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Old 11-14-2012, 03:25 PM   #1
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Why am I leaking oil?

2005 Mustang GT Manual. I noticed 3 drops of oil going from side to side under my care. Apparently its been a short while because from the pic you can see the 3 drop fading and then the newest that I noticed today. What would cause this? And is it bad?
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:29 PM   #2
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Possibly a rear main seal. Is it bad, only if you don't keep an eye on your oil level.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:38 PM   #3
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can i continue to drive with it like this as long as the oil if full?
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:39 PM   #4
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Yes
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:44 PM   #5
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I have an 08 with 80k on it. Just did an oil pan gasket and a rear main seal. You're good for a while I'd suggest doing those gaskets when you upgrade the clutch to save some money.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:02 PM   #6
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I just called AM and they said to just have it changed when I do the clutch which will be this winter I guess... This car costs me more friggin $ than my kids do! I noticed the more Performance mods I have done the more **** that keeps breaking!
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:11 PM   #7
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I just called AM and they said to just have it changed when I do the clutch which will be this winter I guess... This car costs me more friggin $ than my kids do! I noticed the more Performance mods I have done the more **** that keeps breaking!
Haha yea that's the way of it. But you gotta drop the tranny to do those gaskets so it only makes sense.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:11 PM   #8
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Thumbs down

