Well I am selling my car and the parts I bought to put in it have to go too. Here is what I got and what I want for them:
Engine Block from 96 Mustang bored .030 over and decked with new camshaft bearings - Spoken for
4.2L Crankshaft & Harmonic Balancer - Spoken for
Stage 3 Single Port heads with 3 angle valve job w/ .600 lift springs and head bolts/gaskets - 550 Dollars
Stage 3 Lower Intake w/ gasket - 200 dollars
Stage 3 Upper Intake Cut & Weld w/ gasket - 250 dollars
224/230 Camshaft with new pushrods and shims - 175 dollars
6 Ross Racing Forged Pistons 10:1 Compression ratio with pins and rings - 525 dollars
6 Eagle I-Beam Connecting Rods with new rod bearings - 200 dollars
Aluminum Flywheel - make offer
6 19# fuel injectors - make offer
Timing chain set - Make Offer
I am holding off on selling anything right now, I am trying to sell the car and parts together. I will get back to everyone that requested parts on this
I am holding off on selling anything right now, I am trying to sell the car and parts together. I will get back to everyone that requested parts on this
Flow is pretty much the same, I like Mik's exhaust porting, cams and pistons better.
That being said, Tom @ SSM puts out a fine product as well. Just depends on who has
the best setup for your needs. Buying used stuff means big savings but getting a combo
designed for someone else... Mik's combo's are mostly all custom built for each person
so make sure it will work for you!
I can help a potential buyer figure this out. If you do not like the cam I will
spec out a replacement for the buyer as a favor to Brent
The only parts that work for you is the crank kit...
crank, pistons, rods, balancer. The cam is too big,
unless you get the intake wildly ported and/or a
custom upper intake to match the cam.
OK I just got home from Columbia. I read a PM from Brent about what the Shop said to him. I am puzzled at this. Not only did I study the position of the bearing as to the placement in the hayne's book I also swapped bearing in every position to see if it would not make a difference. They will only go in one way because of the notched groove in the block. I made sure all the bearings were top and bottom which is indicated on the bearings. It is not that I am above making mistakes but I am not buying it. I spent hours trying every cap and bearing placement. Where they finally were when we stopped might not be the right position. If it was my fault I will gladly pay for the machine shop to check everything out and I will come back and install the engine.
OK I just got home from Columbia. I read a PM from Brent about what the Shop said to him. I am puzzled at this. Not only did I study the position of the bearing as to the placement in the hayne's book I also swapped bearing in every position to see if it would not make a difference. They will only go in one way because of the notched groove in the block. I made sure all the bearings were top and bottom which is indicated on the bearings. It is not that I am above making mistakes but I am not buying it. I spent hours trying every cap and bearing placement. Where they finally were when we stopped might not be the right position. If it was my fault I will gladly pay for the machine shop to check everything out and I will come back and install the engine.
Hmm oblong in design? Special Version? Wow if I was a ricer I would maybe buy that.
Sorry RGR, but I am going to go with brand new or remanufactured parts, looking into shortblocks
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