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Old 03-04-2014, 08:24 PM   #1
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Sound processor/equalizer + subwoofer

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has added a sound processor/equalizer to improve the sound from their shaker 500? I currently have Polk audio speakers with factory subs; sound quality is good can't complain too much. Just thinking about going the extra step to refine it even further.. Without having to get an aftermarket deck.

Also, those who have added subs in their trunk (while keeping factory system) - where did you get the input from? Front/rear speakers, or somewhere from the wires that goes to door subs?

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Old 03-07-2014, 12:10 AM   #2
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Anyone?

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Old 03-07-2014, 05:46 AM   #3
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This is exactly the mod that I'm looking for! Someone had to have pulled it off.
I have the shaker 500 with Nav and backup camera and love the integration. I just want more highs and thump.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:18 AM   #4
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All aftermarket amps and use something like a Jl audio clean sweep for integration. Can't fine tune the crap signal from factory deck much without those types of pieces. Then you can add an electronic crossover as well for fine tuning the audio. Tag the rear speaker leads for a line output converter. Clean sweep requires all signal wires from deck.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:04 PM   #5
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I kept my factory shaker 500 and added an amp and sub. Bouggt a line out converter and tapped the two rear speakers for signal. I have it set up so my sub provides the bass and cranked up the treble
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:13 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Spdy1969 View Post
All aftermarket amps and use something like a Jl audio clean sweep for integration. Can't fine tune the crap signal from factory deck much without those types of pieces. Then you can add an electronic crossover as well for fine tuning the audio. Tag the rear speaker leads for a line output converter. Clean sweep requires all signal wires from deck.
I did the same a while ago. Bought a powered sub (8' bandpass from amazon) for my trunk. Got it tapped with a line out converter. The reviews said it provides really punchy bass.. Nope it didn't. It was just boomy, no real bass and it actually degraded the sound of shaker 500 itself.

Now my other option is getting a custom made box for trunk, and 2 Polk audio subs. Just confused if the signal from pre-amp door subs should be better, or if a speaker level input with a line out converter is going to be a lot 'stronger'

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Old 03-13-2014, 06:32 PM   #7
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I don't have a Shaker 500 but I do have a Pioneer Premier digital processor. It improves the sound of my Pioneer head unit that has a eq. built in.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by bazinga11 View Post
I did the same a while ago. Bought a powered sub (8' bandpass from amazon) for my trunk. Got it tapped with a line out converter. The reviews said it provides really punchy bass.. Nope it didn't. It was just boomy, no real bass and it actually degraded the sound of shaker 500 itself.

Now my other option is getting a custom made box for trunk, and 2 Polk audio subs. Just confused if the signal from pre-amp door subs should be better, or if a speaker level input with a line out converter is going to be a lot 'stronger'

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1. Make sure you are getting the signal pre-factory amp for your LOC if you have a factory amplified system. Tag the wires before the factory amp.

2. Make sure you tune everything correctly. Not sure what the powered sub system you have consists of, but matching the gains (signal matching) to the LOC is important.

3. Set the crossover properly to the type of music you are listening to.

4. Make sure you get a quality LOC. An adjustable LOC helps match the signal from your deck and you can better match the signal to your amp that way.

5. Change the direction of the box. Make sure the subs are firing towards the rear of the trunk, not towards the seats, this can help with the sound and volume of the subs.

6. A custom box and quality amp is almost always going to sound better than a pre-packaged amplified system. If you want to spend the money I suggest this. If you are dead set on keeping the factory deck, there will be limits to SQ but adding as much aftermarket pieces as you can will only improve quality and volume, as long as you aren't purchasing cheap junk (dual, pyle, crunch, jensen, etc...)

7. Bandpass boxes aren't known for punchy bass, but boomy, loud bass. Sealed boxes or a finely tuned ported box (much more space) is what you need. I prefer sealed boxes over all else, but that is just my opinion. Sealed boxes are also typically much smaller and mustang trunks are already space limited.

8. Not sure what you mean by your door speaker question. But if you are talking about adding an amp and sub in the trunk, tag the wires in the trunk before the factory amp.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Spdy1969 View Post
1. Make sure you are getting the signal pre-factory amp for your LOC if you have a factory amplified system. Tag the wires before the factory amp.

2. Make sure you tune everything correctly. Not sure what the powered sub system you have consists of, but matching the gains (signal matching) to the LOC is important.

3. Set the crossover properly to the type of music you are listening to.

4. Make sure you get a quality LOC. An adjustable LOC helps match the signal from your deck and you can better match the signal to your amp that way.

5. Change the direction of the box. Make sure the subs are firing towards the rear of the trunk, not towards the seats, this can help with the sound and volume of the subs.

6. A custom box and quality amp is almost always going to sound better than a pre-packaged amplified system. If you want to spend the money I suggest this. If you are dead set on keeping the factory deck, there will be limits to SQ but adding as much aftermarket pieces as you can will only improve quality and volume, as long as you aren't purchasing cheap junk (dual, pyle, crunch, jensen, etc...)

