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Old 09-29-2016, 12:59 PM   #1
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Heads!!??!!

I'm wanting to run the GT40 heads. Any tech info or suggestions on better heads would be helpful. Here's what I've got.
1995 Mustang GT
.030 over bottom,
Stage 1 cam,
Holley SysteMax Intake,
Edelbrock Throttlebody,
Long Tube Headers,
Flowmaster 40 series with turnouts in front of the bank k tires,
H pipe.
410 gears
So that's the motor in a nutshell so ya have some motor specs to go on when talking about which head would be best suited. I'm thinking about putting the GT40 heads on it. Any thoughts or opinions would be cool. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:33 PM   #2
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What is a Stage one cam?

Secondly what is your budget?

My vote is for some TW170.

Buying a set of heads means you will need to order hardened pushrods, rocker arms, gaskets all around, head bolts..........it will all start to add up.
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Old 10-01-2016, 02:10 AM   #3
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Smurf Stang. Its a Trick Flow tfs1. Here are the specs on the cam.

Cam Specs
2,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./225 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 275
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 279
Advertised Duration: 275 int./279 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 int./0.510 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Camshaft Gear Attachment: 1-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible: Yes
Grind Number: HR-224/339-2S-12
Valve Springs Required: Yes
Lift w/ 1.6 rocker (intake/exhaust) - .499"/.510"
Lobe separation (degrees) - 112° ....

As far as budget goes I'm not rich by any means. But I'm willing to spend the money to make it better. I'm just trying to do it wisely and get the most bang for my buck. Without just breaking the bank. Ya know what I mean. With that said I'm thinking I am going to go with the GT40 heads and not the GT40p heads. Reason being the GT40 heads, are still much better than the stock 1995 heads currently on my 306, they have the spark plugs in the same position as my stock heads so it would be plug and play as far as my headers and exhaust go. If I throw a set of GT40p heads on it the plugs are more centered with the piston, producing a little better combustion, and the plugs are not angled. They are straight in. (plugs are 90° to the block whereas the GT40 plugs are more like on a 45° angle into the head instead of threading straight in.) If I go with the GT40p heads the headers that I'm currently running won't work with the way that the plugs go into the head. Then I'll have to pretty much change my entire exhaust around again requiring substantial money, again. So if I go with the GT40 Heads they will flow a lot better than the stock heads I'm currently running and let her breathe a little better. I also believe that the GT40 heads will be better suited to run with the cam and intake that I'm running now As opposed to running them with stock heads like I am at the moment. Now I know I'm not going to be getting a huge gain by changing these heads but I'm hoping to get a decent gain being that the GT40 Heads would let the cam and intake do their jobs a lot better than the stockers do. Thoughts, opinions on your end? I'm not a Great mechanic that knows a whole bunch. Just a guy that's trying to put together the best motor I can with the finances available a little at a time while still getting to drive her and have fun with it. It already runs pretty well with what's been done to it already. It pulls pretty hard and is pretty well respected around the neighborhood for what it is. Its only a .030 over 302. So with the small cubes I'm trying to put the work that I do to it in the right places to get the most out of my little pony motor. Gears were a tremendous addition after the motor work that's already been done. I'm also thinking that there's not much else I can do after I get these heads on there because I'll really be getting into the money then. So after the heads are on it I'm thinking thats it. It will be what it will be at that point. Bottom ends been done. Cam intake and heads will be done and I think that's going to be the end of the road for a long while. Time to just drive and enjoy the **** out of my little beast.. Again thanks for reading my novel and any opinion would be great... Thanks tspe2006

---------- Post added at 08:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 AM ----------

Smurf Stang. Its a Trick Flow tfs1. Here are the specs on the cam.

Cam Specs
2,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./225 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 275
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 279
Advertised Duration: 275 int./279 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 int./0.510 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Camshaft Gear Attachment: 1-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible: Yes
Grind Number: HR-224/339-2S-12
Valve Springs Required: Yes
Lift w/ 1.6 rocker (intake/exhaust) - .499"/.510"
Lobe separation (degrees) - 112° ....

