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Old 08-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #1
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Radio question

All,

I have a 2011 GT convertible. I believe the car has a shaker system but I am not 100% sure. Anyway, I was thinking of upgrading the sound system. I do not want to replace the head unit because I like the Sync and the Sirius radio.

I had one audio shop tell me an amp would not work with the current speaker separates. I would need to upgrade all the speakers AND keep the subs in the car but disconnect them and put a new sub in the trunk. Has anyone heard of such a thing? This does not seem correct to me.

Let me know your experience.

Mike
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:57 PM   #2
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Re: Radio question

Hi Mike
In February I was looking to upgrade the Shaker 500 in my 2011 Mustang. I do not know anything about Car Audio and was told sort-of the same configuration as you decribed by 3 Audio Shops. Long Story-Short I did go ahead 2 weeks ago with the installation of all new speakers and a Sub in the truck and added a Signal Processor and a Amplifier. The sound is extremely clear and I like that I can control the Subwoofer with a control knob that came with the Signal Processor. I didn't want to change the Head Unit because I have the Navigation Screen. That is why I had the Signal Processor installed to clean the sound from the Head Unit to the speakers. The 2 of Audio Shop recommend just the Signal Processor and the Subwoofer and a Amplifier if I wanted a clean sound. I decided to add the new speakers because I figure if I didn't do it now I would never do it.
This is just my experience.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:54 AM   #3
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A factory speaker is garbage. Even the shaker systems. The speakers have very small magnets and usually are made of cardboard. The factory shaker speakers also do not have a normal impedance (4 ohm is normal and the shakers are normally 2 or 8) and that is why they recommended getting new ones.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msiegel117
All,

I have a 2011 GT convertible. I believe the car has a shaker system but I am not 100% sure. Anyway, I was thinking of upgrading the sound system. I do not want to replace the head unit because I like the Sync and the Sirius radio.

I had one audio shop tell me an amp would not work with the current speaker separates. I would need to upgrade all the speakers AND keep the subs in the car but disconnect them and put a new sub in the trunk. Has anyone heard of such a thing? This does not seem correct to me.

Let me know your experience.

Mike
Shelby online has a kicker upgrade for the shaker systems. New amp, new door subs, new door speakers, and if wanted a new powered sub fit the trunk that are all plug and play.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:00 AM   #5
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I just dropped two 10's and an amp in the back and I was set! Haha
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicholasP
I just dropped two 10's and an amp in the back and I was set! Haha
How easy was the install?
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning

How easy was the install?
Well by "I" I mean best but did it haha
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:40 PM   #8
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Re: Radio question

I added the "Shelby GT" speakers to my car. Did the front and backs. They run off the Shaker 500 Stereo with no problem and sound excellant. The Shop told me that there is a certain Wire Harness they would have to order for me, in order for them to be hooked up to a Amplifier, if I wanted to run them off of a separate Amp. Right now, I have the Shelby GT Speakers and a separate 10" JL subwoofer in a Sub Box, ran by a separate Amplifier.
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicholasP

Well by "I" I mean best but did it haha
How much does that usually run if you don't mind me asking. I don't feel like seeing my car gutted anymore this weekend lol
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning

How much does that usually run if you don't mind me asking. I don't feel like seeing my car gutted anymore this weekend lol
Haha it's like $70-$80 for the amp and I think $20 per sub not too bad at all actually just need to get the sub, amp, box, and wiring and you're set
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:40 PM   #11
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I have a 10" type R, type S door and deck speakers, alpine amp, and wiring kit from my last system in my 02. I have to figure out how to take the radio out or get someone to do it lol
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:29 AM   #12
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Re: Radio question

If you wanted to upgrade your sound in the shaker setups, you do not "HAVE" to go through all that. I do this for a living, and I am a Mustang man lol, so with those combined, here's what you can do: The factory amps in these cars for the front speakers is in the driver kick panel, the rear speakers is in the trunk along with the trunk mounted sub amp if applicable. The first thing to do is figure out what kind of speakers you want... Inthe front doors and rear deck are 5x7/6x8 (same speaker, never let anyone tell you there's a difference lol), and i usually recommend using a 5x7 component set up front (separate midrange/midbass and tweeter with external crossover), which can be installed as a direct replacement and no mod ifications needed except maybe custom tweeter mounting. Next for the rear speakers, I would use a coaxial or coax type 5x7 (tweeter is permanently mounted in the center of the speaker). Again, there should be zero mod nec except for snipping the factory molex plug off, or using an adapter to wire match it. As far as front door subs....I do one of two things....either leave them playing/or disconnect them, or option 2, install an 8" aftermarket midbass (Powerbass makes one of the best for this application, and we retail them at 60/each). With the proper amplifier, this front door setup sounds amazing. Now you are wondering, since you took out, or disconnected the 8's in the front door, where's the bass? That is entirely up to you, and how much bass you want. A single 10" woofer in the right enclosure and with the right amplification will outperform the stock stuff. The next thing is getting sound from your stock head unit to the amplifiers. This is where most shops like to make money (so do I, but I am always honest with my customers). I will tell you that simply using two line level adapters (20 bucks each) will give you front and rear RCA style outputs. Just add these behind the radio, and run your RCA lines to the rear. Bass levels can usually be controlled with the remote gain control that most low frequency amps come with. Here's the DIY part that may help out a ton of you. To install the line level adapters, you need the front and rear speaker wire colors, as well as for installing the speakers. So here's the mustang wiring for 10-12 cars:

