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Old 05-20-2008, 02:36 PM   #36
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

eh, I have a Computer Consulting Business and a Marketing Business too. At least I worked for my money?
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Old 05-20-2008, 02:39 PM   #37
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

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eh, I have a Computer Consulting Business and a Marketing Business too. At least I worked for my money?
Hmm...consulting...what kind of consulting do you do? If you want to expand into LA, let me know....I do kind of the same here. :beer:
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Old 05-20-2008, 02:45 PM   #38
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

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eh, I have a Computer Consulting Business and a Marketing Business too. At least I worked for my money?
this is true. as long as you can afford to why not then. but in response, i'm a bigger fan of superchargers. i love the whine you get from them. i think overall, you get more power out of a turbo though and potentially better mileage if you can keep your foot off it during cruising times. first start out with the bottom end. you'll also need a new driveshaft i'm assuming. maybe look into the TR6060 6 speed tranny. i know on another mustang forum i'm on, one guy did the tranny swapy. i mean, if the corvette zr1 is gonna have a tr 6060 i'm pretty sure your HP numbers should be ok. then forge the internals to handle the power.

also consider new wheels and tires. i'm not sure the sze you have right now, but maybe some 275's to possibly 350s in the back to ensure the power is getting put to the ground.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:29 PM   #39
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

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eh, I have a Computer Consulting Business and a Marketing Business too. At least I worked for my money?
yep... i have a friend that does pretty much the same thing... it's pretty smooth that people our age can do that kinda stuff and be successful... at least your parents didnt pay for it!!! LOL...

btw here an investment you might want to check out!

http://www1.blackrock.com/Default.as...p?symbol=SSGRX
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:51 PM   #40
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

that ... really looks attractive to me.


- I consult hardware, web design, software programming, er ... servers, server space, hosting ... eh, name it and I probably do it. I am expanding actually, more over to the East Side of good ol' Arkansas. But hey, if business is good over there ... I may catch a plane down, check out the area and see what I can get rolling. It it's worth it, that is.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:00 PM   #41
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Yup, that's basically what I do...well, the programming side of it. Cajun does the hardware side of things, but no where near the extent that you are.

I have a couple projects in the pipeline through mikey poo right now that I hope don't fall through the cracks....they will be putting a new aluminum 318 shortblock in the car.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:14 PM   #42
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

look into a centri like a Procharger or Vortech. They build boost with RPM. its a great middle ground between a Turbo and Twin-Screw.

However, if you have the knowledge and know-how, Turbo all the way. Properly sized you should experience very little lag and get the most efficiency out of a setup. Though anything you do post what, like 450whp, will require a built motor, so dont forget to factor that into the whole equation.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:17 PM   #43
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Or, have the built motor ready to go in and see how long the stocker lasts. The white car here in town, and now his cousin's black 06 GT, both have the stock short blocks putting down 500's to the wheels and run 15 psi through saleen blowers.

In reality, their **** should have blown long ago...but for some reason, they just keep on cranking along. The white one should have really blown up a long time ago the way they drove it...but it never did.
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:48 PM   #44
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

thanks guys, i'm going to start on my suspension and build my way up. my goal is 600 or so ... so new engine, I know. But I like the advice to start on my suspension first. get the booger stuck to the ground.

By the way Venom, if you know anyone that makes web sites, I constantly am in need of outsourcing some work... whats the very first part i should start with? does it matter?
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:51 PM   #45
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

You don't even need a lift to check the LCA's. Look at the picture of my rear end with the wheel off. The front blue part is my Steeda LCA. If you have a big dull black one then it is the standard Ford LCA and needs to be replaced.
I forget where but I saw a BMR panhard relocation kit for $440 shipped (This includes a new rear axle housing with the pre-load bolts, adjustable panhard bar and panhard relocation bracket). An upper control arm could cost $150 -$225. Also, you could get them as adjustable or solid.

I currently have solid LCA's and Saleen suspension with 400rwhp and have no issues with launching. I will upgrade my chassis/suspension with those mods, UCA and relocators if (when) I decide to up my power again.

