My fox is too hot!! - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-23-2016, 10:02 AM   #1
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My fox is too hot!!

Now that were in the hot seasons i decided to add a.c. to my car, well… not add but fix and put in the missing equipment. i put in a used condenser,compressor repaired, brand new a.c. lines, new accumulator etc…

Before this ac install/fix the car ran fairly cool in the heat.
never went past half, the car had its thermostat cut to keep it open as well.
Everything was great! but then after the a.c. equipment was installed I've noticed the car was running bit hotter when the ac was OFF. the temp was 3/4 way to the top and slowly climbed the longer i drove. When ever i decided to drive the car with the A.C ON the car got HOT even faster. after driving a couple of blocks the temp gauge what at the top redlining and my car would spill coolant out of the resivoir overflow outlet.

My best guess is that the condenser i installed is giving off too much heat and the radiator is getting all that heat straight to the face! the condenser has its own fan that blows air in the direction toward the engine. the rad has an electric fan of its own.

so guys I'm now lost on how I can fix this problem, I've missed many car events this summer due to the overheating. if anyone has any tips that would be great.

thanks guys.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:20 PM   #2
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What type of radiator?
When was the las time you flushed it?
What type of fan?
Do you have it pulling air?

You need a thermostat as the coolant needs time to sit in the radiator so that it does it's job at cooling the coolant. If the coolant is allowed to flow to fast it will never cool down.

In my stang I used an old SVO motorsport HD 2 core radiator with an electric fan out of a SN with a DC controller set up. It cools my stroker and I have AC as well.
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:14 AM   #3
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My fox is too hot!!

I have a 3 row aluminum radiator bought 5 months ago

I haven't flushed the radiator yet.

I have this jegs fan flowing to the engine. Click image for larger version

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Btw. The thermostat that comes on top of my fan isn't there anymore, I have it wired to the ignition switch.

89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:38 AM   #4
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It should cool.
Make sure you burp the system well so there are no air pockets. That has stopped a few cars before.
Also make sure the fan is pulling air.
It should have a thermostat as the water needs to sit in the radiator to cool instead of just rushing through there. It needs to do it's job by dissipating heat.
Do you still have the air dam on the bottom of the engine bay?
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:25 PM   #5
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Fans pulling air, I'll see if I can burp the system too. How many degrees thermostat do you recommend? Also there is no air ram thing in the engine bay or under the rad.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:53 AM   #6
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Well the air dammy things kinda makes a difference. Also I would use a 180 and burp the crapp outta her to make sure there is no air in there.
A new radiator cap?
Condition of the water pump?
Any water leaks or burning coolant?
Also make sure the fan is turning on around 190 or so.
We will get through these tough times.
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:58 AM   #7
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The fan is hooked up to the ignition switch so it's on at all times. Is this bad? It's got a new radiator cap, the water pump was put in brand new when the engine was built 11 months ago. So I'm gonna look if I can find an air dam and burp it. Hopefully it works. I'll let u know later on today on what happens. Thanks.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:46 PM   #8
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Here's something I been thinking about. Maybe my fans need more power because my voltage gauge is usually almost at the lower red line. And if I turn on the head lights the voltage drops more and even more when I switch on the t-Rex fuel pump. So what I've been looking at is maybe my alternator just isn't strong enough to run all of that. So if I upgrade my alternator my fans will run at optimum speed and my car will finally run cool. What do you guys think? What are me options for stronger alternators?


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:09 PM   #9
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That is a possibility. You should get your current charging system tested before deciding if you need to upgrade the alternator.

Did you install a working thermostat yet?
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:23 AM   #10
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What alt do you have? I really doubt you have a stock unit....my stock one barely let me run at night with the lights on, a/c pumping cold air and radio pumped up to kill the sound of the oooo so cool dumps (lasted like 2 months).
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:05 PM   #11
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I have an alternator from autozone not oem just a replacement, probably has the same specs as stock. I'm sure an upgraded alternator would help a geat deal I'm currently researching the 3G alternators.

As for the thermostat I'm working on picking one up from a parts store this Friday.

Btw..... I tried flushing the rad, and burping the car yesterday then went for a drive and the car got hot quickly as usual. Gonna try again once I have the thermostat in.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:20 PM   #12
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Get different fans


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Old 08-09-2016, 08:11 PM   #13
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I finally got the mustang to cool down.

1st I installed the thermostat

2nd ran new coolant/wtr

3rd burped the system twice

4th removed the fan that was in front of the condenser and proceeded to comb my condenser to let more air go through the fins, the radiator was good. It was a new 3row.

Now I'm able to cruise around confidently. I don't know which part exactly fixed it but everything that was done sure did help. Thanks everyone!



89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:10 PM   #14
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Smurf stang is correct. The stock altonator struggles to run factory options. I did the 130 amp upgrade and it's well worth the $. Little bit of modifications but few hrs you can have it knocked out.


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Old 08-11-2016, 01:41 PM   #15
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Bro awesome news and key and eye on that bad boy still for a bit. Getting hotter down here in Miami so. Consider upgrading your alt when the time comes.
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2016 VW GTI 2.0 Turbo

1989 Sonic Blue LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb. inj, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ H pipe, Flowmaster, electric fan Moates QH
391 rwhp & 424 rwtq...Mustang Dyno 11.5@122mph
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:18 PM   #16
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Will do. Thanks for all!

Next stop ordering a new clutch but that's another thread.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:19 PM   #17
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There are numerous junkyard vehicles you can snatch a 3G alternator off of.Click the link below & scroll down to the alternator section.

One of the reasons you were overheating was related to what smurf stang mentioned.Most people try to solve an overheat issue by removing the tstat,thinking the coolant wont sit inside the engine long enough to heat the coolant up.Unfortunately,this doesnt work.The whole point of a tstat is to purposely stop coolant from leaving the engine because the coolant needs to stay in the motor so it will absorb as much heat as possible from the engine components.The tstat keeps the remaining coolant inside the radiator long enough so airflow from driving & the fan will cool it back down.Once the coolant,inside the engine,reaches the tstat temp rating it opens & the hot & cool coolant switches places with each other and the cycle starts all over again.

The combing of the condenser fins probably helped alot too,since you didnt have any cooling issues until the condenser was installed.Most of the time,airflow from driving alone is usually sufficient enough to keep the radiator & condenser working properly, without the need for a fan.However on a oem fan setup,the electric fan is always programmed to come on as soon as the ac is turned on,even if youre moving at a fast enough speed to not even need the fans help.
The freon gets super hot when the compressor is engaged & this hot high pressure liquid gets sent into the condensor where airflow(from driving or the fan)removes the heat from the freon,changing it to a warm low pressure liquid. So youre right in your thinking,realizing that extra heat from the condenser plus dented/smashed fins was adding to your overheat issue.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...r-summary.html
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