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Old 02-15-2017, 09:40 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
The crank you have is an 87 to 92 and I would assume it should have the 50 oz. damper not the 28 oz.

Did this motor run before you rebuilt it?

I've always internally balanced 289/302/351w motors since most of my motors used a non OEM crank/rod/pistons...for what it's worth.



Read this article;



The Secret to Balancing Small-Block Fords - Hot Rod Network

Motor barely ran due to the fact that it had a bent rod when I first bought it.

When my new crank gets here tomorow I'll check the numbers on it to have an idea of what balancer I will need. Gonna see how much it's gonna be to balance the rotating assembly tomorrow as well. Still gotta find out the imbalance of the flywheel as it has no marks on it at all.
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:14 PM   #37
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What new crank did you buy????
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Old 02-16-2017, 11:18 PM   #38
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What new crank did you buy????
Got crank i bought from the machine shop the same one as the last: e7ae-aa. told them to send me a crank for a 89 mustang 302. came with a ticket saying: p .010 m .010

I'm guessing thats how much was shaved off. it came with new bearings for crank and rods. got a new oil pump too. waiting on my arp hardened pump shaft. block was magna fluxed, good no cracks. i was scared before i sent it because what i thought was a fracture was just a casting mark according to the machine shop. i was thinking of going with a girdle to help reinforce the block. i showed them my balancer and told them about what happened. they said that the previous owner changed the balancer with the wrong one,28oz and i ended up re using it and caused the damage. they said to use a 50oz balancer. i forgot to ask them about my flywheel and will ask them tomorrow to be sure.

I'm gonna go with a new cam, I've heard good things about the tfs1 cam, don't really have enough in the budget for a custom one at the moment.

thats where I'm at so far. will keep y'all posted.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:57 AM   #39
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I can't wait until I'm knowledgeable enough to think of pulling an engine as a mere annoyance. I know this is completely unrelated to the post and all. Sorry lol
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:33 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Haav2 View Post
Got crank i bought from the machine shop the same one as the last: e7ae-aa. told them to send me a crank for a 89 mustang 302. came with a ticket saying: p .010 m .010

I'm guessing thats how much was shaved off. it came with new bearings for crank and rods. got a new oil pump too. waiting on my arp hardened pump shaft. block was magna fluxed, good no cracks. i was scared before i sent it because what i thought was a fracture was just a casting mark according to the machine shop. i was thinking of going with a girdle to help reinforce the block. i showed them my balancer and told them about what happened. they said that the previous owner changed the balancer with the wrong one,28oz and i ended up re using it and caused the damage. they said to use a 50oz balancer. i forgot to ask them about my flywheel and will ask them tomorrow to be sure.

I'm gonna go with a new cam, I've heard good things about the tfs1 cam, don't really have enough in the budget for a custom one at the moment.

thats where I'm at so far. will keep y'all posted.
10/10 means that the rods were ground 0.010" under and the mains were also ground the same.
I would assume if the machine shop had all the parts they would have noticed the wrong damper and told you.
Did the machine shop check the main bore to make sure it was within tolerance????
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:44 AM   #41
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Just one thought about main girdles...unless the block is line honed with the girdle torqued in place when you put the girdle on it will distort the mains.
Kind of like honing the cylinders without a torque plate bolted to the block.
A decade or so ago when main girdles first came out I tried one after a motor had been machined...it was at a very knowledgeable race shop in Northern California...we torqued the girdle on and came up with 0.0010 out of spec...did it again and again and again with each time coming up with a different out of spec reading. Kind of like buying a a new cam...do you ever check to make sure the cam is straight or do you just assume it's straight...assuming when putting parts in a motor is like playing Russian Roulette...IMHO
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:42 PM   #42
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Just one thought about main girdles...unless the block is line honed with the girdle torqued in place when you put the girdle on it will distort the mains.
Kind of like honing the cylinders without a torque plate bolted to the block.
A decade or so ago when main girdles first came out I tried one after a motor had been machined...it was at a very knowledgeable race shop in Northern California...we torqued the girdle on and came up with 0.0010 out of spec...did it again and again and again with each time coming up with a different out of spec reading. Kind of like buying a a new cam...do you ever check to make sure the cam is straight or do you just assume it's straight...assuming when putting parts in a motor is like playing Russian Roulette...IMHO
totally agree, gotta check everything twice. I'm guilty of slapping on parts w/out sending them in to be checked but i at lease try to do extensive research and reviews of the manufacture before even buying. btw, machine shop checked the mains, block integrity, installed new freeze plugs and seals. gave me all new arp bolts for everything! gonna send the heads to be ported and re done once i choose the cam for this build and get some more money together. Also they said my fly wheel matches up to the crank and balancer. every things looking good so far, I'm keeping a close eye for any problems.
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