Exhaust for my 08 GT - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-07-2013, 12:34 PM   #1
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Exhaust for my 08 GT

I'm really not too good with exhaust part of the car, especially since there's so many different types it gets kind of confusing. I'm looking for an exhaust system that will give me a large amount of power and make my 08 GT sound like a classic beast. I'm also thinking of 4 exhaust pipes like the new SVT. I don't mind if it's an illegal piece either as long as you can tell me where I might be able to find it, And if you have pics please post them.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #2
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I've got everything you need bud. Go with some kooks long tube headers for biggest power gains, pypes offroad h pipe for more freed up exhaust, louder exhaust and a deeper rumble rather than an x pipe which is raspy and finally, a set of borla S type axle backs. The borlas serve an increase in power, they are approx 15 lbs lighter than stock and give a nasty deep old school muscle car rumble.

All in all, the exhaust will net you very good power gains, good flowing exhaust, noticeable power on the throttle and will be loud and deep! ( about a 9-91/2 out of 10 on sound decible).

Then, for your quad tips, borla offers 2 sets of quad tips for their axle backs, square tips or oval tips. All are chrome and semi slant cut.

Now, price. Expect the kooks to run you $900+ , pypes offroad will run you about $200 and borla stingers will run you $500 on summit racing before taxes. So total, you are looking at about $1, 600. But it will sound amazing and open up the same. I'm running everything now but the kooks headers because they will be replaced with turbo headers in a couple months. Hope this helps ya.
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:54 PM   #3
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I've got everything you need bud. Go with some kooks long tube headers for biggest power gains, pypes offroad h pipe for more freed up exhaust, louder exhaust and a deeper rumble rather than an x pipe which is raspy and finally, a set of borla S type axle backs. The borlas serve an increase in power, they are approx 15 lbs lighter than stock and give a nasty deep old school muscle car rumble.

All in all, the exhaust will net you very good power gains, good flowing exhaust, noticeable power on the throttle and will be loud and deep! ( about a 9-91/2 out of 10 on sound decible).

Then, for your quad tips, borla offers 2 sets of quad tips for their axle backs, square tips or oval tips. All are chrome and semi slant cut.

Now, price. Expect the kooks to run you $900+ , pypes offroad will run you about $200 and borla stingers will run you $500 on summit racing before taxes. So total, you are looking at about $1, 600. But it will sound amazing and open up the same. I'm running everything now but the kooks headers because they will be replaced with turbo headers in a couple months. Hope this helps ya.
Damn, thanks bro. Did you test this out yourself?

Also I wanted to fix it up under the hood, and make it look nice, the only good looking part is my intake. Do you know any good sites that sells dress up pieces for under the hood?
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:56 PM   #4
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No problem bud. And I have tested everyrhing but the kooks headers but have heard them in person.

Ummm, do you plan on going FI?
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #5
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No problem bud. And I have tested everyrhing but the kooks headers but have heard them in person.

Ummm, do you plan on going FI?
What's FI?
I'm gonna search out the exhaust parts, hopefully get it on my ride sometime by summer,
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:00 PM   #6
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Fi stands for forced induction. This means supercharging (ie. Vortech, novi, kenne bell, whipple, procharger, edelbrock, magnacharger or others) or turbo (sts, on3, hellion, turbonetics or powerhouse).
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:03 PM   #7
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Fi stands for forced induction. This means supercharging (ie. Vortech, novi, kenne bell, whipple, procharger, edelbrock, magnacharger or others) or turbo (sts, on3, hellion, turbonetics or powerhouse).
Yea. I just haven't decided if I should supercharge it or turbo charge it yet though.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:22 PM   #8
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Well, there's two types of blowers; centrifugal or roots/twin screw. In my opinion, never go centrifugal. Both the roots and turbo beat it out, BIG TIME.

With the roots style, it looks like a BEAST underneither the hood and delivers INSTANT power and throttle response for tire shredding fun! But the down fall in my opinion is just that, the tire shredding fun! Our cars can already spin the wheels and burn rubber big time so we have no need to spin the tires every time we shift. It makes it very hard to get traction, you will need many supporting mods such as control arms, wider, stickier tires, driveshaft, different differential, etc. But it will go like a MOTHER! it has a nasty sounding squeal when driving that is gawked at by many but for me, turbos the way to go.

