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Old 04-20-2013, 04:28 PM   #1
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Subs

Hey a buddy of mine offered me 2 12" infinity subs and an amp for $150. He said they haven't been used in a while and he wanted to get rid of them. I just wanna know if this would be a good deal or not.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:45 PM   #2
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Ehhh you can get two NEW 12" comp kickers from 120 without a box..

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------

Is he selling an amp? If not dont its a rip off his box isnt even ported.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:50 PM   #3
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He is selling the amp with the subs
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:21 PM   #4
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He is selling the amp with the subs
How many amps? But if you get it for 100 or even 125 it would be good
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:00 PM   #5
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He is selling me 1 amp and 2 12" subs for $150
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:21 PM   #6
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He is selling me 1 amp and 2 12" subs for $150
I mean watts is the amp sorry lol
But yea its a good deal dude.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:15 AM   #7
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Ill say got for it $150 not bad, but not sure if that box will fit in the trunk, i had that problem when i got my sub had to get a custom box
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:21 AM   #8
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I got 2 seperate 12 in boxs for 60 and they a little shifting and they fit. Lol but get a ported box they sound a lot better
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:41 PM   #9
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Here is what my trunk looks like
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:31 PM   #10
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I mean watts is the amp sorry lol
But yea its a good deal dude.
Idk what the watts is the amp. I wasn't able to talk to my buddy today
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:37 PM   #11
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Here is what my trunk looks like
I like how that looks but I wanna get 2 custom boxes for the sides of my trunk
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:03 PM   #12
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Be ready for some good spent $$ for custom boxes that function and fit well. Remember you pay for what you get! Some look good but sound like **** and some dont fit well but sound great i learned first hand
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:28 PM   #13
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Making boxes isn't that hard if you have the tools
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:30 PM   #14
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Making boxes isn't that hard if you have the tools
Its not hard but to actaully make them sound good and have a good functional port isnt very easy lol
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Old 04-22-2013, 12:03 AM   #15
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Yeah it is as long as you measure everything right
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:18 AM   #16
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Did you guys change head units or is there a way to run all this with stock head unit
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:01 AM   #17
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First off, amp output alone is not very useful. I need to know how manny watts per channel and at what load(it will be measured in Ohm, look up the symbol for this if you don't know what your looking for)... Probably best to just get a make and model and I can go off of that. I also need to know the model of these infinity subs. At very least I need the impedance of each sub, the RMS of the sub's, and max/peak RMS as well as there frequency response rating.

As for a box, build a sealed box for sure if your doing it. Most good companies will tell the customer what the recommended air space per sub is, infinity is a good one so this information is out there. I recommend half inch MDF board for building material. You need to wood glue all joints and pre drill all screw holes. Dont forget that you need to get wires in there so drill a small hole for them, pass 4 wires thru the hole with plenty of slack on each side, then seal the hole around the wire with a mix of wood glue and saw dust. Once you do that, get some calking, I always used clear silicon just because it never failed me and dries clear. seal all outer joints with calking, use a card to smooth it out and push it into the joints. Now, go get some boating carpet from lowes or Home Depot. It's not too expensive and hugs the corners nicely. You will need some spray glue and staples to wrap the box in carpet, try to keep the seams on the back and lower edges. Cut the carped from the sub holes and stand back and admire your ALMOST finished box. Take a break from the box now and run all your wires in the car and get power and signal ran, connected, and checked... Ok, here comes the slightly tricky part..outer calking and wood glue should be dry by now so your ready for the last step... Instal 1 sub then quickly lay a thin bead of calking along all inner seams and a nice fat one around that hole the cables come thru. As soon and as fast as you can get the other sub in the box and pump 60HZ thru the subs. This will create pressure in the box forcing calking into any small gaps in the edges.... And there you go, a sealed box that will look professional if you have the skills to do it properly and will be more air tight than any mass manufactured box.

Get me that amp and speaker info and I will help you determine how to wire and set up the amp so it runs safely.

