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Old 04-21-2016, 12:44 AM   #1
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Need help with 88 fox body!!!!

Hey guys I recently picked up a 88 fox body gt car starts and idles fine but as soon as start driving it'll act like it's cutting out not constantly but enough to get annoying. It's even done this weird thing every once in a while where it cuts up won't take throttle then dies. I'm lost I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, tps, plugs, and wires I'm tired of buying parts that's not fixing the problem please help Click image for larger version

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Old 04-21-2016, 02:41 PM   #2
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Any help?
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:33 PM   #3
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I presume that you have checked for any trouble codes and there are none present?
It seems that you have gone through much of the fuel system. Have you done a fuel pressure test to verify that the pressure is correct?
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:09 PM   #4
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Before I changed the tps it was throwing a code for the tps but I haven't checked the codes again yet cause I don't have an odb1 reader had another code but I don't remember what that one was. And I tried doing a pressure test but the kit I rented did have any fittings that would fit on mine
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:40 PM   #5
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It would be helpful to know if there are any codes. You should try to get a code reader. If you search YouTube, there should be some videos on how to retrieve the codes, without a scanner, using the check engine light. Whichever method that you use, be sure to write down the codes!
Same thing with the fuel pressure. Without testing, all you can do is guess, and throw parts at it. Try to find an auto parts store that has a fuel pressure tester that is complete with all of the fuel rail adapters.
Also, have you inspected and cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor?
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:30 PM   #6
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This was the dark days before mass air flow sensors
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:48 PM   #7
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Ahhh yes... 88
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:23 PM   #8
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It's starting to get a little dangerous to drive it's completely cut out on me twice today
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:32 PM   #9
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Vacuum leak maybe, I'd check the hoses for cracks.

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Old 04-21-2016, 07:55 PM   #10
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It's starting to get a little dangerous to drive it's completely cut out on me twice today
I wish that I could tell you "Just change this, and it will be fine".
But it is a 28 year old car that we're talking about! It could be a number of relatively simple things that could possibly cause this problem to occur.
The good news is that if it is a problem with fuel delivery, you have narrowed it down to really only one more possibility.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:06 PM   #11
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I had similar issues on my old 88gt vert. Changed out the computer and it was like a new car. Be great if you could find an 89 mass air donor car. Also check the condition of the vacuum hose on the back of the intake to the Map sensor thats mounted on the firewall. Speed density cars are touchy especially with age.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:39 PM   #12
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I tried checking for vacuum leaks for the past two days and unfortunately found nothing it's really getting annoying honestly. I bought it thinking it was gonna be an easy fix but has been nothing but a huge headache
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:46 PM   #13
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I'll be looking into getting an obd1 reader to check for codes cause I'm getting no check engine lights which is the strange thing cause it's definitely a head scratcher
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:00 PM   #14
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Have you checked the sensor on the side of the distributor? I don't know if 88 had it but I know my 90 had it and it went bad and was really making it stutter till it finally gave out and wouldn't let the car start. I'd check that or maybe the egr sensor is bad or the egr on the TB is messed up. Just some things you can check without a code reader
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:31 PM   #15
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I changed the distributor twice the guy I bought it from said it didn't start doing it until he changed the distributor the first time. What's the best way to check the egr and sensor?
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:40 PM   #16
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There will be a code if the EGR is not working properly.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:43 PM   #17
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Are you positive that the distributor is installed correctly? And not a tooth off?
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:45 PM   #18
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And the spout connector was removed before the timing was set?
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:52 PM   #19
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I'm about 99.9% sure it was I let my uncle install it since he's a big ford mechanic and yeah it was disconnected
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:20 PM   #20
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Well, knowing what you have replaced so far, if I had to make an educated guess on which part to try next, I would lean towards the fuel pressure regulator. Judging from the symptoms, it does seem like it is fuel related. A fuel pressure test would verify if there is a problem or not.
As for the ignition system, it sounds like you have replaced everything except for the TFI module, and the coil. Both of which, I suppose, can cause similar driveability problems to what you are experiencing.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:20 PM   #21
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It's gotta be something going on in that tb
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:21 PM   #22
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I got a new coil sitting in my garage I can swap it out and see
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:24 PM   #23
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It's gotta be something going on in that tb
Throttle Body?
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:43 PM   #24
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Yeah it'll cut out and not take throttle
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:05 PM   #25
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Aside from an occasional cleaning, there isn't much to go wrong with a TB. Although, I did replace the one on my truck a while back... After about 550k miles!
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:56 PM   #26
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Here are a few good link to help you out....

