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Old 07-06-2015, 02:26 PM   #1
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93 Cobra 302

I have a question (since I'm new to Mustangs). I'm looking at purchasing a complete 302 out of 93 Cobra. We're these motors any different than the motor that would have come in the GT or LX. I know the Cobra's had GT40 heads and intake, but is a anything different in the lower end?

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:52 PM   #2
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Same bottom end. Heads/intake/cam are different. The Cobra cam is actually milder than the GT cam, they made up for it with Crane 1.7 rockers.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:08 PM   #3
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How are 302 blocks at handling horsepower (400 plus range)? I'm wondering if this would be a good motor to build or find a stronger block.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:12 PM   #4
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What are your expectations and your budget would be the question.

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Old 07-06-2015, 09:06 PM   #5
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Block is good for 500hp give or take. The internals of these motors are not the weak point, the rods/pistons/crank will stay together longer than the actual block will. If you are going to do a build, go 351 based or go with an aftermarket block.


For a good GT40 motor, drop it in, do the fuel system and slap a Vortech on it and tune it to 450hp and call it a day.


If you still want to do a buildup, you'll have a lot of time and aggravation and honestly you'll save money doing it right the first time going with a www.fordstrokers.com 408 setup.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:10 PM   #6
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Would you leave it stock (no rebuild either) and put a supercharger on it? My goal is to go supercharged. The motor had 117k miles on it
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:17 PM   #7
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Do a leakdown and compression test. I can't imagine a well taken care of pushrod at 117k is going to have issues. But you never know.


I'd do the valvesprings and a cam swap with something like a $100 used B cam and supercharge it.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Do a leakdown and compression test. I can't imagine a well taken care of pushrod at 117k is going to have issues. But you never know.


I'd do the valvesprings and a cam swap with something like a $100 used B cam and supercharge it.

Thanks I appreciate all the info
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:32 PM   #9
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I'm a little late to this thread and will just say that the 88-95 OE 302 blocks were the lightest of all of the 302's. The stock OE rotating assembly is good for 400/450 crank HP............much more and you start splitting the block.
I'm not sure what you putting this in and at the risk of stepping on anyones toes the best way to go would be with a 351w motor..............1971 to mid year 1974 as they had a bigger/stronger main web area and were almost 10lbs heavier than the later 74 and up blocks because of the extra material around the web.
I built a 408 for my Maverick and with a single 850 and managed 650 crank HP at 6800 rpm and peak torque of 544 at 5700 rpm. Building a street 408(bored/stroked 351) with 450/500hp is pretty simple and not expensive.
One thing to remember is it's not about HP but about torque.................a built 331 can make 500hp (you are right on the edge of splitting the block) and you will have to spin it to around 7500 rpm............and the torque will be around 400 or a little over. Build a 408 and spend less money and 1000 rpm less and make the same HP.....................the torque will be over 500lbft at about the same rpm as the 331's 400lbft.
Just a thought.
One other thing is that with the early 351w block can actually be machined for 4blt mains and not have to use a stud girdle plus it will cost you 60% less than an aftermarket block................the 302 block will have to remain 2blt and you will have to use a stud girdle and really stay in the 450 hp or less for it to be reliable...........IMHO
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:13 AM   #10
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Thanks for that info. That really helps out. One question though...I still want to run an EFI set-up (I have a 92 GT). Will parts bolt on to an older 351w block?
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:34 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
I'm a little late to this thread and will just say that the 88-95 OE 302 blocks were the lightest of all of the 302's. The stock OE rotating assembly is good for 400/450 crank HP............much more and you start splitting the block.
I'm not sure what you putting this in and at the risk of stepping on anyones toes the best way to go would be with a 351w motor..............1971 to mid year 1974 as they had a bigger/stronger main web area and were almost 10lbs heavier than the later 74 and up blocks because of the extra material around the web.
I built a 408 for my Maverick and with a single 850 and managed 650 crank HP at 6800 rpm and peak torque of 544 at 5700 rpm. Building a street 408(bored/stroked 351) with 450/500hp is pretty simple and not expensive.
One thing to remember is it's not about HP but about torque.................a built 331 can make 500hp (you are right on the edge of splitting the block) and you will have to spin it to around 7500 rpm............and the torque will be around 400 or a little over. Build a 408 and spend less money and 1000 rpm less and make the same HP.....................the torque will be over 500lbft at about the same rpm as the 331's 400lbft.
Just a thought.
One other thing is that with the early 351w block can actually be machined for 4blt mains and not have to use a stud girdle plus it will cost you 60% less than an aftermarket block................the 302 block will have to remain 2blt and you will have to use a stud girdle and really stay in the 450 hp or less for it to be reliable...........IMHO

