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Old 08-13-2014, 06:54 PM   #1
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Sub Setup

I am in the market to get a few subs for my 2012 mustang. I was curious and wanted to see other peoples setups. Also please add how much weight your setup added to your car.
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:58 AM   #2
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The sky is the limit. I'd probably be tempted to make small fiberglass enclosures for 8s in the doors. If not that, I'd want to suspend something from the rear deck. If that's still a no-go, then I'd probably opt for a couple 10s due to the small airspace requirement that they would have (ie: less material). There's a guy on DIYMA (iirc) that did an infinite baffle install, but there's a bit more to that...


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Old 08-24-2014, 09:35 PM   #3
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I have a Infinity bass link, I used it in my Jeep for years and will now put it in my fast back. It gives good bottom end for rock but not sure it will give you what you want if you listen to rap. My bass link weighs about 5 -10 lbs and is quite clean. If you dont have an open space, like a hatchback and have a sealed trunk, I dont recommend this.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:30 PM   #4
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Just finished installing the Shelby / Kicker upgrade in my '13 which includes the 8" subs for the doors and a 10" powered one for the trunk. I liked the plug and play aspects and the fact that the sub is pretty compact and tucks nicely out of the way in the right corner of the trunk. Sounds way better than OEM and I'm extremely pleased with the set up.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:10 AM   #5
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Thanks for the tip Jeff. Where did you find the components for the Shelby/Kicker upgrade?
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:51 AM   #6
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The Kicker upgrades are pretty garbage. Don't get me wrong, if you like them, more power to you because they are plug and play. I wish that they would be enough for me. What you really need to do is get either an aftermarket processor or head unit and some means of amplification (one or two amps most likely) for the new speakers (which should not be Kicker, nor should they be Infinity... look into Image Dynamics CTX65cs, CDT components, or Alpine Type X). For subwoofer/s there are so many choices but nearly anything you can go buy at your local best buy or car audio store is going to sound awful. Even if you don't care about quality and just want volume, you should get a sound processor or head unit, amp, and sub. But when you're in that deep it makes little to no sense not to replace the über-junk stock speakers.


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Old 08-25-2014, 12:40 PM   #7
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Thanks for the tip Jeff. Where did you find the components for the Shelby/Kicker upgrade?
www.shelbystore.com
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:46 PM   #8
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The Kicker upgrades are pretty garbage. Don't get me wrong, if you like them, more power to you because they are plug and play. I wish that they would be enough for me. What you really need to do is get either an aftermarket processor or head unit and some means of amplification (one or two amps most likely) for the new speakers (which should not be Kicker, nor should they be Infinity... look into Image Dynamics CTX65cs, CDT components, or Alpine Type X). For subwoofer/s there are so many choices but nearly anything you can go buy at your local best buy or car audio store is going to sound awful. Even if you don't care about quality and just want volume, you should get a sound processor or head unit, amp, and sub. But when you're in that deep it makes little to no sense not to replace the über-junk stock speakers.


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I think the "garbage" comment is completely unwarranted. The Shelby/Kicker system is not going to give you window rattling power, that's true but if you care about the clarity and definition of the sound, that's what this system is all about. It's light years ahead of OEM. If you want to compete for blown eardrums, this would not be your system. The complete upgrade come with a signal processing amp that by-passes the OEM amp for the 6x8s and provides a sub out signal for the trunk woofer which has it's own amplifier. Do you want sound or noise?
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:49 PM   #9
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I think the "garbage" comment is completely unwarranted. The Shelby/Kicker system is not going to give you window rattling power, that's true but if you care about the clarity and definition of the sound, that's what this system is all about. It's light years ahead of OEM. If you want to compete for blown eardrums, this would not be your system. The complete upgrade come with an amp for the 6x8s and provides a sub out signal for the trunk woofer which has it's own amplifier. Do you want sound or noise?

Sound. I listen to music softly. Considerably below the level that most reasonable people like to listen at. The Kicker stuff is actually great at making noise. It's not great at accurately representing source material. I think you have it completely backwards, to be honest. I will agree that it is considerably better than OEM. It's just considerably worse than equipment that can be had for much cheaper. Some folks really dig the plug and play aspect, though, and that's cool too.


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Old 08-25-2014, 01:58 PM   #10
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Thanks Jeff, I'm no audiophile, and not cooperative competitive about my stereo, just would like more, "oomph". Aside from the price, sounds like this fits the bill for my needs.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:09 PM   #11
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Sound. I listen to music softly. Considerably below the level that most reasonable people like to listen at. The Kicker stuff is actually great at making noise. It's not great at accurately representing source material. I think you have it completely backwards, to be honest. I will agree that it is considerably better than OEM. It's just considerably worse than equipment that can be had for much cheaper. Some folks really dig the plug and play aspect, though, and that's cool too.


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I get where you're coming from and the price is a turn off for me, but I'm invested in maintaining the current head unit as I run the Raxiom nav unit.