As far as budget goes I'm not rich by any means. But I'm willing to spend the money to make it better. I'm just trying to do it wisely and get the most bang for my buck. Without just breaking the bank. Ya know what I mean. With that said I'm thinking I am going to go with the GT40 heads and not the GT40p heads. Reason being the GT40 heads, are still much better than the stock 1995 heads currently on my 306, they have the spark plugs in the same position as my stock heads so it would be plug and play as far as my headers and exhaust go. If I throw a set of GT40p heads on it the plugs are more centered with the piston, producing a little better combustion, and the plugs are not angled. They are straight in. (plugs are 90° to the block whereas the GT40 plugs are more like on a 45° angle into the head instead of threading straight in.) If I go with the GT40p heads the headers that I'm currently running won't work with the way that the plugs go into the head. Then I'll have to pretty much change my entire exhaust around again requiring substantial money, again. So if I go with the GT40 Heads they will flow a lot better than the stock heads I'm currently running and let her breathe a little better. I also believe that the GT40 heads will be better suited to run with the cam and intake that I'm running now As opposed to running them with stock heads like I am at the moment. Now I know I'm not going to be getting a huge gain by changing these heads but I'm hoping to get a decent gain being that the GT40 Heads would let the cam and intake do their jobs a lot better than the stockers do. Thoughts, opinions on your end? I'm not a Great mechanic that knows a whole bunch. Just a guy that's trying to put together the best motor I can with the finances available a little at a time while still getting to drive her and have fun with it. It already runs pretty well with what's been done to it already. It pulls pretty hard and is pretty well respected around the neighborhood for what it is. Its only a .030 over 302. So with the small cubes I'm trying to put the work that I do to it in the right places to get the most out of my little pony motor. Gears were a tremendous addition after the motor work that's already been done. I'm also thinking that there's not much else I can do after I get these heads on there because I'll really be getting into the money then. So after the heads are on it I'm thinking thats it. It will be what it will be at that point. Bottom ends been done. Cam intake and heads will be done and I think that's going to be the end of the road for a long while. Time to just drive and enjoy the **** out of my little beast.. Again thanks for reading my novel and any opinion would be great... Thanks tspe2006
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:56 AM   #4
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After spending $1000 on GT40 heads just go aftermarket. You can find a nice set of aluminum heads that flow much better for $1500 or less.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:56 PM   #5
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Think of the big picture.....how much will the heads cost?
How much for the machine shop to check them out?
New seals?
You will need new valve springs?
Figure you are at least $500 into them minimum. Why not score a set of used aluminum's for $700 to $800.
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:01 PM   #6
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I'm a little late to this party and maybe I could just ask a few questions about the motor.
What kind of pistons do you have and what is the piston dome/recess volume?
What was the deck height when the motor was put together?
There are a number of heads to choose from although I have always like TF and AFR heads on SBF's.
One word of caution on buying used aluminum heads...the aluminum does go soft over time and especially if they were used on a race car. If they go soft they make really nice wall hangers.

Six Budget Ford Heads That Work - Hot Rod Network
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:15 AM   #7
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RE heads

I have had good luck with the GT40x heads. They were cheap and worked on a budget 347. I ran 11.50's with a set with a mild cam, 3.73 gears, C-4, 26" slicks. Wanted to go faster so I had them ported, double springs, Bullet custom grind cam, 1.7 roller rocker, comp shorty roller lifters, tunnel ram, 3500 stall converter, back half with 9' with 4.10 gears, link, fuel cell, roll cage, tube k member and control arms, coil over conversion, manual r&p. 2800lbs with me in it. Now 10's with the GT40x heads. So it depends on what you want and your $. If I was to start over I would stroke a later model 351 to a 408. Go with a much better head and solid roller cam but it went from a daily driver to a weekend toy.
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:00 PM   #8
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Been there, done that with the GT40 heads. If you can get a set of irons that are FRESH as in literally all you have to do is bolt them on and go for $400-$500 then go for it. Any more $$$ into them then that and no.


Longtubes are good.


Throttle body=not needed at this power level


4.10s are good


Make sure you get a good shifter


Intake is ok but not the best. Honestly the Cobra/GT40 intake is great for GT40 heads.


I'd just go with TFS 170 aluminums if I were you, you can get them for $700-$900 used in real good shape.


And as was already said, you'll need new pushrods and you'll need to measure for proper pushrod length too.