You forgot the 69/70 (C9/D0) blocks. Those are even stronger than the 71-74 blocks with the highest nickel content and the thickest webbing. That said, any 351 block is good for 700+ to the tires no problem even the newer thinner roller blocks.

I always recommend to ppl starting from scratch to go 351 based. Hardly any more money and the returns are ridiculously more. A mild street 408 will make 500ft lbs at a low RPM without really trying too hard on pump gas.

Only thing with the 351 blocks you have to watch is there is an issue with some of the newer blocks and cracking under the cam bearings. You really can't see it until you pull the bearings and physically check. This is why I'd make sure to get a block from Woody at Fordstrokers. And the rotating assy too. Hell, might as well just have him build the whole thing. They aren't cheap, but neither is DIY doing it correctly and having a pro as good as Woody build your motor is something that is worth paying for IMO.
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:20 AM   #12
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You forgot the 69/70 (C9/D0) blocks. Those are even stronger than the 71-74 blocks with the highest nickel content and the thickest webbing. That said, any 351 block is good for 700+ to the tires no problem even the newer thinner roller blocks.

I always recommend to ppl starting from scratch to go 351 based. Hardly any more money and the returns are ridiculously more. A mild street 408 will make 500ft lbs at a low RPM without really trying too hard on pump gas.

