the info.

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Old 04-15-2015, 10:34 PM   #18
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I thought it would at least handle 500ish

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Old 04-16-2015, 09:47 AM   #19
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Some do, some don't but 500whp is the accepted "limit" and that's with a really spot on tune. And you'll still see evidence of cap walk on most of them that held up at that power level for awhile when you do a teardown.


The 351 roller block is good for 700+ but you have to make sure you pull the cam bearings and check for cracking under there as it is a known problem with some of those blocks. Safest bet is to get a prepped block and rotating assembly or just order an assembled shortblock from www.fordstrokers.com. You won't really save any money trying to piece it together yourself and that place does top notch work.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:05 AM   #20
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Did not know that, I'll pick up a new block then. When its time to build the motor. Thanks for the info.

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A new block of what?
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:44 PM   #21
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Hopefully he means a 351 block.
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:07 PM   #22
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Yes a 351, I'll go ahead and use the 302 for something else.

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Old 04-16-2015, 07:55 PM   #23
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The 351 roller block is good for 700+ but you have to make sure you pull the cam bearings and check for cracking under there as it is a known problem with some of those blocks. Safest bet is to get a prepped block and rotating assembly or just order an assembled shortblock from www.fordstrokers.com. You won't really save any money trying to piece it together yourself and that place does top notch work.
Yeah Woody & Joel at Ford Strokers do build some nice engines and you can call them anytime to get technical questions or issues resolved vs being put on hold or ignored like some engine companies do.They are not just engine guys either,they run http://sbftech.com and know more about the Mustang and the EEC-IV,etc systems than any other guy on the net,as far as I'm concerned. I've learned a lot since I've become a member of that site.DSSRacing.com also builds some nice stuff.These two companies know what it means to pay attention to detail and practice it everyday.
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Old 04-17-2015, 05:05 PM   #24
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DSS had a lot of issues in the early-mid 2000s... Kind of like mmr now. I would not put them in the same breath with fordstrokers even if they have resolved their problems.

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Old 03-08-2016, 03:56 PM   #25
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Well its been a long while. I've been working out on the road finally got some time back home. I've barely touched the fox but I did do a 5 lug swap since I have two sets of wheels and tires off of my edge and now it can be easily rolled around in the garage. I've stripped the interior and wires. About to start cutting the floors. I've been eyeballing some back half kits. Also decided against the 351. I'm going a different route. I'm not going for the best option just what I want. I rebuilt a 390 I'm gonna guess it's around 475-500 hp, a decent start. I also rebuilt a c6 transmission myself that I plan on using. There's gonna be a ton of work to just make them both fit but it's what I want. I noticed a site that sells everything I need for the fe swap. None of this is going to happen quickly at all because I work 8-10 months a year on the road but I have a plan and will be on here when I have questions. Thanks for all the info so far 👍

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Old 03-14-2016, 05:02 PM   #26
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Starting to think the whole car is out of line lol. I had two sets of wheels and tires off of my old mustang my 02. The stock and the wides. The wides obviously wouldn't fit but I figured the stocks would. After all it's like an 8.5" wheel with 225's. One side fits with about a quarter inch to spare, the other side is against the strut. Why do you guys think both sides are different?
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