What's the normal replacement for a clutch, not Ford recommended, but realistically?
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:31 PM   #9
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What's the normal replacement for a clutch, not Ford recommended, but realistically?
You talkin cost?
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:52 PM   #10
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I read 50,000 mls or so. I have 51,000 and no slippage or anything but with all the mods I have, I was told to change the clutch from the stock before I have problems. Although I race Drags and Auto X so thats where I wouldnt want to run into problems...
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:00 PM   #11
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Unless it slips or you wanna upgrade there's really no reason. Or if you have problems in general. There's really no service interval for clutches. My last stock clutch only lasted 15k.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:27 PM   #12
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You talkin cost?
No mileage. I'm at 98k and it seems to be starting have a problem.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:43 PM   #13
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No mileage. I'm at 98k and it seems to be starting have a problem.
What kind of problem?
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:59 PM   #14
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What kind of problem?
Starting to get some bucking when in 1st and slowing then speeding up.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:06 AM   #15
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Starting to get some bucking when in 1st and slowing then speeding up.
Yea that's the springs wearing out if I'm not mistaken. Not a big deal. Wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:20 AM   #16
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Yea that's the springs wearing out if I'm not mistaken. Not a big deal. Wouldn't worry about it.
So I'm not getting firm contact with the clutch plate? I need to start ordering clutch parts. Do I need anything other than the clutch and TOB?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:40 AM   #17
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So I'm not getting firm contact with the clutch plate? I need to start ordering clutch parts. Do I need anything other than the clutch and TOB?
Ok so I'm gonna try to explain clutches as best I can, if you have any questions just ask me. First, bring up a picture of a clutch kit so this all makes sense. There are basically 4 main components, in this order front to back: flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, TOB/slave assembly. This is how it works: flywheel spins with the motor, clutch disk kind chills in the middle, pressure plate it activated by the slave which is activated by the pedal. The clutch disk is sandwiched between the flywheel and pressure plate, it's where the power is transferred from the engine to the transmission. On the disk you'll see some springs, those serve as shock absorbers and have no bearing on how the disk contacts either the PP or the FW. If it bucks a little, the springs are worn out, no big deal. If the clutch slips, it needs to be replaced. The easiest way to see if its slipping is to put it in 5th at like 30mph and floor it. The rpms will rise an the car won't accelerate right, it will also kinda buck. You'll know it's slipping.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:21 AM   #18
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Ok so I'm gonna try to explain clutches as best I can, if you have any questions just ask me. First, bring up a picture of a clutch kit so this all makes sense. There are basically 4 main components, in this order front to back: flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, TOB/slave assembly. This is how it works: flywheel spins with the motor, clutch disk kind chills in the middle, pressure plate it activated by the slave which is activated by the pedal. The clutch disk is sandwiched between the flywheel and pressure plate, it's where the power is transferred from the engine to the transmission. On the disk you'll see some springs, those serve as shock absorbers and have no bearing on how the disk contacts either the PP or the FW. If it bucks a little, the springs are worn out, no big deal. If the clutch slips, it needs to be replaced. The easiest way to see if its slipping is to put it in 5th at like 30mph and floor it. The rpms will rise an the car won't accelerate right, it will also kinda buck. You'll know it's slipping.
Thanks, I had a basic understanding of it, but I thought that the springs had more to do with the force against the clutch disk, but apparently they are more for transistion and like a shock absorber.
Now that I turn the radio down, I notice a rattle when letting off the accelerator and a bit of a clunk sound. But I think the clunk is the u joints in the drive shaft, (need to check those as well)
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:27 AM   #19
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Thanks, I had a basic understanding of it, but I thought that the springs had more to do with the force against the clutch disk, but apparently they are more for transistion and like a shock absorber.
Now that I turn the radio down, I notice a rattle when letting off the accelerator and a bit of a clunk sound. But I think the clunk is the u joints in the drive shaft, (need to check those as well)
Haha yea I thought of checking those too but there aren't any in out cars lol. It's just a clunky drivetrain. You gotta kinda learn to drive around the noise if that makes any sense lol
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:48 PM   #20
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Haha yea I thought of checking those too but there aren't any in out cars lol. It's just a clunky drivetrain. You gotta kinda learn to drive around the noise if that makes any sense lol
Are you saying there are no u joints? The connection to the yoke is a u joint, but the middle is a CV joint.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:57 PM   #21
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Are you saying there are no u joints? The connection to the yoke is a u joint, but the middle is a CV joint.
Yea I know. If you call for a u joint or look em up online there aren't any. They sell a kit for it if I'm not mistaken
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:29 PM   #22
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So bucking is the clutch? if i am accelerating as in normal driving with traffic it will start bucking. the bucking stops if i accelerate or let off the gas. i literally only need to touch the gas and it bucks alot. my wife wont even ride in it because it bounces her around lol...
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:36 PM   #23
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So bucking is the clutch? if i am accelerating as in normal driving with traffic it will start bucking. the bucking stops if i accelerate or let off the gas. i literally only need to touch the gas and it bucks alot. my wife wont even ride in it because it bounces her around lol...
Ehh that's more just a characteristic of clutch cars, mustangs seem to be especially rough though
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:26 PM   #24
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I bought this car new in 07 and didn't drive this way earlier, I'm at 97,000
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:40 PM   #25
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I bought this car new in 07 and didn't drive this way earlier, I'm at 97,000
Then I'd say the clutch is worn out. Don't screw around when you get one though. Get a good one.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:35 PM   #26
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I did that clutch test where I put it in 5th gear at about 30mph and floored it. it wouldnt go past 1500 rpms and was kinda boggy. i mean it was picking up speed but there was def no high rpms/reving while in gear. i have noticed though that when i shift into neutral from any gear that my rpms dont drop right away. it tends to be that its still getting fuel and the rpms drop slower than it used to. i.e. if im in 3rd gear and im driving it then i shift into neutral right from 3rd the rpms dont immediately drop to idol rpms. it prob takes 5 seconds or so to go from 3500-4000 rpms to 800rpms. it used to drop in a matter of about 2 seconds to 800 rpms...
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:37 PM   #27
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I did that clutch test where I put it in 5th gear at about 30mph and floored it. it wouldnt go past 1500 rpms and was kinda boggy. i mean it was picking up speed but there was def no high rpms/reving while in gear. i have noticed though that when i shift into neutral from any gear that my rpms dont drop right away. it tends to be that its still getting fuel and the rpms drop slower than it used to. i.e. if im in 3rd gear and im driving it then i shift into neutral right from 3rd the rpms dont immediately drop to idol rpms. it prob takes 5 seconds or so to go from 3500-4000 rpms to 800rpms. it used to drop in a matter of about 2 seconds to 800 rpms...
Get some throttle body cleaner. Mine did the same thing. Cleaning the throttle body helped a lot.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:05 PM   #28
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So bucking is the clutch? if i am accelerating as in normal driving with traffic it will start bucking. the bucking stops if i accelerate or let off the gas. i literally only need to touch the gas and it bucks alot. my wife wont even ride in it because it bounces her around lol...
4.10 gears ?

---------- Post added at 11:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 PM ----------

Clutch is fine.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #29
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I do have 4.10s, UDP, FRPP Cams, Steeda CAI, SCT Tune, FRPP Intake Manifold, Ported & Polished Throttle Body, Corsa Extreme Exhaust, prob missing something(s) in this list...
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:22 PM   #30
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I do have 4.10s, UDP, FRPP Cams, Steeda CAI, SCT Tune, FRPP Intake Manifold, Ported & Polished Throttle Body, Corsa Extreme Exhaust, prob missing something(s) in this list...
Cams can make it buck too. But the clutch being worn out could be the suspect if it happened outta nowhere.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:32 PM   #31
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I think a good tune up is what you need. If it just started, as mentioned already, I'd be looking at the alternator. The gas pedal is electrically controled.
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