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Old 07-29-2005, 01:54 PM   #1
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Help With Painting Engine Pieces

Ok, I am still chaning my mind back and forth about which blower upgrade to make on my car (KB or port the eaton), and I found some pics that I would like to recreate on my car. The pics are attached. In the best of your knowledge, what kind of paint would be needed to make my eaton look like this? I am really leaning towards porting as I know if I get the KB, I will never be happy with my HP level and keep getting smaller pullies till I hit 700 at the wheels or blow something up. 550 from the port and some tweaks will be good enough I think.

Anyhow, what kind of paint should I look for and any advice on how to make it look as pimp as the pics? Thanks. :beer:
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:42 PM   #2
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I just read the guys original post about painting his SC and he states he used flat black enamel and it was properly prepared. Ok, since he won't respond to me, anyone have suggestions on brands of pain and what exactly does properly prepared mean?
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:45 PM   #3
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o/t, but you can attach pictures? I don't even have the option since the new vBulletin...

nvm, it's in the advanced reply...
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:51 PM   #4
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Yes I can...I am special I guess.

Ok, I am doing some research, and I was thinking VHT Hi Heat Black would work http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...p?T1=DH1602+01 . But I am still a little unsure of the "prepared properly" concept. Also open to any other pain suggestions.
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:58 PM   #5
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you powdercoat stuff like that, just send it to a powerdercoater. I know diskbrakesrus.com does powdercoating and they are VERY good... not sure if they only do brakes though.
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:09 PM   #6
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Corey powdercoats, does he not?
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:12 PM   #7
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Hmm, how hot is a powder coating oven? Not sure if I would want to put the SC in there. I don't know what kind of parts are on the inside. If it was just a case, then ok, but it would be the rotors, bearing, etc, etc, and anything else that is on the inside of one. Wouldn't want anything to soften due to the heat, change shape, or flat out melt.
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:20 PM   #8
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Dude everything metal can be put in a oven. You jst have to remove seals. Brake calipers are powdercoated . Pistons are persformance coated and placed in a oven.

I work with MPcoating to powdercoat everything. I get a discount and take care of shipping for them. I make nothing in the deal. I can provide world class coatings cheaper than anyone. I do all the prep and bead blasting myself saving on the cost also.

http://www.mpcoatings.com/

Here is a pick of a supercharger and valve covers MPS did in a near chrome powdercoat The pic also shows the Ceramic ccoating he does on Headers which is half the cost of JET HOT!!!!
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:27 PM   #9
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So would this mean that the internals of my eaton would have to come out? I don't know what seals and such are in there but I am sure there is something since it is a self lubricating system. There has to be some sort of seal, gasket, something. Would you agree?
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:29 PM   #10
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I agree but I will check with Wayne the owner of MPS to be sure. I have a bunch of stuff to pick up monday and send out that he has done.
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:31 PM   #11
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That would be great. Thanks.

In the mean time, just in case power coating turns into a major project of having to take apart the blower and such, anyone have paint and prep suggestions for the desired effect?
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:52 PM   #12
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i know you can get your blower in chrome or polished, if its chrome you can find out what they remove to do it... its probably just polished so that wont help you much.
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:54 PM   #13
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It's just polished.
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:58 PM   #14
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good excuze to have it polished... it will be apart probably (inside parts)
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Old 07-29-2005, 05:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
good excuze to have it polished... it will be apart probably (inside parts)
Actually, it will be coming off to get ported. I don't want it polished as I don't have anything else under the hood that is chromey or polished. In fact, I am not a fan of that look. I want to go with the flat black look like the pics. The only difference will be the Ford and SVT lettering will be in redfire to match the pullies and the car.

When they do the port work, I don't believe they will be disassembling the SC either. It is only a port of the intake and exhaust openings, and nothing internal to the SC. I don't want this thing to come apart by my hands. If it doesn't cost anything for someone else to rip it down and put it back together, that is cool. I don't want to be the one to do it tho. I would also have to be very convinced that the disassembler is not going to funk something up too.