Also... you could just sell this car and pick up a 96-98 GT and PI swap it... will be faster/more power than the GT40 build you want to do. Way easier to tune it as well and it'll look the same.
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:57 PM   #9
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The limiting factor on any Ford is the factory heads.
Sounds like you've got the car pretty much setup for the strip so sell the SBF and go for a 408 or bigger. I used an OE 71/74 block...has much more meat in the center web...and put in 4 bolt mains. Used an 850 reworked by The Carb Shop and flowed almost 1050CFM...custom soild roller from Brian Crower, 5000rpm loose converter and 4:56's...had a Powerglide by Mike's Trans in Lancaster...went 9.80's with me in a 3170 lb dry...3370 lb wet. Almost forgot, the heads were Trick Flow that had been massaged by Roush/Yates back in the 90's.
One word of caution about buying used aluminum heads...they do get used up and you really need to check the hardness before you pull the trigger.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:05 PM   #10
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Almost forgot a picture of the motor/heads.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:07 PM   #11
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Last time I bought heads for a pushrod before I got out of it for good I had them checked out by a local shop. Paid $700 for the heads and $100 for the checkout and they were 2,000 mile heads verified with a really recent receipt from the guy. He was putting Performer RPM heads on a 331 and obviously ran out of air so was upgrading.

Found/find that a lot with used parts on the web. People with too much money and not enough brains going through 2 or 3 combos before either figuring it out or selling it all off or paying someone who knows what they are doing to do it for them. Honestly I'd go as far as to say 50%+ of the aftermarket bread and butter is selling useless/wrong parts to dumbasses. Why places like AM exist. #shotsfired.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:09 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Almost forgot a picture of the motor/heads.
Thing belongs in a museum!





Lol JK. Awesome!
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:20 PM   #13
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Thing belongs in a museum!





Lol JK. Awesome!
For a museum piece it did lay down a respectable 650hp @ 6800 and 545lbft @ 5700...and that was with a single 850 carb.
Now the car is in New Zealand approaching 9.60's...one heck of a nice museum piece in my way of thinking...of course I'm twice your age and then some.
Going to take the ATS-V to the drags at the end of the month and see if I can break into the 11's...and then drive home in comfort with 3 other people in the car.
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:52 PM   #14
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Lol yeah tech these days... Run 11s in your daily that gets 35mpg.

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Old 06-22-2017, 11:00 PM   #15
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Lol yeah tech these days... Run 11s in your daily that gets 35mpg.

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Ain't technology great...haven't gotten 35mpg, most I've gotten is 16 around town and 23 on the hightway...guess my right foot gets kind of heavy a lot
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:19 PM   #16
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Well some ppl do with the LS motors lol.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:23 PM   #17
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I could understand with the LS motor although mine is a V6 with twin turbo's.
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:09 PM   #18
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I am still curious to know if a port, polish, and valve job will help the ol 4.6 2v.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:50 PM   #19
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Yes it can for sure. Ported PI heads will support upwards and over 700hp. Unported 4V heads both B, C and revised C will support more. Why I decided to stick with converting mine to 4V. Bone *** stock heads and bone *** stock cams will never need to be upgraded for what I want to do.

But... 4.6L needs boost. Period. End of story. NA they are meh, boosted they are spectacular.
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:04 PM   #20
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Yes it can for sure. Ported PI heads will support upwards and over 700hp. Unported 4V heads both B, C and revised C will support more. Why I decided to stick with converting mine to 4V. Bone *** stock heads and bone *** stock cams will never need to be upgraded for what I want to do.

But... 4.6L needs boost. Period. End of story. NA they are meh, boosted they are spectacular.
As much as I like a supercharger, I will always have love for a naturally aspirated engine. I agree that the 4.6 is limited though.

With the exception of my drag bikes, making power with computer controlled cars is still new to me. They are simple in theory (and in practice if you know what you're doing), but I'm still learning.
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:07 PM   #21
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Olerodder and I are likely familiar with the same engine platforms. I have a feeling he may be 25-30 years older than I am.
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:38 AM   #22
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I'm older than dirt and have a shirt to prove it!
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:19 PM   #23
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I'm older than dirt and have a shirt to prove it!
Has the shirt deteriorated?
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