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Old 01-26-2012, 06:36 PM   #1
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Exclamation Ah! Please Help!

Ive recently installed a sub in my 2001 V6 coupe (basic sound system no mach) we got everything working and all of a sudden the amp loses power! Im not sure whats going on here. We think its the trip that turns the amp on which we put in the fuse box in the car. (Called the remote lead wire) where is the best place to wire that so the amp is always triggered to turn on? I know my amp isnt bad and i know the sub works. please help! I can send a picture of where the wire is curently located if you would like! Thanks guys!
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:58 PM   #2
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for the remote line it should be connected to the remote line goin from the back of your stereo.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:00 PM   #3
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

12v Switched power source from the radio.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:09 PM   #4
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How do i know what wire it is?
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:32 PM   #5
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the remote wire is bright blue
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:35 PM   #6
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

Umm the main power wire is switched (ignition). Red/Orange was usually my colors...IDK what mustangs are, havent gotten that far yet lol Remote it to your 12v power wire, everytime you turn ON/OFF the radio it kills power to Amp
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:38 PM   #7
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So is it blue or orange? And where is this located? Right behind my had unit? I have the power lines for the amp running up through the drivers side. and were talking a small wire correct? I curently have it in a fuse to piggy back it
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:42 PM   #8
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thats the power line for just the stereo from what i remember from my installs. for the amp a power line is hooked to the battary, a ground and the remote wire(blue wire)that runs from the stereo and is low power and it just tells the amp to turn on

---------- Post added at 08:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 PM ----------

the remote wire is like 20 gauge so real small
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:43 PM   #9
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Thank you, tomorrow were going to fix it up! Ill repost if more problems come up
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:44 PM   #10
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the remote wire is part of the main harness attached to the back of the stereo
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:55 PM   #11
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

Would be nice to know your type of stereo system and setup. Manufacturers tend to label their systems to make them user friendly for the most part. If you are running an after market stereo it the remote wire would be labeled "remote." If not, then run a process of elimination. Here goes nothing.
1. You may already have the correct remote wire attached.
2. Verify that the ground to the amp is secured to a viable part of the vehicle chassis, very important.
3. Ground wire should be as short as possible, but allow for routing to closest ground.
3. Check hot wire (pos +) connection to battery. Bottom line ensure that it is not exposed to the chassis causing a short; very bad.
4. For safety sake move your fuse under the hood closer to the battery, if you have'nt already done so.
5. Identify the size of your amp by watts that is. Why? because modern amps are designed to shut off when voltage gets too low. This happens even with smart capacitors attached. When battery power gets too low the amp cuts off, same when you have a bad batt.
6. I could go on...
7. So what size amp do you have hooked up? Do you have a capacitor to boost the power (constant power)?
8. Last but not least, check the remote wire first, it may be cheap and already broken. After all most amps are in the trunk. it may have been crushed because of poor routing procedure.

Any questions, feel free to ask. Ready to assist.

---Las97GT
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:02 PM   #12
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
Would be nice to know your type of stereo system and setup. Manufacturers tend to label their systems to make them user friendly for the most part. If you are running an after market stereo it should be labeled "remote." If not, then run a process of elimination. Here goes nothing.
1. you may already have the correct remote wire attached.
2. Verify that the ground to the amp is secured to a viable part of the vehicle chassis, very important.
3. Ground wire should be as short as possible.
3. Check hot wire (pos +) connection to battery. Bottom line ensure that it is not exposed to the chassis causing a short.
4. For safety sake move your fuse under the hood closer to the battery.
5. Identify the size of your amp by watts that is. Why? because modern amps are designed to shut off when voltage gets too low. This happens even with smart capacitors attached. When battery power gets too low the amp cuts off, same when you have a bad batt.
6. I could go on...
7. So what size amp do you have hooked up?

Any questions, feel free to ask. Ready to assist.

---Las97GT
I have a boss audio 1000W bridgeable class AB amp, with kicker 1000W wires. Ive been listening to my music for about a month before it went into the shop and just today i could tell the sub had went out. (This has happened before, and we concluded that the amp was not turned on) We hassiled and got stumped then hooked it up to a differfent fuse and it worked! But like i said today it went off again so i know we didnt do this right (were no experts in audio in cars hahaha) With that said, tommorrow will remove my head unit and attach this blue wire to the head unit? Is that what i should do? Any help would be great! Thanks everyone!


Forgot to say, stock headunit! So no aftermarket stuff besides the subs (at present)
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:06 PM   #13
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

Yes, RUN the BLUE remote wire from AMP to the HEADUNIT's 12V SWITCHED power source. It will be your MAIN power wire for the HEADUNIT. It should be listed on top of the headunit, what power is the POWER wire. IF you want to test the amp, cut a 6inch peice of wire (like your BLUE one) hook it to the remote and power at the same time on the AMP. If power is there, then it is INDEED your REMOTE wire problem.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:07 PM   #14
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

You did'nt answer a key question. What type of head unit are you using, aftermarket? if its factory there is probably no remote. not usually anyway.