7. Bandpass boxes aren't known for punchy bass, but boomy, loud bass. Sealed boxes or a finely tuned ported box (much more space) is what you need. I prefer sealed boxes over all else, but that is just my opinion. Sealed boxes are also typically much smaller and mustang trunks are already space limited.

8. Not sure what you mean by your door speaker question. But if you are talking about adding an amp and sub in the trunk, tag the wires in the trunk before the factory amp.
Umm the only reason why I wanna keep my factory system is cuz of the price factor. The dash kit alone is $275ish plus $400-$500 for a good stereo.

What LOC would you suggest? Would AudioControls LC2i would be a good choice?

I already have Hifonics Brutus BRZ 1700W RMS amp from my previous system, and I'm leaving towards getting a sealed mustang specific sub box (its for $120 I guess - from zenenclosures). I wonder if these boxes would leak - as suggested by a local car audio shop guy? - well he could be saying that to make some money himself so idk lol

I am planning on getting two 10in Polk audio Db subwoofers. They say they're quite punchy for the price, and give out clean crisp bass. Any thoughts?

From door speaker I meant Shaker 500 door subs. So as per your info, I should tap my LOC to the wires that are going to factory amp (for door subs) right? And then from LOC to my own after market amp?

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Old 03-13-2014, 07:51 PM   #10
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Detailed Amp Wiring Guide

I replaced all speakers except my door subs, and tapped into the pre-amp signal specific for the subs. The guide was amazing and perfectly accurate. Please check his site out. Whole process took me 4 hours.

2012 Mustang Shaker 500 Add A Sub Install - www.Evilcartman.com

I will say that whether it is real or not, it seems that after I tapped into the door sub signal for my trunk subs, the door subs are slightly less effective. That is fine with me, because door subs do not perform particularly well anyways, and I now have real bass in the trunk.

In the entire system, only the mids need improvement now. This is all with the Shaker 500 as the head unit. Overall, sound is lightyears better.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazinga11 View Post
Umm the only reason why I wanna keep my factory system is cuz of the price factor. The dash kit alone is $275ish plus $400-$500 for a good stereo.
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In regards to price and keeping the head unit, I spent $100 on two pair of Pioneer 5x7s, $50 on amp wiring kit and LOC, and piecemealed my sub package with stuff i had (temporarily). With that said, I think the oem head unit and aftermarket speakers/subs is definitely the way to go on a budget.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JRockDetroit View Post
I replaced all speakers except my door subs, and tapped into the pre-amp signal specific for the subs. The guide was amazing and perfectly accurate. Please check his site out. Whole process took me 4 hours.

2012 Mustang Shaker 500 Add A Sub Install - www.Evilcartman.com

I will say that whether it is real or not, it seems that after I tapped into the door sub signal for my trunk subs, the door subs are slightly less effective. That is fine with me, because door subs do not perform particularly well anyways, and I now have real bass in the trunk.

In the entire system, only the mids need improvement now. This is all with the Shaker 500 as the head unit. Overall, sound is lightyears better.






Quote:
Originally Posted by JRockDetroit View Post
In regards to price and keeping the head unit, I spent $100 on two pair of Pioneer 5x7s, $50 on amp wiring kit and LOC, and piecemealed my sub package with stuff i had (temporarily). With that said, I think the oem head unit and aftermarket speakers/subs is definitely the way to go on a budget.
Cheers, thanks man! I have already replaced my speakers with 5x7 Polk audios.. They sound better than the stock shaker 500 speakers. What subwoofers, and LOC did you go with? have you had a custom made box for your subs?

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Old 03-13-2014, 08:44 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JRockDetroit View Post
I replaced all speakers except my door subs, and tapped into the pre-amp signal specific for the subs. The guide was amazing and perfectly accurate. Please check his site out. Whole process took me 4 hours.

2012 Mustang Shaker 500 Add A Sub Install - www.Evilcartman.com

I will say that whether it is real or not, it seems that after I tapped into the door sub signal for my trunk subs, the door subs are slightly less effective. That is fine with me, because door subs do not perform particularly well anyways, and I now have real bass in the trunk.

In the entire system, only the mids need improvement now. This is all with the Shaker 500 as the head unit. Overall, sound is lightyears better.
Overall that is a good write up. Couple of issues/concerns though.

1. Most amps don't like to be mounted upside down. It messes with the heat dissipation.
2. Most of the time in amplified systems, you want the un-amplified signal as it's full range. But this depends on the system and the signals in/out of the amp. After reading a few different posts/articles, you can tag the pre-amp output at the door amps, or use a LOC on the rear speaker leads, as I suggested. But this also depends on the type of interface you are using.

Ford Service Manuals - Wiring Diagrams
Quoted from theMustangSource:
I know this might be a bit late, but if you have a shaker radio, you can tap right into the pre-amp output on the head unit. It's connector C290B and it has all the pins you need. Enable , + , - , and Shield. There is one set for front (shaker 500) and one set for rear (shaker 1000). 8 pins total.

