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Old 07-29-2015, 10:25 PM   #1
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Rear lower control arms

So i have a question. My mac rear square lower control arm bushings blew out today. I called the company and they said they no longer make those control arms or the bushings. So i am in search of new lower control arms because the uppers are still good. Here is my question, if i have square uppers can i get tubular lowers to use with them? Also what is a good brand? Also are the maximum motorsport heavy duty (part number mmrlca-1) control arms adequate for 315rwhp? Thanks in advance

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Old 07-30-2015, 02:20 PM   #2
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Get the max motorsports. Does not matter if they are square or tubular.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:23 PM   #3
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Great thanks. Ordered them today. They have the front spherical bushing and the polyurethane rear in them.

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Old 07-30-2015, 02:26 PM   #4
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Also just FYI it is not a good idea to run aftermarket uppers. The triangulated 4 link suspension needs the flex that the stamped uppers provide.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:37 PM   #5
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Well shoot! I guess when they go bad i will get ford racing uppers. Thanks again.

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Old 07-30-2015, 06:14 PM   #6
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Do you think that is why my ford racing diff cover hits the spare tire well when i have the kids in the back, when i hit just the right dip?

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Old 07-31-2015, 09:21 AM   #7
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Naw that is more of a suspension thing like springs and shocks.


What you got there?
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:57 AM   #8
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I have the eibach spring/dampners/swaybar kit. I think its called the pro system plus kit. It didnt start doing it until i put the ford racing diff cover in. I made sure the springs were installed correctly and the same way. The ford cover sticks out more than the stock one. But i was thinking if that bushing was going bad it could change the geometry and maybe bring the cover/ diff housing closer to the spare tire well. ???

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Old 09-17-2015, 01:15 PM   #9
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So the problem was the lower controlmarm bushings were blown out, one on each side. I replaced with maximum motorsport ones and all is good now. No more hitting.

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Old 09-23-2015, 07:26 PM   #10
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Good thing LCA took care of that issue. I've been fighting one of my stock LCA for over a day. Darn bolt is seized to the sleeve, I've just about ran out of patience. Pb blasted it like crazy, pounded it w/ my bfh, took torch to it, dulled reciprocating saw blade and haven't cut through the sleeve yet.

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Old 09-23-2015, 09:09 PM   #11
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Good thing LCA took care of that issue. I've been fighting one of my stock LCA for over a day. Darn bolt is seized to the sleeve, I've just about ran out of patience. Pb blasted it like crazy, pounded it w/ my bfh, took torch to it, dulled reciprocating saw blade and haven't cut through the sleeve yet.

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break out the saws all with good blade cut both sides of the bolt at the sleeve ends.had a jeep like that a while back.piss you off after a couple hrs doesn't it.my 450 lb impacl would not move it.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:18 PM   #12
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My front control arm bushing bolts were like that. I used a cut off wheel with at least a 4" disc if not bigger. I too dulled fire/rescue sawzall blades. Took me most of the winter. But the cut off wheel worked the best.

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Old 09-23-2015, 09:59 PM   #13
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My garage got broken into early summer and my cut-off along w/ other tools were taken otherwise that LCA wouldn't of stood a chance. Bought a sawzall & 3 different teeth count blades & no luck. Not gonna get to it till Fri. But 2morro I'll have to buy a cut-off.

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Old 09-23-2015, 10:07 PM   #14
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I converted my auto tranny car to manual, did my own rear gears, replaced heater core, and various other things but this has got to be the one that's got me really mad/ frustrated. Believe me, I took out my anger & frustrations out on that bolt & it just won't budge. My torque boxes aren't damage, but if i keep pounding that bolt they will get damaged. Nut came off fine, I'll take that advise & cut out sleeve. Thanks fellas

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Old 09-25-2015, 11:38 AM   #15
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Cut everything off LOL.
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Old 08-24-2017, 09:41 PM   #16
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Update. So my upper control arms went bad too. The poly bushings exploded. So i got the maximum motorsport stamped steel uppers (copy of the ford racing uppers). Gonna try those and see how they go. Been riding about a week now on them and they seem to be good. A bit more "flex" in the rear end now. Not as stiff. So far so good.

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Old 08-25-2017, 09:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havhammer View Post
Update. So my upper control arms went bad too. The poly bushings exploded. So i got the maximum motorsport stamped steel uppers (copy of the ford racing uppers). Gonna try those and see how they go. Been riding about a week now on them and they seem to be good. A bit more "flex" in the rear end now. Not as stiff. So far so good.

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That's how the uppers are supposed to be. The ones you had on there probably blew up before the torque boxes started to crack which is a good thing. The aftermarket UCAs with the poly bushings bind up like crazy which can lead to snap oversteer which can lead to the rear going squirrely on you and losing control of the car which is not good...

The 4 link setup is bad... and you need the flexyness of the stock stamped UCAs to allow it to move around to prevent what I just described. You CAN take the UCAs out and have a shop weld a bottom section of metal onto them to fully box them. That gives you a little more of a solid feel back there but still has enough give to do what its supposed to do.

Also would recommend doing the bushings in the actual rear housing itself for the control arms. Max Motorsports makes a rental kit where you can do them with the thing just on jackstands. Or drop the rear out and make your own press out kit with $5 worth of hardware and a socket. Dropping the SRA takes 5 seconds.
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:41 AM   #18
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Hammer....have you checked your torque boxes to make sure they are good, no tears or rips? It would be a good idea to get that done as well as that is where the control arms hook up to and are notorious for being broken.
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Old 08-25-2017, 09:55 PM   #19
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Already did the torque boxes, upper and lower kit. And i already replaced the diff. Bushings for the uca. I went with factory ones. I did them when i replaced the uca the first time. I made my own "press tool" to r&r them. Worked pretty good. Also bolted and welded in the torque box reinforcement peices. Thanks for the advice guys.

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Old 08-25-2017, 10:53 PM   #20
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Well that's pretty much all you can do to the 4 link... IRS or 3 link or even a 5 link are all solid fixes for it but its just... a bad design.
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Also just FYI it is not a good idea to run aftermarket uppers. The triangulated 4 link suspension needs the flex that the stamped uppers provide.
Since no one else asked, it this specific to the 79-95 GTs only? Or does this apply to all Mustang GTs and V6s of all years?

According to Voltwings article on "A beginner's guide to modifying your V6", a little difference in opinions.

Upper control arm (and bracket): This part is critical for correcting pinion angle. This is important when a car is both A. Lowered, and B. has a one piece driveshaft. It is very commonly known that an aftermarket UCA will cause a "clunking" noise when used with the stock bracket, so it is highly recommended to upgrade both at the same time.
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