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How to: add a back up camera to stock Navigation Sync unit

43K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  crjackson 
#1 · (Edited)
Since I ran in to a lot of dead ends when trying to get this done (with out a lockpick), I figured I'd make a detailed how to.

I chose to use go with the back up camera spoiler. Two reasons: One, its completely stock looking And two, I liked the slightly bigger spoiler with the indents on top.


1. Source your back up camera. If you want the spoiler, I found a scratched one on ebay for $160.

1b. if you get the OEM back up cam spoiler, you'll need this part so you connect it with out splicing the connector: Motorcraft WPT-1130 (approx $30)

How to wire it:
8 pins on WPT-1130 said:
pin 1 = power 12v+ (red wire)
pin 2 = NOT USED (blue wire)
pin 3 = ground 12v- (black wire)
pin 4 = shield for video pair (black wire)

pin 5 =
pin 6 = video + (white wire)
pin 7 = video - (white wire)
pin 8 =


2. Run a Cat5, Cat3, or "security cam" wire (shielded video with power pair next to it) from camera in rear (license plate or rear lid for spoiler) to passenger footwell. I've seen directions for people tapping the wires at the back of the nav. screen but I think its easier & better to tap it at the passenger footwell connector C210. You can also tap the close by fuse box for 12v+ power.

C210 (passenger footwell connector - not C20 )

power 12v+ goes to passenger Fuse Box, FUSE # 29 (unused, reads 8v when key is turned)

ground 12v- connect to ground wire between C210 & doorjam (or ground anywhere you have clean metal/bolt)

video shied = bare wire with black tape on it, located at pin 33 on connector C210. It should be prewired from there to go to C2123 pin 2 on the back of the nav screen.

video + = white/green wire, located at pin 21 on C210. From there it goes to C2123 pin 3.

video - = brown/purple, located at pin 22 on C210. From there it goes to C2123 pin 9.
For my purposes, I used a Cat5 and used the blue pair for video (most twists), the orange pair for 12v+ & -, and any other wire for the "shield" wire and I've had zero issues with static, etc... The twisted pair is as effective as using a shielded wire IMO.

3. Splice connections on your wires at camera/trunk & passenger footwell, making sure the wires match. I like this type of connector: (no stripping, just stick in & clamp connector. plus its like gel coated to protect from oxidation/weather)


4. Remove Nav unit & send off to 4D Tech, Inc. | Ford Navigation Upgrade Kits and Accessories = $140
I used the Raxiom Nav/radio install instructions (on American Muscle.com) to figure out how to disassemble the center console, then center dash piece. There are a lot of connecters on the back of it. ALL of them have some type of push pin to release the wire EXCEPT for the black antenna wire. And it is one of the shortest and hardest to remove wires, get a pair of long tipped plyers to grab metal connector and pull out!

5. Get back a week later, reinstall and it should work like a stock back up camera when the car is in reverse. No Lockpick or other aftermarket device.


My back up camera spoiler installed:




I decided to not use the LockPick device b/c I wanted my car more "stock". Now, there are few advantages to using a Lockpick, like you can add up to 4 cameras, view them at anytime, enter in an address while moving for up to 60 seconds, etc.. though it costs twice as much as the simple programming. If you want to install one of them, there are plenty of directions on how to on their website.

Also, if you happen to have a really smart Ford technician at your local dealership he technically should be able to do this by programming the Nav unit with the correct "Build As" data. Other's have compared 2 identical cars, except the back up cameras, noted the difference in the build as files, and made the changes manually. This is far above most technicians' heads and it would likely cost $100+- , so i decided to stop pursuing this route & just get it programmed at 4dtech.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
Will that camera work with the raxiom NAV unit?
1. You should buy the WPT-1130 pigtail - $30

2. Then one of these for the 12v FEMALE plug (one on left):

The red 12v+ & black 12-/ground will be used on this plug.

3. Then one of these to make your own RCA connector:

The white wires are the video, which will go to the RCA wire.


This would create a plug & play adapter from the OEM spoiler pigtail to any video/12v wire for aftermarket use.
 