People disregard turbos because of "turbo lag". The time it takes to spool up and spin the turbine to give the car the power. But for us (big v8 mustang owners), there is virtually NO TURBO LAG! Litterally. The smaller the turbo, the less lag, the bigger the turbo, the more power potential. Twins are the happy perfection. Put in a 60 mm turbo and it will spool by 1200 rpm (my car idles at 1000). A 70 mm will spool by 1900-2000 rpm. I ordered a custom made kit for $5, 000. It has all hot side tubing, cold side, oil tap kit, everything needed and 60 and 67 mm turbos for instant power and taller power potential. With this set up, I could go up to 1000+ horsepower if I cranked the boost all the way up. I'm looking at 16 psi for about 700 horsepower hopefully!

Now, pricing! For a centrifugal blower (procharger/vortech), you can expect to pay around $3, 500-$5, 000. For a roots style blower (kenne bell/whipple) you can look at $5, 000 - $6, 500. And finally, turbo. Turbo can run you $1, 990 - $6, 500! A twin turbo set up from sts is $6, 000 I believe but a kit from On3 performance is $1, 990 shipped to your door for a base model. The on3 is debated to be reliable or not but if you change the head unit to a garret or turbonetics ($300-800) it is just like a hellion kit ($5, 500).

Evert form of FI has a positive and a negative side, it just takes a bit of research and personal preference choices! Hope this has helped!

---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

What I was getting at is, if you're gonna add FI, don't do engine dress up! Chances are, you will habe to take all the dress up stuff off (plenum covers, fuel rail covers, head covers, etc)
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:32 PM   #9
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Well, there's two types of blowers; centrifugal or roots/twin screw. In my opinion, never go centrifugal. Both the roots and turbo beat it out, BIG TIME.

With the roots style, it looks like a BEAST underneither the hood and delivers INSTANT power and throttle response for tire shredding fun! But the down fall in my opinion is just that, the tire shredding fun! Our cars can already spin the wheels and burn rubber big time so we have no need to spin the tires every time we shift. It makes it very hard to get traction, you will need many supporting mods such as control arms, wider, stickier tires, driveshaft, different differential, etc. But it will go like a MOTHER! it has a nasty sounding squeal when driving that is gawked at by many but for me, turbos the way to go.

People disregard turbos because of "turbo lag". The time it takes to spool up and spin the turbine to give the car the power. But for us (big v8 mustang owners), there is virtually NO TURBO LAG! Litterally. The smaller the turbo, the less lag, the bigger the turbo, the more power potential. Twins are the happy perfection. Put in a 60 mm turbo and it will spool by 1200 rpm (my car idles at 1000). A 70 mm will spool by 1900-2000 rpm. I ordered a custom made kit for $5, 000. It has all hot side tubing, cold side, oil tap kit, everything needed and 60 and 67 mm turbos for instant power and taller power potential. With this set up, I could go up to 1000+ horsepower if I cranked the boost all the way up. I'm looking at 16 psi for about 700 horsepower hopefully!

Now, pricing! For a centrifugal blower (procharger/vortech), you can expect to pay around $3, 500-$5, 000. For a roots style blower (kenne bell/whipple) you can look at $5, 000 - $6, 500. And finally, turbo. Turbo can run you $1, 990 - $6, 500! A twin turbo set up from sts is $6, 000 I believe but a kit from On3 performance is $1, 990 shipped to your door for a base model. The on3 is debated to be reliable or not but if you change the head unit to a garret or turbonetics ($300-800) it is just like a hellion kit ($5, 500).

Evert form of FI has a positive and a negative side, it just takes a bit of research and personal preference choices! Hope this has helped!

---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

What I was getting at is, if you're gonna add FI, don't do engine dress up! Chances are, you will habe to take all the dress up stuff off (plenum covers, fuel rail covers, head covers, etc)
No that actually really helped out, my 08 mustang is my project car, I want the entire car to be custom fit for me, so I turned the entire thing to a life long project. So far I had WestCoast customs, take my backseats out and they installed a custom box, changed all my speakers, added more speakers, changed all the sound cables in the car into their own brand, and installed an 8in navi.
I have a BBK intake, I feel like I might've made a mistake with going to BBK, I feel no difference with it on really. And I'm planning on adding the exhaust system.
I never figured our stock GT engines could be modified to over a 1000 HP, I always figured 700 would be close to max, I thought I was gonna need to replace my engine with a higher end to hit a 1000 HP.
How many turbos can our engines take? And how many would you recommend?
Would I need to change my transmission if I was to get my car even close to 1000 HP?
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #10
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To get to 700 hp, you NEED to rebuild your bottom end. Our engines only hold to 450 ish hp before it will pop. To have a safety net at 700, change your connecting rods(forged h beams are the BEST), solid forged steel (4340) crankshaft, and forged pistons with a medium conpression is preferable. To be able to withstand 1000+ hp you SHOULD change your heads and I'd recommend your block to a forged block. ALWAYS use APR bolts (best money can buy) and never cheap out on gaskets (ie. Head gasket). When you get a forged rotating assembly I HIGHLY recommend Brenspeeds forged stage 2 package. It is a stroker kit that will help you net an easy 50ish hp and it will run SMOOTH. never cheap out on the best of internals.