Plug and play is very tempting for me, but I'm also a cheapskate
That said I'm very comfortable with a soldering iron and fiberglass so I'll be tempted to see if I can piece together equivalent components for less.

I appreciate the feedback, and also that Jeff brought an option to my attention that I previously knew nothing about.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:18 PM   #12
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Sub Setup

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I get where you're coming from and the price is a turn off for me, but I'm invested in maintaining the current head unit as I run the Raxiom nav unit.



Plug and play is very tempting for me, but I'm also a cheapskate

That said I'm very comfortable with a soldering iron and fiberglass so I'll be tempted to see if I can piece together equivalent components for less.



I appreciate the feedback, and also that Jeff brought an option to my attention that I previously knew nothing about.

Keeping a stock head unit is not complicated but does make things more expensive. You'd want something like a JBL MS-8 or Audison Bit.Ten to handle the processing and aftermarket amp addition for you. The stock speaker locations are fairly good, actually, so install wouldn't be too bad. You can get away with a cheap component set ($200 or less), an efficient subwoofer (I'd say try to nab a 12", port it, and give it 500w at least--$200), a 4 channel amp with bridged channels 3 and 4 to handle the subwoofer ($250), and a processor (these can get a lot more expensive). Then you have some basics like a wiring kit, some MDF to make baffles and the subwoofer enclosure with, and you're at roughly $100 more. I'd put you in the neighborhood of $1,000 to do it yourself and it will sound absurdly, incredibly better than the Kicker "OEM upgrade" stuff. If that's something you are still interested in, I would be happy to help in whatever way possible. If you'd rather spring $300 extra for a plug-and-play kit, I wouldn't blame you, but just know that the sound quality is not in the same league.

Edit: I may have gotten away from the original post where I see the chief concern is subwoofer. I really recommend you upgrade the front stage while you are at it. If you do not want to do that, you can get a ported 15" that slams with a 1.5kw amp for the same price or likely less. The reason I bring this up is because most often when people opt out of upgrading their front stage they normally do want something absurdly loud.

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Old 08-25-2014, 02:40 PM   #13
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Sound. I listen to music softly. Considerably below the level that most reasonable people like to listen at. The Kicker stuff is actually great at making noise. It's not great at accurately representing source material. I think you have it completely backwards, to be honest. I will agree that it is considerably better than OEM. It's just considerably worse than equipment that can be had for much cheaper. Some folks really dig the plug and play aspect, though, and that's cool too.


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Alright then, I'm perfectly happy to agree to disagree. Try not to be too frustrated about that. Music preference is a very subjective and individual thing. What one person likes, another will not, so you have to buy for yourself and respect what other knowledgeable people buy for themselves. It's a topic where there's no established right or wrong answer, an endless debate of opinion if you will.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:46 PM   #14
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Alright then, I'm perfectly happy to agree to disagree. Try not to be too frustrated about that. Music preference is a very subjective and individual thing. What one person likes, another will not, so you have to buy for yourself and respect what other knowledgeable people buy for themselves. It's a topic where there's no established right or wrong answer, an endless debate of opinion if you will.

I understand where you're coming from, and yes audio is definitely subjective and there are many "agree to disagree" situations. I just figure that a speaker that is able to more accurately represent the signal it is presented with is always better. Now as far as how that signal is tuned, that is definitely where personal preference comes into play. I used to say flat frequency responses were ideal. Now I say smooth, because flat means that 30hz is just as loud as 2khz. Plenty of people like their bass louder than their treble, though, such as my father. And that's totally cool! But people generally like a smooth increase or decrease in volume as opposed to anomalies in the frequency response where the speaker seemingly just decides to stop representing source material faithfully. Ultimately, I am happy that you found something that you enjoy and that works for you. After all, that is what modifying a car is all about.


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Old 08-26-2014, 03:34 PM   #15
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I'm happy with the Kicker 6x8s as they have the titanium dome tweeter which gives a little "brighter" treble than other tweeter materials. The closest similar 6x8s sold directly by Kicker (not through Shelby) have silk tweeters, so maybe the Shelby/Kickers are unique? I like the brighter highs effect, in part because I believe I've suffered some high frequency hearing loss. I also like bass that has a tight thump to it as opposed to a rumbling roaming vibrating boom, which is the way the OEM system was. I don't like the bass to overpower everything else, rather it should fill out. The Shelby/Kicker system works pretty well for me.

Perhaps we all prefer a flat EQ but depending on our hearing ability different tuning / systems deliver the right compensations?
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:37 PM   #16
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I'm happy with the Kicker 6x8s as they have the titanium dome tweeter which gives a little "brighter" treble than other tweeter materials. The closest similar 6x8s sold directly by Kicker (not through Shelby) have silk tweeters, so maybe the Shelby/Kickers are unique? I like the brighter highs effect, in part because I believe I've suffered some high frequency hearing loss. I also like bass that has a tight thump to it as opposed to a rumbling roaming vibrating boom, which is the way the OEM system was. I don't like the bass to overpower everything else, rather it should fill out. The Shelby/Kicker system works pretty well for me.