Only thing with the 351 blocks you have to watch is there is an issue with some of the newer blocks and cracking under the cam bearings. You really can't see it until you pull the bearings and physically check. This is why I'd make sure to get a block from Woody at Fordstrokers. And the rotating assy too. Hell, might as well just have him build the whole thing. They aren't cheap, but neither is DIY doing it correctly and having a pro as good as Woody build your motor is something that is worth paying for IMO.
I just never think about the really early blocks as they are a shorter deck height, 9.48 vs. 9.50 on the 71/74 blocks............................... and the 69/70 blocks are becoming almost impossible to find.
One very important factor for the OE blocks is priority oiling mod's along with drilling and tapping for oil to the timing chain area...............certainly something to consider when you get over 600hp.
The other possibility with the 351 early blocks is they've got a lot more wall than later blocks which will enable them to go 427 cubic inches........a lot of plastic Cobra guys use this motor.
I believe the 351w is one the best motors Ford ever built......Ford Tuff
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:22 AM   #13
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Will newer EFI set-ups bolt into the older 351 blocks ?
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:33 AM   #14
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Will newer EFI set-ups bolt into the older 351 blocks ?
If you are talking OE units, sure they will. They made the 351w until 1997 and the 351w was even put into the Ford Lightning hotrod pickup trucks.
I know it's pretty easy to convert a carb'd 351w to EFI with people like FAST or some of the other aftermarket companies.
Let me clarify what I just said, 351w EFI units will work.................not from a 302. Nothing from a 302 will work in a 351w.....................although the 351w heads will fit a 302 with some modifications. Back in the early 70's the trick was to take the 69 351w 4 barrel heads and put them on a 289/302............again, with some modifications. With the advent of aftermarket aluminum heads not too many people use the OE 351w heads any longer because the aftermarket heads are so much better........good for some 40/60HP more than the OE.
If you are serious about the 351w I'd look for a doner pickup...........take the motor/trans and ECU with harness. I'm not an electronic buy and I'm sure there are people on this forum that could help...............I'm older than dirt and although my current Mustang is computer controlled.................I'd rather be working with a carb.
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:44 AM   #15
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I was thinking more along the lines of using a GT40 style intake on a 351, but using 351 heads...How are the 351 blocks out of the F150 Lighting? Good point base to build a 450-500HP motor?
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:55 AM   #16
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I was thinking more along the lines of using a GT40 style intake on a 351, but using 351 heads...How are the 351 blocks out of the F150 Lighting? Good point base to build a 450-500HP motor?
As I mentioned, nothing from a 302 will fit a 351w as the block is about 1" wider and 1" taller.
I think 1988 was when Ford went to EFI on the 351w and changed to a roller cam sometime in the early 90's.
The Lighting block was just a production block and did have more HP than a production motor....................something like 40/50hp more.
I'm sure if you could find a Lighting motor they would want a pretty penny for it and you could find a normal EFI 351w and make way more HP by rebuilding it with the right parts.
Just a question...................what kind of budget have you set for this build???
As was mentioned..............to make HP in a SBF the most important key are the heads..............aftermarket heads are needed to make a 400/450HP motor if you want to keep it reliable.
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Old 07-16-2015, 10:00 AM   #17
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I haven't really set a "budget"..,I'm just trying to what be the best route to go to make decent power without spending $10,000 plus on just a motor. Ultimately I'm gonna be looking around for a motor to rebuild and I kind of wanted an idea of where I should be starting and what I should be looking for. I appreciate all your info...the last I want to do is build a motor and then split the block...I would like a very reliable motor to have in a street car.
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:48 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by JK564 View Post
I haven't really set a "budget"..,I'm just trying to what be the best route to go to make decent power without spending $10,000 plus on just a motor. Ultimately I'm gonna be looking around for a motor to rebuild and I kind of wanted an idea of where I should be starting and what I should be looking for. I appreciate all your info...the last I want to do is build a motor and then split the block...I would like a very reliable motor to have in a street car.
Ok you don't want to spend $10k, what would you like to spend, $5k, $7k????
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:53 AM   #19
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I'd say in the area of $5k
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:06 PM   #20
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I'd say in the area of $5k
Does the $5k include the electronics.........EEC, wire harness...or is the $5k just on the motor/long block?
If the $5k is for everything I would suggest shooting for 400 or maybe 450HP is you choose components wisely.........just depends on what 351 you can find that is running and reasonably priced with everything you need.
Just to get a feel..............complete forged rotating assembly is $1500, heads are $1200, machine work to block would be around $1000(maybe a little less), cam lifters $500 and that leaves you with maybe $800/1000 for everything else. Or if want to just have the motor rebuilt with OE crank/rods and new pistons/rings/bearings and gaskets you could probably save $1000 if you didn't buy the complete rotating assembly...........that would leave you a little more wiggle room.
$5k to make 500HP is going to be on the edge of reliable..................because you are going to have to use most of the OE parts...........................IMHO
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:39 PM   #21
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$5k total... Not going to get any 351 in there reliably. I'd do a explorer pullout 302 and then do all the bolt ons and a cam and shoot for 300hp with a shot of nitrous for 450hp.

Might be able to throw a used motor/supercharger setup in there with some suspension for $5k if you are good at DIY and know exactly what you are doing.
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Old 07-16-2015, 02:55 PM   #22
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Think long and hard about what you want to do and if you really want to have a semi-race motor with 400/450hp or if you can live with a 350hp motor. Also the old saying there is nothing that will take the place of cubic inches.
Or, you could look for someone who has built a motor for a project and either moved on or run out of money........like this;
Ford 351w engine

351W efi

351w

Ford 351w stroker 408

Parting out 1992 Ford F350

305 and 351w engine for sale

This list is just a few I found in 10 minutes of looking...........just not sure where you are located.
If you were closer I'd help you build a motor...............as long as it was a 351w.
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