As far as trans goes, you can get better clutch plates, flywheels, etc to hold more power. Go with like an exedy stage 4 clurch I believe it is?

The best advice I can give you is: know what you want your end goals to be, and build towards them! Never buy a lesser product and think, " i will just upgrade it later when the time comes". It will waste your money and time! Just save the momey you would other wise spend until the time comes to get the best of the best. If you plan to build to 1000 hp, don't buy a driveshaft rated for 500 hp, save up and get the race made 1000 hp rated version. Might be more than the 500 one and you may not have 1000 hp at the moment but when you do, you will just buy the brtter one after ripping apart the 500 hp one because of too much power. If you are doing small mods that won't be changed by making more power (shifter, axle back, etc) then go ahead and get what you want! If you're going turbo, DON'T GET HEADERS! YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE THEM! And for almost a $1, 000 for kooks, I wouldnt waste the money.

If I were you, go with your exhaust first, headers (if going supercharged), mid pipe and axle back, then buy forged internals, then buy the blower or turbo, then build the trans/drivetrain, then buy the heads, then buy the block. All in all, for a reliable (as reliable as 1000 hp really can be lol) 1000 hp street beast, look to spend about $15, 000-25, 000.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #11
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To handle 1khp you need a lot of mods. Forged iternals for one, transmission, driveshaft, clutch and probably some more things I fail to think of ATM.

Oh! And everything suspension and wheels.... Maybe even a 10inch rear end instead of the 8.8inch.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:55 PM   #12
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To get to 700 hp, you NEED to rebuild your bottom end. Our engines only hold to 450 ish hp before it will pop. To have a safety net at 700, change your connecting rods(forged h beams are the BEST), solid forged steel (4340) crankshaft, and forged pistons with a medium conpression is preferable. To be able to withstand 1000+ hp you SHOULD change your heads and I'd recommend your block to a forged block. ALWAYS use APR bolts (best money can buy) and never cheap out on gaskets (ie. Head gasket). When you get a forged rotating assembly I HIGHLY recommend Brenspeeds forged stage 2 package. It is a stroker kit that will help you net an easy 50ish hp and it will run SMOOTH. never cheap out on the best of internals.

As far as trans goes, you can get better clutch plates, flywheels, etc to hold more power. Go with like an exedy stage 4 clurch I believe it is?

The best advice I can give you is: know what you want your end goals to be, and build towards them! Never buy a lesser product and think, " i will just upgrade it later when the time comes". It will waste your money and time! Just save the momey you would other wise spend until the time comes to get the best of the best. If you plan to build to 1000 hp, don't buy a driveshaft rated for 500 hp, save up and get the race made 1000 hp rated version. Might be more than the 500 one and you may not have 1000 hp at the moment but when you do, you will just buy the brtter one after ripping apart the 500 hp one because of too much power. If you are doing small mods that won't be changed by making more power (shifter, axle back, etc) then go ahead and get what you want! If you're going turbo, DON'T GET HEADERS! YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE THEM! And for almost a $1, 000 for kooks, I wouldnt waste the money.

If I were you, go with your exhaust first, headers (if going supercharged), mid pipe and axle back, then buy forged internals, then buy the blower or turbo, then build the trans/drivetrain, then buy the heads, then buy the block. All in all, for a reliable (as reliable as 1000 hp really can be lol) 1000 hp street beast, look to spend about $15, 000-25, 000.
I'm willing to put in money, and I only try to find the best. Do you mind if I come to you for advice on the parts?
You seem a lot more educated on Mods for the mustang.
What would you recommend for a cold air intake?
Have you ever seen the drag racers where when a car takes off the front tires lift off the ground?
How many HP do you need to get that?
and I will be going for a turbo instead of supercharger, thanks for all the help.

