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Old 08-09-2014, 08:44 AM   #1
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Alpine type R 10"

Hey guys, does anyone have alpine type r subs in the trunk? I've been reading some good reviews lately and they've convinced me. Was wondering what amp or box would be a good setup inside the trunk of a 2013 mustang. I need some trunk space, so the box can't be too big. Post pics if you could.
Thanks


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Old 08-09-2014, 11:18 AM   #2
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I think Alpine Type R's are some of the best subs you can buy. In the proper box and amp they will rattle your teeth loose.

Box:

Custom Sub Enclosure | Affordable Sub Box

I have a JL W6 in this box and it works great.

Amp:

I would give it at least 500 watts. This is what I'm using.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M50...rds=alpine+amp

I like this amp but I wish I would have went with a little more power.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:32 AM   #3
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That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks! Just one question, is having 2 boxes overkill? I've been told 2 is the way to go, but I've heard plenty of single 10" and they sound just as good


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Old 08-09-2014, 11:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDAintJoken View Post
That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks! Just one question, is having 2 boxes overkill? I've been told 2 is the way to go, but I've heard plenty of single 10" and they sound just as good


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What's your goal? Are you trying to make the windshield and roof breath in and out or do you want to fill in the bottom end?

A single 10 with a good box and amp is sufficient for most. If you want super loud bass 2 10's will help but you would really want 2 12's for that. The box plays a big part in volume and depth of bass.

How are you hooking this up? Stock HU or aftermarket?
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:45 AM   #5
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Oh one more thing. What is 2Ω + 2Ω/4Ω + 4Ω?


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Old 08-09-2014, 11:51 AM   #6
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What's your goal? Are you trying to make the windshield and roof breath in and out or do you want to fill in the bottom end?



A single 10 with a good box and amp is sufficient for most. If you want super loud bass 2 10's will help but you would really want 2 12's for that. The box plays a big part in volume and depth of bass.



How are you hooking this up? Stock HU or aftermarket?

The thing is, I got a stock touchscreen head unit, and I would like to keep it since the aftermarket touchscreens are expensive and not as good. Wiring is going to be tricky, but I got a friend who can help me with it


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Old 08-09-2014, 11:56 AM   #7
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Oh one more thing. What is 2Ω + 2Ω/4Ω + 4Ω?


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It has to do with how much power you can get from an amp. For you running a single sub in a2 oh load will be best for you. If you bought the amp I linked it would be ideal for a 2 ohm load. In that case buy a dual 4 ohm sub and follow this diagram

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:00 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by DDAintJoken View Post
The thing is, I got a stock touchscreen head unit, and I would like to keep it since the aftermarket touchscreens are expensive and not as good. Wiring is going to be tricky, but I got a friend who can help me with it


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Oh ok this changes things a bit. You'll need a high/low converter and the amp you buy needs to have a remote bass knob. If not you won't be able to control the bass out put.

This is what you need. The knob goes with the Alpine amp.

Amazon.com: Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6: Electronics


Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control: Electronics


By the way aftermarket HUs are way better than the stock unit.
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:05 PM   #9
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Dang. That's up to 620$. A little bit more than what I wanted to spend. I hope it'll be worth jt


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Old 08-09-2014, 12:17 PM   #10
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Dang. That's up to 620$. A little bit more than what I wanted to spend. I hope it'll be worth jt


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Doing car audio isn't a cheap hobby. Will it be worth it, yes I believe it will. Others might tell you that you can get a high/low converter cheaper,but don't do it. Stock systems have a bass roll off to protect the speakers at higher volumes, you don't want this. The Audio Control doesn't allow that to happen.
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:22 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
Oh ok this changes things a bit. You'll need a high/low converter and the amp you buy needs to have a remote bass knob. If not you won't be able to control the bass out put.

This is what you need. The knob goes with the Alpine amp.