Radio 12v: white/red -Radio Harness (large greay 24 pin plug)
Radio Ignition: CANBUS do not try to use, can cause ecu issues
Radio Ground: Black/Gray -Radio Harness
Radio Illumination: CANBUS do not use
Factory Amp Turn on: Blue/Green Attach amp remote for aftermarket amps here

Power Antenna: yellow/green (only powered up when am/fm is used)

Left Front Speaker: (+/-) white+ white/brown- or green+ gray -

Right Front Speaker: White/purple+ and white/Orange- or purple+ yellow-

Left Rear Speaker: white/green+ brown/yellow- or green/brown+gray/brown-

Right Rear Speaker: brown/white+ brown/blue- or purple/brown+ yellow/blue-

Subwoofer(s): front:purple/green+ green/white-
Rear:brown/blue+ white/blue-

Radio Aux input Left: blue+ yellow/green-
Radio Aux input Right: blue/green+ white/green-
These apply to non sync cars, and can also be found under the center console, and/or at the adapter in the center console.

RSE= Rear seat entertainment. Most people with Mustangs either do not have, or could care less, but here's the spec anyway.

RSE Video: brown/purple+ white/green- Inputs on factory nav screen.
RSE Audio Left: blue+ gray/orange- (SYNC Audio)
RSE Audio Right: purple/green+ brown/white- (SYNC Audio)

I know this information to be true for 2010-2012 Mustangs through experience, and the highly trustworthy database that I source. However, i will not take responsibility for anything that you damage. You should always be adept at testing, and wiring techniques before trying to modify any of the above. Connections are also extremely important. I always use and recommend solder. Hope this long a$$ed post helps.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:21 PM   #13
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So do I have to take any front panels out or can I go to the end of the panel and plug it in. I may have missed it, but what about the amp remote wire. The system I described earlier was what was in my 02 mustang. I will just use the cables, amp, and sub. No speakers as of yet.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:52 AM   #14
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Re: Radio question

You need to pull the radio out reguardless. Some people would tell you to put the line level adapter in the turnk and use the rear speaker outputs for signal, and you can. The proper way to do this, it to install the adapter, remote wire and rca interconnects behind the radio. For the battery run, main power wire, fuse it no further than 18" from the battery and you can go throught the firewall at the boot where the factory harness runs into the car. Kind of a pain depending on your model, but it's worth the effort.

Radio removal in the 05-09 is straightforward, open your center console, and at the rear under the pockt door, there will be two screws, phillips or 7mm, remove and the whole console will lift up from the rear, and unsnap by sliding up and back towards the rear at the same time. (Remove the shifter trim ring using a plastic pry tool first) Then open the glove box and revome the panel on the side of the upper console on both sides of the radio, by pulling straight out towards the rear of the car. At this point you should have 4 7mm screws holding that trim panel in, pull those, pull the trim panel, carefol of the heat/ac controls. Unplug any wiring harnesses, then remove the 4 7mm scres holding the radio in place. reverse to reinstall. All the wiring you will need to access is in the larger (of sometimes 2 or three plugs) in the back of the radio.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:20 PM   #15
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How big of a pain is it for a 11? I did my entire system with my dad in my 02. It sounded amazing. We went through a rubber piece in the firewall for the power wire. The RCA and blue remote wire went on the opposite side and all tied into the trunk. We had a brand new surround since the one that came originally was busted so we just used brute force. Can't do that on a new car.

You are making this sound so easy lol I may just do it myself again instead of paying someone and a week without my car
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:44 AM   #16
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Only issue is that in 07 they switched to can/buss. So you will have to find somewhere to pull the 12v remote turn on from.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:52 PM   #17
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Re: Radio question

I thought I had posted this stuff lol, but I left the page before I did I guess, but:

@Whitelightning: The 10+ is a larger pita than the previous years. Tec_ is partially correct, but do not try to "find somwhere to get 12v." It is simply that the ignition, as well as the factory amp turn on is controlled by canbus data and not true 12v signal. Here's the proper parts from Metra and Scosche to do it all for you.

Metra Harness: XSVI-5520-NAV for the non Shaker, and the XSVI-5521-NAV for the shaker. The main difference is that the 5521 adds the subwoofer RCA's to allow the aftermarket head unit to control the factory sub level.

The Metra Kit(s) are: 99-5823CH, or the nicer 99-5826CH

My opinion? As an installer/customizer, I like the scosche kit best for factory match, fit and finish, plus the color touchscreen lcd HVAC Controls are sweet. IMHO it's a better kit. Scosche Part#: FD1441B Scosche Industries
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:58 PM   #18
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Re: Radio question

Oh, and btw, the radio removal is basically the same, except you are replacing the entire fascia, instead of just the radio opening as in the pre 10. Hope it helps. Some one also has the Metra basic turbo 2 99-5823CH kit for sale in another thread for 175. That's a 230.00 kit, the basic with the rubber buttons and customizable readout. The nicer Metra kit with the color readout is up around 300, as well as the Scosche piece. Those are retail numbers though. You can always holler at me and i will see what I can do for you. If you're in Florida the closer the better. If not, I can still ship.
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