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Old 06-07-2015, 05:32 PM   #1
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Weird problem

Okay so I just finished up everything on my build and doing the first initial start up I went to hook up the battery and the car tried to start when I put the cables on the battery... I then replaced the starter solenoid and everything seems to be hooked up right and when I go to turn the key there's absolutely nothing. I can't turn the lights on like absolutely no power at all. So I'm stumped! Any clue? I hooked up a jump box to the battery just in case it was dead but did no good


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Old 06-07-2015, 05:33 PM   #2
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Weird problem

How long has it been sitting? Did you check the battery charge percentage?


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Old 06-07-2015, 05:37 PM   #3
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It's been about 5 months that's it's been sitting and the battery registers fine. Weird thing is when I hooked the cables up the battery was fine to try to start the car. After that I replaced the starter solenoid and I can hook up the cables and it doesn't try to start the car anymore but I get no power


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Old 06-09-2015, 09:55 AM   #4
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would definitely check all your grounds
#1)Battery - to engine block/timing cover
#2)Rear of driver side cylinder head to firewall
#3)EEC ground-small gauge black wire attached to fender apron to the right of the starter solenoid.Disconnect its connecter, clean,dab some dielectric grease in it and plug it back in.This link shows a picture of it.It has a round connecter.
(Ground Photo by timewarped1972 | Photobucket)
Your ignition switch could also be bad,causing the issue.They're notorious for going out.Check all fuses related to the battery, ignition system, etc.You've also got several fusible links that come off the starter solenoid which need to be checked.You can also test the ignition switch to see if its functioning properly.The fuses & fusible links shown in the diagram below need to be tested to make sure they're getting power.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...itchWiring.gif
The image below shows the sequence of events that occur when you turn the key on and when you turn the key to start.Check the EEC relay,above the ecm behind the pass side kick panel,to make sure its functioning properly. If its defective, certain components won't get power.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...itchWiring.gif
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:21 AM   #5
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Yeah it's killing me not being able to start it after everything. But it already replaced the ignition module last year so il have to check all the fortunes and stuff


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Old 06-09-2015, 01:01 PM   #6
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Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1433872899.954237.jpg
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:22 AM   #7
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Are you sure the wiring is run correctly on the solenoid.If that picture was taken while standing on the passenger side,you've got the wires backwards on the posts.The cable that runs to the starter should be attached to the large post on the right.The small gauge red wire goes to the small post on the top.The positive battery cable and bulk wires get attached to the large post on the left side of the solenoid.Or am I looking at the picture upside down??
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:33 AM   #8
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When you view the picture below,just ignore the wire that goes to the 3g alternator, but your solenoid should be wired like shown in the diagram. The solenoid needs to be clocked slightly ccw relative to how its shown in the diagram.So starter cable on right post,red/blue wire on small top post and remaining wires/pos battery cable on left post if you're looking at the solenoid while standing on the passenger side.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:11 AM   #9
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Well I did a wire tuck so that picture is on the inside of the driver side fender and I just swapped everything over from the other the same so I don't know why nothing is getting power now


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Old 06-11-2015, 10:14 AM   #10
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If you're positive its wired correctly, use a multimeter to test all the fusible links and make sure each one is getting 12 volts.Test each fusible link by piercing the wire with the multimeter probe.Test the solenoid side of the link then test the firewall side of the link.If the solenoid side of the link doesn't read 12 volts,check its connection for corrosion or a loose fit.If that's OK,the wire has a open(break) in it.If it reads 12 volts then you pierce the wire on the firewall side of the fusible link & it reads 0 or infinity, the fusible link is blown.If both sides of the link read 12 volts,you're good.Have you checked your fuses yet??Maybe one blew due to the solenoid being bad.If you're not getting any power to the headlights, etc its gotta be a corroded/loose/broken ground wire or a fuse issue.
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:42 PM   #11
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Where is the ground that goes to the firewall?


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Old 06-11-2015, 03:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty 5.0 View Post
Where is the ground that goes to the firewall?


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There should be a ground strap mounted to the studded bolt that holds the thermactor crossover pipe to the backside of both cylinder heads.It should be mounted to the rear/driver side cylinder head by a studded bolt,but it can also be mounted to the passenger side cylinder head or engine block too.The hego ground wire can also be ran to this same bolt on the rear side of the cylinder head.The links below will help.Its called the secondary ground & its the most important ground for your gauges,interior/exterior lights,etc....
Make sure both attachment points at the head and firewall are sanded or cleaned in order to provide good metal to metal contact.


http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,5....html#msg48818

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Old 06-11-2015, 05:06 PM   #13
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These are pics of the secondary ground attached to the firewall and rear side of the cylinder head.These pics were taken while the engine was out.As you can see,its mounted to the firewall,below the throttle cable and below/to the left of the clutch cable.It may be slightly hard to see because of the strap and bolt having paint on them.This strap is getting replaced before the engine goes back in.Hope this helps.
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Old 06-11-2015, 05:07 PM   #14
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I have trickflow heads so there's nothing on the back of them but thermactor plugs. And another funny thing is that HEGO ground has never been strapped down to anything since I got the car a few years ago. I tried strapping it down but it still didn't do anything


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Old 06-11-2015, 05:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty 5.0 View Post
Well I did a wire tuck so that picture is on the inside of the driver side fender and I just swapped everything over from the other the same so I don't know why nothing is getting power now

Did you sand the inside of the fender down to bare metal before you mounted the starter solenoid to the fender??If not,that could cause an issue.The solenoid is case grounded.That means,the solenoid gets grounded by its metal back side touching a bare metal portion of the fender.If the fender has paint/primer on it where the solenoid is touching it,it won't ground.It doesn't have an actual ground wire attached to it for its ground reference, like other electrical components do.I suggest removing the solenoid,sand the fender to bare metal then reinstall. See if that cures your no power issue.

