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Old 03-10-2013, 05:05 PM   #1
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Running lean

I just installed bbk shorty headers, bbk catted x pipe, borla atak catback exhaust, jlt series 3 cold air & sct sf3 tuner with custom tune from bama..
Now my check engine light is on & code says I'm running lean??
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:37 PM   #2
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I just installed bbk shorty headers, bbk catted x pipe, borla atak catback exhaust, jlt series 3 cold air & sct sf3 tuner with custom tune from bama..
Now my check engine light is on & code says I'm running lean??
Data log the car with your tuner then send it too Bama or tell them to re write it
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:30 AM   #3
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Ok so the simple questions , did all of the O2 sensors get installed back correctly? What about the CAI ? Check the bottom side of the throttle body to make sure the inlet tube is positioned over the lip of the TB. These are two very common things. Next to that you make need your rear O2 sensors turned off with that set of cats. Check with AM
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djw05gt View Post
I just installed bbk shorty headers, bbk catted x pipe, borla atak catback exhaust, jlt series 3 cold air & sct sf3 tuner with custom tune from bama..
Now my check engine light is on & code says I'm running lean??
Djw05gt,

Sorry to hear you're having issues with the new setup! Lets see if we can trouble shoot this lean code, and make sure it's nothing mechanical.

Have you gotten a chance to over look the exhaust thoroughly and make sure there aren't any leaks? A small exhaust leak between the header flange and down pipe will easily cause a lean code. Also, make sure you re-torque all of the header bolts after a few heat cycles. This is required for any header installation with new gaskets. An exhaust leak could very well be coming through header primary tunes flange, if the bolts haven't been re-torqued.

Also, I'm assuming all 4 of the O2 sensors are plugged in? There should be one before and after each catalytic converter.

Let me know if you've checked these things and if not, give it a try and get back to me after another test drive. Then we'll go from there, depending on what your results are!

Shane
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:43 AM   #5
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dont drive the car hard at all until you get it figured out as well
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:55 PM   #6
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Thanks everyone for the advice.. I started with the easiest & checked the cold air & it made the most sense to me because when I installed cold air directions said no more the finger tight on hose clamps & you just can't get a hose clamp very tight with your fingers.. So I tightened with screw driver & engine light has been off for 60 miles
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:47 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone for the advice.. I started with the easiest & checked the cold air & it made the most sense to me because when I installed cold air directions said no more the finger tight on hose clamps & you just can't get a hose clamp very tight with your fingers.. So I tightened with screw driver & engine light has been off for 60 miles
Djw05gt,

It definitely sounds like you found the leak. The intake couplers need to be snugged up pretty tight to avoid any air leaks.

At least this was a quick and easy fix. Everything should be smooth sailing from here!

Shane
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:47 PM   #8
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Ok the check engine light was off for a bit, but now it is back & it's coming up as a bad cam position sensor.. So I'm liking for more advise? Wasn't really expecting to upgrade my car & the check engine like on every other time I take it out
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:53 PM   #9
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Ok the check engine light was off for a bit, but now it is back & it's coming up as a bad cam position sensor.. So I'm liking for more advise? Wasn't really expecting to upgrade my car & the check engine like on every other time I take it out
Switch the sensors right for left, clear codes and check again.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:59 PM   #10
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Switch the sensors right for left, clear codes and check again.
Is this a pretty simple task& are these sensor located just under valve covers each side

---------- Post added at 08:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:55 PM ----------

Ok is this an easy task? & are these located just under the valve covers each side of motor?
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:17 PM   #11
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Is this a pretty simple task& are these sensor located just under valve covers each side

---------- Post added at 08:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:55 PM ----------

Ok is this an easy task? & are these located just under the valve covers each side of motor?
Yeah, on the front face of the engine below valve covers. One screw each, I think 10 mm. If the problem moves, then replace sensor. Is your oil level correct? Variable cam timing uses oil pressure to change the timing.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:14 PM   #12
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Ok switched the sensors, reset the check engine light , checked the oil& still came up with the same code.. Is there anything else I mite be able to trouble shoot..

Ps. I have very little mechanical knowledge
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:13 PM   #13
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Ok switched the sensors, reset the check engine light , checked the oil& still came up with the same code.. Is there anything else I mite be able to trouble shoot..

Ps. I have very little mechanical knowledge
Which code exactly? It didn't change from left to right or vice versa?
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:52 PM   #14
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Code is p0340 (circuit bank 1 or single sensor )
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:44 AM   #15
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Have your alternator tested. That is a common code that gets thrown when your alternator is about to go. Alternators are a known issue on these cars as well.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:29 AM   #16
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Have your alternator tested. That is a common code that gets thrown when your alternator is about to go. Alternators are a known issue on these cars as well.
+1

These alternators don't last too long on these cars. Had to replace mine at about 55k
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