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Old 01-23-2013, 03:29 AM   #1
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Debate?

Here I am.
Debating if I should sell or mod my car.

It's torch red 2007 mustang GT.

I have my eyes on the 5.0 or c63 AMG.

I'm pretty sure I can put down 10K after sale.

New
Pros- faster car & newer and that sweet 100K warranty
Cons- gotta pay for it another 1-3 years monthly.

Current
Pros- paid off. Everything new on motor. Pulls like new.
Cons- going cost me maybe up to $20K to mod it the way I want it. (Why so high?) high miles on motor. I'd rather put newer 5.0 in. Then mod it.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:11 AM   #2
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Get the new 5.0 because if you plan on spending money on modding, it will take a lot just to get it to equal the hp the 5.0 s have plus the 5.0 look cooler!
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:48 AM   #3
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Well considering a full bolt on and supercharger 4.6 around the same horsepower as a stock 5.0. Also I have been told you have to build the motor over 400whp and I have 400whp with basic bolt in I say go for the 5.0
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:19 AM   #4
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If it was me i would just get the 5.0
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:24 AM   #5
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That's a hard one I like the 5.0 an the Mercedes
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:54 AM   #6
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I would just get the 5.0.If you can afford it why not keep it and also
get the 5.0.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Justafastdriver View Post
Here I am.
Debating if I should sell or mod my car.

It's torch red 2007 mustang GT.

I have my eyes on the 5.0 or c63 AMG.

I'm pretty sure I can put down 10K after sale.

New
Pros- faster car & newer and that sweet 100K warranty
Cons- gotta pay for it another 1-3 years monthly.

Current
Pros- paid off. Everything new on motor. Pulls like new.
Cons- going cost me maybe up to $20K to mod it the way I want it. (Why so high?) high miles on motor. I'd rather put newer 5.0 in. Then mod it.
Go for the 5.0. All of the new technology and aftermarket parts are going to start gearing towards the 5.0. The 4.6 3V aftermarket won't go away, but it's an old engine platform now for mustangs. Unless you have a real preference for the 2007 body style, the 5.0 starts off over 100hp to the better and can only go up with mods. You should be able to get close to 500hp with bolt ons.
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:51 PM   #8
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Well considering a full bolt on and supercharger 4.6 around the same horsepower as a stock 5.0. Also I have been told you have to build the motor over 400whp and I have 400whp with basic bolt in I say go for the 5.0
Your usually good for 450 to the wheels on the stock block. Anything over that isn't very safe. And what mods do you have that put you at 400 to the wheels?
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:58 PM   #9
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Intake, tune, o/r xpipe, pypes super system and 3.73's. ill admit I've never dynod it but people with the same mods get right at or close to 400whp
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:11 PM   #10
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Yeah.
Hard choice between c63 & 5.0 haha.

I do like the 2013 5.0 beileve me I have drove 6 of them. Test drive.
Just sexy car, motor.
I made one small curve, you just could feel the motor growling and Spin the tires hard. Went 0-90 faster than I expected

Was thinking of putting 5.0 in 2007 because I like the sleeper idea.
But I'm debating if its worth the money, y'all know?
$10k in motor swap. The other about $5k would be in bolts on. Then the rest would be put in for turbos.
But not sure because I haven't found a thread or a forum of someone else that already did that idea, because I would like to know the real cost of swapping coyote 5.0 in 05-09 model
Also I feel 4.6l would be limited to modding. Because it'd probably end up costing over $10k too to prep it for 500+HP. Wheresabout 5.0 already has 450Hp. Simple bolts on would get 550hp. And it'd handle it no problem. Then lil bit more mods would get it closer to 600hp.
4.6l is way behind. Stock is I think 300hp.. A lot of bolts on, etc to just get closer to 600hp


I would defi keep and buy 5.0.
But can't. My insurance would go over $800 a month. (Yeah bad.)
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:02 PM   #11
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Intake, tune, o/r xpipe, pypes super system and 3.73's. ill admit I've never dynod it but people with the same mods get right at or close to 400whp
Ohh I was thinking you had a 3v. I was thinking no way with those mods you have 400 to the wheel but with a 5.0 I can see that
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:41 AM   #12
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Well considering a full bolt on and supercharger 4.6 around the same horsepower as a stock 5.0. Also I have been told you have to build the motor over 400whp and I have 400whp with basic bolt in I say go for the 5.0
A supercharged 4.6 is NOT the same as a stock 5.0. Where do you even get this ludicrous idea from?