Amazon.com: Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6: Electronics


Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control: Electronics


By the way aftermarket HUs are way better than the stock unit.

It's about 500$ total. Talk to me about the converter. Where does it go? Aftermarket HU's are better for amps, but the gps, ford sync, and music is better with factory


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Old 08-09-2014, 02:03 PM   #12
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It's about 500$ total. Talk to me about the converter. Where does it go? Aftermarket HU's are better for amps, but the gps, ford sync, and music is better with factory


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The converter will tap into the rear speakers...very easy.

I have an Alpine 957hd with a 7" inch with gps and all the bells and whistles. I use it with that with the idatalink Maestro and it works like factory...it's flawless. It cost me around 1500.00 for every thing. The ford system is probably around 4 grand. Mine is superior in every way.

Pre outs for amps
Eq
Time alignment
24 bit converters
Media expander for compressed music
So much more than any stock system..

Don't get me wrong your system is nice but you can't do anything with it.
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
The converter will tap into the rear speakers...very easy.



I have an Alpine 957hd with a 7" inch with gps and all the bells and whistles. I use it with that with the idatalink Maestro and it works like factory...it's flawless. It cost me around 1500.00 for every thing. The ford system is probably around 4 grand. Mine is superior in every way.



Pre outs for amps

Eq

Time alignment

24 bit converters

Media expander for compressed music

So much more than any stock system..



Don't get me wrong your system is nice but you can't do anything with it.

You think someone would buy the factory hu for 4k?


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Old 08-09-2014, 03:07 PM   #14
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You think someone would buy the factory hu for 4k?


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Yours or in general?

My wife has a 2014 Fusion hybrid with all the bells and whistles. She also has the My Touch system. I'm going to see if I can find the stick to see the actual price of it.
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
Yours or in general?



My wife has a 2014 Fusion hybrid with all the bells and whistles. She also has the My Touch system. I'm going to see if I can find the stick to see the actual price of it.

Just in general. I rather not spend 1500$ on something like that, but if I can sell my system or at least break even that's ok with me


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Old 08-10-2014, 12:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
Yours or in general?



My wife has a 2014 Fusion hybrid with all the bells and whistles. She also has the My Touch system. I'm going to see if I can find the stick to see the actual price of it.

Just in general. I rather not spend 1500$ on something like that, but if I can sell my system or at least break even that's ok with me


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Old 08-24-2014, 09:46 PM   #17
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Oh one more thing. What is 2Ω + 2Ω/4Ω + 4Ω?


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that means they are DVC (Dual Voice Coils) Most amps like to run at four ohms unless its a mono block. depending on how many subs and the amp you are trying to get this is where the choice in subs (2 ohm DVC) or (4 ohm DVC).

A 2 ohm dvc sub can be 1 ohm or 4 ohm depending on the wiring of the sub, series or parallel. A 4 ohm dvc can be 2 ohm or 8 ohm.

Now when getting 2 or more ohms law still works the same. A monoblock amp with two 2 ohm dvc subs wired in parallel then in series would give you a 2 ohm load for your amp which would be fine.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:07 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
The converter will tap into the rear speakers...very easy.



I have an Alpine 957hd with a 7" inch with gps and all the bells and whistles. I use it with that with the idatalink Maestro and it works like factory...it's flawless. It cost me around 1500.00 for every thing. The ford system is probably around 4 grand. Mine is superior in every way.



Pre outs for amps

Eq

Time alignment

24 bit converters

Media expander for compressed music

So much more than any stock system..



Don't get me wrong your system is nice but you can't do anything with it.

How do you figure that the Ford system is $4k? Looks like a nice head unit. When you said $1,500 for "everything", I am assuming you meant the Alpine and the Maestro. What is the rest of the set-up like?


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Old 08-25-2014, 09:36 AM   #19
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Mrv m500. Audio control LC2I converter. Corner mount box. Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level. Alpine Type-R SWR-10D2 10"


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