Quote:
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..I'm already almost done! w00! so, I need put the car on a lift and look at the LCA ... what am I looking at for the rear axle and housing cover with the relocation bracket with UCA? 2,000ish? I could be unlazy and look for myself... these are all I would really need before I can move on to the next step?
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:59 PM   #46
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Quote:
Originally Posted by braumab View Post
thanks guys, i'm going to start on my suspension and build my way up. my goal is 600 or so ... so new engine, I know. But I like the advice to start on my suspension first. get the booger stuck to the ground.

By the way Venom, if you know anyone that makes web sites, I constantly am in need of outsourcing some work... whats the very first part i should start with? does it matter?
I do happen to know one person...he's a total *******, but...I do know someone.

You'll have a PM momentarily.
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:34 PM   #47
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

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Originally Posted by PureVenom View Post
Or, have the built motor ready to go in and see how long the stocker lasts. The white car here in town, and now his cousin's black 06 GT, both have the stock short blocks putting down 500's to the wheels and run 15 psi through saleen blowers.

In reality, their **** should have blown long ago...but for some reason, they just keep on cranking along. The white one should have really blown up a long time ago the way they drove it...but it never did.
probably great tuners and they probably dont beat on their cars, and only go WOT when theres a need to. the motors probably wouldnt survive a long 4th/5th gear high speed jaunt, nor a few laps around Road America (then again, look at the 03/04, it needs additional cooling mods to survive those same conditions), but they probably dont flinch at a simple 1st/2ndblast or the occasional 3rd gear pull from deep down in the 2k range up to redline.

if you can keep knock/predetonation at bay, and your a/f mixture at a relatively rich area throughout (as to keep cylinder temps down, ie no melting pistons from running lean), the last piece of the puzzle that would harm a motor is the stresses of boost itself and compression; 15psi isnt a whole lot really.
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Old 05-21-2008, 09:38 AM   #48
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Well, the tune was right on, but the drivers were far from steller. They broke 6 saleen tensioner arms due to hitting the rev limiter all the time. They destroyed a spec twin disc clutch in their dads Ford GT...I mean it was in many pieces. They are horrible to that car....but the tune was on, so it didn't go pop.

Now, it is back to N/A because their dad got sick of buying tensioners every month or so.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:08 AM   #49
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RedDevil View Post
You don't even need a lift to check the LCA's. Look at the picture of my rear end with the wheel off. The front blue part is my Steeda LCA. If you have a big dull black one then it is the standard Ford LCA and needs to be replaced.
I forget where but I saw a BMR panhard relocation kit for $440 shipped (This includes a new rear axle housing with the pre-load bolts, adjustable panhard bar and panhard relocation bracket). An upper control arm could cost $150 -$225. Also, you could get them as adjustable or solid.

I currently have solid LCA's and Saleen suspension with 400rwhp and have no issues with launching. I will upgrade my chassis/suspension with those mods, UCA and relocators if (when) I decide to up my power again.

I'll start there. :] Thanks guys, soo ...


Anyone wanna make a list of the order they would install the parts so I can ... copy? 2:
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:28 AM   #50
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Which work are you going to do yourself vs what are you having done? This is a big cost factor which changes plans a bit. . .
If you have a complete toolset and are mechanically inclined I would say do all suspension yourself, the super or turbo you can do yourself (if you have a good flash tune and then take it somewhere for a custom dyno tune). Upgrading the fuel system and cooling system can also be done fairly easily by the home mechanic. The only thing I would really think of off the top of my head that can't be done without extensive shop supplies is rebuilding the engine.
NOTE: I am an engineer so work based on your own ability.
Building the engine can be done through three routes as far as I am concerned but we will get to that after you buy and install your suspension.
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Old 05-21-2008, 11:01 AM   #51
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

you tha man!! :flash:
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Old 05-21-2008, 11:03 AM   #52
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Lol. Thanks. I wish. So are you doing any installs yourself?
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Old 05-21-2008, 11:22 AM   #53
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

I can, I'll probably get my ladies dad to help me out. He's a Chevy man ... but I forgave him. I'll try to get the LCA and the Axle done in a couple of weeks.
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:37 PM   #54
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Taken from another website....