In summary, if the thing needs to be disassembled, it will be painted and not coated.
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Old 07-29-2005, 05:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurfin
Actually, it will be coming off to get ported. I don't want it polished as I don't have anything else under the hood that is chromey or polished. In fact, I am not a fan of that look. I want to go with the flat black look like the pics. The only difference will be the Ford and SVT lettering will be in redfire to match the pullies and the car.

When they do the port work, I don't believe they will be disassembling the SC either. It is only a port of the intake and exhaust openings, and nothing internal to the SC. I don't want this thing to come apart by my hands. If it doesn't cost anything for someone else to rip it down and put it back together, that is cool. I don't want to be the one to do it tho. I would also have to be very convinced that the disassembler is not going to funk something up too.

In summary, if the thing needs to be disassembled, it will be painted and not coated.

Why paint does not last. If fuel or anything oil based gets on it it will look like ***. Then it would look nastier than if you had left it alone. Powdercoat is what the factory uses on valve covers and let me tell you. it is a pain to get of even with a bead blaster. powdercoating is uneffected by fuel or oil. it is also scratch resistant which is why it is so good. On regular paint once it is scratched it peels. Do what you want but dont screw up your blower or you will be sorry.
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Old 07-29-2005, 05:32 PM   #17
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Honestly, I would rather go the coating route as like you say, it will be a more permanant type of covering. My concern is with taking the internals out of the eaton. I am a beginner to this ripping things apart and putting them back together thing, so I don't want to be the one to rip it apart and put it together. At the same time, the way it sits right now, everything is correct. If someone takes it apart, and maybe doesn't get a good seal for some reason, or mis torques a bolt or whatever, the damage would be much more costly than if some gas or oil got on the painted surface.

Basically, a botched assemble = boucoup bucks.
The slight chance something corrosive gets on the SC and plenum, the fix costs $12 for paint and some time. Much lower risk in my mind.

Besides, with the location of my SC, what could possibly get on it beside a little water from washing? If the surface is prepped properly, the paint should stick just fine. Which leads to the second part of my original post, what exactly is proper preparation.

Either way, I am curious as to what you may find out on monday. This isn't exactly a "I'm doing it next week" type of thing as I am waiting for billetflow to start making their throttle body's again so I can match it with my pullies as well as have it custom engraved.

I think I will post over on SVTP and see what might be involved to have it coated as well. Maybe all this back and forth is for nothing. Being un edumacated as I am, I don't know what would be required.
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Old 07-29-2005, 06:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurfin
Honestly, I would rather go the coating route as like you say, it will be a more permanant type of covering. My concern is with taking the internals out of the eaton. I am a beginner to this ripping things apart and putting them back together thing, so I don't want to be the one to rip it apart and put it together. At the same time, the way it sits right now, everything is correct. If someone takes it apart, and maybe doesn't get a good seal for some reason, or mis torques a bolt or whatever, the damage would be much more costly than if some gas or oil got on the painted surface.

Basically, a botched assemble = boucoup bucks.
The slight chance something corrosive gets on the SC and plenum, the fix costs $12 for paint and some time. Much lower risk in my mind.

Besides, with the location of my SC, what could possibly get on it beside a little water from washing? If the surface is prepped properly, the paint should stick just fine. Which leads to the second part of my original post, what exactly is proper preparation.

Either way, I am curious as to what you may find out on monday. This isn't exactly a "I'm doing it next week" type of thing as I am waiting for billetflow to start making their throttle body's again so I can match it with my pullies as well as have it custom engraved.

I think I will post over on SVTP and see what might be involved to have it coated as well. Maybe all this back and forth is for nothing. Being un edumacated as I am, I don't know what would be required.
I will look into the eaton illustrated parts breakdown and look at what is in there that is rubber. I would take it apart for you if I lived near you. I am sure it would need to come apart.
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