Engine bogs down over 2500 RPM - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-28-2015, 03:57 AM   #1
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Engine bogs down over 2500 RPM

I have messed with timing, did full tune up, new IAC, new throttle position sensor. What should I try next?


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Old 06-28-2015, 11:26 PM   #2
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Could be a fuel issue , clogged fuel filter .. I'd check your fuel psi at idle and driving at wot.

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Old 06-29-2015, 02:02 AM   #3
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Check, all good. Brand new fuel pump, filter and injectors.


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Old 06-29-2015, 05:49 AM   #4
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Was this a problem before or did this just start?

What do you have done to the car?

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Old 06-29-2015, 09:17 AM   #5
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All changes as stated before. No it started just recently.


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Old 06-29-2015, 09:23 AM   #6
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Checked for vacuum leaks?
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:32 PM   #7
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You stated that "you messed with timing" but to be on the safe side,use witeout & draw a line on the balancer at the 10° & 14° mark,drive the car or let it idle til it reaches operating temp,pull the spout plug & set timing to the 10°,12° or 14° mark.Don't set it above 10° unless you're running 91+ octane fuel.After you adjust timing,turn the car off,do a koeo test then start the car & do a koer test to see if any trouble codes are present.You dont need a scanner to pull codes,use the components and steps shown in the link below.The cel doesn't have to be on in order for codes to be present.If no codes are present,that will rule out a sensor,EEC-IV or wiring issue as a possible cause.The 10 pin connectors (aka: salt & pepper shakers)can also cause driveability issues.The tps,act & ect sensors,the injectors,vref,signal return & vpwr wires,etc are all part of the salt & pepper shakers,so I would definately do the maintenance procedure on them since so many important circuits/sensors depend on their connections being tight and corrosion free.The links below will show you the maintenance procedure.
Its also a good idea to pull codes after youve installed new components to make sure the ecm accepted the components with no issues.If the problem isn't sensor,EEC-IV or wiring related, you can start trouble shooting the mechanical side.Your fuel system seems to be in good order since you've replaced every component except the regulator. However new components can also be defective too so don't rule them out.Let the car idle while you remove the vacuum hose from the regulator. It should not have fuel inside of it & fuel should also not be coming out of the regulator vacuum port either.If either above test fails,the regulator is bad.Make sure the tps reads .8-1.0 volts with koeo.Its a myth that the tps has to be set exactly to .98-.99 volts.As long as it reads between .8-1.0 volts & no tps codes are present,youre good.Make sure the inside of the throttle body is clean because carbon buildup can cause the throttle plate to hang up around its edge.Check for vacuum leaks too.I like to remove the tip of a heldheld propane torch,attach a small piece of vacuum hose(1-2' long)to it,let the engine idle then run the hose alongside every gasket,vacuum hose and vacuum operated component.If the engine suddenly idles up,you've found the leak.Check the egr valve too making sure its functioning properly and not sticking open.
Salt & Pepper (10-pin) Connectors Fix
DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:36 PM   #8
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Could be a faulty disb. .. my uncles 95 GT had similar issues .. he replaced almost everything .. ended up being the disb. / timing issue.

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Old 06-29-2015, 11:03 PM   #9
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still running cats?thats what it sounds like
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:28 PM   #10
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Did you adjust the bleeder screw for the IAC . 2 turns!
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:51 PM   #11
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I'm thinking of replacing the distributor next. I was hoping that it was not due to the cost. Let you know what happens.


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Old 07-02-2015, 11:32 AM   #12
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Keep it civil...

Bogging could be a ton of things. Not IAC but could be the dizzy for sure, could be a fuel issue, lots of things... More troubleshooting is needed. This is why ppl should have on board fuel pressure gauges imo.

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