---------- Post added at 09:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Almost forgot. If your useing the stock head unit I Highly recommend a passive crossover. You can use that to splice off the signal from the rear speakers too but I always try to come out of the head unit if at all posable
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebeltx View Post

---------- Post added at 09:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Almost forgot. If your useing the stock head unit I Highly recommend a passive crossover. You can use that to splice off the signal from the rear speakers too but I always try to come out of the head unit if at all posable
I hated using crossover i couldnt control from head unit and it bothered the **** out of me. A couple months went by and i got a new head unit
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:49 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TruChris View Post

Its not hard but to actaully make them sound good and have a good functional port isnt very easy lol
+1. Specs for a box said 5 inch port. I ha 2 subs and it said double it. Next thing I know, it says 10 inch port. I did the specs double like stated. Sounded like crap.

---------- Post added at 11:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rebeltx View Post
First off, amp output alone is not very useful. I need to know how manny watts per channel and at what load(it will be measured in Ohm, look up the symbol for this if you don't know what your looking for)... Probably best to just get a make and model and I can go off of that. I also need to know the model of these infinity subs. At very least I need the impedance of each sub, the RMS of the sub's, and max/peak RMS as well as there frequency response rating.

As for a box, build a sealed box for sure if your doing it. Most good companies will tell the customer what the recommended air space per sub is, infinity is a good one so this information is out there. I recommend half inch MDF board for building material. You need to wood glue all joints and pre drill all screw holes. Dont forget that you need to get wires in there so drill a small hole for them, pass 4 wires thru the hole with plenty of slack on each side, then seal the hole around the wire with a mix of wood glue and saw dust. Once you do that, get some calking, I always used clear silicon just because it never failed me and dries clear. seal all outer joints with calking, use a card to smooth it out and push it into the joints. Now, go get some boating carpet from lowes or Home Depot. It's not too expensive and hugs the corners nicely. You will need some spray glue and staples to wrap the box in carpet, try to keep the seams on the back and lower edges. Cut the carped from the sub holes and stand back and admire your ALMOST finished box. Take a break from the box now and run all your wires in the car and get power and signal ran, connected, and checked... Ok, here comes the slightly tricky part..outer calking and wood glue should be dry by now so your ready for the last step... Instal 1 sub then quickly lay a thin bead of calking along all inner seams and a nice fat one around that hole the cables come thru. As soon and as fast as you can get the other sub in the box and pump 60HZ thru the subs. This will create pressure in the box forcing calking into any small gaps in the edges.... And there you go, a sealed box that will look professional if you have the skills to do it properly and will be more air tight than any mass manufactured box.

Get me that amp and speaker info and I will help you determine how to wire and set up the amp so it runs safely.

---------- Post added at 09:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Almost forgot. If your useing the stock head unit I Highly recommend a passive crossover. You can use that to splice off the signal from the rear speakers too but I always try to come out of the head unit if at all posable
One thing about your box building. Why not a quick connect and caulk round it? That's what I did. Hella easy and 10x better than "saw dust" just my .02
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #20
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I hated using crossover i couldnt control from head unit and it bothered the **** out of me. A couple months went by and i got a new head unit
I hope your ready for a crash corse in speakers and acoustics...here we go...

Crossovers are really not to be messed with as you can easily damage a speaker by feeding it frequencies it can not reproduce effectively. For a sub, it's high freq's that will burn it up, for door speakers it's the low frequencies...

Every speaker has something called an acoustical crossover point. That is the point at which the speaker begins to no longer be able to produce a frequency efficiently. Most manufacturers add 10HZ on the high end and take 10HZ from the low end when they put the spec for the frequency response in a speakers manual. That means that they are basically rolling the dice for you to make there speaker look better on paper. You should never set that crossover point higher than what is said in the manual, in fact, I would recommend setting it 10HZ lower. Then please, leave it alone or you will eventually blow the sub. High end subs are made better and can take the abuse better but eventually it will die and you will cry.

This is a very very very common mistake. I see "pro" audio shops screw this up all the time and kinda just grin. Then I pull out my SMAART rig and they pay a pretty penny for me to teach an in depth class on tuning a cabinet properly...



