93 2.3L ignition problems. - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-27-2015, 08:39 PM   #1
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93 2.3L ignition problems.

I have a 93 2.3 car that starts on the first try when cold. It runs and drives great. No skipping. No sputtering. No missing. If I drive 10 minutes down the road and stop at a store and shut it off, it wont start back up. I replaced the ignition module. The new mod would not start the car at all. Not even when it was cold. I rechecked the engine and got these codes. 118, 223, and 224. 223 is loss of dual plug inhibitor control. 224 is PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3, 4 Primary circuit failure dual plug. And 118 Coolant temp sensor above maximum voltage. I have had a fox in 10 years. This is my first dual ignition 4 cylinder, So I'm kinda rusty with my fox knowledge. What do these codes mean? Do I need one coil or two? Which one is the primary, Front or rear coil? Is the temp sensor code the reason the electric fan does run? Please help me refresh my memory.
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:09 AM   #2
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Code 118 means the ect sensor is open,on the 2.3ltr....Check the wiring harness & the ect sensor pinouts to make sure they aren't corroded or loose.Make sure the harness is plugged in correctly too.If you by some chance had the ect sensor disconnected or its wiring harness came loose on its own & you let the engine run momentarily,this could have caused code 118 to store in the pcm.
If the things above are OK,get an ohmmeter out & test the ect sensor.To test,disconnect the wiring harness from the ect sensor,touch the (+)meter probe to one of the sensor pinouts & touch the (-)
meter probe to the other pinout.The sensors ohm value should match the #'s shown in the chart below at a given temp.
Example:: if the engine is cold & the coolant temp is 50°,the sensor should read 58,750ohms(like the chart below shows)If it doesnt & the reading is way off,the ect sensor is bad.Test the sensor while the engines cold,reconnect the harness, start the car & let it reach operating temp,shut the engine off,disconnect the harness & test the sensor again on the warm engine.
For code 223 & 224,you'll need to click on the link below then scroll down the page til you get to figure #6,click enlarge so the diagram can be seen better & use it to locate the pinouts for the ICM wiring harnesses.Youll be testing 2 wires between the ICM & 60 pin connector.The 60 pin connector is the wiring harness that plugs into your pcm.Im still trying to locate a diagram that shows the 60 pin connector.

Use a ohmmeter to test the following wires.You must disconnect the 60 pin connector from the pcm & disconnect the top & bottom wiring harnesses from the ignition control module before you test.Once you do this use the diagrams below,locate pinout #12 on the bottom ICM harness & pinout #4 on the 60 pin connector.Touch the (+)ohmmeter probe to pinout #12 & the (-)probe to pinout #4 on the 60 pin connector.It should read 5.0 ohms or less.Now locate pinout #6 on the top ICM harness & pinout #32 on the 60 pin connector & do the same test you done to pinouts #12 & #4.It should also read 5.0 ohms or less.If either wire reads above 5.0 ohms,that wire has an open in it.
Out of curiosity,did you put a layer of heat sink grease on the back of the ignition module before you installed it??If not,that's your problem.Some modules won't work without this grease & all modules will burn up within minutes if you don't have this grease applied.Another thing to check the module for is that all of its mounting bolts are installed(especially the 2 left side bolts)Its crucial that both of the left side bolts are in place because that is what grounds the module.Once they're in place,pinout #7 becomes the ignition ground.
There are a few other things that can cause a hot no start condition.A defective crank position sensor,defective fuel pressure regulator or leaking fuel injector.To test the regulator:: let the engine reach operating temp,pull the vacuum hose off the regulator & see if it has fuel inside of it & check the regulator vacuum port to see if fuel is seeping from it.If yes,the regulator is bad.The injectors would need to be checked while the hot no start condition is occurring.During the no start condition,press the gas pedal all the way to the floor & hold it there while you attempt to start the engine.If the engine starts,youve most likely got a injector leaking.Shut the engine off & wait 5 minutes then start pulling the spark plugs one at a time.If you get a plug that's wet with fuel,you've located the cylinder with the leaking injector.

(ICM Wiring Harness Link)
| Repair Guides | Ford Distributorless Ignition System (dis) | Diagnosis And Testing | AutoZone.com
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:23 PM   #3
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Thank you for that info. For once I come across someone who actually knows what they are talking about. I don't have time tonight to check it, but will do as soon as I can. No one has mentioned a possible leaking injector. The car will start in the no run condition if I feather the throttle while attempting to start the engine. it's a rough start. Once the engine fires off, I feather the gas until the engine smooths out. Sometimes, not all of the time, i get a rough idle on a cold start, but it smooths out afters just a few seconds. As for the temp sensor, I get and accurate reading on the gauge, but the fan won't run. The person I bought the car from put in an aftermarket relay system for the fan and it usually works. Sometimes I have to use the switch they installed as a back up. Where is this sensor located on the 2.3L? Thank you again for your help.
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Old 11-29-2015, 01:08 PM   #4
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The fan is most likely not working because of a bad cooling fan switch or ect sensor. I tried posting this picture,but it turned out blurry,so do the following to view this picture.Click the link below then scroll down til you get to post #9 & view the picture thats shown.See if your engine has the 3 sensors that are circled in the picture.If it does,the cooling fan switch is the sensor that's circled on the lower left.If you don't have all of the sensors shown in the link below,your fan is most likely controlled by the ect sensor.Its the sensor mounted in the heater core inlet hose on the passenger side near the firewall.
If you need to feather the pedal to keep the engine running, you need to test fuel pressure at the fuel rail shrader valve.Autozone rents fuel pressure test kits,if you don't own one.Fuel pressure should read 30-45psi with the koeo.If yours reads lower than this,drop the fuel tank and check the pump supply hose that runs between the pump & the fuel pickup assembly.Check it for leaks,ruptures & a loose clamp.If the hose is OK,the fuel pump is bad.If you cycle the key on/off 4-5 times before you try to start it & that makes it start right up with ease,that's a sure sign for a weak pump.Make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged too before you drop the tank for inspection. You might just have a clogged fuel filter.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...mp-sensor.html
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