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Old 09-14-2015, 07:22 PM   #1
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95 GT not running?

OK. Saturday I drove the car and in ran just fine. I parked it and didn't run it until this morning. I got 50ft down the road and the check engine light came on and it started bucking and died. The idle is extremely rough and if you press the gas it kills the car. I swapped the fuel filter but nothing. What would kill it just sitting? Where should I start. Parts swap is not a game I want to play searching.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:24 PM   #2
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Good start would be scanning the code
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:27 PM   #3
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Down side to that is it is OBD1 so I cant just go to autozone or O'riley. They only read OBD2
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:09 PM   #4
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I would try to find a scanner at a local store
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splogan View Post
Down side to that is it is OBD1 so I cant just go to autozone or O'riley. They only read OBD2

answer to that is jump connector wires "A" and "B" together on test plug count the flashs of mil light.facing plug they are right side top row.get codes and post them,then we can help.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:32 AM   #6
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You can run your codes for free.....learn this.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html


Here is what they mean..
KOEO, KOER, CMM and balance test codes 2 digit and 3 digit


If you want you can purchase this to help you out....
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-For.../dp/B000EW0KHW


This is a good way to start diagnosing. After this step you need to figure out what ha changed, what did you touch, upgrade....anything to help pin point the problem.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:41 AM   #7
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I ordered a Ford OBD1 code reader last night. I will start with that and see where i end up. I should have it Wed
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:38 PM   #8
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Now they are not as comprehensive as the newer obdii but they will at least give you a starting point. Good luck

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Old 09-16-2015, 07:38 AM   #9
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Fuel pump or the PIP might have taken a crap. The PIP is the pickup in the dizzy, they are notorious for going out and frying the coil. The one in my Cobra went out at like 60k miles...
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:24 PM   #10
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Maybe try unplugging the mass air sensor and see if it runs better or has throttle response.

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Old 09-16-2015, 05:54 PM   #11
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So the codes I am getting are

111
10
157

So the MAF is shot?
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Old 09-17-2015, 12:43 PM   #12
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Yeah sounds like the MAF is showing problems. Make sure your battery and alt is good though.


have your battery fully charged- disconnect positive & negative- let everything discharge- put it back- fire it up- see what happens now.


When you're dealing with electrical/computer ****, you never believe anything the car tells you. Its just there to help (loosely) guide you.


Check vacuum leaks and fuel pressure as usual. Might as well bench test your MAF sensor with a multimeter before you go replacing it, as well.
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Old 09-17-2015, 01:10 PM   #13
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Pull the MAF element and clean it with MAF cleaner. Clean/replace the air filter, make sure all connections are tight as far as wiring and quadruple check for vac leaks.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:54 PM   #14
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OK, I cleaned the MAF nothing. So I ordered a new MAF sensor reset the computer and the problem still exists. Safe to say I wasted $100 on a MAF. Now what?
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:17 PM   #15
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Well I wouldn't have ordered a new element... if they are clean they should work... Coil and PIP would be my next stop... I had mine go out in my Cobra and the symptoms were similar.
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:19 PM   #16
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I went with the new MAF because that was the code I was getting. That and a cylinder 1 error code
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Old 09-25-2015, 11:50 AM   #17
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Here is a way to test the MAF.
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:44 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=Splogan;2293103]So the codes I am getting are

111
10
157

So the MAF is shot

Are you sure you ran the scan right??I assume you done a koeo scan and got code 111,correct??If yes,that's a system pass code for OD codes.The next code you should have seen is code 10,correct??If yes,that's called the "seperater code". Its outputted after the OD codes are flashed to let you know the next set of codes coming up are gonna be the CM codes.These codes are the ones that have been logged during the previous 40 ignition cycles.Once these codes are flashed,the koeo scan is done.Now you need to do the koer scan.I assume you got code 157 during the koeo scan,correct?? The reason I bring this up is you mentioned having a "cylinder #1 error code". I think you believe you've got a cylinder #1 code because of getting code #10 on the koeo scan.That code is actually the seperater code rather than cylinder #1 code.You haven't even run a koer scan or cylinder balance test yet,to even know whether you've got a cylinder problem or not.Youll have to run a koer scan first in order to extract
" R" codes,then you can run the cylinder balance test.The sbf tech link smurf posted will explain how to do all of these tests in order,if you can get the car to run that is.
You need to run the koeo scan again to see whats causing the mil to light up.You have to trouble shoot the EEC-IV system in a step by step process before continuing on to the next level of diagnosis.
These are the only circuits/sensors that will cause the mil to come on while the failure condition is present.

CIRCUIT
ACT
ECT
BP/MAP
MAF
TPS
EVP
HEGO
Once the failure condition is corrected,the mil will turn back off.Intermittent failures(loose/corroded wiring harness,open/shorted sensor wire,internally damaged sensor being affected by heat or vibration)will also cause the mil to come on until the condition is corrected.All other circuits can cause driveability problems too,but they won't necessarily turn the mil on & that's why you need to do the scans again.I would definitely test the MAF sensor wiring too with the diagram smurf posted.Check your grounds too.Neg battery cable to block/timing cover,rear driver side cylinder head to firewall ground strap and (especially) the EEC ground.Its shown in the picture below.Make sure grounds are tight & corrosion free.Make sure the fender apron mounted starter solenoid bolts are tight because its case grounded & has numerous important wires attached to it like the ignition switch, etc.The TFI module and pip sensor are prone to failure,like Scotty mentioned,so here's a testing link you can use.It helps to heat these sensors up with a blow dryer before testing to simulate the engine heats affect on them.

http://351winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.html
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