[QUOTE="Whitelightning;1620992"]

+1. Specs for a box said 5 inch port. I ha 2 subs and it said double it. Next thing I know, it says 10 inch port. I did the specs double like stated. Sounded like crap.
Quote:

Ports are more than just a hole. It has to actually go into the box also. The depth of the port has as much importance as the diameter or the port... It takes some math to figure out how to do it properly and even then it is not easy. Building a properly ported box that is specifically suited for a certain sub is a serious undertaking... I will post some pics of the box I build for 2 Alpine R-10's. it took almost 3 weeks (working on and off) to figure it all out, draw up plans, and build the box. I will say that it ended up being one of, if not the nicest boxes I ever built and sounded absolutely amazing. It shook off my rear view mirror in 5 min... That's after years of having 15's and 12's that never came close to doing that. the clarity and depth of bass that this system produces was just truly mind blowing but the work it took was ridiculous. I can't say I would do it again.

---------- Post added at 11:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11



One thing about your box building. Why not a quick connect and caulk round it? That's what I did. Hella easy and 10x better than "saw dust" just my .02
I absolutely agree, I was just trying to keep it as cheap and easy as I could. I always used the quick connects also but some people don't know what they are or where to get them. It also means you need a whole saw to cut that hole because most jig saw blades will snap trying to make a circle cut with a small radius... But yes, I agree that the cleaner look is a quick connect.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 08:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

I have no idea why my responses came up as a quote inside a quote but if you look carefully I did my best to answer 3 different posts. Sorry for any confusion
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:11 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by rebeltx View Post

I hope your ready for a crash corse in speakers and acoustics...here we go...

Crossovers are really not to be messed with as you can easily damage a speaker by feeding it frequencies it can not reproduce effectively. For a sub, it's high freq's that will burn it up, for door speakers it's the low frequencies...

Every speaker has something called an acoustical crossover point. That is the point at which the speaker begins to no longer be able to produce a frequency efficiently. Most manufacturers add 10HZ on the high end and take 10HZ from the low end when they put the spec for the frequency response in a speakers manual. That means that they are basically rolling the dice for you to make there speaker look better on paper. You should never set that crossover point higher than what is said in the manual, in fact, I would recommend setting it 10HZ lower. Then please, leave it alone or you will eventually blow the sub. High end subs are made better and can take the abuse better but eventually it will die and you will cry.

This is a very very very common mistake. I see "pro" audio shops screw this up all the time and kinda just grin. Then I pull out my SMAART rig and they pay a pretty penny for me to teach an in depth class on tuning a cabinet properly...
I already burnt out a sub lol
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:13 AM   #22
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I already burnt out a sub lol
You and just about every one else my friend.

Subs fry, it's just the way it is. I could get real in depth but even I still blow subs sometimes when I mix concerts. Just proof that even a properly tuned rig is not bulletproof. Cars pop subs more than anything for 2 reasons. Improper tuning and dirty/inconsistent power input to the amp
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:19 AM   #23
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What if I buy subs to give me more base but I'm not blaring the subs. I do have to come home from work at 12:30 at night and don't want to wake the neighbors. Would I still blow subs if I don't listen to them loudly?
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:24 PM   #24
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a decent 10" sub and amp is what your after. the thing is, it is allot easier to make a speaker loud than it is to make it sound good. Alpine, Boston Acoustic, infinity and JL are what I recommend. If it were me, I would get a Alpine SWR-1243D sub powered by a MRX-M110 digital amp by alpine. the digital amps that are out now days are great for what your after and can produce the clarity your after at low volume. the best bet is to find a good car audio shop that will demo this for you... and for god sakes, don't let them sell you something, i see audio shops try to sell crap to people all the time and people fall for it all the time. Memphis brand speakers for example, if the pace has them they will certainly try to sell them to you because they are dirt cheap but memphis dumps gobs of cash into advertising to build hype and require high price points on there products...meaning the dealers make a bunch of money selling them to you. if your not 100% confident that your getting what your paying for feel free to PM with your concerns, i am by no means "god of car audio" but I have been around and seen the tricks.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:32 PM   #25
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that system would run around $600, plus a box and wires. you may be able to get a better price if you shop around.

