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Time to start the Resto 91GT

31K views 67 replies 7 participants last post by  tsidewayz 
#1 ·
Hey, Stangers. Well, finally going to get started my next project. Getting my 12 GT to the point where I can focus on something else. Not to mention the wife's been asking me to get my one owner, me, 91Gt back on the road. I purchase it new in the summer of 1990. It was a grocery getter for the first few years of its life. Then a daily driver beast for me for another few. It had a fiberglass Daytona Jr. front end. In the late 90's it was restricted to weekend track duty with a stock lower end, Edelbrock heads, intake, Accufab Tbody, 1.7 RRs and a little bit of nitrous. Its a manual car with HP Mototrsports Mega bite rear LCAs, 373s off road exhaust, BBK CAI, FMS lowering springs. In about 2002 my son was getting close to driving so I pulled it all apart to return it to stock. Well, no initiative from him and I said forget it. So it sat since then.

I now have a ton of parts I've collected over the years waiting for this moment. The majority of the interior has faded so I've order all new interior pieces all the weather stripping. In addition to fading some mice have called it home for who knows how long.

I have a 347 with ported and polished World Parts Windsor Jr. heads. Just got my Cobra intake back from TMoss with a major port and weld job.

Look for photos soon in "My Garage"
 
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#30 ·
Received the MM K member and 4 wheel disc brakes 5 lug conversion from North Race cars this week. I haven't torn out the stock K member yet. Probably going to get it out this week. Cut axle housings for C clip eliminators. Prepping the calipers for paint. Been considering the same yellow as the rear suspension parts I painted. Im looking at the SVE Series 1 wheels in black, gold or white. Not sure how the yellow calipers will look with those wheels.
 

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#31 ·
Nice!
 
#32 ·
I decided that it would be quicker, more cost effective and more durable to have the K member and control arms powder coated yellow instead of painting them myself. The shop said I need to have the ball joints removed first. My question is... once they are pressed out can they be reused?
Waiting on more Eastwood 2K two part primer to finish up the calipers.
 
#33 ·
Yes. You can reinstall the ball joints after they have been pressed out. You will know if they are going to be too loose, by the way that they go back in. If they just slip right in with very little resistance, a common trick is to spot weld them to the control arm.
When I install ball joints, I put the ball joints in the freezer for a few hours, and set the control arms out in the hot sunshine before pressing in the ball joints. This shrinks the ball joints and expands the control arm, making it easier to press the joints in, while avoiding stretching of the steel control arm.
 
#34 ·
Good tip. Thanks.
 
#35 ·
This weekends plan is to install the rear end with the new 5 lug axles with C clip eliminators and Cobra rear disc brakes. Had one of my part time guys scrub the underbody with a scotchbrite pad to knock of the dirt and scuff up the surface for some paintable undercoating. After the under coating I sprayed gray anti rock chip paint over it. I've only done the back half so far. After I get the rear suspension back in I still have the jacking rails and ladder braces to weld in before I paint that area as well.
 

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#37 ·
Picked up front K member from being powder coated. Looks good. I wish MM offered alternate colors. Maybe they do but I didn't order it from hem directly. Got to work on the rear suspension this weekend. C clip eliminator axles in. Mocked up the rear disc brakes. Looks good. Decided to paint the rotors. Pics show them not finished as of yet. Still need to remove the paint from the braking surface.
 

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#38 ·
well, not much progress as of late. Took the family on vacation and been a little busy at work. Been considering and finally have decided to add a some forced induction. I've always been impressed with the Kenne Bell blowers for a long time. Been reading up on the pros and con with centrifugal blowers as well. I'm not looking for max HP. Just something that's reliable and not terribly difficult to set up. I know that there are millions opinions but I am interested in them.
Thoughts?
 
#39 ·
Probably better off getting a used Vortech unit as the KB as not nearly as efficient and they gave up on the old pushrod 5.0 long ago.
 