One of the cheapest SC out there pushes near 435-450 wheel safely on stock engine with no other mods.

My car at 340 WHP and 320 lb/ft with 4.10s is right up there with a stock 5.0.

If his car is paid off, it would be crazy to start over but hey, cars are like crack haha.

OP, what mods are you looking at that tally 20k?
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:31 AM   #13
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A supercharged 4.6 is NOT the same as a stock 5.0. Where do you even get this ludicrous idea from?

One of the cheapest SC out there pushes near 435-450 wheel safely on stock engine with no other mods.

My car at 340 WHP and 320 lb/ft with 4.10s is right up there with a stock 5.0.

If his car is paid off, it would be crazy to start over but hey, cars are like crack haha.

OP, what mods are you looking at that tally 20k?
Considering I can had headers and a boss intake and have around 450whp I can see your argument.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:45 AM   #14
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I say c63 amg. Those cars are absolutely gorgeous and are beats!!

---------- Post added at 07:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 AM ----------

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I say c63 amg. Those cars are absolutely gorgeous and are beats!! But, with only $10k down those payments would be outrageous. So the 5.0 would probably be a better choice.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:15 AM   #15
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A supercharged 4.6 is NOT the same as a stock 5.0. Where do you even get this ludicrous idea from?

One of the cheapest SC out there pushes near 435-450 wheel safely on stock engine with no other mods.

My car at 340 WHP and 320 lb/ft with 4.10s is right up there with a stock 5.0.

If his car is paid off, it would be crazy to start over but hey, cars are like crack haha.

OP, what mods are you looking at that tally 20k?
340 isn't even close to a stock 5.0 11-12 are pulling 360-390 stock. 2013 are pulling 390 stock. Don't get me wrong you have the correct # for your mods and that's great but it's not near a stock 5.0

OP.....JMO but I would go for the 5.0,I was right where you were at 2 yrs ago and got the 5.0. I had full bolt on and thought about FI but knew I would be limited at 450whp and if I popped the motor I would have to dump more money in her. I got the 5.0,slapped on some go fast goodies and I'm happy as can be.......for now.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:41 AM   #16
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340 isn't even close to a stock 5.0 11-12 are pulling 360-390 stock. 2013 are pulling 390 stock. Don't get me wrong you have the correct # for your mods and that's great but it's not near a stock 5.0

OP.....JMO but I would go for the 5.0,I was right where you were at 2 yrs ago and got the 5.0. I had full bolt on and thought about FI but knew I would be limited at 450whp and if I popped the motor I would have to dump more money in her. I got the 5.0,slapped on some go fast goodies and I'm happy as can be.......for now.
That is NOT what was implying. I am running 12.6s. That is stock 5.0 territory. My point, if it wasn't obvious, was that his statement of numbers and its inability to compete with a stock 5.0 is wrong.

Addi tonally, with a stock gear, 360 WHP would have been easily attainable. 4.10s have been dyno proven to add significant drive train loss.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:56 AM   #17
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You don't have stock gears,so why would that come into question? You have 340 with your 4.10 not..."If I had stock I would have 360".
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:05 PM   #18
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You don't have stock gears,so why would that come into question? You have 340 with your 4.10 not..."If I had stock I would have 360".
You brought HP into the equation. You misunderstood my comments, are you infallible and can not do so? I brought that into it just how you brought into it the stock WHP of an average 4V. Double standard?

My original comments was to the OP that you ABSOLUTELY do not need a SC, bolt on S197 to match a stock 5.0. That is fact. A stock 3V with a s/c will outdo a STOCK 4V in the power department and real words translations into ET.

The 5.0 is the better base to start with, no doubt, but you can save money and get just as fast if not faster for the same money with a 3V seeing as parts for a 4V are more money than their 3V counterparts for now.

To those saying the upgrade to 4V is cheaper, think about it this way. Total value versus accumulated value makes a huge difference for some people. Such as, it is cheaper to get a 4V in say it was 28k than a 3V that was 16k, as the total of the 4V is cheaper than 3V plus parts to become it's equal. BUT, people can mod over time, while the payment/price of the 4V is an immediate expense month to month.

In the end, they are both viable options for the same result depending on his intentions and budget.