#4 · (Edited)
This is the build as data from the ACM (Audio Control Module / Nav brick) of a GT Premium with Sync/Nav & the back up camera. Its very similar looking to a 2012 GT500's build as data I looked at.

If I had this information in hand earlier I may have been able to walk in to the dealership, asked to speak to a technician about programming the ACM with new build as data, and maybe gotten somewhere. Though I have a convertible, and someone TOLD me the build as data is different for them.

example build as data said:
ACM 727-01-01 2140 8C29 D016
ACM 727-01-02 0000 31

ACM 727-02-01 2E5F
ACM 727-03-01 1446

ACM 727-04-01 0000 2D0C 1F8B
ACM 727-04-02 062D 67

ACM 727-05-01 0A3E

ACM 727-06-01 0D42
ACM 727-07-01 0007 2F57 5B1E
ACM 727-07-02 76AD

ACM 727-08-01 000A 3335 5C05
ACM 727-08-02 649C

ACM 727-09-01 000A 3335 5C06
ACM 727-09-02 649D

ACM 727-10-01 080E 3C01 16A8
ACM 727-10-02 1F01 161F 4BE0
ACM 727-10-03 090D 090D 329F
ACM 727-10-04 7308 0ECB
Its just as easy to pay 4dtech the $140, as most dealers are going to want to charge you about $100 for this. But just in case anyone here has the IDS system at their disposal and wants to try this, etc.

Anybody NEAR New Orleans have access to an IDS system that I could read / edit the ACM build-as data with ?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Ok after doing some research using these 2 pages below, I think I've figured out what As Build data needs to be changed to program the Nav brick for a back up camera:

www.vrep.fordtechservice.dealerconn...in=XXXXXXXXXXXXX&Vehicle=&Year=&VR_Quickstart (to view Build As data)

and

www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=XXXXXXXXXXXXX (to view Window Stickers to confirm options)

I believe this is the Build As data needed for 13-14 GT Premiums:

727-01-01 xxxx 8D29 xxxx (cars with no Back Up Cameras)
727-01-01 xxxx 8C29 xxxx (for cars with Back Up Cameras)
727-01-01 xxxx 8DA9 xxxx (for cars with Back Up Cameras & Reverse Sensing/Security)

The first 4 numbers appear to always be 2100, unless you have Shaker Pro Sub then its 2140 (I believe).

The middle 4 are the ones that I'm 99% sure control the back up camera

The last 4 I believe have to do with heated seats & some other options.

You can use the 1st link above to view your Build As data, print it out, then modify the middle 4 #'s on the line 727-01-01 to fit your car's options. If you have a VIN # for a car with all of the same parts as yours + the part(s) that you're adding you can view its as build data & program your car with it after adding that hardware. You can use the 2nd link to confirm the options on the car as from the factory as the As Build data would expect your car to be built.

Than get a technician to enter manually using the following instructions:
IDS main menu > Special Tools > enter '53061'
- This allows the tech to only input as-built data to any module in the car
Programmable Module Installation > select 'ACM'
- Will prompt tech to add as-built data to the ACM
Add the As-Built data you want to flash to your car.
 
#6 ·
Code:
www.vrep.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/asbuilt/abreq.asp?vin=XXXXXXXXXXXXX&Vehicle=&Year=&VR_Quickstart
(to view Build As data)

and

Code:
www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=XXXXXXXXXXXXX
(to view Window Stickers to confirm options)
Fixed links so you can copy & paste them. Obviously replace the XXXXXXXXXXX with the VIN's you're trying to analyze.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I've successfully installed a backup camera in my 2014 mustang GT that has NAV. I installed a Boyo VTB123HD just above the license plate.

I have a few additional details to share.

I powered the camera from the same point that the OEM camera is powered from. The power is available from the same connector (described above in the first post) at the passenger kick panel, on pin 20 on connector C210. The fuse was already installed, that is F29 5A in the SJB, so there was no need to add a fuse.

I used an ELS27 adapter and Forscan to modify the as-built of the ACM. An ELM327 with a switch to switch between HS and MS CAN can also be used, but be cautious of cheap clones. Rather straight forward to use Forscan, but you need the extended version, which requires you to request a license, at the moment that is free.

