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Old 04-16-2015, 05:50 PM   #1
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2013 GT Shaker system

Is it worth upgrading the door subwoofers or any other speakers in the car?


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Old 04-16-2015, 06:13 PM   #2
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The door speakers above the subs are definitely worth upgrading! I just did mine. The factory ones are cheap garbage even in the shaker system. I got 6x8 kickers for $60 for the pair. Install is like a one hour job if you watch some videos first so you know how to get the panel off easy. I didn't use adapters, just cut and spliced the wires.
Way better tweeter and mid base sound.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:28 PM   #3
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What speakers would you recommend? I have the shaker system as well and know around zero about car audio.


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Old 04-16-2015, 08:44 PM   #4
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I know less than zero about speakers, I just found them at Walmart. Took a photo, went home and googled reviews on them. Trust me that anything name brand that's around $50 or more is night and day better than OEM. When you take your old ones out, you'll see. Tiny magnet and cheap paper material.
If you go to crutch field dot com, you can plug in your cars details and they recomend different options that fit. You can use either 5x7 or 6x8
I don't understand how the base stereo can be so bad in our cars but my wife's 13 fusion SE with standard stereo is like a concert hall.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:53 PM   #5
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Are these the Kicker speakers you are talking about?Click image for larger version

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Old 04-16-2015, 09:33 PM   #6
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No they're not round, they were 6x8 oval shape.
I found a photo, maybe they're not the best choice, idk but they're way better than stock.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:40 PM   #7
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Mounted in the door.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:43 PM   #8
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Thanks for info.


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Old 04-17-2015, 01:15 PM   #9
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With the 13-14 I believe you will also need a bracket or have to modify the old one. From my reading the newer years have the bracket as part of the speaker.


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Old 04-17-2015, 05:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
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With the 13-14 I believe you will also need a bracket or have to modify the old one. From my reading the newer years have the bracket as part of the speaker.


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Correct. The '13 & '14 shaker models have a goofy composite door speakers with an integrated mounting ring. To mount standard 6 x 9s you'll need the Ford adapter rings from a 2012 or older model.

I installed the full-on Shelby/Kicker kit, including door subs, trunk sub and 4.1 channel amplifier from Shelby Performance Parts. I am well pleased with the results, It's not the cheapest way to go but the fully plug 'n' play aspect is nice.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:28 PM   #11
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I have installed 4 Alpine speakers in my 14 Vert Premium. I have not changed subs. Does changing subs to say Kickers make a big difference in quality?


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Old 04-19-2015, 07:58 PM   #12
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I put an amp on the factory 8" woofers and they r very impressive for factory. I was planning on blowing them up and replacing them but they handle CLEAN. I want to stress this but clean power very well for a factory speaker.


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Old 04-19-2015, 11:15 PM   #13
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I was interested in installing the Kicker amp for the door speakers as well. Does anyone know if I could power the two door speakers and two door subs with the amp, leaving the rear deck speakers alone? I'm not wanting to put an amp in the trunk and looking for easiest install.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:45 AM   #14
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You could do a kicker amp on both. Just make sure you get a 2 or 4 channel amp. At the minimum you want the 8" on one amp and the other speakers on other channel. Keep those on separate channels to keep clean safe power running to your 8" so they don't distort and blow. Run a 4 channel if you want left and right control. You would run each speaker to its own channel this way.


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Old 04-20-2015, 06:31 AM   #15
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You could do a kicker amp on both. Just make sure you get a 2 or 4 channel amp. At the minimum you want the 8" on one amp and the other speakers on other channel. Keep those on separate channels to keep clean safe power running to your 8" so they don't distort and blow. Run a 4 channel if you want left and right control. You would run each speaker to its own channel this way.


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Yeah, I'm wanting to go with the kicker 4ch. I'm thinking I just need to order a male and female harness of the plug and build my own pre-amp crossover with the harness' changing which speaker wires feed into the amp. I believe they are already a low frequency signal for the door subs since that is where the rear sub instructions had me tap in.


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Old 04-20-2015, 06:37 AM   #16
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I would still use an Line converter. Forgive me if this is the wrong name. It will give you better sound quality and work your amp less. I'm running the kicker 4channel my self I belive its the 400.4 or 300.4 sounds great running 6 speakers of adjusted correctly


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Old 04-20-2015, 06:39 AM   #17
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With that amp I believe you will still have to convert it into rca before the amp.


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Old 04-20-2015, 06:53 AM   #18
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I don't believe the amp I'm looking at has RCAs. It is just supposed to plug in after the head unit and utilize stock wiring.


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Old 04-20-2015, 07:28 AM   #19
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Oh ok. That's different than what I'm using. Way different


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Old 04-20-2015, 01:55 PM   #20
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OK, so with the 2013 Shaker system, there is a separate amp that runs the door subs while the main amp runs the four 6 x 9s. It gets confusing because Ford seems to like to change this up every couple of years. I had representatives from both Shelby and Kicker working all this out. If you install the Shelby / Kicker 4.1 amp (pay close attention to the correct year and type of system you have) the four 6 x 9's are amped, which is what the 4 represents and a signal wire for trunk sub (the .1). The 8" door subs remain on the factory amplifier. If you install the Shelby/Kicker 8" subs, there will be some loss of volume because the factory subs are dual voice coil but the S/K ones are single voice coil, so you end up not using one set of leads on each side.

I found the sound nice and tight with good bass thump, but I had to raise the bass EQ quite a ways, about 3/4s the way up the scale, to really hear them. The sound was good though.

I've since added the S/K trunk sub and 3/4 scale on the bass EQ is now way too much bass for me, so I'm now down to flat EQ or maybe one to two bars additional bass, depending on the song. Under these conditions the S/K 8" door woofers kind of disappear and become more of a mid-range bass as opposed to a subwoofer.

In retrospect, if you're adding a S/K amp and upgrading the 6x9s but not going to add a trunk sub I would do one of the following with respect to the door subs:
1. Leave the factory door subs as they are, even if to my ears they sound a bit boomy and loose, not the tight controlled sound I prefer.
2. Install the S/K 8" door subs and boost the bass EQ on the head unit. Sounds pretty good this way to me.
3. Run a separate amp for the S/K door subs and back off the head unit EQ setting.
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:49 PM   #21
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I agree with that. I would recommend the 3rd option. I have an amp on the factory's and it cleaned up the sloppy bass a lot. My car at 1/4volume is twice as loud as factory all the way up. I have all speakers amped and replaced the 5x7s. Way cleaner power really helps the factory 8"


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Old 04-20-2015, 03:20 PM   #22
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I agree with that. I would recommend the 3rd option. I have an amp on the factory's and it cleaned up the sloppy bass a lot. My car at 1/4volume is twice as loud as factory all the way up. I have all speakers amped and replaced the 5x7s. Way cleaner power really helps the factory 8"


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Old 04-20-2015, 04:50 PM   #23
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OK, so here is what I am currently thinking (OP, sorry to derail thread, but I think it's still pretty on topic for you).

I have already added the Kicker VSS 10" in the trunk and love the bass it added. I will be adding Infinity Reference 6832cf to the doors and Shelby/Kicker 8" subs to the doors to fill as mid bass. I think this will sustain me for the time being. If I decide I need more, then the 400.1 will power the doors and rear deck, which I would then upgrade to the same Infinity speakers also.
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