2005 - 2007 Mustang GT Suspension Mods

Sway Bars:

The front is quite good stock. There are many, many, things that I would replace before the front sway bar. In fact, I'd put the front sway bar at the very bottom of the "suspension mod list". The rear, however, is an excellent thing to upgrade. A stiffer rear bar will help keep both tires planted when you hit the gas on the strip or coming out of a corner. It will also balance out the steering bias (understeer) the car has from the factory. I like the Steeda and the BMR ones the best, but there are many choices here: Steeda, BMR, Ford, Roush, Eibach, etc. I left my front stock and got a Steeda rear--I normally don't like Steeda's billet aluminum parts, but their rear sway bar with the billet mounting bars is a great product. The billet bars are much stronger than the flimsy OEM ones. Another option would be to find a Shelby rear sway bar, as Ford increased the size of the rear bar on the GT500. Several companies sell a kit that has both front and rear sway bars. Personally I do not like these. I would stick with the rear ONLY.

Strut tower bars:

The theory of this product is that it ties together the front strut towers, reducing body flex. The S197 chassis is very stiff--especially at the front strut towers. Consequently this isn't really needed. In my opinion, this is a mainly costmetic mod. There are tons of choices out there as this is a popular "me too" product that was popularized with ricers--because of this there's a flood of them on the market. The BMR is the strongest. If you seriously want one that's functional, that's what I'd get. The Steeda one with the billet ends is a joke and has an insane price tag. No thanks! Note that some strut tower bars can interfere with superchargers or plenum covers, so be careful of that if you are planning on getting both, or if you have an '07 that came with a plenum cover.

Shocks:

If you want good shocks there are many options: FRPP and Saleen are a good match with lowering springs. But, the hot ticket is the Toicko D-specs. These are fully adjustable, so you can set up your car for street, road race, drag, or whatever you feel like. You can adjust them very quickly (less than 5 min for all 4 shocks), which gives you a lot of options. If you have to take a long trip with the family you can soften 'em up and make the car ride like a cadillac. Stiffen up all four when you drive in the twisties. You can leave the rear stiff and soften the front for better transfer on launch when you hit the drag strip....these are just some examples, but suffice it to say the D-specs are very very nice. Check with Brenspeed for the best price that I know of. Last time I checked they were $540 for all four, with free shipping!

Springs:

Many choices here. Springs are mainly a cosmetic thing, but a mild drop will lower the center of gravity of the car and that can help cornering. All of the major brands are good (Eibach, Ford, Steeda, Roush, BMR). I'd make a choice depending on how much lowering you want. The most popular for mild drops are the Roush and the Steela "ultralite" springs. The Eibach Pro-Kit is really popular too. Roush will sell you sets of just fronts or just rears. Some guys, myself included, lowered just the rear of the car. I think that's nice if you want a very mild drop and you want to be careful about ground clearance. Beware the Eibach "sportline" kit. This is a VERY low drop that is impractical on a street-driven car, and is sure to cause headaches with alignment, bump-steer, etc.

Coil Overs:

If you want, you can replace the stock shocks and springs with a coil over setup. Coil-overs combine springs and shocks into a single package. They are usually adjustable for both ride height and for damping (like the D-specs). These are very expensive, but have the advantage of letting you adjust the ride height exactly where you want it. I wouldn't buy these unless you are a very serious road-course racer and need to get everything absoloutley perfect. They are a pain to adjust, and then once you have the height set where you want it, then you have to go and reset the camber, pinion angle, and all that. You can't practically adjust your ride height to suit your whims, there is just too much work involved.

Lower Control arms (LCA):

This is a key weak point from the factory. I consider this a MANDATORY mod for all S197 Mustang GTs. If you're tired of wheelhop, wasted HP and loss of traction then this is the first mod you need to do. I like the tubular welded steel ones, such as those from Spohn, BMR, CHE, etc. There are different types available (adjustable vs. non-adjustable). Get the adjustable ones if you have lowered your car (or if you have a 1-pc driveshaft) so that you can correct your pinion angle. Get the solid ones if you aren't lowering the car and are not going to get a 1-pc driveshaft. Steeda makes some billet aluminum ones which look nice but are $$$ expensive and are known to break on high HP cars. I'd avoid those and get the tubular steel type. The tubular steel ones are lighter, stronger, and cheaper. I don't like the CHE ones becasue they don't have grease fittings in them. That's bad for maintenance. My favorites are the BMR "combo street" type with a poly bushing on one end and a spherical bearing on the other. Spohn has a set that is virtually identical, either would be a fantastic choice.

