Code 118 means the ect sensor is open,on the 2.3ltr....Check the wiring harness & the ect sensor pinouts to make sure they aren't corroded or loose.Make sure the harness is plugged in correctly too.If you by some chance had the ect sensor disconnected or its wiring harness came loose on its own & you let the engine run momentarily,this could have caused code 118 to store in the pcm.
If the things above are OK,get an ohmmeter out & test the ect sensor.To test,disconnect the wiring harness from the ect sensor,touch the (+)meter probe to one of the sensor pinouts & touch the (-)
meter probe to the other pinout.The sensors ohm value should match the #'s shown in the chart below at a given temp.
Example:: if the engine is cold & the coolant temp is 50°,the sensor should read 58,750ohms(like the chart below shows)If it doesnt & the reading is way off,the ect sensor is bad.Test the sensor while the engines cold,reconnect the harness, start the car & let it reach operating temp,shut the engine off,disconnect the harness & test the sensor again on the warm engine.
For code 223 & 224,you'll need to click on the link below then scroll down the page til you get to figure #6,click enlarge so the diagram can be seen better & use it to locate the pinouts for the ICM wiring harnesses.Youll be testing 2 wires between the ICM & 60 pin connector.The 60 pin connector is the wiring harness that plugs into your pcm.Im still trying to locate a diagram that shows the 60 pin connector.
Use a ohmmeter to test the following wires.You must disconnect the 60 pin connector from the pcm & disconnect the top & bottom wiring harnesses from the ignition control module before you test.Once you do this use the diagrams below,locate pinout #12 on the bottom ICM harness & pinout #4 on the 60 pin connector.Touch the (+)ohmmeter probe to pinout #12 & the (-)probe to pinout #4 on the 60 pin connector.It should read 5.0 ohms or less.Now locate pinout #6 on the top ICM harness & pinout #32 on the 60 pin connector & do the same test you done to pinouts #12 & #4.It should also read 5.0 ohms or less.If either wire reads above 5.0 ohms,that wire has an open in it.
Out of curiosity,did you put a layer of heat sink grease on the back of the ignition module before you installed it??If not,that's your problem.Some modules won't work without this grease & all modules will burn up within minutes if you don't have this grease applied.Another thing to check the module for is that all of its mounting bolts are installed(especially the 2 left side bolts)Its crucial that both of the left side bolts are in place because that is what grounds the module.Once they're in place,pinout #7 becomes the ignition ground.
There are a few other things that can cause a hot no start condition.A defective crank position sensor,defective fuel pressure regulator or leaking fuel injector.To test the regulator:: let the engine reach operating temp,pull the vacuum hose off the regulator & see if it has fuel inside of it & check the regulator vacuum port to see if fuel is seeping from it.If yes,the regulator is bad.The injectors would need to be checked while the hot no start condition is occurring.During the no start condition,press the gas pedal all the way to the floor & hold it there while you attempt to start the engine.If the engine starts,youve most likely got a injector leaking.Shut the engine off & wait 5 minutes then start pulling the spark plugs one at a time.If you get a plug that's wet with fuel,you've located the cylinder with the leaking injector.
(ICM Wiring Harness Link)
| Repair Guides | Ford Distributorless Ignition System (dis) | Diagnosis And Testing | AutoZone.com