I did a bit of sleuthing through as-builts for various cars with similar options as mine to figure out the exact bit to change to enable the camera. This should work for you, but obvious I can't guarantee it will and obviously there is the risk of bricking your ACM. I would recommend that when using Forscan, select only the ACM and not "all", this will restrict Forscan to looking only at the ACM.

Here is what I found on my sleuthing.

US cars (with similar options to mine) with Camera, premium sound (door subs, but no rear sub) and rear parking sensors seem to have
727-01-01 2100 8CA9 90
727-01-02 0888 C0

My car is
727-01-01 2500 8CA9 80
727-01-02 0888 00
while most of the rest of the 727 stuff was pretty much the same as my car.

What tripped me up initially was the difference between 2100 and 2500 and the second line 727-01-02. Now it is not as easily to find Canadian car VINs online, but I did find one, that was close enough, to formulate a guess that the -01-01 2500 and the -01-02 C0 difference is most likely something to do with a Canadian versus US car.

That led me to the conclusion that the camera is enabled by changing the 80 to 90 in the first line. Tried and bingo it worked.

So for my car I used,

727-01-01 2500 8CA9 90
727-01-02 0888 00

So I surmise, but cannot guarantee this should work for US cars also changing the 80 to a 90, I do not recommend changing anything else. For example:
727-01-01 2100 8CA9 90
727-01-02 0888 C0

If your car has some other value that 80, that I would suggest to change only the bit that is different between 80 and 90 in your value (ie. OR 10 with your value; windows calculator in programmer mode will do the OR). No guarantees ...

If I am not mistaken, the difference between 8CA9 and 8DA9 is a "parking assist active" message showing up on the touch screen with 8DA9, but I did not do enough trial and error to confirm for sure. Again cannot guarantee.

Of course all the above are missing the byte checksum at the end, that is needed to program with Forscan, it does not calculate it. PM me for how to calculate that.
 
#14 ·
.
.
That led me to the conclusion that the camera is enabled by changing the 80 to 90 in the first line. Tried and bingo it worked.
.
.

Firstly, thanks to OP c_rizzle for the wiring details & thanks to wystewart for the ACM module parameter change details.

I also have a Canadian Mustang (2011 GT Convertible) that has NAV but didn't have a backup camera. I installed an aftermarket backup camera & activated it with FORScan yesterday. Here are my ACM module parameter details:

Original:
727-01-01 2540 8D29 80DB
727-01-02 0888 C1

New:
727-01-01 2540 8D29 90DB
727-01-02 0888 C1

Bingo! It worked for me too!
 
#11 ·
Nice informative post ! I am wondering if you could answer a question. First the background. Like you I want to add a backup camera to my 2012 GT. I bought the spoiler with camera off of ebay. I took the trunk lid cover down and sure enough there was a camera plug available. I plugged the camera in and sure enough it didn't work. So I went to the 4dtech site as you suggested and found they now offer a flash program that plugs into the OBDII diagnostic port and in a matter of seconds the nav unit is programmed to accept the camera. Sounds great right? So I called 4dtech and spoke with their man who informed me that the flash program would work for my car however he stated that there was no guarantee that the camera wiring actually existed or was plugged into the nav unit. So here's the question: IS THERE ANY EASY WAY TO TELL IF THE CAMERA WIRING HARNESS IS 100% THERE AND PLUGGED INTO THE NAV UNIT ? (not shouting at you) I'd sure like to make this camera work before drilling holes in the trunk.
Thanks for your response and any help you send my way !!

https://www.4dtech.com/rear-camera-programmer-for-sync-1-nav-radios/#reviews
 
#16 ·
I just thought I'd add some details about my installation because I found a few things confusing so hopefully this will help anyone else trying to install a backup camera..

Nomenclature:
FDIM - this is the display unit
ACM - this is the DVD/HDD unit that sits beneath the FDIM

The first mistake I made was immediately after watching a youtube video of a couple guys installing a backup camera on a 2013 Mustang. It looked so easy but to my surprise, after I pulled the dash apart, I didn't find a video port on the back of the FDIM nor the ACM. I realize now that they were installing a camera for a RAXIOM aftermarket system. Doh!

