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Old 04-27-2015, 02:50 PM   #1
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I'm doomed

So there's hella metal in my oil and I'm basically ****ed to Mars it's gonna cost me around 6gs for a professional rebuild or install new engine. I'm going to buy a 1968 302 and throw that ***** in my 95 don't talk me out of it I just need some advice on how to do this the right way on a budget! I will be doing in this by myself


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Old 04-27-2015, 02:52 PM   #2
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I'm ****ed

That sucks,

6gs can get you a coyote
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Old 04-27-2015, 02:52 PM   #3
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6g? Lol just get a remanufactured engine or pull one from a yard
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:02 PM   #4
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Yes you should be able to get a good used one from a salvage yard, some even offer warranty's on their low mileage engines. Example:


1997 FORD MUSTANG Engine
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:08 PM   #5
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6 grand will buy you a pretty badass push rod engine!

If you are on a budget, you should be able to get a reliable engine for much less than that...
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:10 PM   #6
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What condition is the 68 engine in?
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:12 PM   #7
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Scratching my head trying to figure out how your going to pass smog if you go that route.
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:14 PM   #8
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Scratching my head trying to figure out how your going to pass smog if you go that route.
I think that his car is a 95 and has a push rod engine.
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:15 PM   #9
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Smog is not an issue for me and it's great condition perfect almost, new cam Elderbrock carburetor and Elderbrock heads


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Old 04-27-2015, 03:18 PM   #10
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It should bolt right up!

What sort of advice do you need?
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:29 PM   #11
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If you are going to go with a carburetor setup than you are going to have to fab up the linkage for the throttle and most of the electronics. But sounds like a fun project if you have the time!
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:37 PM   #12
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You can get a reman'ed short block for around $900 to $1000.


This guy just got a explorer long block at the Upick for $400 and it looks damn decent. He just slapped it into his Ranger.
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:41 PM   #13
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Those cars are actually very simple to swap over to a carburetor. The throttle linkage and fuel line, and some wiring, is basically it.
I think that there is something that needs to be done for the speedometer to work also.
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:43 PM   #14
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I got an entire explorer with a running 5.0 in it for FREE. Look around man. They aren't beat on, then just do a cam swap and you've already picked up GT40 heads in the deal as well as a better intake manifold
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:46 PM   #15
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5.0 in a Ranger that is another swap that I wanted to do lol!
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:48 PM   #16
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5.0 in a Ranger that is another swap that I wanted to do lol!

That's what I'm doing with mine
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:50 PM   #17
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Fuel injected 347 stroker...


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Old 04-27-2015, 04:14 PM   #18
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Advice

So what I'm asking I guess is for links to parts (not tools) I'll need for this job, will my tranny fit, I think I'lll need new motor mounts and keep in mind I'm new to this but I'm determined!
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Old 04-27-2015, 04:28 PM   #19
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So what I'm asking I guess is for links to parts (not tools) I'll need for this job, will my tranny fit, I think I'lll need new motor mounts and keep in mind I'm new to this but I'm determined!
I'm pretty certain that everything will bolt right up to that engine. It is the same small block engine that they have used for 30 years. Any parts that you need to replace, such as motor mounts, should be the same as the parts that are currently on your car. You can even reuse the fuel injection if you want.
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:10 PM   #20
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okay then what do you think? The engine has a carb setup on it rn but i just invested in throttle body, MAF and 24lb injectors and gt40 intake manifold... im thinking its easier to just go carb set up and ill probably like it better
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:36 PM   #21
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okay then what do you think? The engine has a carb setup on it rn but i just invested in throttle body, MAF and 24lb injectors and gt40 intake manifold... im thinking its easier to just go carb set up and ill probably like it better

Your not going to pass smog unless you keep the fuel injection. I promise
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:48 PM   #22
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Since you said that emissions testing is not a concern in your area, it's up to you whether you want to go carbureted or EFI.
The EFI will be "plug and play", and the carburetor will require some extra work.
If you think that you will like the carb setup better, do that! Once the engine is installed, you can always switch back to EFI if you don't like the carb... As long as you don't hack up the wiring harnesses.
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:49 PM   #23
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As I said before, I do not need to pass smog, it is not an obstacle lol
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:01 PM   #24
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Okay, smog aside then I still think EFI is the way to go especially since you already have some of those goodies. But I guess it depends on how you want to use it.
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:19 PM   #25
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I would stay efi. But that's me and you can find a explorer for cheap any where from 500-1000 smashed or not.


