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Old 08-20-2016, 10:24 PM   #1
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How much clutch?

i reaaaly need to get a new clutch assembly/kit.

My car has had this rattle at around 2000 rpm and up that has been driving me crazy for the past four months. it also would make this whirling sound when the clutch pedal was held in.

i was praying i didn't spin a bearing or break something in my engine form going a little fast. so i checked and checked and couldn't find where it was coming from.
my clutch gripped perfectly and had no smells at all.
but the rattle was there and and annoying.

it went on until 3 weeks ago. i got the car on a lift, had a friend get inside lifted him up and let him rev it to 2000 rpms or where ever the rattle started. and i finally found that the rattle was coming from my bell housing.

heres what i don't understand, my clutch grips with no problems. but I'm getting a noise, a really annoying noise! so what could be going on? could it be a throw out bearing or maybe flywheel, pressure plate, clutch bolt loose???

so now I'm online looking for a clutch, keep in mind I've never had to order one myself because i would have the shop pick the right one for my setup.
i currently have a 302 with gt40 heads, bbl ssi intake, 70mm maf, 40lb injectors, low compression pistons, block bored .20 over, everything is forged and has ARP Bolts on EVERYTHING. small performance cam, and a vortech v3 supercharger to top it off.
I've never dynoed it so i don't know how much power I'm making exactly but i think it could be around 400.

my current clutch is a center force clutch, it still holds up in grip but the noise.....
i don't know what stage it is either. i saw this on eBay today Valeo King Cobra Stage 3 Disc 10 5" Clutch Kit 86 95 Ford Mustang GT 5 0L 302" | eBay

it looks about right but the price looks too cheap if you ask me.

what kind of clutch would you guys recommend for my set up? i need something good in performance and comfy, ill be cruising around town and going to the drag strip once or twice a month. let me know if the clutch i found on the link is worth it.

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 08-20-2016, 11:14 PM   #2
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More than likely just a throw out bearing. Our cars have a habit of killing throw out bearings.

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Old 08-21-2016, 12:45 AM   #3
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yeah i see. could be a bearing. have you tried or know someone who has had this kit i listed? and is it any good?
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:53 AM   #4
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I don't know anything at all about the clutch you listed. I am not an eBay fan though.

When purchasing important mechanical parts, such as the clutch, I stay with well known names.

You are going to want to make sure that you have a Ford Racing Throw Out Bearing. That is going to be the general consensus across the board here.

For the clutch I would go with McLeod, Exedy Mach 1, or a Ford Racing Part. This is just my opinion, but I think you are going to hear much of the same recommendations.

I like Centerforce also, but I do not know anyone running that setup on a Mustang.

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Old 08-21-2016, 11:07 PM   #5
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Has to be the bearing. Had the same rattle at 2000 rpm. Bought the exedy stage 1 clutch kit on AM. When we did the work last Wednesday, my bearing was in 4 pieces.


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Old 08-21-2016, 11:08 PM   #6
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dcansmack View Post
Has to be the bearing. Had the same rattle at 2000 rpm. Bought the exedy stage 1 clutch kit on AM. When we did the work last Wednesday, my bearing was in 4 pieces.


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That will cause a problem. Lol

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Old 08-22-2016, 01:30 AM   #8
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Definitely a Ford OEM throw out bearing is in order.

I am using a Spec clutch which is not to bad. The clutch you listed is on the cheaper side (not sure why) but I am not a fan of clutches that are not solid as that has pucks. It will make driving a bit more challenging as the engagement is usually more like a light switch and had to slip.
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:09 AM   #9
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Good to know, I'm looking at this kit right here Click image for larger version

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It comes with all bearings and I also need to know if I should run an aluminum flywheel or steel?




89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:11 AM   #10
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Personally, I would use steel. It's heavier, but the life of the part is greater.

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Old 08-22-2016, 01:31 PM   #11
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Yeah, steel it is then. Aluminum might wear down over time. I went and ordered that clutch and a steel flywheel new.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haav2 View Post
Yeah, steel it is then. Aluminum might wear down over time. I went and ordered that clutch and a steel flywheel new.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
My only concern with the stage 3 is that your clutch will have very little slip.

I have an Exedy stage 1, and it took me a few miles to get used to the action and reaction of the clutch. Compared to every other clutch I have ever ran, in any car, the clutch pedal acted like an on/off switch. I was used to the ability to slip the clutch at varying degrees until the pedal was released at about 3/4 of travel.

I am not running an adjustable cable. My clutch begins engaging at about 1" off the floor. There is little to no slip taking place in the clutch at the halfway point of release.

My Mustang is my daily driver at the moment. Picking the kids up from school the first few days was interesting. I learned the new clutch while in a line of cars a mile long.

The school's car rider line reminds me of the sravung lanes at the drag strip (without the payoff of a burn out and 1/4 run).

Muscle memory is not always easy to retrain. My MGW short throw shifter took me a few miles, a couple shifts from 1st to 5th, and a few missed down shifts before I learned to let the shifter do its job. I do not want to even consider a stock shifter or light clutch now.

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Old 08-22-2016, 11:32 PM   #13
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Im 50/50 on the aluminum flywheel wearing down quicker.Heres my two sense.