Upper Control arms (UCA):

Another factory weak spot. The upper control arm is located above the rear differential housing. The stock one is stamped steel and is quite flimsy for the amount of load it has to bear. You can get aftermarket UCAs in either the solid type or the adjustable type, just like LCAs. You only need adjustability on one set (either upper OR lower). Personally I suggest a SOLID UCA and then adjustable LCAs. (this is stronger and easier to adjust). I think the BMR solid UCA is the best on the market, no contest. While many companies have decent LCAs, BMR is the undisputed king of the UCA. It's boxed design and thick steel construction is completely bulletproof. I suggest the one with the spherical bearing. Also, buy a polyurethane bushing that fits in the diff housing to go with it. The bushing is dirt cheap, and it's a pain to install. But it's worth it. This combined with good LCAs will have your rear end hooking up like nobody's business. If you are running serious HP and low drag times, get the matching UCA mount to go with this. The poly bushing for the rear end housing is available from Spohn or BMR.

UCA Mount:

This is a metal bracket that bolts to the unibody. It's job is to hold the forward end of the UCA. Basically, this part spreads the load from the UCA onto the thinner sheet metal of the unibody. Like the UCA, the stock one stamped from some pretty flimsy steel. If you are going to be under your car messing with the UCA, you might as well replace this as well. I suggest the BMR or the CHE. Both are very good quality. This part is more of an "insurance" part. You upgrade this to strengthen the frame/body of the car and to reduce unwanted flex. It's not worthwhile on a grocery getter, but if you drag race or if you have a power adder (nitrous, blower, or turbo) then I'd consider this some cheap insurance.


Panhard Bar & Brace:

Another factory weak spot. The Panhard bar itself is available from many dealers. I have a Spohn, you can also get them from BMR, Steeda, CHE, and Edelbrock. The panhard bar brace is available from BMR, Steeda, and CHE. These will help firm up the rear end for either drag or road racing--they are much stronger than the flimsy factory parts. The adjustable panhard bar lets you re-center your rear end if you alter your ride height. These are high on my list of basic suspension mods. I like the Spohn panhard bar becasue they make one with a "combo" design--poly on one end, and heim on the other end, but all the brands I mentioned are good. While most of the panhards are comporable, BMR makes the best brace. Theirs is a lot sturdier than the Steeda, and it has a little hump in it which leaves more room for your exhaust. The BMR has a unique position of having the most clearance AND being extremely stiff.


LCA relocation brackets (also called anti-squat brackets):

...used to adjust your lower control arm angle, and therefore the instant center of your car. These are useful for getting more traction off the line, especially if you have lowered your car or switched to larger diameter rear tires. BMR and CHE both make these, but the BMRs are nicer becasue they have three possible mounting positions, whereas the CHEs only have two. Have them welded in for maximum strength. These are a fantastic mod if you drag race. On a grocery getter, they're not worthwhile unless you've lowered the car.


Subframe Brace (AKA subframe connector):

These are metal pieces that are welded to the underside of the car. They join together the front and rear subframes of the body, tying them into the floor of the car. This makes the chassis stiffer as a whole. There are three that I know of. The best is the BMR heavy duty, followed by the Steeda "triangulated" followed by the BMR "normal version". These are only truly needed on very high-HP cars, but they do stiffen the chassis as a whole, and I think they make a good foundation for a future buildup or if you simply want to maximize the handling of your car. These are a good choice if you're serious about frame stiffness or if you are pushing big HP.

K-member Brace (AKA "G-trac Brace" by Steeda, AKA "A-arm brace" by others)

Different companies call this different things, but they all do the same job: This is a small bar that joins together the ends of the K-member (the rearmost pivot of the front A-arms). It's job is to prevent flexing of the K-member. This is an inexpensive part and it does noticeably firm up the handling of the car. I like it simply becasue of it's low price, ease of installation, and benefits. All the big guys make this: BMR, Steeda, CHE, etc. This is one of the FEW parts that I think BMR has the inferior version of. Steeda's "T-style" ends are stiffer than BMR's bent brackets. I bought the Steeda. CHE makes one with built-in torque limiters. These are little rods that go up to the transmission and help to prevent it from twisting. If you have a problem with difficult shifts under power, then the CHE one is an ideal choice.


