Since I ran in to a lot of dead ends when trying to get this done (with out a lockpick), I figured I'd make a detailed how to.
I chose to use go with the back up camera spoiler. Two reasons: One, its completely stock looking And two, I liked the slightly bigger spoiler with the indents on top.
1. Source your back up camera
. If you want the spoiler, I found a scratched one on ebay for $160.
1b. if you get the OEM back up cam spoiler, you'll need this part so you connect it with out splicing the connector: Motorcraft WPT-1130
How to wire it:
Originally Posted by 8 pins on WPT-1130
pin 1 = power 12v+ (red wire)
pin 2 = NOT USED (blue wire)
pin 3 = ground 12v- (black wire)
pin 4 = shield for video pair (black wire)
pin 5 =
pin 6 = video + (white wire)
pin 7 = video - (white wire)
pin 8 =
2. Run a
Cat5, Cat3, or "security cam" wire
(shielded video with power pair next to it) from camera in rear
(license plate or rear lid for spoiler) to passenger footwell
. I've seen directions for people tapping the wires at the back of the nav. screen but I think its easier & better to tap it at the passenger footwell connector C210. You can also tap the close by fuse box for 12v+ power.
C210 (passenger footwell connector - not C20 )
power 12v+ goes to passenger Fuse Box, FUSE # 29 (unused, reads 8v when key is turned)
ground 12v- connect to ground wire between C210 & doorjam (or ground anywhere you have clean metal/bolt)
video shied = bare wire with black tape on it, located at pin 33 on connector C210. It should be prewired from there to go to C2123 pin 2 on the back of the nav screen.
video + = white/green wire, located at pin 21 on C210. From there it goes to C2123 pin 3.
video - = brown/purple, located at pin 22 on C210. From there it goes to C2123 pin 9.
For my purposes, I used a Cat5 and used the blue pair for video (most twists), the orange pair for 12v+ & -, and any other wire for the "shield" wire and I've had zero issues with static, etc... The twisted pair is as effective as using a shielded wire IMO.
3. Splice connections on your wires at camera/trunk & passenger footwell, making sure the wires match. I like this type of connector: (no stripping, just stick in & clamp connector. plus its like gel coated to protect from oxidation/weather)
4. Remove Nav unit & send off to 4D Tech, Inc. | Ford Navigation Upgrade Kits and Accessories
I used the Raxiom Nav/radio install instructions (on American Muscle.com) to figure out how to disassemble the center console, then center dash piece. There are a lot of connecters on the back of it. ALL of them have some type of push pin to release the wire EXCEPT for the black antenna wire. And it is one of the shortest and hardest to remove wires, get a pair of long tipped plyers to grab metal connector and pull out!
5. Get back a week later, reinstall and it should work like a stock back up camera when the car is in reverse. No Lockpick or other aftermarket device.
My back up camera spoiler installed:
I decided to not use the LockPick device b/c I wanted my car more "stock". Now, there are few advantages to using a Lockpick, like you can add up to 4 cameras, view them at anytime, enter in an address while moving for up to 60 seconds, etc.. though it costs twice as much as the simple programming. If you want to install one of them, there are plenty of directions on how to on their website.
Also, if you happen to have a really smart Ford technician at your local dealership he technically should be able to do this by programming the Nav unit with the correct "Build As" data. Other's have compared 2 identical cars, except the back up cameras, noted the difference in the build as files, and made the changes manually. This is far above most technicians' heads and it would likely cost $100+- , so i decided to stop pursuing this route & just get it programmed at 4dtech.