I recently bought my car eat mustang and I fell in love! But after driving it for a few days I noticed that the acceleration was pretty slow. The car struggles I will be flooring it and the rpm will go up slow then struggle, bounce back and forth before finally shifting up. The check engine light will also turn on randomly for a few seconds then turn off when I either come to a stop or it will just randomly turn off. Please help!
Best bet is to run your codes first off as it is free and might sign some light onto your problem as it could be a million things.
Since you just bought the car a little TLC is probably needed like wires, plugs, oil change, filter, fuel filter, check for vacuum leaks, set timing.....
Your car is OBD1, you can check the codes yourself with a jumper (paper clip will do). That's the place to start, along with the aforementioned basic tune up.
Your car is OBD1, you can check the codes yourself with a jumper (paper clip will do). That's the place to start, along with the aforementioned basic tune up.
Auto? Could be a problem with the trans TBTH. The autos till mid 1997 were all pretty terrible in stock form. It doesn't help that the 94/95 factory tunes are really REALLY bad and the heads/intake on those cars choke the hell out of the 302.
I sound negative as hell don't I? I had a 95, but it was a Cobra. I honestly would not buy a 94/95 Mustang unless it was a Cobra tbth.
make sure you use hi octane fuel or the check engine light will light up and the car will run badly. You might need a complet tune up! You can also clean the MAF sensor with the special cleaner FOR MAF! Dont use carburator cleaner or you will damage the MAF sensor. You can also clean the trottle body intake with carburator cleaner but with a cloth , dont spray inside or you mignt blow the oxygen sensor after!
You have a nice 5.0 Mustang ! When it's fixed, you will enjoy it ! I know, I have one !!!!
The car will run fine on 87 with the timing set to the stock 10 degrees. Regular gas will not cause a CEL... Oxygen sensors are not located in the intake tract...
Suggest you get some real world experience with these cars before giving advice.
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I have tested and I have experience the story with regular gas, check engine!!!! and carburator cleaner that damages oxygen sensor !!! I have had Mustang since 1988 ! IT'S my third Mustang!! And I am 51 years old with alot of experience !!! I do not post just for the fun of posting ! You should geat some real world experience before insulting people !!!! What is the point of *****ing people who are trying to help!!!!! :banghead::nonono:
Uh huh. 87 octane will not throw a cel by itself, these cars are tuned to run on regular. Oxygen sensors are in the exhaust. Carb cleaner can damage the maf element, not the O2 sensor.
Try to help sure, but know your tech and proper terminology before giving out advice.
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Uh huh. 87 octane will not throw a cel by itself, these cars are tuned to run on regular. Oxygen sensors are in the exhaust. Carb cleaner can damage the maf element, not the O2 sensor.
Why is there a link to silicone spray on a throttle blade arm/spring? That isn't even remotely what is being talked about. Also the MAF element isn't in the TB... I'm not even sure what is going on right now...
Anyway... back to being helpful to the original poster...
Codes first, do a tuneup if you have not already, clean the MAF element (not o2 sensor) with MAF spray (not silicone spray), check all your basic maintenance items etc...
As I said the automatics in these older GTs were not very good, could be as simple as a sensor issue or could be a problem internally with the engine or trans. The good news is the 5.0 pushrod is very easy to work on and parts are all over the place. Also you can use 99-04 V6 automatics without too much modification for the 94/95 cars and they are much much stronger.
The bad news is 94/95 cars were kind of "bastard" years. There are a lot of specific "gotchas" with these cars from the 94/95 specific parts, the really crazy conservative tunes, the AODE for those years (and 96 and most of 97) were prone to failure and to be totally honest they are all pretty damn slow without a good deal of modification. Even my 95 Cobra bone stock with 40k miles on it when I got it in 2003 was a dog till I dug into it.
lol it's a car guy thing. Start tackling the codes that showed up. Even after that's done, like Scotty said :::TUNE UP::: it'll surprise you how much better the car will drive with just some fresh fluids. Good luck to you ?
632 and 536 are test error codes. Because you didn't depress the brake pedal, and turn off the overdrive. You can disregard those two.
312 is related to the Thermactor system. I'm not exactly sure what the cause of that code is, but I would start the diagnosis by inspecting all of the vacuum lines for any cracks or damage that could be causing leaks.
Another possible cause is a failed/missing air pump. Along with any number of failed valves or solenoid.
Because of the driveability problem, I would definitely focus my attention on all of the vacuum lines related to the Thermactor AIR system first though.
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