Sluggish, Bogging, you name it. Codes 31, 41, & 91 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 08-04-2015, 10:33 AM   #1
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Chantilly
Region: Virginia
Posts: 3
Sluggish, Bogging, you name it. Codes 31, 41, & 91

Before I dive in, just want to say this will be my first post beside the introduction and I greatly appreciate everyone for taking the time to read and respond to this thread.

Backstory: I've always been used to seeing the CEL come on and off every now and then for a few seconds ever since I got the car. On my way back from class, I stopped by the gas station to fill her up. Car was running perfectly; however, as soon as I topped her off and started heading home, in the low rpms (I'd say 1000-2000) she would buck and be a little sluggish. It also sounded as if the oxygen sensor had fallen off from my x-pipe (I know because it's happened to me before), with the exhaust making a leaky, throaty sound. I read the codes from the computer and got 31, 41, & 91.

With some research, many concluded these codes don't really affect drivability, but I wanted to fix them anyway after seeing the CEL for too long. I first replaced the O2 sensors, made sure to clear the codes, and started the car. She was at 90%; however, same problem with the acceleration or just cruising around those rpms. Didn't fix the problem but it got rid of codes 41 & 91 and it was part of regular maintenance anyway.

Next, I got a new EGR position sensor (what goes behind the EGR valve) to fix Code 31. I put her in, and at the same time decided to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. Yes, I used specific cleaning sprays, no, I didn't touch the MAF sensor. I also made sure the Spark Plug Wires weren't loose on the spark plugs or distributer, weren't touching or crossing over each other. Basically just took them off and plugged them back in (made a nice popping sound when plugged). Fired her up, took her for a drive, and she was at 100%! So relieved, I decided to meet up with some friends 30 minutes away. Took her on the highway and she was perfect. On my way home, after driving for about 10 minutes, the car started to make slight hints of the returning problems, and it got progressively worse. As I accelerate, the car will make popping sounds as if I drove the in first gear, drove it up to 3-4k, and pressed the clutch immediately with some force (best example I can give for my car and exhaust). The worst part is I don't see the CEL coming on anymore and drivability is far worse than what it was from the beginning.

So this is where I'm at right now. Mind you, idle is fine at around 700-800 and doesn't drop or raise. Leave it alone and you'd think nothing was wrong. There are no vacuum leaks; only sound coming from the engine is the infamous BBK throttle body whistle, but I'll be fixing that soon. If anyone has shared my experience, please let me know what you've done.

Again, thanks for taking the time to read this. I just wanted to make sure I'm very thorough with my experience thus far.
khfuture is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-04-2015, 04:30 PM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
smurf stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Miami
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,341
Sometimes the CEL light won't come on for some codes.


So what you are saying is that when it warms up after driving some it will start acting sluggish and missing. I would say something electrical then like an ignition module, PIP, plug wires or the coil.
__________________
2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
smurf stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2015, 04:33 PM   #3
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Chantilly
Region: Virginia
Posts: 3
The ignition module, plug wires, coil, cap and rotor are all less than two years old. To replace the PIP is essentially replacing the distributor, correct?
khfuture is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-05-2015, 01:02 PM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
wbrockstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Nashville
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 289
You don't have to replace the distributer in order to get a new pip sensor,but some people decide to go that route.You have to remove the distributer gear from the shaft,remove the ignition module,remove the two screws holding the stator to the shaft and pull the shaft out of the distributer housing then the pip sensor can be removed.That's why some guys decide to just replace the whole distributer,but its not a hard job to do for the average mechanic.If you turn the distributer upside down and remove the ignition module, you'll see the bottom of the pip sensor.The male prongs on the ignition module plug into the female terminals on the pip sensor.Ignition modules are notorious for going out,especially if its a cheap remanufactured module instead of a Motorcraft.The link below shows you how to test the pip & ignition module.It helps to somehow warm the parts up so it simulates engine heat.Heat soak issues is normally what causes these parts to start acting up.When the engines cold they normally work fine,but as the engine gets hot they start developing problems such as yours.
SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure
__________________
91 LX 342ci(10.5:1)
TFS 190cc(stage ll)
TFS track heat
XE276HR .544" .544"
Flowtech 1 3/4"
Prochamber w FM
wbrockstar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2015, 01:04 PM   #5
Registered User
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Chantilly
Region: Virginia
Posts: 3
I see, thanks for the reply. I figured I'm going to buy a remanufactured distributer; it comes with a new TFI module and it would be best replacing the stock unit all together. I hope that fixes my problem!
khfuture is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2015, 04:13 PM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
smurf stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Miami
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,341
Make sure it is a good reman as the stock dizzy is usually the best.
__________________
2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
smurf stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2015, 04:44 PM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
wbrockstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Nashville
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 289
I agree with SmurfStang.

BTW-If you decide to buy a performance dizzy instead of reman at the last minute,do not buy anything from MSD
__________________
91 LX 342ci(10.5:1)
TFS 190cc(stage ll)
TFS track heat
XE276HR .544" .544"
Flowtech 1 3/4"
Prochamber w FM
wbrockstar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2015, 08:57 AM   #8
Staff
Regular
Staff
 
scottydsntknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: JB MDL
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 16,579
I had to get 3 autozone remans on my Cobra before I got one that worked properly. It is what it is. However, the distributors on these cars are notorious for going out. If you remove the cap and see a lot of silvery "dust" in there it is most likely the PIP. Mine went bad at 65k original miles on my Cobra.


Now would be as good a time as any to upgrade to a Crane unit... just stay away from MSD and Accel.
__________________
2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
scottydsntknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Name: People name their Mustangs? Really? :: 2012 Ford Mustang jip289 Member Garages 22 09-17-2014 01:08 PM
New MySpace display name and AIM screen name? adron The Bar 2 03-13-2010 01:41 PM
97 feelin a lil sluggish supercriz Pre-2005 V6 Mustang 10 03-26-2007 12:38 AM
Real sluggish acceleration ASSEMbler Pre-2005 V6 Mustang 9 03-25-2007 10:45 PM

» Like Us On Facebook



07:04 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.