Hello from a fellow Long Islander, now transplanted to the DE beach. Your picture by the Jones Beach Toll Plaza brings back great memories of Beach Boys and Jimmy Buffett concerts in the 80's and 90's. This post is long and I will send in sections. Sorry, but I really do need your help.
Anyway, enough old memories, you seem to be the guru re: the mach 460 audio system. My questions are simple and concise. The Mach 460 in my 2003 GT convertible is completely stock so there are no compatability issues in the mix.
However, like so many others about 3 weeks ago my woofers stopped producing any sound. All 4 tweeters (mirror mounts in front and top 2 drivers in back) still work, just no bottom anywhere. It is worthy of note that it was a very rainy winter here in Lower Slower DE, and the inside of my car was wet alot. The convertible top leaks, and water collects in vinyl that covers the amps and convertible top motor.
Additionally, several times during the winter I got very loud "blats" which sounded like feedback loops through the stereo during rainy or damp weather. I would shut the stereo off, and the problem would go away after the weather and car dried out some. The blats would not cut off when the stereo was turned off, but would fade out. I suspect this was the coil and caps in the amp discharging.
Useful information about the workings, and particularly the wiring/pinouts for these 460 units is scant, and what is available is often incorrect. Troubleshooting without knowing what does what is darn near impossible.
My questions are these
1) Is/are there fuse(s) on the power source lines to theses amps?
2) If so where is/are it/they?
3) Which color wires are the 12 volt power sources for these amps?
4) Does the 12 volt power source feed through the small connector toward the back of the car or the larger connector toward the from of the car?
5)Which color wires are the 12 volt power sources for these amps in the connector under the kick plate just aft of the hood release?
6) Which color wires are the audio inputs for these amps?
7) Does the audio feed through the small connector toward the back of the car or the larger connector toward the from of the car?
5)Which color wires are the audio input feeds for these amps in the connector under the kick plate just aft of the hood release?
I realize these are common problems and questions, and your answers may help a lot of other people. As such, please feel free to post this as a thread.
Thank you in advance. Enjoy the beach this summer, memorial day is just a few weeks away.
If your top is leaking and water is collecting I am nearly definite sure that the amps are now fried. The "blat" sound could be caused by many reasons, but if water is collecting in the amp try then those amps are just sitting in a puddle and when the car turns on, well it just becomes bad news.
Are you getting audio still? Or is it just a turn on "blat" sound only when it is wet? I could also a test this too when you turn the car on the amp gets a 12 volt signal. The sitting water creates a shortcut between the 12v and audio wires and thus when the 12v signal comes through it also passes through the water and through the speaker lines and finally popping the speakers. As a general audio troubleshooting method, when I would try to determine speaker polarity and/or testing speakers, I would attach a 9v battery to the speaker leads and this would "pop" the speaker and give a similar popping sound. You don't have to do this, I'm just giving an example.
As per your specific questions:
1) There looks to be 4 specific fuses related to the audio: Fuse 6 (20 Amp), 27 (20A), 32 (15) (These go into the radio) and Fuse 9
(30A) (which goes to the subwoofer front/rear amps), and Fuses 13, 15
(30A) (subwoofer amps in the luggage compartment MACH 1000 Subwoofers) [this is actually the fuse panel under the hood and is for the Mach 1000 system).
2) These should be the interior fuse panel. Here is the 2003 Owner's Manual (.pdf) which includes the fuse panel description. You can skip down to pages 118-123
I also suggest if the problem may be a blown fuse, but a person is troubleshooting the fuse responsible, then the person should replace a few fuses. I've come across fuses and although they are labeled for one electrical component, it is somehow tied into another unlabeled electrical component and one fuse could affect either. For example Fuse A
is for the Radio and Fuse B
is for the interior light. The interior lights go out but Fuse B
is fine but as you check the other fuses you just happen to notice Fuse A
is blown and you replace it. As a result the interior lights work again because they were somehow tied into each other. Even though this is not all too common I've seen it happen.
3) I'm unsure of the wire colors, but I believe at least one 12v wire is going to be Lt. Bl./Red and/or Red/Lt. Blue. Additionally you can check the "5, 7, & 5" answer I gave.
4 & 7) I'm not really sure which connector you are talking about.
5, 7, & 5) I'm attaching a wiring diagram and you can pull some colors from there. I also grabbed the colors the12volt.com gave which is fairly accurate but I can not guarantee it
Originally Posted by www.the12volt.com
| RADIO 12V|lt. green/violet | |at the radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black | |at the radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|black/pink | |at the radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|lt. blue/red |+ |at the radio |
| POWER ANTENNA|orange/lt. blue |+ |at the radio |
| LF SPEAKER|orn/grn - blu/wht | |at speaker or amplifier *5 |
| RF SPEAKER|wht/grn - grn/orn | |at speaker or amplifier *5 |
| LR SPEAKER|gry/blu - tan/yel | |at speaker or amplifier *5 |
| RR SPEAKER|orn/red - brn/pnk | |at speaker or amplifier *5 |
I am attaching some .pdf's that display the audio system wiring diagram. As with the wire colors I can not guarantee they are 100% accurate. They are from the 2003 Ford Mustang Shop Manual however.
Like I said before, I would fix the leak before the radio otherwise the problem will persist.