After finishing my motor build I noticed that my accessory Belt is rubbing at the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. After driving it for at least 4 to 5 miles the voltage meter in the Dash goes down a bit, power steering gets a little bit hard, and car starts to die at stoplights. I'm thinking that the belt heats up and expands to the point where the touching spots at wtr pump and tensioner make too much resistance and slows down the speed leading to my car dying at stoplights, harder steering etc...
Before my rebuild I had ac.
Now I have a billet ac delete pulley kit from upr in it's place. I'm also running a vortech v3, so my alternator is on the bottom left side,under my smog pump delete pulley.
Here's a pic of what I mean.
Let me know if this is a common problem when using an AC delete pulley. Should I just put the pwr steering pump in its place?
Those tensioner pulleys usually move up and down. If you could find a belt just an inch shorter wouldn't that push the pulley up and give you clearance where the belt rubs against itself? Just a thought. Other than that a smaller pulley on the tensioner.
I pulled The tensioner off I couldn't find any adjustment screws or anything like that. I just saw a small peg that goes in the hole on the other side that the tensioner bolts onto. I'm gonna try looking for a smaller pulley for the tensioner, hopefully I can find one at autozone or advance auto parts.
Hey guys, sorry for the late responsive. I've been testing many options like 4 different belt sizes, two different tensioner pulleys and no luck. I finally ended up taking the tensioner off the bracket and saw a pin from the tensioner that goes in a hole. I drilled another hole a 1/4" lower and put the pin in there making the tensioner shift its position up a little. I was able to use the same tensioner pulley as before too. So far the car doesn't shut off and steering wheel doesn't get hard to turn. Thanks for all the suggestions!!
Sorry for the lengthy delay. Here are some pics of the tensioner re-positioning. The belt no longer rubs on itself. Sadly, the car still shuts off at stop lights after driving a few miles.
Perhaps it could be a sensor? I noticed that the coolant temp sensor has an identical plug right next to it, so I switch the plugs for s&g's. So far it idles smoother but that could be temporary
Don't know if it's related or not but when my headlights are on and I turn the fan on full blast in the interior the car starts to sputter then shuts off within seconds.
Sorry for the lengthy delay. Here are some pics of the tensioner re-positioning. The belt no longer rubs on itself. Sadly, the car still shuts off at stop lights after driving a few miles. View attachment 238025
Perhaps it could be a sensor? I noticed that the coolant temp sensor has an identical plug right next to it, so I switch the plugs for s&g's. So far it idles smoother but that could be temporary View attachment 238041
Don't know if it's related or not but when my headlights are on and I turn the fan on full blast in the interior the car starts to sputter then shuts off within seconds.
When I did a battery relo I had a terrible voltage problem even after I upgraded my alt. It turned out to be crappy ground straps. I replaced the OEM ground straps with some that I made and made sure that they were secured attached to clean thick steel. Also the ground cable I made was out of 0 gauge wire and as short as possible.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mustang Evolution Forum
2.1M posts
50.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, horsepower, modifications, troubleshooting, racing, and more!