I am in the market to get a few subs for my 2012 mustang. I was curious and wanted to see other peoples setups. Also please add how much weight your setup added to your car.
The sky is the limit. I'd probably be tempted to make small fiberglass enclosures for 8s in the doors. If not that, I'd want to suspend something from the rear deck. If that's still a no-go, then I'd probably opt for a couple 10s due to the small airspace requirement that they would have (ie: less material). There's a guy on DIYMA (iirc) that did an infinite baffle install, but there's a bit more to that...
I have a Infinity bass link, I used it in my Jeep for years and will now put it in my fast back. It gives good bottom end for rock but not sure it will give you what you want if you listen to rap. My bass link weighs about 5 -10 lbs and is quite clean. If you dont have an open space, like a hatchback and have a sealed trunk, I dont recommend this.
Just finished installing the Shelby / Kicker upgrade in my '13 which includes the 8" subs for the doors and a 10" powered one for the trunk. I liked the plug and play aspects and the fact that the sub is pretty compact and tucks nicely out of the way in the right corner of the trunk. Sounds way better than OEM and I'm extremely pleased with the set up.
The Kicker upgrades are pretty garbage. Don't get me wrong, if you like them, more power to you because they are plug and play. I wish that they would be enough for me. What you really need to do is get either an aftermarket processor or head unit and some means of amplification (one or two amps most likely) for the new speakers (which should not be Kicker, nor should they be Infinity... look into Image Dynamics CTX65cs, CDT components, or Alpine Type X). For subwoofer/s there are so many choices but nearly anything you can go buy at your local best buy or car audio store is going to sound awful. Even if you don't care about quality and just want volume, you should get a sound processor or head unit, amp, and sub. But when you're in that deep it makes little to no sense not to replace the über-junk stock speakers.
The Kicker upgrades are pretty garbage. Don't get me wrong, if you like them, more power to you because they are plug and play. I wish that they would be enough for me. What you really need to do is get either an aftermarket processor or head unit and some means of amplification (one or two amps most likely) for the new speakers (which should not be Kicker, nor should they be Infinity... look into Image Dynamics CTX65cs, CDT components, or Alpine Type X). For subwoofer/s there are so many choices but nearly anything you can go buy at your local best buy or car audio store is going to sound awful. Even if you don't care about quality and just want volume, you should get a sound processor or head unit, amp, and sub. But when you're in that deep it makes little to no sense not to replace the über-junk stock speakers.
I think the "garbage" comment is completely unwarranted. The Shelby/Kicker system is not going to give you window rattling power, that's true but if you care about the clarity and definition of the sound, that's what this system is all about. It's light years ahead of OEM. If you want to compete for blown eardrums, this would not be your system. The complete upgrade come with a signal processing amp that by-passes the OEM amp for the 6x8s and provides a sub out signal for the trunk woofer which has it's own amplifier. Do you want sound or noise?
Thanks Jeff, I'm no audiophile, and not cooperative competitive about my stereo, just would like more, "oomph". Aside from the price, sounds like this fits the bill for my needs.
I'm happy with the Kicker 6x8s as they have the titanium dome tweeter which gives a little "brighter" treble than other tweeter materials. The closest similar 6x8s sold directly by Kicker (not through Shelby) have silk tweeters, so maybe the Shelby/Kickers are unique? I like the brighter highs effect, in part because I believe I've suffered some high frequency hearing loss. I also like bass that has a tight thump to it as opposed to a rumbling roaming vibrating boom, which is the way the OEM system was. I don't like the bass to overpower everything else, rather it should fill out. The Shelby/Kicker system works pretty well for me.
Perhaps we all prefer a flat EQ but depending on our hearing ability different tuning / systems deliver the right compensations?
It's hard to say. Generally people prefer smooth frequency response, but then you have people who just want disturbingly distorted, clipped-signal type bass, and other strange anomalies.
For cheap subs, Memphis is actually not terrible. My first subwoofers were Memphis PRs. They weren't great, but they did the job. Of course that was back in the day when I liked the booming bass.
No. I took it to a local stereo shop and showed him what I wanted. He had the boxes already set up. Not sure if he built them or bought them already. Then he cut the wood around the box the fill in the voided space.
I don't have a custom build, So it was hard to get some boxes in there... After I'm done with my performance mods, I'll go with a custom build using the back half of the trunk only... But for now it's this :
You can hang a sub from the rear deck. Or you can install a sub box into the side of the trunk. Or you can run infinite baffle (not for the faint of heart in terms of install, but sounds great). You can easily put the right 10" sub in a one cubic foot box and call it a day--that's probably what I would do. You can fiberglass an enclosure into the side of the trunk, or I'd be willing to bet someone already makes one for your car aftermarket that you can just buy.
It's actually just a smaller box that is sitting on the hump behind the back seats. Then there is just an outer board cut to fit around it to make it look better than just a box sitting there.
I did the same thing in my Charger. If you are not right on the air space, this is a great way to set up the trunk. I didn't even have to wrap the enclosure I made, I just did the false wall with black vinyl.
I had a 10" Rockford Fosgate Power series. 1800 watts never sounded so good. Only problem was I was running the stock tweeters. I upgraded cars and unfortunately had to let the system go with it. I have an 04 with the Mach 1000 in it now. I'd say it's probably got ⅝ of the bass. But the quality of music blows my other system away. Only downside, I have 0 trunk space.
I had to get a converter box, but I ended up blowing all the speakers in my car. The guy who put it in just ran it threw my headunit. So he screwed it up.
I had a 10" JL sub in a JL ported box but am ditching it due to space and will be installing a Class D 10" Bazooka tonight. We'll see if it's any good, but I want the trunk space back more than anything.
Hey, where's the best/easiest place to tap for key-on power?
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200 watt Class D Bazooka...after hooking it all up and finally double checking everything, I even had a local audio shop QC the install. Bottom line, a tube - type sub is not in its element closed up in a trunk. Great for a hatch, SUV or truck, not for a closed environment. Luckily it only cost $300. Back to the drawing board..
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Not sure how much weight it added but I threw an old fogsate amp and 10" sub in and it sounds pretty good. I've had them for almost ten years, the sub is in a box that was in my trunk so it's on the small side. I want to eventually mount this one on the side out of the way or get a better custom box.
I was going to go back outside and pull the pic knick blanket and roadside emergency kit out so it looked nicer for the pick but I thought I'd keep it real and show you what it looks like everyday. It's really not messy that's all that's in there.
For $90 more than the Bazooka, I just ordered a Rockford P300X1 amp, Rockford P2D4-10 sub, and a sealed box just big enough to hold the sub
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