EGR delete possible problem - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-24-2015, 10:49 AM   #1
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EGR delete possible problem

So I have been having a problem with the pipe running from my headers to my engine for some time now it has kept coming loose and never seemed to go on right so I decided that if it comes off again I'm going to delete it so it came off last night and now I'm going about deleting it. So I went about deleting it this way I took the old pipe off of my stock headers cut it and got the nuts off and put pennies in each nut to block it off. but here is where I guess I went wrong I took off my EGR to secure the nut better and ended up breaking this hard plastic hose/pipe of some sorts that connected to it then I decided to take them all of and pull it out to see where it was coming from and ended up breaking two more. Any ideas what this is or what I should do? Click image for larger version

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Old 11-24-2015, 11:35 AM   #2
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A new question has arisen. So me being who I am decided to take apart my EGR and was wondering if it was supposed to look like this? Click image for larger version

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Old 11-26-2015, 08:59 AM   #3
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They are part of the vacuum. You can go to auto zone or any parts store and replace with rubber hoses and yes the egr looks fine from what I can see


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Old 11-26-2015, 07:08 PM   #4
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The vacuum hoses shown in your 3rd picture connect to the components shown in my 1st picture below,which are the vacuum canister/evr solenoid & tab tad solenoids,mounted inside the passenger fender.
To repair the vacuum hoses::grab ahold of the black rubber pieces(shown in your 1st picture) with your hand then grab the broken pieces of vacuum hose with needle nose pliers,twist & pull really hard & the broken hoses will come out of the black rubber pieces.Now put a dab of super glue all the way around each one of the vacuum hoses(shown in your 2nd picture)(close to the end of each vacuum hose)then push the black rubber pieces onto each vacuum hose,but don't let the vacuum hose go into the rubber piece more than halfway.The super glue will lock the hose to the rubber piece & seal it also,so a vacuum leak isnt created.Now you can reconnect the 2 vacuum hose assemblys (shown in your 2nd & 3rd picture) back together.
Since you're not gonna be using the egr valve,you need to leave the green vacuum hose off of the egr valve & cap/plug the hose so you dont cause a vacuum leak.There's an important reason for doing this.If the vacuum hose is still connected to the egr valve,the valve will still be commanded to open,but that will cause problems since the egr valve is no longer connected to the header.This condition can cause driveability issues & the mil may come on.Why??When the egr valve is open,the computer leans the fuel mixture & advances timing & you dont need these things to happen if the egr valve really isnt sending exhaust gases into the engine due to the deleted pipe.If you leave the vacuum hose off the egr valve,the computer will delete its function in the eec logic & the computer will set the fuel mixture & timing advance back to normal,so you wont have any driveability issues.If the mil/cel does come on once you get everything back together and drive the car,come back here & post that issue & I'll explain what you need to do to the evp sensor to get the mil to turn back off.Sorry for the long post,I go overboard on details sometimes.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
The vacuum hoses shown in your 3rd picture connect to the components shown in my 1st picture below,which are the vacuum canister/evr solenoid & tab tad solenoids,mounted inside the passenger fender.

To repair the vacuum hoses::grab ahold of the black rubber pieces(shown in your 1st picture) with your hand then grab the broken pieces of vacuum hose with needle nose pliers,twist & pull really hard & the broken hoses will come out of the black rubber pieces.Now put a dab of super glue all the way around each one of the vacuum hoses(shown in your 2nd picture)(close to the end of each vacuum hose)then push the black rubber pieces onto each vacuum hose,but don't let the vacuum hose go into the rubber piece more than halfway.The super glue will lock the hose to the rubber piece & seal it also,so a vacuum leak isnt created.Now you can reconnect the 2 vacuum hose assemblys (shown in your 2nd & 3rd picture) back together.

Since you're not gonna be using the egr valve,you need to leave the green vacuum hose off of the egr valve & cap/plug the hose so you dont cause a vacuum leak.There's an important reason for doing this.If the vacuum hose is still connected to the egr valve,the valve will still be commanded to open,but that will cause problems since the egr valve is no longer connected to the header.This condition can cause driveability issues & the mil may come on.Why??When the egr valve is open,the computer leans the fuel mixture & advances timing & you dont need these things to happen if the egr valve really isnt sending exhaust gases into the engine due to the deleted pipe.If you leave the vacuum hose off the egr valve,the computer will delete its function in the eec logic & the computer will set the fuel mixture & timing advance back to normal,so you wont have any driveability issues.If the mil/cel does come on once you get everything back together and drive the car,come back here & post that issue & I'll explain what you need to do to the evp sensor to get the mil to turn back off.Sorry for the long post,I go overboard on details sometimes.

So I just checked the codes on my car and I got a code 332 which is an EGR valve opening not detected. Could this be that I didn't seal it good enough. Or what should I do?


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Old 12-11-2015, 05:12 PM   #6
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Is the MIL/CEL=On or Off
Is the vacuum hose attached to the egr valve=Yes or No
Is the vacuum hose to the egr valve plugged=Yes or No
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Old 12-11-2015, 05:21 PM   #7
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It comes on when the temp gage reaches the R in normal. And it's plugged but not in the EGR


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Old 12-11-2015, 08:17 PM   #8
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The egr valve is commanded to open once the engine reaches operating temp,but only during part throttle(cruise)conditions.Since the SN95 ecm strategy is different than the Foxbody strategy,code 332 will cause the mil to come on once the engine reaches operating temp & the ecm goes into closed loop.Since youve got the vacuum hose removed & plugged,that will let the ecm delete egr function in the logic,which means fuel mixture & timing advance settings will be adjusted back to normal.Code 332 will make the mil stay on,but it won't cause any driveability issues.There is a little trick we do to the evp sensor on the Foxbodys that you can try(to see if it will turn the mil off)but I'm not sure if it will work or not.
Remove the evp sensor from the egr valve(leave the wiring harness connected) turn the key on/engine off,connect a voltmeter to the evp sensor Signal wire & Signal Return wire,manually push the evp sensor pintle valve inward until the meter reads between 0.25-0.67 volts.While you've got the valve pushed in,wrap electrical tape around the sensor body & end of the pintle valve so it stays between those voltage readings once you take your finger off of it.Now clear the code from the ecm & take it for a 10-15 minute test drive to see if the mil comes back on again or stays off.If the mil comes back on,run the koeo koer scan again to see if its still an egr related code.If it is,the trick didn't work.Like I said,the egr code won't cause any driveability issues, but it will keep the dash light on which can get annoying.If the trick does work at keeping the mil off,you can superglue the pintle valve to the sensor body(to hold it in place at the 0.25-0.67 voltage level)remove the tape from it then reinstall it back onto the egr valve. I don't think its gonna work though due to how your ecm strategy is set up,but its worth a try.
BTW-on a Foxbody,when you do this trick it changes the code to a code 33 & thats the only egr related fault code that won't trigger the cel to come on.
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