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Old 01-26-2012, 08:09 PM   #15
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAS97GT View Post
You did'nt answer a key question. What type of head unit are you using, aftermarket? if its factory there is probably no remote. not usually anyway.

---Las97GT
I assumed stock.
Hence, run the REMOTE to the 12v switched source (POWER) wire.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:12 PM   #16
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

Looks like he already knows the hot and grounds. Remote should run lower voltage than the speaker outputs, or at minimum a steady voltage when the stereo in operation; speaker wires voltage vary by frequency outputs. Using a Multi meter can help with solving the problem.

I am curious how this turns out.

---Las97GT
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:17 PM   #17
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

ok ive got it clearly now, thank you. I will update you all tomrrow when i start the install. I have midterms so ill be home around 9:30 and ill start then.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:26 PM   #18
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Re: Ah! Please Help!

OK, here is the easiest way to find figure it out.

1. Find the remote or confirm the remote wire output from the head unit by, isolating the speaker wires, isolating the hot and ground wires, then turn on the stereo. have the amp in a location (hopefuly it has a pwr indicator) where you can see it turn on. if it does, then that's it. head units don't more than one remote.
2. Ok found the ground? Amp still turn off? Consider bass output. In laymans terms, deeper bass means more voltage consumption. Earlier bad hook ups could mean the internal caps are fried and will fail at certain demand range.
3. Check the voltage consumption, when the stereo is running and watch the batt volt dip, even when the engine is running at idle. Voltage is everything.
4. He still did not mention a capacitor to operate a 1000W amp either. 1K is a lot to run w/out a capacitor backup.

BTW I built my own box, and hooked up my own 3 farad cap.

---Las97GT
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:59 PM   #19
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Caps are nearly useless. A cheap way to try to get around spending the money on a good battery and high output altenator.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:56 PM   #20
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Alright guys i installed my new rear speakers today which was a lot harder than i thought...... but now the sub is working..... im clueless to how that has happened
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:30 PM   #21
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Yeah getting to those back speakers can be a pita the first time.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Pony
Yeah getting to those back speakers can be a pita the first time.
Yeah getting the screw in the back is such a pain! And im doing my door speakers tomorrow. Any tips?
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:12 PM   #23
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Take off the plastic shield around the door handle, it just pops off. Take out the plastic insert where your switches are. There is a clip on the front part of the door near the hinge. I think that's it, then gently bit firmly pull straight up on the whole panel, its held on with a half dozen or so plastics hooks.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Pony
Take off the plastic shield around the door handle, it just pops off. Take out the plastic insert where your switches are. There is a clip on the front part of the door near the hinge. I think that's it, then gently bit firmly pull straight up on the whole panel, its held on with a half dozen or so plastics hooks.
Thanks for the instructions! Ill be installing them saturday hopefully
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:10 PM   #25
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The remote should be hooked up to the back of the stereo or to a fuse that stays on. I had mine on a fuse before and it would should off when i would turn something off n the car. Try to find the fuse for the radio and use that one.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:41 AM   #26
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This is odd the Amp is on and the sub is playing but its realllyyyyyyy quiet, like theres not a lot of power going to it. Idk what to do now....
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeny27
This is odd the Amp is on and the sub is playing but its realllyyyyyyy quiet, like theres not a lot of power going to it. Idk what to do now....
If u was only showing 8v to the amp that's y. Should be 11.5-14.5. May need a new ground or wires may be bad. At 8v it may damage the amp for low voltage and ur amp wattage is rated at 14v so at 8v u may be gettin 1/4 of the power the amp is suppose to be putting out
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax8709

If u was only showing 8v to the amp that's y. Should be 11.5-14.5. May need a new ground or wires may be bad. At 8v it may damage the amp for low voltage and ur amp wattage is rated at 14v so at 8v u may be gettin 1/4 of the power the amp is suppose to be putting out
Thats interesting, i will be sure to reground the amp and see what that does
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeny27

Thats interesting, i will be sure to reground the amp and see what that does
Do that and check ur volts to see where ur at
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:40 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax8709

Do that and check ur volts to see where ur at
Will do, ill let you know how it goes!
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:44 PM   #31
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No prob
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:07 AM   #32
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Have u checked on ya volts yea?
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:48 AM   #33
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Havnt had time, im been sooo busyy with swim (im a swimmer fyi) and some poor weather isnt happening, soo im going to try and check tonight (if im lucky and find the time) if not it will be a weekend thing :/
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:22 PM   #34
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thanks for finding my problem always can count on you guys!
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:34 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeny27
thanks for finding my problem always can count on you guys!
What did it end of being?
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