#40 ·
I get what you are saying. I had a couple friends with the KB back in the mid 90's and I just love the way they respond off throttle and the easy of installation
makes it appealing. There is a speed shop near me that has made arraignments to have 30 units made for the early 5.0's. I went ahead and pre-purchased one. I had already planned a small nitrous kit so I'll redirect that energy towards cooling intake air temps.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Been a little while since I updated. Still waiting on the Kenne Bell blower. Hoping for an update and delivery date tomorrow.
Rear suspension and under body all painted. Needed to get the car off the lift so I can get my 12 GT ready for smog.
I mounted some Weld Prostar 15x10 wheels on the back. Well, they rub on the brake calipers. Read a bunch out grinding this and that but not really interested in grinding anything. I put a 5mm spacer but that wasn't enough. Tried adding washers that were about 2.5mm and still rubbing. It clears with the two 5mm spacers. So I think at this point my best option is to use a 10mm+ spacer. I'm not comfortable with the amount of lug stud threads that I'll be sacrificing so I'll be pulling the axles to install longer studs and a spacer.
I am open to other suggestions that don't involve purchasing different wheels. I like the wheels and even with the spacer they don't stick out much at all.
 

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#42 ·
been awhile not a whole lot of progress as of late. The front K member has been replaced with the MM K member. Should be getting all the suspension mounted up within the next few weeks. I just need to powder coat the control arms first. The Kenne Bell Blowzilla should be shipping next week. I have since decided to go with a big bore Dart SHP block for fear of the stock block coming apart under the boost. Since I'm doing that I figured I'd bump up to the 363. I'm also gonna lose the World Parts Iron heads and go with an aluminum set. I'm not sure what set I'm gonna go with at this point. Any suggestions. Need to pass Ca. smog.
 
#43 ·
Pretty sure AFR has 50 state legal heads. Good call on the DART block, a stroker with a blower with a stock block is just futile... might as well just leave the engine stock and supercharge it as the block is still the weak point.

For the heads... get in touch with Ed Curtis at FTI and have him spec you a head/cam combo and you should be good to go there.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestion... I'll reach out to him. I'll need to pick the heads/cam then the pitons for a suitable compression ratio and valve clearance. Ill need a set of pistons to step up to 363.
I know the must thing to do is to go with the Dart block. So that's necessary money. From there the money starts to fall in the prudent category. I don't need to squeeze out every last drop of HP but I don't want to waste an opportunity by not taking advantage of the combo.
 
#46 ·
It finally arrived. Brand new Kenne Bell Blowzilla. Been waiting a long time for it to show up. Now that its here I can order the appropriate cam and pistons.
 

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#48 ·
Get it running ZOMG! Can't wait to see it, like I said at the start of this thread, 91GT was my first Stang and would love to see a survivor done proper.
 
#49 ·
Been looking at getting a transmission to handle the horsepower. Locally got a couple options. Been considering a TKO 600 or a T56. There are couple options locally. I cant get my hands on a new 10 spline Ford Cobra T56 for about $2K or a 14K mile TKO 600 for $1400. I already plan on getting a safety bell housing regardless.
 
#50 ·
Don't run a TKO unless you like shifting a dumptruck. If you can afford it get a Magnum. If not I'd strongly consider an Astro A5.

Sent from my COR-L29 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#51 ·
Everything is out of stock. I asked them about an Astro A5. I was told that all the parts that they were waiting on for the last 7 months have already been pre-purchased and couldn't give me a time frame when I could expect to be able to get one. Otherwise, yes, I would consider an A5.
 
#52 ·
Can't get a magnum anywhere? Have you considered a built automatic? Car will be faster with the auto. Silverfox does real good AODs or you can convert to a AODE/4R.
 
#53 · (Edited)
Well, the Magnum, quick time bell housing and clutch kit I ordered from LMR arrived a couple days ago. Now my question is.... does the hydraulic clutch kit make a big difference in the pedal effort easier and is it worth the extra $$$$?

Also, anybody in Nor Cal know of an engine builder that can build and dyno my motor?

Thanks,
 
#54 ·
Not sure about that particular combination, but in general, yes, a hydraulic clutch is typically noticeably easier to use than the cable actuated variety.

So what are you thinking about doing, regarding the engine?
Are you going to purchase a block, rotating assembly, heads, etc, and then take them to someone and have them assemble it?
Or are you just going to find someone to supply all of the parts and do the assembly, and furnish an engine built to your specifications?
 
#55 ·
Well, I have a almost everything for the engine already including the Kenne Bell blower. I am considering upgrading the rods but haven't decided on them yet. I do need pistons and a cam. I figured I'd have the shop that's doing the work help figure out the best pistons for the combo. I'd like to have the combo built and dyno'd as well.
 
#58 ·
I've built quite a few in the past but nothing to this level and was going to build the motor for this project but it kind of got out. I'm gonna have $12k-$15k into this combo and not gonna take chance just to save a few bucks. I want this thing done right.
 
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