---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------

Has anyone heard of titanium pistons or maybe even other internal engine parts that are considered illegal in the United States because they're titanium?
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #13
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Why would titanium be illegal in the US?
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:28 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Guirguisb View Post

I'm willing to put in money, and I only try to find the best. Do you mind if I come to you for advice on the parts?
You seem a lot more educated on Mods for the mustang.
What would you recommend for a cold air intake?
Have you ever seen the drag racers where when a car takes off the front tires lift off the ground?
How many HP do you need to get that?
and I will be going for a turbo instead of supercharger, thanks for all the help.

---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------

Has anyone heard of titanium pistons or maybe even other internal engine parts that are considered illegal in the United States because they're titanium?
Feel free to contact me at ANY time. I'm always willing to help paul-robinson9@hotmail. Com
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:40 PM   #15
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No that actually really helped out, my 08 mustang is my project car, I want the entire car to be custom fit for me, so I turned the entire thing to a life long project. So far I had WestCoast customs, take my backseats out and they installed a custom box, changed all my speakers, added more speakers, changed all the sound cables in the car into their own brand, and installed an 8in navi.
I have a BBK intake, I feel like I might've made a mistake with going to BBK, I feel no difference with it on really. And I'm planning on adding the exhaust system.
I never figured our stock GT engines could be modified to over a 1000 HP, I always figured 700 would be close to max, I thought I was gonna need to replace my engine with a higher end to hit a 1000 HP.
How many turbos can our engines take? And how many would you recommend?
Would I need to change my transmission if I was to get my car even close to 1000 HP?
Check out some of the MMR blocks if you're wanting to approach 1k hp. And yes you'd need a stronger transmission at those power levels, also one hell of a clutch
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:43 PM   #16
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Feel free to contact me at ANY time. I'm always willing to help paul-robinson9@hotmail. Com
Thanks Paul. And I'm Mike by the way
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:50 PM   #17
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Check out some of the MMR blocks if you're wanting to approach 1k hp. And yes you'd need a stronger transmission at those power levels, also one hell of a clutch
I googled MWR blocks and it took me to monkeywrenchracing.com all I was able to find was parts for Toyota, I tried changing the manufacturer and it only had Toyota.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #18
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MMR bro
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:25 PM   #19
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I'm really not too good with exhaust part of the car, especially since there's so many different types it gets kind of confusing. I'm looking for an exhaust system that will give me a large amount of power and make my 08 GT sound like a classic beast. I'm also thinking of 4 exhaust pipes like the new SVT. I don't mind if it's an illegal piece either as long as you can tell me where I might be able to find it, And if you have pics please post them.
I run Pypes long tubes, Pypes off-road H pipe, and Pype Bomb Axle Back and I love the sound. It's loud, but gives a nice deep growl/rumble. I get compliments all the time for older folks who say my exhaust reminds them of the old school mustangs. If you don't go with this set-up, I strongly suggest go with a h-pipe instead if an x-pipe. You will sacrifice a few HP, but you won't get the raspiness commonly found with x pipes.

Also, keep in mind if you delete your cats or go with long tubes, be prepared to get a tune.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #20
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MMR bro
Is that site legit?
They have a monster mod, the short lock that says it produces up to 2500 HP.
That's insane
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:25 PM   #21
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I googled MWR blocks and it took me to monkeywrenchracing.com all I was able to find was parts for Toyota, I tried changing the manufacturer and it only had Toyota.
Lol MMR man.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:30 PM   #22
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Is that site legit?
They have a monster mod, the short lock that says it produces up to 2500 HP.
That's insane
Oh yeah, they got it, for sure. If you got the money to spend it exists.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:02 PM   #23
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Oh yeah, they got it, for sure. If you got the money to spend it exists.
Damn what's the 0 to 60 on something like that?
That's ridiculous power, I'm definitely adding this to my project.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:26 AM   #24
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Damn what's the 0 to 60 on something like that?
That's ridiculous power, I'm definitely adding this to my project.
Lol well the 0-60 wouldn't be very impressive unless you're able to put it to the ground. You would have to go all out on nearly every inch of your car with that.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:51 AM   #25
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Lol well the 0-60 wouldn't be very impressive unless you're able to put it to the ground. You would have to go all out on nearly every inch of your car with that.
You mean like suspension, and tires?
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:31 AM   #26
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You mean like suspension, and tires?
Plus rear end, transmission, and clutch if you're manual at those levels..
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:44 AM   #27
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Plus rear end, transmission, and clutch if you're manual at those levels..
Hell, you'd be hurtin if your manual at that power rating. Throw your own shoulder outta joint shifting so fast haha!
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:06 AM   #28
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Plus rear end, transmission, and clutch if you're manual at those levels..
Would it be possible going from a 5 gears to 6 without changing the transmission?