The next mistake would have been to order a Sync 1 camera interface like the one sold by 4dtech or this one: https://www.infotainment.com/products/sync1-radio-camera-interface If you look at the photo in the link, you can see the cable is plugged into the back of the ACM. When I tested for continuity using a multi-meter between the video related pins on connector C210 and the ACM connector shown in the photo, I didn't find anything. The video related pins on C210 are wired to the FDIM connector!

The wiring diagrams available here were extremely helpful:
Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - 2011 Mustang 2011 Mustang 131 - parking aid
 
#17 ·
14 Mustang GT Convertible Rearview Camera Install

All - first of all, thanks to the previous writers who put together excellent write-ups on how to install backup cameras into the mustang. I own a 2014 Mustang GT convertible with the big spoiler and no camera. Because of the blind spots caused by the ragtop and the spoiler, I wanted to install a backup camera. In doing this, I wanted to install a small, inconspicuous camera and utilize the on-board Navigation Display. I followed the guidance given above and on several other blogs and on video's to get it installed. I've noted that most of the other camera discussions I've seen seem to center on plug and play approaches - these are mainly OEM camera into OEM displays, or aftermarket cameras into aftermarket displays where you simply plug in a cable. For the OEM case, Ford uses differential video (V+, V-). Aftermarket cases typically use Composite Video (Yellow plug coaxial cable). I chose a hybrid of these two approaches - an aftermarket camera (Composite Video) to interface with the OEM display (Differential Video). What I have not seen discussed is how to interface them. Here is what I did on the installation - discussed below. Much of what I have written below is confirmation of many of the previous blogs and some insight into some other ideas. Hopefully, these details may be of assistance to the next installer:

ACM Module Software - Using FORScan, I updated the ACM Module as follows to turn on the camera function:

As Built Settings Line 1: 727-01-01 2100 8DA9 80 - 07
Line 2: 727-01-02 0888 C081

New Settings Line 1: 727-01-01 2100 8DA9 90 - 17
Line 2: 727-01-02 0888 C081

Changed 80 to 90. When saved, FORScan changes the 07 to 17. This is a checksum update and is done automatically by FORScan. I changed this back and forth several times - got the same result. This appears to work. When the car is put into reverse, the camera page opens on the display. On the display, using Settings, I turned on the camera. When the transmission is taken out of reverse and the car moves forward, the display switches to normal displays (e.g. map, home, media, etc.) as described in the owner's manual.

Display and Camera Wiring - I've seen some questions on whether you can tell if camera wiring is present or not. There have been several nice pictures of connector C210. The top half of the connector contains the wiring that goes forward to the Display. The bottom half of the connector contains wiring that goes to the rear of the car where the camera should be. In my car (no camera installed), camera wiring was present on the top half of connector C210. On the bottom half of the connector, there was no wiring or even pins present in the connector for the camera function (Pins 20, 21, 22 and 33 for Power, Video+, Video-, and Shield, respectively)). So all my wiring for the camera dealt with the top half of the connector.

Ground - Installed a ground wire for the camera on an exposed nut in the spare tire well.

Connector C210, As noted on several blogs, Connector C210 offers an easier approach to wiring the camera rather than taking apart the console and pulling out the display. At connector C210, I added the following:
• Used wire splice for 12 v on pin 20, which goes to Fuse 29 (camera fuse). This reads ~11 volts with the key on. Ran a power line to the camera mounted by the license plate.
• I originally tried to tap pins 21 and 22 for Video+ and Video- using small, plastic wire splices. I had a problem getting a good connection with them, so I tried an alternate approach that worked out much better. I ground down blade connectors so that they would fit into the back side of Connector C210. Once installed, they were zip tied into place. Good solid connection, not going anywhere.

Each of the splices and taps were verified to ensure that I had good connection.

Camera - bought a small, inexpensive camera (~1" cube) and mounted it on the panel above the license plate as was shown on several other blogs. Pulled the cable through the hole leading to the right tail light.