Did this on my sub install and it works beautiful. Clean wiring (no LOC) and the amp isn't running unless my radio is on.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:51 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bazinga11 View Post
Cheers, thanks man! I have already replaced my speakers with 5x7 Polk audios.. They sound better than the stock shaker 500 speakers. What subwoofers, and LOC did you go with? have you had a custom made box for your subs?

|| BlackOnBlack ||
Well my temporary sub setup is from what I had laying around, an old Jensen 400w amp, and a box with 2 no-name subs. I just wanted better sound, not to shake the neighbors, and even that setup is fine. Note, I am no professional installer, or an audiophile so I cannot say what is best, but my system works for me.

The LOC was Scosche $20. It incorporated a remote turn on wire for the sub and an external knob for gain. It is powered, and I was able to tap into that in the factory harness as well.
Scosche Line-Out Converter with Bass Control: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com

I am in the process of building my own box, similar to the xenclosures ones that face the rear and look pretty custom. I am a decent carpenter, I am sure I can build a comparable/better box and save $100. I ordered sub box carpet and terminals from ebay for $18. MDF from Lowes/HD is $35. Constructing a box to fit the slant near the rear seats is easy, it will be the fascia board that contours the sides that is tricky. Trimming a cardboard template to it first is the way to ensure a snug fit/oem look.

2 Kicker 12's from Amazon $120
Amazon.com: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black): Car Electronics

Still debating the amp situation. Going to see how they sound with the Jensen, but will probable upgrade in the future.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:14 PM   #15
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Well my temporary sub setup is from what I had laying around, an old Jensen 400w amp, and a box with 2 no-name subs. I just wanted better sound, not to shake the neighbors, and even that setup is fine. Note, I am no professional installer, or an audiophile so I cannot say what is best, but my system works for me.

The LOC was Scosche $20. It incorporated a remote turn on wire for the sub and an external knob for gain. It is powered, and I was able to tap into that in the factory harness as well.
Scosche Line-Out Converter with Bass Control: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com

I am in the process of building my own box, similar to the xenclosures ones that face the rear and look pretty custom. I am a decent carpenter, I am sure I can build a comparable/better box and save $100. I ordered sub box carpet and terminals from ebay for $18. MDF from Lowes/HD is $35. Constructing a box to fit the slant near the rear seats is easy, it will be the fascia board that contours the sides that is tricky. Trimming a cardboard template to it first is the way to ensure a snug fit/oem look.

2 Kicker 12's from Amazon $120
Amazon.com: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black): Car Electronics

Still debating the amp situation. Going to see how they sound with the Jensen, but will probable upgrade in the future.
Craigslist is your friend.
You can get used gear cheap and it will normally be a better product for less money than what you can purchase new. Get DVC subs, more wiring possibilities and more power handling. I'm not trying to put you off of 12's but 2 will eat almost all of your trunk space up. Depending on the sound volume you are looking for, 2 10's or even 2 8's with good power and the right box will amaze you.

I have 2 8's Kicker cvr dvc's in a crappy bandpass box and it's pretty decent. My play has always been to rear mount the subs to the back deck and mount the box underneath, more space in the trunk that way. Hopefully get that done this summer. I do have an old school orion HCCA 225 amp driving them though, good clean power.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:23 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Spdy1969 View Post
Craigslist is your friend.
You can get used gear cheap and it will normally be a better product for less money than what you can purchase new. Get DVC subs, more wiring possibilities and more power handling. I'm not trying to put you off of 12's but 2 will eat almost all of your trunk space up. Depending on the sound volume you are looking for, 2 10's or even 2 8's with good power and the right box will amaze you.

I have 2 8's Kicker cvr dvc's in a crappy bandpass box and it's pretty decent. My play has always been to rear mount the subs to the back deck and mount the box underneath, more space in the trunk that way. Hopefully get that done this summer. I do have an old school orion HCCA 225 amp driving them though, good clean power.
All good information. I have debated the sub size back and forth. Just decided that I would squeeze in what I could. I am a big fan of 8" subs, they can provide some clear bass.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:21 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Spdy1969 View Post
Craigslist is your friend.
You can get used gear cheap and it will normally be a better product for less money than what you can purchase new. Get DVC subs, more wiring possibilities and more power handling. I'm not trying to put you off of 12's but 2 will eat almost all of your trunk space up. Depending on the sound volume you are looking for, 2 10's or even 2 8's with good power and the right box will amaze you.

I have 2 8's Kicker cvr dvc's in a crappy bandpass box and it's pretty decent. My play has always been to rear mount the subs to the back deck and mount the box underneath, more space in the trunk that way. Hopefully get that done this summer. I do have an old school orion HCCA 225 amp driving them though, good clean power.
Thanks bro, I have tried craigslist with not too much luck. I already have a pretty powerful amp (Hifonics Brutus: 1700W RMS @ 1ohm, 1200W @ 2ohm, 600W @ 4ohm); all in all I am looking for good subs that provide CLEAR, CRISPY, PUNCHY bass. I am leaning towards getting two 10in polk audio DB subs. I have heard Alpine type Rs in car audio stores, they sounded kinda boomy/loud with its bass.

How about a single Type R 10? with LC2i LOC, and a sound processor to improve music quality from coaxial speakers? whats your opinion?

Kickers seemed to be loud with boomy bass.. just didn't find em punchy lol
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