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Old 06-11-2015, 05:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty 5.0 View Post
I have trickflow heads so there's nothing on the back of them but thermactor plugs. And another funny thing is that HEGO ground has never been strapped down to anything since I got the car a few years ago. I tried strapping it down but it still didn't do anything


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The HEGO ground wire is used for your o2 sensors,so leaving it disconnected can cause o2 sensor codes and other o2 related issues that you might not be aware of because it might/might not cause driveability problems if disconnected. Mount it to a header bolt,engine block bolt or intake bolt,just as long as its grounded to the engine somehow.Make sure the area is free of paint and grease.
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Old 06-11-2015, 06:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty 5.0 View Post
I have trickflow heads so there's nothing on the back of them but thermactor plugs. And another funny thing is that HEGO ground has never been strapped down to anything since I got the car a few years ago. I tried strapping it down but it still didn't do anything


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A bad/open hego ground circuit will cause lean readings from the O2 sensors.When o2 sensors read lean,it causes the ecm to richen the fuel trim in an attempt to bring the AFR(air fuel ratio)back to normal.Since the lean signal is really a false signal due to the open HEGO ground circuit,the ecm Richens fuel in the system when it really doesn't need any extra fuel.Then the converters can start loading up on raw fuel that isn't getting burned,etc etc.So the HEGO ground wire is indeed important even if you don't readily notice problems.
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Old 06-11-2015, 06:48 PM   #18
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The picture you have of that ground wire to fire I don't have that wire anywhere at all on my car ivories everywhere


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Old 06-11-2015, 08:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
A bad/open hego ground circuit will cause lean readings from the O2 sensors.When o2 sensors read lean,it causes the ecm to richen the fuel trim in an attempt to bring the AFR(air fuel ratio)back to normal.Since the lean signal is really a false signal due to the open HEGO ground circuit,the ecm Richens fuel in the system when it really doesn't need any extra fuel.Then the converters can start loading up on raw fuel that isn't getting burned,etc etc.So the HEGO ground wire is indeed important even if you don't readily notice problems.

Hey I fixed it, thanks for all the help man I really appreciate it!


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Old 06-12-2015, 06:56 AM   #20
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What was the cause exactly, so anyone reading this thread for future reference will know how to solve the same issue?? Thanks
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:33 AM   #21
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Ima a fool lol I had the positive cable and the starter cable on the wrong posts. After looking at it it was easy to see


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Old 06-13-2015, 04:51 PM   #22
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I knew it looked like they were on the wrong posts.Its a good thing you looked it over again.Eventhough its mounted inside the fender & basically facing a different direction, the positive battery cable and bulk wires should still be on the left post of the solenoid. Now you're good to go.
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Old 06-13-2015, 04:55 PM   #23
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Yeah now the new problem is the upper bolt for the thermostat housing is broke in the intake and iv tried heat and extractors and everything to get it out but it won't come out so its looks like i might be needing a new intake


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Old 06-15-2015, 10:38 AM   #24
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Damn that sucks man.I would use a punch to make a little dimple in the center of the broken bolt,then use a small drill bit to start a hole so you can keep the hole dead center in the bolt.Then use a larger bit to drill the broken bolt out,tap the hole then helicoil it.The thermostat housing bolts dont get torqued very much so a helicoil will hold just fine.R U running a TFS intake since youve got TFS heads??If so,that broken bolt is a costly pain in the a**,if you cant get the bolt hole fixed.You can always go to the pull-a-part junkyard and pick up a 96-97.5 Explorer intake for cheap vs spending $200+ bucks on a new lower intake.If you do take this option into consideration,keep in mind the 97.5-2001 Explorer intake doesnt have the hole in it for the act sensor.You will have to drill and tap the boss thats on the intake,to the right of intake runner #5.If you attempt drilling the broken bolt out while the intake is still installed, make sure you can get the bit at the perfect angle so the hole isnt crooked.Good luck with the repair.
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XE276HR .544" .544"
Flowtech 1 3/4"
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:01 AM   #25
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I did heli coil it but when I was tightening it down the head broke off with not much force at all... I have an edelbrock performer rpm intake so I'm just going to get a new lower which luckily I found because there's a few other bolt holes that are messed up anyways from the previous person.


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Old 06-15-2015, 02:00 PM   #26
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Well it sounds like you needed one anyways so no harm no foul.
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