K-member

This is a large metal piece that bolts under the front end of the unibody. It holds the motor mounts as well as mounting points for much of the front suspension. Aftermarket ones are available from various companies, but BMR is the most common. The purpose of changing this out is weight savings. The aftermarket models typically incorporate poly motor mounts and are made of welded tubing. This part has little effect on handling but it does save weight off the front end which is good for weight transfer during drag racing.

Front Radiator support / Swaybar delete.

This part is used in conjuntion with removing the front sway bar from the car. With the sway bar removed, the heavy OEM brace is no longer needed. This lightweight part only holds the radiator, and has no provision (or strength) for supporting the sway bar. This is actually a handling DOWNGRADE but is used to save front-end weight for drag racing applications. I recommend this only if you are a serious drag race competitor and you don't road race at all.

Front A-Arms

This is a relatively new product. I know of only one brand, which is BMR. These A-arms are lighter than stock. Again, this is good for weight distribution optimization for drag racing. Furthermore, they have stiffer polyurethane bushings than the OEM rubber bushings and "hydra mounts". This is good for better handling in the turns. I have not personally run these yet, but they appear to be an excellent mod (on paper anyway). Anytime you can remove rubber and add polyurethane instead will tighten up handling and improve road feel. These are a good all-around handling upgrade and weight savings mod. BMR also makes a "race" type that has heim joints instead of poly bushings. This will transmit a lot of road noise so it is not appropriate for a street car. However, these A-arms allow you to make several suspension adjustments that normally cannot be made, thanks to the adjustability of the joints. This would be an excellent mod for serious road-course competitors.



In a nutshell:

The first suspension mods you should consider are LCAs, Rear sway bar, Panhard Bar, and the Panhard Bar brace. These are great mods for any style of driving (street, drag, or road race/autocross).

If you want to lower your car and/or improve cornering, look at lowering springs and shocks. Note that when you lower your car you'll need the aforementioned stuff anyway. I recommend the Toicko D-spec shocks.

If you get more agressive with your handling desires and HP levels, then start with the UCA & mount, LCA relocation brackets, etc...
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:20 PM   #55
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Tisk tisk, RedRoushOne, I was hoping for something a little more thorough.
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:26 PM   #56
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

...lol 2:
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Old 05-21-2008, 09:13 PM   #57
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Don't blame me...I just copied it....

But it sounds like the guy knew what he was talking about...
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:30 PM   #58
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

:woo::leghump1::threesome:pop::cloud:
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:32 AM   #59
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Hope you've got a nice daily driver for the downtime this car will have
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:50 AM   #60
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

heh .. taxi? bah, those don't exist here.I'll get the boat...
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:35 PM   #61
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

just take a saturday and do it... the worst part is the alignment in the front... depending on what you end up doing... control arms and sway bars should just be bolt ons... hell i changed my front and rear springs in around 4 hours (by myself)... there really isnt much more to it then that... if mean you gotta take one side of the shocks off to get to the springs... all thats left is the way bars and control arms... no biggie...
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:45 PM   #62
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

The downtime is referring to building the engine internals, not suspension.
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:49 AM   #63
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

pwned.
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:56 AM   #64
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

that may take slightly longer
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:51 AM   #65
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

I've decided to do an engine swap. I'm going to buy the engine, rebuild it, do all the bells and whistles, then i'll swap it out. take about, 30 minutes. ima genious
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Old 05-24-2008, 07:03 PM   #66
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

Yeah, you could buy a built motor from Ford Racing or something, use your stock block or buy a block from one in a junk yard. Then change out the internals with either aftermarket internals or ported/ polished and cryogenically treated stock parts. Up to you.
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:55 PM   #67
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

how bout I just fly you down here and you can ride around with me and pick out what i need. Then install it too. :cloud:
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Old 05-25-2008, 03:15 PM   #68
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

I can't say that is reasonable; however, I also can't say that is unreasonable. LOL. Road trip would definitely be better. :pancake:
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Old 05-25-2008, 09:38 PM   #69
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Re: I don't know what I want :[

lol, come on man!! what's a good engine I should swap with? Ideas...?
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