the infinities your looking at would work well for you i think. they might get a little loud at times but I think they could work for what you want. the price is hard to beat
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:39 PM   #26
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that system would run around $600, plus a box and wires. you may be able to get a better price if you shop around.

the infinities your looking at would work well for you i think. they might get a little loud at times but I think they could work for what you want. the price is hard to beat
If he get a nice 12 with a 750 watt amp with a controller it would be good also he could turn the amp on and off with it.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:49 PM   #27
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If he get a nice 12 with a 750 watt amp with a controller it would be good also he could turn the amp on and off with it.
a 12 would not create as crisp of a response as a 10 would for the same price. Could a 12 produce as clear of sound? yes, absolutely, but your going to spend more $ in a 12 that could do that. Also, there are very very few amps that are capable of producing good clean noise with little or no noise floor while at low volume as well as a digital amp will. That is why I made the selection i did, if this were all about being loud then the digital would not be as necessary...

as far as turning the amp on and off, the new alpine digitals have a sense feature on the input. It senses input voltage from the head unit to determine when to turn on and off. As long as the radio is on, the amp is on, when the radio turns off so does the amp... quite a cool feature. Alpine also a offers a bass box that allows for adjustment on the fly, that would be good for the OP so he could turn the sub down when you get in your neighborhood late at night.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:03 PM   #28
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a 12 would not create as crisp of a response as a 10 would for the same price. Could a 12 produce as clear of sound? yes, absolutely, but your going to spend more $ in a 12 that could do that. Also, there are very very few amps that are capable of producing good clean noise with little or no noise floor while at low volume as well as a digital amp will. That is why I made the selection i did, if this were all about being loud then the digital would not be as necessary...

as far as turning the amp on and off, the new alpine digitals have a sense feature on the input. It senses input voltage from the head unit to determine when to turn on and off. As long as the radio is on, the amp is on, when the radio turns off so does the amp... quite a cool feature. Alpine also a offers a bass box that allows for adjustment on the fly, that would be good for the OP so he could turn the sub down when you get in your neighborhood late at night.
You know a heck of a lot more than i do! Haha
I have a pioneer head unit that allows me to turn off the sub an i also have a knob control under my dash for my rockford amp. But my audio shop did my eq for me and i recently restarted it and i have no idea what it should be set i have a graphic eq on mine any help?
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:26 PM   #29
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I've been reading a lot of places say to mount the amp to the metal of the car. I was thinking of mounting it under my passenger seat so it's out of the way in the trunk. What ate your guys's opinions and where have you guys mounted your amps?
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:43 PM   #30
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I've been reading a lot of places say to mount the amp to the metal of the car. I was thinking of mounting it under my passenger seat so it's out of the way in the trunk. What ate your guys's opinions and where have you guys mounted your amps?
Both mine are mounted back of the seats. I think under would be kinda wierd i think it will get hot if someone sits there
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:47 PM   #31
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Good point
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:29 PM   #32
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They probably say mount to the body because of grounding but any amp I have never seen an amp that doesn't have a dedicated ground wire. It's kinda a big deal ya know lol. I have seen amps mounted all over. "Technically" your better off putting it closer to the radio because the lower power input signal is more likely to pick up interference. At the same time, running the power cables that go from amp to sub too close to other audio cables will induce a hum into your rig. Cars are small enough that you don't really need to worry about all that though so put the amp where it makes since for you. Try to keep away from your antenna cable and your good ... I wouldn't worry about heating seats, if your amp gets that hot then you have bigger issues.

I have been around the block once or twice doing the car audio thing. Did that for a while before going out on your with bands as a audio systems tech... So I have a hand up on about 99% of the people you will find on your standard audio show. Bachelor degree in show production and touring systems doesn't hurt either
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:05 PM   #33
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Where do you live? Haha
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:55 PM   #34
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Just got the subs from my buddy I'll.post some pictures of the amp and subs

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Old 04-26-2013, 09:10 PM   #35
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Looks like you got a good deal to me
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