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Old 01-30-2013, 01:43 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by KDeMatteo View Post

I recently bought 2 12' Kicker subs, and a 2500 watt amp. What wiring do I need to complete my installation?!

Please help!
With those Kickers you'll be able to run a 2 gauge wire, 0 gauge is nice to have, but it's a pita to run, especially got someone new to audio installation. Exactly what amp are you using ?
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDeMatteo View Post

I recently bought 2 12' Kicker subs, and a 2500 watt amp. What wiring do I need to complete my installation?!

Please help!
I need amp specs bro.. And what radio stock or aftermarket ??
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:51 PM   #38
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Yeah 0 ga can be a ***** to work with but I'd run it just because of the 2500 watt amp.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:53 PM   #39
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Just a note for all you new guys. Buying a 2000 watt amp DOES NOT mean its actually 2000 watts. What you want to look for is RMS. Pay attention when your buying amps, you might end up buying a cheap one that's overpriced..
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:58 PM   #40
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Might need a capacitor, 2500 Watts is a lot of juice.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:59 PM   #41
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Yeah 0 ga can be a ***** to work with but I'd run it just because of the 2500 watt amp.
I had 2 Kicker CVR 12's with a Kicker ZX 750/1 (943w rms), also had a Kicker ZX 250/4 running 2 6x8's and 2 4" coaxials on the rear deck, full 4 gauge raptor wiring ran along with a tsunami voltage meter, distribution block and upgraded terminals. Hit 136 decibels still maintaining a steady 13.8 volts. I think he'd be fine with 2 gauge wiring lol
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:02 PM   #42
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Yeah 0 ga can be a ***** to work with but I'd run it just because of the 2500 watt amp.
2500 is just what the amp is rated to be max output but doesn't mean it will be pushing it consistently

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justasix98 View Post

I had 2 Kicker CVR 12's with a Kicker ZX 750/1 (943w rms), also had a Kicker ZX 250/4 running 2 6x8's and 2 4" coaxials on the rear deck, full 4 gauge raptor wiring ran along with a tsunami voltage meter, distribution block and upgraded terminals. Hit 136 decibels still maintaining a steady 13.8 volts. I think he'd be fine with 2 gauge wiring lol
+10
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:44 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Justasix98

I had 2 Kicker CVR 12's with a Kicker ZX 750/1 (943w rms), also had a Kicker ZX 250/4 running 2 6x8's and 2 4" coaxials on the rear deck, full 4 gauge raptor wiring ran along with a tsunami voltage meter, distribution block and upgraded terminals. Hit 136 decibels still maintaining a steady 13.8 volts. I think he'd be fine with 2 gauge wiring lol
Cool.

I'll be running a 0 ga back to a distribution block and go 4ga into my 1000w kicker mono and into my old 4 channel v power. But I can get it on the cheep so why not.

And I assumed he was giving the rms ratting of the amp. My bad.

I am well aware that the cheep stuff will slap the peak voltage all over the product. For example we have a kenwood amp that has 1000w stenciled on it but it's 350w rms. it's made people quite angry when they have been picking out the system they want to go with and you tell them that amp is underpowered for the sub they want.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:06 PM   #44
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Cool.

I'll be running a 0 ga back to a distribution block and go 4ga into my 1000w kicker mono and into my old 4 channel v power. But I can get it on the cheep so why not.

And I assumed he was giving the rms ratting of the amp. My bad.

I am well aware that the cheep stuff will slap the peak voltage all over the product. For example we have a kenwood amp that has 1000w stenciled on it but it's 350w rms. it's made people quite angry when they have been picking out the system they want to go with and you tell them that amp is underpowered for the sub they want.
It's all good. And yeah, 0 gauge is expensive as hell. It's good to let the buyers be aware of stuff like that, rms and all. Otherwise there buying the wrong amp for the system there trying to run, and that'll lead to an unhappy customer

---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:05 PM ----------

What sub/amp combo you going to be running ?
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:18 PM   #45
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Two 12"s Kicker subs with a 2500 watt amp, I have no clue as to what wires and all that to buy and all that 0 gauge lingo is hard for me to understand LOL
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:38 PM   #46
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Two 12"s Kicker subs with a 2500 watt amp, I have no clue as to what wires and all that to buy and all that 0 gauge lingo is hard for me to understand LOL
Lingo lol, when we talk about 8,4,2 or 0 gauge wire it means the thickness of the wiring we are using. 8 being thinnest, 0 being thickest.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #47
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Lingo lol, when we talk about 8,4,2 or 0 gauge wire it means the thickness of the wiring we are using. 8 being thinnest, 0 being thickest.
Perfect lol.
Now with a 2500 watt amp I will definitely need either a 2, or 0 gauge wire
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:48 PM   #48
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Quick question

If I buy regular speakers for the trunk and door, would I need an amp or would I just switch have to re-wire?
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:02 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by KDeMatteo View Post

Perfect lol.
Now with a 2500 watt amp I will definitely need either a 2, or 0 gauge wire
Not necessary...you can go with 4 if your am is not pushing the full 2500
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:40 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by alrefire View Post
Quick question

If I buy regular speakers for the trunk and door, would I need an amp or would I just switch have to re-wire?
Just re wire. Make sure to look up a wiring diagram to make sure your + and - are correct.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:44 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by KDeMatteo View Post

Perfect lol.
Now with a 2500 watt amp I will definitely need either a 2, or 0 gauge wire
It may say that you'll need 0 or 2 gauge but you should be fine with 4 gauge. If you have any voltage loss at all just sand down the place your ground wire is connected to (you should do this when installing), you can also upgrade your battery connectors
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:05 PM   #52
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It may say that you'll need 0 or 2 gauge but you should be fine with 4 gauge. If you have any voltage loss at all just sand down the place your ground wire is connected to (you should do this when installing), you can also upgrade your battery connectors
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:46 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justasix98

It's all good. And yeah, 0 gauge is expensive as hell. It's good to let the buyers be aware of stuff like that, rms and all. Otherwise there buying the wrong amp for the system there trying to run, and that'll lead to an unhappy customer

---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:05 PM ----------

What sub/amp combo you going to be running ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justasix98

It's all good. And yeah, 0 gauge is expensive as hell. It's good to let the buyers be aware of stuff like that, rms and all. Otherwise there buying the wrong amp for the system there trying to run, and that'll lead to an unhappy customer

---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:05 PM ----------

What sub/amp combo you going to be running ?
I'm going with a kicker 1000w that i got a steal on and a MTX thunder 600w that I got new old stock for almost free.





And if / when I shred the MTX I'll be picking up a L7
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:42 PM   #54
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I run in my jeep 2 12 inch diamond D6s! 600watts a piece with a Brutus Hifonics 1200 watt amp and a capacitor! I did all of it myself.

I have them wired to a toggle switch so I can have them on or off if I so choose without messing with setting or anything. I also have a hex Knob so I can control the volume of the subs independently from the stereo.

Literally rattles the car next to me if I have it turned up!

Good luck man!
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