A stock or oem replacement flywheel has to be resurfaced before you install a new clutch.It can be resurfaced a couple times,but after that,the flywheel is no longer useable.If the ring gear teeth are worn or damaged,due to a starter issue,etc. the flywheel will have to be replaced because the teeth are usually cut right into the flywheel itself,so the ring gear cant be replaced.
**PROS**
Inexpensive
Quiet
Absorbs driveline vibrations

**CONS**
Heavy
Brittle
Has to be resurfaced before clutch install
Can only be resurfaced a couple times
Ring gear not replaceable
Limited service life

A aluminum flywheel uses a replaceable friction disk,that you can change yourself,so the flywheel itself will actually last a lifetime.The ring gear is also replaceable, so if you break a few teeth off,just replace the ring gear and youre back in business.You cant do this with a stock replacement flywheel.
**PROS**
lightweight
Quicker acceleration
Better throttle response
Increases clutch service life(dissipates heat) Replaceable friction disk & ring gear(unlimited service life)
Stronger than an oem or stock replacement flywheel
Engine revs up & back down very quickly

**CONS**
Can be noisier than a stock flywheel
Requires slight change in driving style(since it has less rotational mass)
More expensive

Ive used the King Cobra Motorsport clutch kit with the oem style clutch disk once & I found it to be slightly stiffer than stock (heavy pedal effort required) eventhough its supposed to be 10% less stiff.You definately dont wanna run a stage 3(puck style) disk on a daily driver.Its more of a strip oriented disk.
Valeo is the company that manufacturers all of the Ford Motorsport clutch kits.The stage 1 kit is good for a stock-300hp Stang,but you definitely need something better when running forced induction.I havent used one yet,but it seems like a kit with a dual friction disk would hold up better to a forced inducted engine compared to a single friction disk.
Its definitely imperative that you get a Motorsport throwout bearing,like some suggested,even if you run a different brand clutch.If you dont already have an aluminum quadrant,Motorsport(non adjustable) cable & firewall adjuster,I highly recommend it.A heavy duty/performance clutch will put more strain on the stock quadrant and can break/strip it sometimes.I finally broke down and got a Mcleod hydraulic tob conversion kit so my pedal is always super easy to push,but its kinda pricey($500+) It was worth it to me though.Getting hung up in Nashvegas traffic got old real quick,so the stock setup had to go.Ive actually had adjustable clutch cables come off the quadrant before,while sitting in rush hour traffic,so nomore of that bs.It didnt happen when running a non adjustable Motorsport cable & firewall adjuster,but I was still unsatisfied with the pedal effort required alongside a heavy duty clutch.I'll never go back to the cable operated pedal again.However most guys will just upgrade the quadrant & cable plus add a firewall adjustable($100+) then put the other $400+ towards more hp.
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Old 08-23-2016, 03:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurf stang View Post
Definitely a Ford OEM throw out bearing is in order.

I am using a Spec clutch which is not to bad. The clutch you listed is on the cheaper side (not sure why) but I am not a fan of clutches that are not solid as that has pucks. It will make driving a bit more challenging as the engagement is usually more like a light switch and had to slip.
I said it before and will say it again use a OEM throw out bearing.
I forgot to mention that I use a Ford Billet flywheel. I also use a Spec Stage II+ clutch and it was not to bad till I swapped over to a hydraulic clutch.

SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Results By Car

You already purchased the clutch but if not call these guys and they will be more than happy to speak with you and see what your needs are.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:10 PM   #15
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Alright guys here it goes......
I got my new clutch, throw out and pilot bearings and flywheel installed and finished just now. I went for a drive. The clutch feels great! Taking it easy so it can wear in. I no longer have the whirring sound when clutch was pressed in and it was the bad throw out bearing. BUT the knocking from revving to 2000 rpm is still there!!

Just a recap: the knock happens in neutral,and when in gear and clutch pressed in and revved to 2k and gets louder the higher Rpm. Also when I'm driving and I clutch in before i throw it in another gear. For example; today after I put everything back together I drove around in 3rd gear then when I pressed the clutch while the Rpms were still high the knock was clear as day. As usual the knock still gets louder as the car warms up.

Now I'm starting to think that maybe my transmission is starting to go bad. As I remember when I was doing the clutch install I grabbed the input shaft of the transmission and rotated clockwise counterclockwise just to see if there was any wear or play I found that there was play. This play was just rotational. As I continued to rotate it and when I got to the end of the play of each direction I heard a similar knock if not the same knock I've been having all this time.

I'd like to know if there's supposed to be rotational play in the input shaft of a t5 transmission. Either way mine knocks and loud and is still driving me crazy!!

I appreciate all help so far and looking forward to what you guys think. For now..... I guess I'll go watch some knocking transmission videos on YouTube and see if they've solved it.

Thanks again.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:08 PM   #16
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Sounds like a bad input or output bearing. Could be the input shaft.

Drain the fluid and look for any metal flakes. If the fluid looks like glitter, you have a gear issue, likely caused by a bad bearing.

Just my observations.

I am facing a similar issue. My trans makes noise with the clutch pedal released, and stops when I press the pedal. I have a supercharger gear whine that is present in 1st through third, stops in 4th, and comes back at 5th gear.

I'm not happy about the thought of tearing into the transmission. Like you I plan to change the minimal and hope for the best.

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Old 08-29-2016, 11:21 AM   #17
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I checked the trans fluid yesterday, no flakes and put in new oil. I found this video last night and it's the same play and knock I have on mine I'll post the video now.

https://youtu.be/zGO4ie_kB8o


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 08-29-2016, 12:12 PM   #18
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I want to say that is a bad gear on the input shaft, but I am not 100% sure. I am looking forward to a few of the other answers people may provide.

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Old 08-29-2016, 01:08 PM   #19
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Yes please. I will keep looking for more answers and if the guy in the video has solved his problem aswell.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:22 PM   #20
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Well, after more extensive searching I've determined that the rattle isn't coming from the clutch. It's coming from inside the engine perhaps a lifter or something. I'll start a new thread to see if I can narrow it down even more. Gosh this noise is driving me crazy!
Thanks for all the help so far.


89 gt
5.0 roller bored .20 over
Sealed power Pistons
Vortec v3 11psi
Gt40 heads
Bbk 5001 intake
3.73 gears
Custom exhaust system
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