There are 8 second 3Vs just as there are 8 second 4Vs and 8 second Honda Civics.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:23 PM   #19
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You brought HP into the equation. You misunderstood my comments, are you infallible and can not do so? I brought that into it just how you brought into it the stock WHP of an average 4V. Double standard?

My original comments was to the OP that you ABSOLUTELY do not need a SC, bolt on S197 to match a stock 5.0. That is fact. A stock 3V with a s/c will outdo a STOCK 4V in the power department and real words translations into ET.

The 5.0 is the better base to start with, no doubt, but you can save money and get just as fast if not faster for the same money with a 3V seeing as parts for a 4V are more money than their 3V counterparts for now.

To those saying the upgrade to 4V is cheaper, think about it this way. Total value versus accumulated value makes a huge difference for some people. Such as, it is cheaper to get a 4V in say it was 28k than a 3V that was 16k, as the total of the 4V is cheaper than 3V plus parts to become it's equal. BUT, people can mod over time, while the payment/price of the 4V is an immediate expense month to month.

In the end, they are both viable options for the same result depending on his intentions and budget.

There are 8 second 3Vs just as there are 8 second 4Vs and 8 second Honda Civics.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:34 PM   #20
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I also want to establish that I do not seek or enjoy arguments. I do enjoy heated debates since they push the parties involved to divulge more or seek sources etc. This results in good information for everyone. We are all here for a common goal. Learn and love the Mustang.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:00 PM   #21
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I understand what you are saying but he is going to be limited with FI on a 3V and if he pushes that it's done which means dropping more money into it. He can have the same amount of power with a bolt on 4V (it's a better platform to start with) as a FI 3V. It's all a matter of opinion on the money issue. Some people can afford to mod and pay a note and some can't.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #22
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I understand what you are saying but he is going to be limited with FI on a 3V and if he pushes that it's done which means dropping more money into it. He can have the same amount of power with a bolt on 4V (it's a better platform to start with) as a FI 3V. It's all a matter of opinion on the money issue. Some people can afford to mod and pay a note and some can't.
Money being the main key here. There is a 10 second twin turbo VQ35 88 Caravan lol.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:16 PM   #23
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Don't forget about "The farm truck" 10.6

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Old 01-24-2013, 02:20 PM   #24
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Don't forget about "The farm truck"
Speaking of which, I was raped by a 50's rust bucket running high 12s at like 101 with a 1.6 60's precams. I actually think it is in my video on my drag thread.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:22 PM   #25
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Edited my previous post with the video. ^^^^
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:59 PM   #26
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Edited my previous post with the video. ^^^^
Trying to see if a few mods will do me any justice. Or should I just go FI

Are you familiar with the SteedaQ350 and the mods it has?
I want to add the
Ford Racing intake manifold
Gt500 tb
Comp cams
Possibly LT headers
And fuel delivery upgrades if needed

I already have
Steeda UD pulleys
Cai & tune
Charge motion delete plates
Steeda cam(very mild)
4.10s
High flow cats

Tuned and tested at 12.7

Will the few add ons mentioned above, give me any gains?
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:37 PM   #27
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Trying to see if a few mods will do me any justice. Or should I just go FI

Are you familiar with the SteedaQ350 and the mods it has?
I want to add the
Ford Racing intake manifold
Gt500 tb
Comp cams
Possibly LT headers
And fuel delivery upgrades if needed

I already have
Steeda UD pulleys
Cai & tune
Charge motion delete plates
Steeda cam(very mild)
4.10s
High flow cats

Tuned and tested at 12.7

Will the few add ons mentioned above, give me any gains?
You have a little more time left in it as is. Also, the Motion plates are eliminated by the Ford Manifold, so you cam remove them. What are the advertised gains with Steeda cams?
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:41 PM   #28
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You have a little more time left in it as is. Also, the Motion plates are eliminated by the Ford Manifold, so you cam remove them. What are the advertised gains with Steeda cams?
I'm not sure. I have my build sheet in my profile pics. They aren't listed on there. But was told its a Steeda 17 cam. Which neither I nor my cousin can find info on. Seems they are discontinued.

Want a heavier lope. Which is why I wanna go with a diff cam.

If I do the ford racing intake with gt500 tb, would that give me more gains than the mild cam and stock intake/tb?
I don't wanna just switch part for part and end up with the same performance. I know Steeda built this car to perform, so I don't wanna take away from what they did
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