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Old 06-21-2015, 03:56 PM   #1
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Manifold torque specs

Replacing my intake manifold gaskets I have the clicking going on under my good right where the heads are at. I did some research I have the symptoms of an exhaust leak. Which torque wrench would I need and does anyone know the order sequence and lbs for bolts?


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Old 06-22-2015, 10:51 AM   #2
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Exhaust manifold torque is 18-24ftlbs.Start in the center,working in a criss cross pattern,then work your way outwards.Don't connect the hpipe bolts until you've got the manifold bolts torqued.This will prevent the manifold from having any unwanted strain on it,which can sometimes lead to an improper seal.If you do try to torque the manifold bolts while the hpipe is already attached,I usually start torquing the bolts from front to rear,since the hpipe will have the manifold in a bind.ARP or other brand header bolts,that have some type of locking mechanism,work much better than stock bolts do.They won't loosen up like stock bolts.A torque wrench isn't absolutely necessary, you can get them tight enough by feel.If youre dead set on using one,you can rent one at AUTOZONE, if you don't plan on needing one again.It is a good tool to own though.Did you or did you not use one for the intake bolts??A torque wrench IS MANDATORY for intake bolts.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:37 PM   #3
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You can google the torque specs and pattern of these intakes. If you mean exhaust, then yeah follow what wbrockstar said.

As for a torque wrench. If you don't have one you should not be doing anything to your car except oil changes. A basic cheapie from Harbor Freight is like $20 that goes up to 80ft lbs or Jegs sells one that goes to 120 for not too much more.

I used the stage 8 locking bolts on my 5.0 and they work spectacularly well. I will be using them again on my modular even though those come with studs. I don't want to have to do those more than once and since the motor is out of the car it's stupid easy.

Stage 8s have collars that sit against the primary so the bolts cannot back up at all. Trick is to go to minimum torque and see if the collar lines up. If it does, great, if not then slowly turn the bolt tighter until you can get the collar on.

Another good thing to use is Percy's dead soft aluminum header gaskets. Blow proof and re-usable. IIRC they still make them for 5.0s but its been awhile.

edit: Remember also the intake you can't just torque it and forget it. You have to go along and re-torque the lower manifold bolts after a few heat cycles as they can loosen up. I usually did a re-torque after the first cycle and then re-torques after the next few and then a final check at 100 miles and then 500 miles.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:46 PM   #4
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Thanks man doesn't matter now. Was on my way to work, going thru the intersection some old lady wasn't paying attention pulled out in front of me...


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Im not a happy camper right now...


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Old 06-22-2015, 08:22 PM   #5
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Wow **** man... hope her insurance pays enough to replace it...


Ugh, federal gov't needs to pass a law requiring road tests every 3 or 4 years for EVERYONE.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:16 PM   #6
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Wow **** man... hope her insurance pays enough to replace it...


Ugh, federal gov't needs to pass a law requiring road tests every 3 or 4 years for EVERYONE.
4 times this year where my siste lives elderly people have driven into a business on the main road in town.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:23 PM   #7
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That business needs to move, or have a brick wall in front of it...


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Old 06-22-2015, 09:34 PM   #8
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Yea that same intersection we have had numerous numerous accidents. That intersection is a death trap and I definitely agree with u Scotty. That woman wasn't paying any attention at all, I saw her and she had came to a dead stop, my light was green anyways so I kept going. She pulled out anyways idk if she thought she could beat me crossing lanes or what but major fail and I hope her insurance company doesn't think I'm going to settle for a bull**** check. My only worry is its an older vehicle.


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Old 06-24-2015, 02:21 PM   #9
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Don't worry that should buff out.

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Old 06-24-2015, 02:28 PM   #10
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Lmao I am really considering salvaging it cuz I was never gonna sell it and I've put so much into that car..


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Old 06-24-2015, 03:42 PM   #11
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If it's totaled, buy it back and fix it. Hopefully it isn't, but that looks like a hard hit. That sucks man hopefully it can return to the roads...


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Old 06-24-2015, 05:12 PM   #12
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Looked at it today it's done. Crankshaft is prolly killed. My dash is pushed back like it could've ended up in my lap. My fan and radiator are now 1 big mess. My tires and rims are surprisingly in good condition. And my louvers lol..


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Old 06-24-2015, 05:18 PM   #13
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Damn. I'm sorry man; hopefully you can get her back. Are you alright? No injuries?


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Old 06-24-2015, 05:25 PM   #14
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Yea a broken heart that's it lol. And a headache


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Old 06-24-2015, 05:26 PM   #15
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Sad to see a fox looking like that. But it did what it was supposed to do. Crumple up and absorb the impact. Keep us up to date on how things turn out for you and what you end up doing for a replacement.


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Old 06-26-2015, 12:27 PM   #16
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Remove what you can and hurry.

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1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 06-26-2015, 01:35 PM   #17
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Yea I'm getting another fox. Looking at one with a 351w. And I'm going to buy my car back and use it for parts. Especially my tires and rims surprisingly they aren't damaged at all


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Old 06-26-2015, 01:39 PM   #18
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Yea I'm getting another fox. Looking at one with a 351w. And I'm going to buy my car back and use it for parts. Especially my tires and rims surprisingly they aren't damaged at all


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Whatever you don't use on your new one that obviously isn't damaged can be sold on eBay as well. You would be surprised what half that stuff can go for. Wiring harnesses, trim, plastic, knobs, glass, ect. You will easily make a grand or more with little effort. Then once it's picked clean, you take it to the metal scrap yard and probably get 2-300 bucks for the remainder of the car


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Old 06-26-2015, 01:42 PM   #19
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Agreed. Anything under the hood I'll check and post pics just to make sure it's good enough to sell.


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Old 06-26-2015, 07:19 PM   #20
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Hell buy a real clean 4 banger that some old person had and they just died/went into assisted living and its getting sold in the estate. Swap all the V8 stuff into it and roll.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:36 PM   #21
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Scotty you are all heart LOL.

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391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:40 PM   #22
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^^^ HAHA! Preying on grandma for his next project. 😬 so funny. Also true


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Old 06-26-2015, 08:17 PM   #23
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Hey... that's how I found my PI pullout. 2005 Grand Marquis with 38k on it. Part of an estate sale, they aren't worth more than $5k in mint condition and it needed brakes/suspension/exhaust so the family just sold it to a yard. Got the 38k PI motor for $575 delivered.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:32 PM   #24
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I'm debating that too. Like I said though everything is depending on what I can save from under my hood and i really loved my setup and want to repeat it.


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Old 06-26-2015, 08:34 PM   #25
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You've got a known quantity donor car. Use it.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:36 PM   #26
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Possibilities are limitless now I jus gotta be patient. I love how insurance company called me early this morning and I returned the call, seeing as it's Friday they dodged me all day so now gotta wait until Monday to see what kind of figures they wanna throw at me


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---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ----------

Quote:
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You've got a known quantity donor car. Use it.

Normally what would it cost me to buy a wrecked 91 back?


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Old 06-26-2015, 09:51 PM   #27
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No idea these days. Can't be a super lot TBTH...
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:47 PM   #28
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Either way you can still bargain with them.

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391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:07 AM   #29
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I'll see what happens. I think I can make back what I spend to buy it back plus more anyways..


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