Perhaps we all prefer a flat EQ but depending on our hearing ability different tuning / systems deliver the right compensations?

It's hard to say. Generally people prefer smooth frequency response, but then you have people who just want disturbingly distorted, clipped-signal type bass, and other strange anomalies.


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Old 09-02-2014, 10:27 AM   #17
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I put 2 10" memphis subs with a 500 watt amp. It actually surprised me with how loud they are. The install looks really good IMO. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-02-2014, 10:41 AM   #18
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I put 2 10" memphis subs with a 500 watt amp. It actually surprised me with how loud they are. The install looks really good IMO. Attachment 165012Attachment 165013


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For cheap subs, Memphis is actually not terrible. My first subwoofers were Memphis PRs. They weren't great, but they did the job. Of course that was back in the day when I liked the booming bass.


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Old 09-02-2014, 10:49 AM   #19
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I put 2 10" memphis subs with a 500 watt amp. It actually surprised me with how loud they are. The install looks really good IMO. Attachment 165012Attachment 165013


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Nice setup. Did you build the box yourself?
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:02 AM   #20
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No. I took it to a local stereo shop and showed him what I wanted. He had the boxes already set up. Not sure if he built them or bought them already. Then he cut the wood around the box the fill in the voided space.


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Old 09-02-2014, 03:32 PM   #21
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I don't have a custom build, So it was hard to get some boxes in there... After I'm done with my performance mods, I'll go with a custom build using the back half of the trunk only... But for now it's this :



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Old 09-07-2014, 07:16 PM   #22
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I want some sub's but I need my trunk space. I may just get good door and rear window speakers.

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Old 09-08-2014, 08:18 AM   #23
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I want some sub's but I need my trunk space. I may just get good door and rear window speakers.

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You can hang a sub from the rear deck. Or you can install a sub box into the side of the trunk. Or you can run infinite baffle (not for the faint of heart in terms of install, but sounds great). You can easily put the right 10" sub in a one cubic foot box and call it a day--that's probably what I would do. You can fiberglass an enclosure into the side of the trunk, or I'd be willing to bet someone already makes one for your car aftermarket that you can just buy.


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Old 09-09-2014, 02:47 PM   #24
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I want some sub's but I need my trunk space. I may just get good door and rear window speakers.

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There's a box on eBay that allows you to use the backside of the trunk with 2 10" subs and an amp (Behind the box) and you still get the biggest part of the trunk for whatever you need...

The reason I didn't go that route is because I wanted 12" subs.
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:26 AM   #25
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I put 2 10" memphis subs with a 500 watt amp. It actually surprised me with how loud they are. The install looks really good IMO. Attachment 165012Attachment 165013


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How did you get the speakers there??are they inside the rear seats??
Looks pretty damn good


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Old 10-23-2014, 01:45 PM   #26
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It's actually just a smaller box that is sitting on the hump behind the back seats. Then there is just an outer board cut to fit around it to make it look better than just a box sitting there.


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Old 10-23-2014, 02:24 PM   #27
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It's actually just a smaller box that is sitting on the hump behind the back seats. Then there is just an outer board cut to fit around it to make it look better than just a box sitting there.


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I did the same thing in my Charger. If you are not right on the air space, this is a great way to set up the trunk. I didn't even have to wrap the enclosure I made, I just did the false wall with black vinyl.


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Old 10-30-2014, 04:50 PM   #28
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I had a 10" Rockford Fosgate Power series. 1800 watts never sounded so good. Only problem was I was running the stock tweeters. I upgraded cars and unfortunately had to let the system go with it. I have an 04 with the Mach 1000 in it now. I'd say it's probably got ⅝ of the bass. But the quality of music blows my other system away. Only downside, I have 0 trunk space. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-31-2014, 08:31 AM   #29
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1800w RMS? What kind of electrical upgrades did you do?


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Old 10-31-2014, 04:40 PM   #30
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I had to get a converter box, but I ended up blowing all the speakers in my car. The guy who put it in just ran it threw my headunit. So he screwed it up.


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Old 11-06-2014, 07:00 PM   #31
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I had a 10" JL sub in a JL ported box but am ditching it due to space and will be installing a Class D 10" Bazooka tonight. We'll see if it's any good, but I want the trunk space back more than anything.

Hey, where's the best/easiest place to tap for key-on power?

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Old 11-06-2014, 07:03 PM   #32
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The battery. This is the only place to get quality power that won't kill your alternator. Just run a power cord under your trim.


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Old 11-06-2014, 07:20 PM   #33
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I'm talking about the remote wire, not the power wire. If I ran the remote wire there it would drain the battery.

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Old 11-12-2014, 11:52 AM   #34
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200 watt Class D Bazooka...after hooking it all up and finally double checking everything, I even had a local audio shop QC the install. Bottom line, a tube - type sub is not in its element closed up in a trunk. Great for a hatch, SUV or truck, not for a closed environment. Luckily it only cost $300. Back to the drawing board..

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Old 11-12-2014, 03:52 PM   #35
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No, those things suck. Always.


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