Before installing the camera, I tried to bench test the camera by plugging into my TV. Unfortunately, my TV's are newer and don't have a Composite Video input (Yellow Plug); they only have Component Video (Green, Blue, Red Plugs). The camera only provided video signal in the Green port, nothing in the other 2 ports. Video was very poor and black and white only. Couldn't tell from this test whether I had a defective camera or a bad test. Turns out it was a bad test - camera worked fine once installed. Wish I had kept some of my old TV's for such an occasion. But that got me to thinking about how to interface Composite video to Differential Video.

Video Interface - As noted above, most of the aftermarket cameras that I've seen use Composite Video (Yellow coax). The OEM Ford Cameras through C210 and the Display appear to use Differential Video (Video+ and Video-). What I found on my research is to use a balun to properly convert from a Balanced (Composite Video) line to an Unbalanced (Differential Video) line. I found a Composite Video Balun (Video Balun 50-7710) at MCM (Newark Electronics) that works. Fairly inexpensive, less than $11. Input is Composite, Output is V+ and V-. This worked out well.

While I didn't test splicing a Composite Cable directly into V+, V-, I believe this will actually work. However, due to the nature of how the signals get combined, I believe that the balun approach will result in a video signal at the display that is twice the strength of just using the Composite signal spliced into the V+, V- ports. So I went with the balun approach.

Operational Test - So far, so good. With the Software updated and working, with the +12 v and Ground patched into the camera and verified, and the video cable properly wired through the balun, I'm ready to try it out.

Turned on the car, put it in reverse, Voila!! We got Video!

Once again, thanks again to all the previous bloggers who contributed the collective knowledge base. Hope this write-up helps out the next installer.

Thanks,

John

Some pictures are included in the attached PDF document
 

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#18 ·
14 Mustang GT Convertible Rearview Camera Install

All - first of all, thanks to the previous writers who put together excellent write-ups on how to install backup cameras into the mustang. I own a 2014 Mustang GT convertible with the big spoiler and no camera. Because of the blind spots caused by the ragtop and the spoiler, I wanted to install a backup camera. In doing this, I wanted to install a small, inconspicuous camera and utilize the on-board Navigation Display. I followed the guidance given above and on several other blogs and on video's to get it installed. I've noted that most of the other camera discussions I've seen seem to center on plug and play approaches - these are mainly OEM camera into OEM displays, or aftermarket cameras into aftermarket displays where you simply plug in a cable. For the OEM case, Ford uses differential video (V+, V-). Aftermarket cases typically use Composite Video (Yellow plug coaxial cable). I chose a hybrid of these two approaches - an aftermarket camera (Composite Video) to interface with the OEM display (Differential Video). What I have not seen discussed is how to interface them. Here is what I did on the installation - discussed below. Much of what I have written below is confirmation of many of the previous blogs and some insight into some other ideas. Hopefully, these details may be of assistance to the next installer:

ACM Module Software - Using FORScan, I updated the ACM Module as follows to turn on the camera function:

As Built Settings Line 1: 727-01-01 2100 8DA9 80 - 07
Line 2: 727-01-02 0888 C081

New Settings Line 1: 727-01-01 2100 8DA9 90 - 17
Line 2: 727-01-02 0888 C081

Changed 80 to 90. When saved, FORScan changes the 07 to 17. This is a checksum update and is done automatically by FORScan. I changed this back and forth several times - got the same result. This appears to work. When the car is put into reverse, the camera page opens on the display. On the display, using Settings, I turned on the camera. When the transmission is taken out of reverse and the car moves forward, the display switches to normal displays (e.g. map, home, media, etc.) as described in the owner's manual.

Display and Camera Wiring - I've seen some questions on whether you can tell if camera wiring is present or not. There have been several nice pictures of connector C210. The top half of the connector contains the wiring that goes forward to the Display. The bottom half of the connector contains wiring that goes to the rear of the car where the camera should be. In my car (no camera installed), camera wiring was present on the top half of connector C210. On the bottom half of the connector, there was no wiring or even pins present in the connector for the camera function (Pins 20, 21, 22 and 33 for Power, Video+, Video-, and Shield, respectively)). So all my wiring for the camera dealt with the top half of the connector.