---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 AM ----------

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Hell, you'd be hurtin if your manual at that power rating. Throw your own shoulder outta joint shifting so fast haha!
Haha, all that power would be worth the pain.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:11 PM   #29
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Would it be possible going from a 5 gears to 6 without changing the transmission?

---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 AM ----------



Haha, all that power would be worth the pain.
Nope. Gotta get a six speed transmission.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:12 PM   #30
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Nope. Gotta get a six speed transmission.
+1
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:45 PM   #31
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Now that would be insane
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:47 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by 08mustanggt View Post
I've got everything you need bud. Go with some kooks long tube headers for biggest power gains, pypes offroad h pipe for more freed up exhaust, louder exhaust and a deeper rumble rather than an x pipe which is raspy and finally, a set of borla S type axle backs. The borlas serve an increase in power, they are approx 15 lbs lighter than stock and give a nasty deep old school muscle car rumble.

All in all, the exhaust will net you very good power gains, good flowing exhaust, noticeable power on the throttle and will be loud and deep! ( about a 9-91/2 out of 10 on sound decible).

Then, for your quad tips, borla offers 2 sets of quad tips for their axle backs, square tips or oval tips. All are chrome and semi slant cut.

Now, price. Expect the kooks to run you $900+ , pypes offroad will run you about $200 and borla stingers will run you $500 on summit racing before taxes. So total, you are looking at about $1, 600. But it will sound amazing and open up the same. I'm running everything now but the kooks headers because they will be replaced with turbo headers in a couple months. Hope this helps ya.
Axle back power gains are almost non existent.

X pipes provide more power (by a little, nothing major) but since he wants to get 'major gains' I'd think he may at least want to look at x pipes for absolute maximum gains.

Kooks are the best quality headers for sure but Pypes LT are knock offs of Kooks and provide the same gains and stainless steel quality (but fitment varies from set to set).

OP, if you can swing it, Kooks hands down. If you want to shave some money here or there, Pypes or JBA are good, cheap options.

There won't be MAJOR gains buta Full exhaust system is good for 20-22WHP on an n/a car and have shown gains up to 35-38WHP on s/c vehicles.

---------- Post added at 08:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guirguisb View Post
I'm willing to put in money, and I only try to find the best. Do you mind if I come to you for advice on the parts?
You seem a lot more educated on Mods for the mustang.
What would you recommend for a cold air intake?
Have you ever seen the drag racers where when a car takes off the front tires lift off the ground?
How many HP do you need to get that?
and I will be going for a turbo instead of supercharger, thanks for all the help.

---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------

Has anyone heard of titanium pistons or maybe even other internal engine parts that are considered illegal in the United States because they're titanium?
His info, while detailed and accurate is common. I'm sure he'd help you out

Oh, and you don't need barely any power to lift off the ground, just good suspension and tires.

On a different forum, a cay with just 300 WHP is lifting off for 11.90s with M&H tires. Manual.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:53 AM   #33
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Americanmuscle.com is a great place to buy cosmetic parts, sometimes painted.

Intakes are generally the same **** through and through until you get to 98 MM and 110 MM intakes where the different size becomes enough to differentiate it from the others.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:36 PM   #34
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Borii, the stiffer suspension is what causes the wheel hop? I'm just wondering because I always had it in my head it was caused by too much power/not enough suspension.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:16 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Wolverine0587 View Post
Borii, the stiffer suspension is what causes the wheel hop? I'm just wondering because I always had it in my head it was caused by too much power/not enough suspension.
It varies. If the suspension is pieced together for weight transfer, then the soft suspension will get better traction most likely. But stiffer helps wheel hop but reduces weight transfer allowing the tires to break loose unexpectedly often times.

Wheel hop is just that. The car hopping up and down slightly but quickly enough to lift weight off the wheels causing spin, then it plops back down only to bounce again. In my experience anyway.

But Wheel Hop and lifting are two different things, which are we talking about here?
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