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Old 02-09-2016, 06:46 PM   #1
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Exclamation Please Help! Big 3 and 5000 Watts!

Hey guys, I apologize for being newer than some of you to the forum. I've collected information from various posts to get to this point and hopefully get the 04 Chassis question about grounding answered once and for all.

I'm finishing up a car audio install on my 2004 Mustang GT and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. I'm posting this because there have only been tidbits of information regarding the 2004 install difficulties (mainly dealing with the chassis) SO I wanted to present everything I know and have done here and I look to the car audio forum gods for help!

Car: 2004 Mustang GT

Subs: 2x 3000 watt Boss subs (12") at 1093 watts RMS
Bass is set up to Sealed box with 4 gauge wire parallels 4ohm configuration. True 0 gauge wire run to a planet audio monoblock D amp (4000 Watts)

Amps: Bass - Planet Audio 4000 watt Monoblock D
Components - Boss R1100 A/B 4 channel

Components: 2x Infinity 6030CS Components and tweeters w/ crossover (1 set in front, 1 in rear)

Alternator: 250 amp

Battery: Shuriken BT140 COMING SOON

Power to amps setup:
- 0 gauge running from battery to monoblock D under rear seats, 0 gauge ground to back floor panel.
- 0 gauge running from battery to 1000 watt A/B in came location. 0 gauge Ground back to battery

*Using 16 gauge wire from 1000 Watt A/B to components
* Using 14 gauge Wire from 4000 Watt Monoblock D to Subs (parallels 4 ohm to 4 ohm amp)

As far as the Big 3, I believe I'm doing what is considered to be the big 4:

All in 0 gauge:

* Alternator + to Battery +
* Alternator - to Chassis -
* Battery - to Chassis -
* Engine Block to Chassis -

Question 1: As far as mustangs, I heard the Chassis is actually 2 parts, which makes grounding back there pointless. Should I run both amps - back to Battery - to be sure that it's coming back to a true - terminal?

Question 2: Also, what is the point of running Engine Block to Chassis -? And for that reason wouldn't it make sense to run that engine block - to Battery -?

As far as I know, testing - spots on alternator would be using a multimeter on both sides of the wire and testing Ohm's correct? and making sure it doesn't exceed the Ohm rating on the points of the wire itself (if I was just holding 2 ends of wire without being connected).

Question 3: What do I do with the factory wires that run to the battery terminal? just leave them connected? I can't quite tell where they go, but I was trying to clean up the connections that go to the battery.
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:50 PM   #2
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Region: Texas
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1.) I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly, but the Mustang has (always) been a uni-body car, so essentially any metal is grounded without going through bolts. There are factory amps in these cars and a grounding area up under the back seat that should do just fine. There might even be another grounding spot in the trunk for the mustangs equipped with the 2 10" subs and Mach 1000 amp. Heck, there's even a nice little bracket in the drivers side trunk where the fuel turn-off solenoid/switch thing is.
2.) I don't understand why you would want to mess with the engine block ground wires.
3.) I wouldn't mess with the factory wires, it's not like you can really tell they're there anyway. Unless you were to take out ALL of the factory speaker/radio wiring (which still might be more trouble than it's worth).
Sadie- '04 GT Auto- RMR#4837, 4-Point-SEXY
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