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

KOEO, KOER, CMM and balance test codes 2 digit and 3 digit

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,1031.0.html
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:15 PM   #27
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Follow the directions in the 1st link Smurf Stang posted.The 87-88 Foxbodys(except 87-88 Cal emissions models) dont have a functional check engine light.Thats why you haven't seen one flashing out codes,unless of course its a Cal model.Just run a jumper wire between the STI terminal & the SIGNAL RETURN terminal,connect a test light between the (+)battery post & the STO terminal,turn the key on/engine off & the test light will begin to flash the codes out.Theyll be two digit codes(example:: 3 flashes,pause,6 flashes,pause=code 36) Use the diagram shown in the link to identify which terminals belong to the STI,STO & SIGRTN.
**ATTENTION**
Make sure you insert the jumper wire into the STI connecter & not the underhood light connecter (they look similar) If you use the underhood light connecter accidentally,youll fry the computer as soon as you turn the key on.....
If codes still wont flash after connecting the jumper wire like described above,insert the jumper wire between the STI terminal & the (-)battery post instead,then try running the test again.

I would also do the 10 pin connectors (aka:salt & pepper shakers) maintenance, shown in the link below.Loose or corroded pinouts here will cause weird idle issues,false trouble codes & driveability issues.
You might have to remove the ecm so you can inspect the capacitors & signal return line(a common issue on high mileage Foxbodys) but we'll cross that bridge after you post the results from koeo & koer tests.In otherwords,dont touch the ecm just yet.Your results will tell us whether you need to check it or not.

The tfi module has been known to cause the issues youre having.Ive had one completely cut out between 3000-4500rpm,but run normal below & above that rpm range.Heres a link you can use for testing it,if needed.Make sure you warm the engine up real good or heat the module up with a hair dryer,before you test it.AZ can also test it with a special machine theyve got.
BTW-if it turns out to be defective,dont replace it with a module from Autozone.Use a Motorcraft,BWD,etc.My oem module lasted 135k miles then I went through 3 modules from AZ in a 1 year time frame.

(10 PIN CONNECTER LINK)
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,37479.0.html

(TFI MODULE LINK)
http://351winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.html
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
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There will be a code if the EGR is not working properly.
The easiest & quickest way to see if the egr valve is causing your problem is to simply remove the vacuum hose from the egr valve,plug the hose then take the car for a test drive.When you remove its vacuum hose,the ecm deletes egr function in the eec logic which causes the fuel mixture & timing advance settings to go back to normal.If the current problems disappear after removing the vacuum hose,thats an indication youve got issues with the egr valve,evr solenoid or the evp sensor.If the problems still exist after the hose is removed,theyre not egr related.
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:05 PM   #29
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Rockstar to the rescue.
Unfortunately with all older cars you gotta have some patience and willingness to work on them. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

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Old 04-23-2016, 01:46 AM   #30
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Sounds like a very similar problem my uncle had with his 95 f150. Evidently Ford had some issues with their computers ecm/pcm's in the late 80's early 90's. His would also stutter and wouldn't stay running unless he stayed on the gas pedal. I don't know if it's the same on fox's or not but his fuel pump never shut off when the key is turned on to acc. Does your pump shut off after a few seconds? The pcm/ecm tells the pump to shut off a second or two after turning the key over one notch. I would seriously consider taking it off and checking out the capacitors, they can be repaired but if it's leaked onto the mother board it could be ruined. Good luck
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:15 PM   #31
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Check

Just a thought & it only takes a few minutes is the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors... Good Luck
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