1988 Gt getting hot - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-16-2015, 01:12 PM   #1
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1988 Gt getting hot

Not sure what's going on, I just drove it about 11 miles, got to where I was going and when I got there it started to get hot. my electric fan was kicking in but not really helping, and something was leaking out of this hole and dropping on the header. anyone have a clue what's going on?Click image for larger version

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Old 06-16-2015, 01:40 PM   #2
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Heater Core maybe been a while since I looked under the hood on a 88!
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:35 PM   #3
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That hole is where the moisture comes out of the evaporater core drip pan for the ac.Did you have the ac on while driving the car??If so,its normal for water to drip from that hole.If coolant is coming out of the hole and you didn't have the ac running,Jbones observation sounds more likely.Check your passenger side floorboard also to see if its wet.If it is,the heater core is definitely leaking.
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:08 PM   #4
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was it getting hot while driving or sitting still? how does your coolant look and what is the level at
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Old 06-16-2015, 09:10 PM   #5
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That hole is where the moisture comes out of the evaporater core drip pan for the ac.Did you have the ac on while driving the car??If so,its normal for water to drip from that hole.If coolant is coming out of the hole and you didn't have the ac running,Jbones observation sounds more likely.Check your passenger side floorboard also to see if its wet.If it is,the heater core is definitely leaking.
AC was running full blast the whole time. Was running around 190 then when i got where i was going i noticed it was just above 200 and slowly climbing. I read on another forum that it was something to do with the AC having too much pressure. i took it for a drive a little after and it was getting hot without the AC on. letting it cool down overnight and checking the coolant tomorrow. Could just be that
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:23 AM   #6
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Any other issues are you smelling a sweet smell inside of the car, or is the windshield fogging up around the vents? If so that will be the heater core leaking. Hopefully it is just a bit low on fluid, since it started getting hot again with the Air Con off! May be time for a new thermostat and a radiator flush.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:21 PM   #7
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Pull ur thermostat and put it in boiling water to make sure it works. Then do a radiator flush. If ur water pump is making any noises it could be going out. Wet passenger floor= heater core.


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Old 06-17-2015, 08:16 PM   #8
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Don't let it get too hot bro. Other than that, anything water related or overheating can be traced and fixed fairly easily. These guys have given great advice. Check heater core, thermostat, and water pump. One of them is most likely the culprit. Unless your low on coolant and or its filthy dirty.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:48 PM   #9
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Check coolant level & fill
(2)start engine & let it idle for 10-15 minutes while watching gauge
(3)once the gauge is close to the normal mark,grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it to see if its firm
(4)once the gauge gets to/goes above 190°,squeeze the hose again to see if its soft
(5)if hose is soft,the thermostat is opening.If the hose remains firm and the temp gauge continues to rise,the thermostat is stuck closed & needs replacement.
One way to check the water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose after the thermostat has opened.You should feel a surge of coolant which will cause the hose to expand as you're releasing the hose.Remove the radiator cap(wear gloves/wrap towel around & over radiator opening/relieve pressure slowly before completely removing the cap)look inside the radiator at the ends of the tubes,coolant should be flowing freely from those tubes.If both conditions listed above are occurring, the water pump is pumping.Now would be a good time to flush the cooling system, if its been awhile since you've done it.
I like to remove the thermostat while flushing so the cleaning mixture is constantly flowing unobstructed through the engine, heads,intake,radiator,etc.(Buy 2 thermostat gaskets so youll have one to use for the flushing process then another one when youre finished.You dont have to remove the thermostat when flushing the system,its just the way I prefer to do it)
Drain the system,fill with a 50/50 mixture of Simple Green & water,install cap,take it for a 15-20 minute drive.Flush/fill with water/idle for 5 minutes/drain/fill with water/idle for 5 minutes/drain/fill with 50 50 mixture antifreeze & water
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:58 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
Check coolant level & fill
(2)start engine & let it idle for 10-15 minutes while watching gauge
(3)once the gauge is close to the normal mark,grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it to see if its firm
(4)once the gauge gets to/goes above 190°,squeeze the hose again to see if its soft
(5)if hose is soft,the thermostat is opening.If the hose remains firm and the temp gauge continues to rise,the thermostat is stuck closed & needs replacement.
One way to check the water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose after the thermostat has opened.You should feel a surge of coolant which will cause the hose to expand as you're releasing the hose.Remove the radiator cap(wear gloves/wrap towel around & over radiator opening/relieve pressure slowly before completely removing the cap)look inside the radiator at the ends of the tubes,coolant should be flowing freely from those tubes.If both conditions listed above are occurring, the water pump is pumping.Now would be a good time to flush the cooling system, if its been awhile since you've done it.
I like to remove the thermostat while flushing so the cleaning mixture is constantly flowing unobstructed through the engine, heads,intake,radiator,etc.(Buy 2 thermostat gaskets so youll have one to use for the flushing process then another one when youre finished.You dont have to remove the thermostat when flushing the system,its just the way I prefer to do it)
Drain the system,fill with a 50/50 mixture of Simple Green & water,install cap,take it for a 15-20 minute drive.Flush/fill with water/idle for 5 minutes/drain/fill with water/idle for 5 minutes/drain/fill with 50 50 mixture antifreeze & water
We recharged the A/C with R-134a instead of R12. All we have to do is flush the system and it should be good to go, right?
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:30 PM   #11
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Did you notice if it was getting hot mainly when the car was at idle or at all times??If it only got hot during idle or when the car was at a red light,the clutch fan might be wore out.If it got hot at all times,some other cooling system part is to blame.An undercharged ac system will usually just cause the compressor to kick on/off repetitively,rather than causing the engine to overheat.If the compressor was able to accept more freon,it was low on freon & that wouldn't cause an overheating condition.If you're not the original owner,the previous owner must have converted it over from r12 to r134 already, otherwise the recharge fitting between r12 & r134 would be incompatible.If something was wrong with the compressor (causing it to begin the seizing process)that could possibly put more strain/parasitic drag on the engine, causing an increase in engine temps,but I still think the overheating issue is due to a cooling system part.
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XE276HR .544" .544"
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:18 PM   #12
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I am having the same issue. Mine is coming from that hole and of course passenger and driver side flooring. Vehicle parked on slant driver side is lower and since it is not going to be DD. I am just going to bypass it for now. It is time consuming maybe about 2-3hrs, but not really that hard from what I can see. I haven't done it on a stang, but I have on my 98 Expedition. I have also already taken a good amount of my other stang apart so it isn't that bad, but once you get back there that's when the real fun happens. Good luck on your heater core.
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