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Old 04-21-2015, 04:05 PM   #1
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Smog pump bypass?

Hey everyone I'm sure there are already threads on this topic but im new and suck at navigating the forums still, im pretty green at working on my new 89 5.0 and while trying to replace my water pump I noticed my smog pump pulley had a nice wobble, instead of replacing it I want to try and bypass it, is it necessary to remove the smog pump and all of its connections and plug everything? Or can I just buy a shorter belt, go around it and leave everything as it is? And if so will I mess anything up? Thanks in advance !
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:46 PM   #2
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You can get a shorter belt but you might as well drop the weight cause it will just be dead weight in the front end


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Old 04-22-2015, 04:20 PM   #3
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Do you still have cats?
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:55 PM   #4
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[QUOTE=kickerofdoom;2215608]You can get a shorter belt but you might as well drop the weight cause it will just be dead weight in the front end


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Yeah your right it would be pointless to have it just sitting there, I just wasn't sure of what it actually took to remove everything and cap or plug vacuum lines and the head , I've read several ways of doing it, but I'm still newbish and just being extra careful not to screw anything up in the process lol
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:57 PM   #5
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Yes I do still have cats
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:37 PM   #6
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The air injection into the cats from the smog pump helps them function, they'll get hot as **** if you remove the smog pump. I'd get an OR pipe, drop the pump and all the crap plumbing and run a short belt.
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:52 PM   #7
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Exactly, if you do plan on getting rid of the smog pump an off road mid pipe is in your future.
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:11 AM   #8
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Cool i appreciate the advice guys, I'm deleting the cats and taking it from there!! Lol thanks
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:52 PM   #9
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Honestly, with a 1989 if they are originals they are almost guaranteed to be corked up or at least not flowing very well anymore. I'd keep the mid pipe if you need to go through emissions every year or two or pass a visual. I used to do the mid-pipe shuffle every other March when I had my Cobra.
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:45 PM   #10
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What does corked up mean? And would I be able to tell if they were original or not? The previous owner put in flow masters,heads, intake, cam and bbk headers, it was driving good but the temp gauge was fluctuating pretty bad but not over heating, so I replaced the thermostat and am replacing the water pump (havent started her up yet) I'm just not trying to just throw the belt back on with a wobble in the smog pump because I don't want to create other problems, I would just throw it on drive it until I can get the cats removed so I can get a shorter belt and delete the smog pump, unless it's just a totally bad idea to even drive it like that (not a SERIOUSLY wobble but when I spin it by hand I can tell)
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:23 PM   #11
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Don't go by the stock gauge as that thing is just for show. Invest in a good ole mechanical unit.

And when Scotty says corked up he means they can get clogged up full of junk, sometimes they overheat and it gets kinda like welded up in there. Or over time they begin to break apart and rattle like hell.
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:11 PM   #12
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You can do one of three things.Leave the crossover pipe connected to the heads then cap/plug the diverter valve end of the pipe because it has a check valve installed at the beginning of the pipe.A check valve only allows air to pass from the diverter valve end towards the heads.It shouldn't let any air pass in the opposite direction, towards the smog pump.Your next choice is to cut the ends off the crossover pipe,flip them over and bolt them on again,so the ends will be covering the thermactor holes.The last choice is to remove the pipe then install plugs in the thermactor holes.The link below shows how to use the cut off ends of the pipe.If you do the last option,the part number for the plugs is F4ZZ-6E086-A......

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...g/100_4767.jpg
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