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Old 04-28-2015, 02:31 PM   #26
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Hopefully some of the information in the following link will help.Bookmark the site while you're there because its got tons of valuable tech listed.

EFI to Carburetor Conversion Summarized Procedure
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Old 04-28-2015, 02:38 PM   #27
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I agree, EFI is the way to go especially because your car is already set up that way. Less PITA for sure in the long run. Fuel pump, wiring, cabling, fuel lines, gages, and ECM are alll expecting EFI. EFI is more efficient and no adjustments really.
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:05 PM   #28
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First off, you do not redo a 68 Mustang "right" on a "budget". Not happening. 2nd, the person quoting you 6Gs for a rebuild should never get any of your business again unless you are asking for a "top of the line" unit and then 6Gs would be suspiciously cheap honestly. If they want 6Gs for a basic performance motor and install I would ask them if they'll throw in a free reacharound too at that price...


This whole thing with a new clutch and some minor longevity upgrades to the motor will cost you under $1k and take a weekend if you have all the parts and a helper.


Stay EFI, find an explorer/mountaineer motor. Remove the truck cam, install your GT cam, get a set of $100 valve springs and install those, swap over all your accessories, do shorty headers while its all out, literally everything will bolt right back up and you'll pick up 55rwhp in the process.


Should cost you under $1k easy doing it all yourself. Little more with a good set of FRPP shorty headers or longtubes. The pushrod/trans assembly removes very easily as one piece with the hood removed and a budget cherry picker. Do the clutch while its all out too, a good Luk Gold replacement clutch for $125 is more than fine.


I know it sounds daunting but its really not all that hard. The pushrod is SUPER simple and there is not very much to really detach from it before its ready to pull. Especially once the intake is off you can see everything. The AC compressor does not even have to be unooked, just unbolt it and lay it off to the side.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:59 PM   #29
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I just pulled my motor and trans and took 1 hour a day and only took a week an a half to complete the engine and a day to put back in,put new push rods, timing chain, lifters oil pump (high flow ),water pump,every gasket,clutch,and harmonic balancer,and coolant hoses. for around 600.with clutch. all my self that's with a shop discount on parts.so really under a thousand for sure and that's Canadian prices also. Listen to Scotty. He knows what he's talking about.


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Old 04-28-2015, 09:16 PM   #30
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I only pretend to know what I'm talking about...


Lol with the pushrods I am pretty good. Easy to rebuild, STILL low mileage 5.0s in JYs if you look and the thing removes and installs very easily. Lots of room to work in the engine bay unlike the 4.6L.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:25 PM   #31
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Scotty........you're my hero

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Old 04-28-2015, 10:23 PM   #32
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Hahahah. Ya I have found they are pretty simple myself. Learnt a lot just by taking mine out and taking it apart. A lot easier when you have no ac ps and smog though. I just run a alt in mine.


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Old 04-29-2015, 06:44 AM   #33
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Yeah removing all that stuff and putting the battery in the trunk and a tubular K makes the front end feel ridiculously better. Like "oh this is what no nose dive feels like".
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Old 04-30-2015, 01:51 AM   #34
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Smile soo

the 68 motor was sold, I picked up a 90k mile 95 302 motor today, I went to see 6 mountaneers and 4 explorers and 3 of them couldnt find the keys to the car, 2 had metal in the oil and 1 turned out to be selling just the block. So my "new" is on the stand at home. I will be switching to performance radiator, hoses, oil filter. I have some cobra headers and e303 cam, and puttting my CAI, 24lb injectors, 70mm Tb and gt40 upper and lower intake back on the new motor. If I can find some valve springs. I dont have the $$ for anything else this is literally what I could scrape together to get my daily driver running again
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:42 AM   #35
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Looks like you are headed in the right direction, keep us posted on how it turns out, or if you run into any issues, Good Luck!
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