Ground - Installed a ground wire for the camera on an exposed nut in the spare tire well.

Connector C210, As noted on several blogs, Connector C210 offers an easier approach to wiring the camera rather than taking apart the console and pulling out the display. At connector C210, I added the following:
• Used wire splice for 12 v on pin 20, which goes to Fuse 29 (camera fuse). This reads ~11 volts with the key on. Ran a power line to the camera mounted by the license plate.
• I originally tried to tap pins 21 and 22 for Video+ and Video- using small, plastic wire splices. I had a problem getting a good connection with them, so I tried an alternate approach that worked out much better. I ground down blade connectors so that they would fit into the back side of Connector C210. Once installed, they were zip tied into place. Good solid connection, not going anywhere.

Each of the splices and taps were verified to ensure that I had good connection.

Camera - bought a small, inexpensive camera (~1" cube) and mounted it on the panel above the license plate as was shown on several other blogs. Pulled the cable through the hole leading to the right tail light.

Before installing the camera, I tried to bench test the camera by plugging into my TV. Unfortunately, my TV's are newer and don't have a Composite Video input (Yellow Plug); they only have Component Video (Green, Blue, Red Plugs). The camera only provided video signal in the Green port, nothing in the other 2 ports. Video was very poor and black and white only. Couldn't tell from this test whether I had a defective camera or a bad test. Turns out it was a bad test - camera worked fine once installed. Wish I had kept some of my old TV's for such an occasion. But that got me to thinking about how to interface Composite video to Differential Video.

Video Interface - As noted above, most of the aftermarket cameras that I've seen use Composite Video (Yellow coax). The OEM Ford Cameras through C210 and the Display appear to use Differential Video (Video+ and Video-). What I found on my research is to use a balun to properly convert from a Balanced (Composite Video) line to an Unbalanced (Differential Video) line. I found a Composite Video Balun (Video Balun 50-7710) at MCM (Newark Electronics) that works. Fairly inexpensive, less than $11. Input is Composite, Output is V+ and V-. This worked out well.

While I didn't test splicing a Composite Cable directly into V+, V-, I believe this will actually work. However, due to the nature of how the signals get combined, I believe that the balun approach will result in a video signal at the display that is twice the strength of just using the Composite signal spliced into the V+, V- ports. So I went with the balun approach.

Operational Test - So far, so good. With the Software updated and working, with the +12 v and Ground patched into the camera and verified, and the video cable properly wired through the balun, I'm ready to try it out.

Turned on the car, put it in reverse, Voila!! We got Video!

Once again, thanks again to all the previous bloggers who contributed the collective knowledge base. Hope this write-up helps out the next installer.

Thanks,

John

Some pictures are included in the attached PDF document
 
#19 ·
Hello geiseje, I am adding a back-up camera to my 2013 Mustang convertible. I have the 8" screen with nav system. I get a blurry picture with wrong colors. I tapped into the connector C210 on passenger side. I think I may need the Balun converter you talked about to clear up the video, any ideas on this system. Thanks
 
#20 ·
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Unfortunately geiseje hasn’t been on this site for years. I doubt you’ll get a reply from him.
 
#22 ·
Hi Guys. I’ve been following this thread for a while now and finally I pulled the trigger and bought Forscan 1 year license + the OBD dongle with MS/HS switch + Nikita flush mount back up camera. I’ve installed ot on 13 GT500 with Factory NAV. Let me just say its on par with OEM backup camera. Ill post pics later. Feel free to reach out if you need help.
 
#23 ·
I am looking at the posts and my issue is a little diferent, my car is equiped with the facory camera that display in the rear veiw mirror. I recently purchased a Navos unit and got it installed, when I put the car in reverse it actually displays like it has a camera with no image. My question is how can I wire the factory camera to the Navos unit, I bought RCA converters to plug it in but I dont know where to locate the wires.

Thanks for your help.
 
#26 ·
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Contact one of our vendors (Listed Below). You’ll probably have to telephone them, they’re new here, and also their website is new and still under construction.

They make devices that do what you want.

 
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